Not the ECM, possibly fuel pump??

[kxracer987]

Well, lol, this is my 4th post in a row, lol. The 2.4l has a crank position sensor right? Now that I think about it, when I was looking at 4x4s, I was thinking about a cherokee. A common problem was the crank position sensors would go out, when they went out, the vehicle would crank over but wouldn't start. Could that be my problem??

[niftyd50881]

if your crank or cam position sensor is bad it will throw a code for it.
yes, it will crank but wont start but not from no fuel from no spark.
what i generally do to find out if the crank or cam pos. sensor is bad is disconnect one and try turning the motor over, sometimes it will start and run real bad and sometimes it does nothing. i forget why it sometimes works.
however, when my eclipse died i originally thought the cam pos. sensor went bad on it (since it cranked but had no spark) and after troubleshooting it in the end it turned out to be a bad ecu(leaky capacitor issue). i was too broke to fix the old one at the time.
i never rely on a check engine light since half my cars ive had had the bulbs removed by previous owners, ya know.

[kxracer987]

if your crank or cam position sensor is bad it will throw a code for it.
yes, it will crank but wont start but not from no fuel from no spark.
what i generally do to find out if the crank or cam pos. sensor is bad is disconnect one and try turning the motor over, sometimes it will start and run real bad and sometimes it does nothing. i forget why it sometimes works.
however, when my eclipse died i originally thought the cam pos. sensor went bad on it (since it cranked but had no spark) and after troubleshooting it in the end it turned out to be a bad ecu(leaky capacitor issue). i was too broke to fix the old one at the time.
i never rely on a check engine light since half my cars ive had had the bulbs removed by previous owners, ya know.

We did get it going once using starter fluid, and it kept running, but it ran REALLY bad. I'm talking backfiring, shaking violently, and it would basically die, then rev up a little, and repeat.

[niftyd50881]

okay, heres how to pull your trouble codes for fuel injected models only

locate the self diagnosis connector(which seems to be under the fuse box but the book says under the radio somewhere, whatever) i never had one so i dont know where at specifically. im sure youll find it.
using the "analog" voltmeter connect the red(+) one to the terminal #5(mpi diag.) and the (-) to terminal #6(ground)
here is the numbers of the pinout on the connector
1 2 -- 3 4 5
6789101112

turn the ignition switch to the ON position(not to start) and count the sweeps of the voltmeter.
the first ones will be long or slow sweeps followed by short ones, think like the long ones would be a first digit and the short ones would be the second digit.
this should proceed untill the stored codes are read out. afterwards i believe the truck then self destructs or something.
i would be willing to bet this could be done with a test light of some sort instead of an analog voltmeter.

here are the codes
/-- means a long sweep while just / means a short sweep

1, ECU /----- continuous long, replace ECU
2, O2 sensor /--/ code 11
3, MAF sensor /--// code 12
4, IAT sensor /--/// code 13
5, TPS sensor /--//// code 14
6, Motor position sensor /--///// code 15
7, ECT sensor /--/--/ code 21
8, Crank Pos. Sensor /--/--// code 22
9, no.1 TDC pos. sensor /--/--/// code 23
10, VSS /--/--//// code 24
11, Barometric pressure sensor /--/--///// code 25
12, ignition timing adjustment signal /--/--/--////// code 36
13, Injector /--/--/--/--/ code 41
14, fuel pump /--/--/--/--// code 42
15, EGR /--/--/--/--/// code 43
16, normal conditions __///////__

[kxracer987]

okay, heres how to pull your trouble codes for fuel injected models only

locate the self diagnosis connector(which seems to be under the fuse box but the book says under the radio somewhere, whatever) i never had one so i dont know where at specifically. im sure youll find it.
using the "analog" voltmeter connect the red(+) one to the terminal #5(mpi diag.) and the (-) to terminal #6(ground)
here is the numbers of the pinout on the connector
1 2 -- 3 4 5
6789101112

turn the ignition switch to the ON position(not to start) and count the sweeps of the voltmeter.
the first ones will be long or slow sweeps followed by short ones, think like the long ones would be a first digit and the short ones would be the second digit.
this should proceed untill the stored codes are read out. afterwards i believe the truck then self destructs or something.
i would be willing to bet this could be done with a test light of some sort instead of an analog voltmeter.
im too tired to type out the codes right now so tomorrow ill get back at this and finish the rest.

Awesome, thanks for the info. I know my dad has a digital volt meter, but I don't know if we have an analog one. I would think the shop would have done this, but IDK. When we dropped it off, the shop manager said "they would look at it, but these things are kind of confusing" <<should have known at that moment not to bring it to them, lol. Anywho, I will probably have to install my old ecu again to get the codes right, or are they stored somewhere else?

[Spicoli]

Once juice is disconnected the ECU clears its self, Im actually borrowing a really nice Snap on scan tool right now. I had to get ti b/c its damned hard to find an analog one.

And unless its OBDII most shops dont have the brains to figure it out.

[niftyd50881]

And unless its OBDII most shops dont have the brains to figure it out.

thats soo true it makes me cry. what are they teaching people in shop class

like he stated once the battery is disconnected the codes are cleared but it should still tell you them when you go to restart it and then try to pull them.
im pretty sure the dealer should have the right scanner(or diagnostic machine thingy) to pull codes from your truck, doesnt mean they know what to do though.
later on ill post the codes im not home right now

[niftyd50881]

alright, former post edited with the trouble codes added.
go to it then...

[kxracer987]

alright, former post edited with the trouble codes added.
go to it then...

Thanks alot, it sounds like my dad may have an analog one around here somewhere. Hopefully I can get it checked today, but it may have to wait until tomorrow. I'll keep everyone up to date.

[kxracer987]

Alright, WTFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFFF. I tested it, and it came up normal. Atleast I think it did, a bunch of short sweeps, held it till I hit like 17, all the same, and all really short. There is no way a fuel filter would clog when it sat for no more than 5 minutes. What else could it be??