No power and idoling at 2k rpms

[tyler111991]

I used a shop vac and a longer hose to test it. At first it opened but after about 10 seconds it slowly closed. 75 sounds kinda pricey for such a seemingly simple part haha. I guess I will give them a call tomorrow. Thanks

[Ramit]

Shop vac???!! Really? A little suction from your mouth is all it takes. Pull enough to open the butterfly, and use your tongue on the end of the hose to hold the pressure. Yes $75 is a bit steep, put even if you are able to find one at a junk yard,and it is still in working order, trust me , it wont last very long. The air bladders in them are dry rotted. So either buy a new one, or buy a carb that has mechanically operated secondaries.

[tyler111991]

haha yep a shop vac, overkill I know but it worked Im leaning more toward upgrading the carb, the truck has 176K miles on it and should last many more, so I think it would be a good investment. Ive been doing some research on Weber carbs, Im trying to figure out if they are a direct replacement, and if all of my vacuum lines will hook up and stuff.
But I am liking the fuel milage of a 1 barrel carb, just not the lack of power

[pennyman1]

The only weber close to a bolt on is the 34 series emissions carbs - not a direct bolton, but not to hard to change, and definately will run better and still give good economy.

[tyler111991]

good deal. does Weber have a site they sell from or do they use ratailers? I found a Weber website... but it was bbq grills

[pennyman1]

lookup redline weber or joetlc on ebay for starters

[tyler111991]

ok thanks a lot

[CheapBastard]

ok thanks a lot

Kind of lost here...? You were bitching about a $75 dollar part earlier, and now you are wanting to blow $300 on a new carb?

[pennyman1]

Seems odd, but the truth is that the new carb will work better far longer than a old mikuni carb that probably needs rebuilt, or worse, worked on by some who shouldn't have touched it in the first place. Not to mention the chance to get away from all the emissions BS that those mikuni carbs were saddled with

[abeemanator]

On my truck I have no ECM, and I was getting pretty bad mpgs, so what I did is I took the A/C vacuum control switch (The A/C is hooked directly to a toggle now) and I ran a vac line from the engine, to the A/c vac control, and hooked a vac line to the secondary. Then wired the vac control to a toggle switch. When I flip the toggle, the secondary works almost like a mechanical progressive secondary. Now I have full control over when I want the secondary to be on,it seems to work well, and Im pretty sure you could use it as a cheap temporary fix.