engine sound through speakers?

[dmr8x2]

recheck your grounds
there is a flex braid on the passenger side fire wall to the exhaust manifold
your negative cable runs from the battery past to a bolt just under the battery tray and then to the engine block
your head unite must be grounded to the body , there is a screw behind the radio for this (there is NO ground wire in the harness ,there is a ground wire for the factory radio light bulb but i think it goes thru the dimmer , if used it may blow light fuses)
you can ground your amp if behind the seat to the seat mounting bolt . also make shure your amp wire is large enough at the least a 10 gauge and you have a fuse at each end of it
good luck

[pennyman1]

You should never put fuses in the ground wire circuit; if the fuse becomes loose or blows it leaves the device in a hot chassis condition +/or damage the device with surges. The main ground also goes from the engine block to the frame. The best grounding system is where every ground goes to a central point at the battery; this insures that all grounds are at the same potential(0 volts) and that there are no ground loops or "floating" grounds that causes noise or erratic operation.

[dmr8x2]

i was thinking of fuses in the power site of the amp
you are right no fuses in the grounds

[camoit]

A whine noise from an alt. that will sound like it speeds up with the engine speed is caused by the one diode in the alternator going bad. The Diode alows the electrons to flow one way through a circute. An alternator produces an AC current. A generator produces DC. The Diode brige converts AC to DC. The wine you here is is an AC current leeking pass the bridge in the alternator. The Battery of the car is baciscaly a large capicator. It will help to reduce noise along with storing power. AC into a battery will kill it over time. That is why some times it will be louder or quiet depending on the amount of AMPS the alternator is producing. As the battory charges the voltage goes up and the Amp draw goes down. As the Amp draw goes down the amount of noise reduction from the battery goes down. New alternators have a larger bridge in them to reduce the noise and handle more Amps. They also have a better "float" to keep the voltage in a more useable range. Computers in new cars do not like AC at all. So they have an other bridge built into them. The noise from the gap in the cap and roter is better herd on the AM band of the radio. It is what is called a "spark gap transmitter" That is the same type or transmitter used on the Titanic. It is a Popping noise. You can build a Diode bridge fairly easly. It will make a good filter. Thats the technecal end of the problem. Go to an alternator rebuilder bring him outside and point at the alternator. Tell him you want a new regulator for it. You can change it your self for around 10 bucks. Or if you want to be real cheep go take one from you strip it yard.

[daytonatrbo]

+1 for checking your ignition wires.
If you aren't using good resistor wires you are going to get a LOT of RF noise. The fact that you describe the noise as "exhaust leak" would make me more suspicious of your ignition system than your charging system.