Class 6 Off Road Race Truck D-50 build out. Chevy. 4.3L V6

[daytonatrbo]

So i read through your whole build last night. I'm damn impressed, I knew there was money in concrete, but I had no idea how much .

You should put a link to this thread in your sig!

Keep up the excellent work!

[camoit]

Good Idea. But
There is no money in concrete. Not any more. I just have been saving up for years to do this. Ask the wife she will tell you. I think it's mainly because I decide to drag my ass to the Vet when I was 20. Now me and the dogs have somthing in common :) The dogs cost a whole lot less then kids.

[camoit]

She is standing on her feet..... The front end is now only 7 inch wider over all. 3.5 inch per side. Stock is 62 inch wide on the front. Now its 79 inch front. Thats 1.5 foot wider then stock. The rear is now 72 inch wide. A Trophy truck that is Full Race is limited to 96 Inch wide 8 foot.

[RickDees]

Hands down, this is the best build I have watched come to life. Your quality is top knotch!
You're the reason I keep coming back to see your progress. I don't even want to know how much you have in it, what matter is it's just the way you want it!
Surely, you WILL be in a magazine......It's is that good!

[camoit]

Hands down, this is the best build I have watched come to life. Your quality is top knotch!
You're the reason I keep coming back to see your progress. I don't even want to know how much you have in it, what matter is it's just the way you want it!
Surely, you WILL be in a magazine......It's is that good! :clap:

Thanks Rick.
It's far from a real Magazine wright up. I'm nearly ready to do an update with the new problems that had to be over come. At least it will be the only one like it. Should be right around 15K when finished.

[RickDees]

It's ok being modest about your build, You see it one way others see it differently.
Customizing a rig is like opening and can of worms, they all have problems that need ironed out.
No doubt about it, it is one of a kind. That's what makes it so unique so don't short change yourself.
This is the hottest unique 4wd d50 build I have seen and your not done, Yet!
I've seen 2/3rds of your cost in a 2wd, (in just the engine)....... If you won't toot your own horn, I'll do it for you!

[camoit]

It's ok being modest about your build, You see it one way others see it differently.
Customizing a rig is like opening and can of worms, they all have problems that need ironed out.
No doubt about it, it is one of a kind. That's what makes it so unique so don't short change yourself.
This is the hottest unique 4wd d50 build I have seen and your not done, Yet!
I've seen 2/3rds of your cost in a 2wd, (in just the engine)....... If you won't toot your own horn, I'll do it for you!

Thanks dude. But she is only 2WD

[RickDees]

Another moment of cerebral rectal inversion. It's as plain as day
<---thats exactly how I had to wiggle to get my head out of my ass

[camoit]

Now on to the rims, brakes and stud problems. I would like to thank every one that voted on the rims. Well you said to get the ones with the larger holes and that is what I did. The first problem was the studs. With the new aluminume rims the stock studs were too short. So off I went to the parts store with a vernerer calaper and 1 stud from the front and rear hubs. After several hours I found some that would work. The front ones were a direct replacement with no modifaction. But the rear was another story. The rear is now a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo Dana 44. The new studs were the corect leingth I needed but the sholders were to long. So I had to grind them down to allow thr brake roter to lay flat on the hub. The best way to grind them down evenly was to put them in them in the drill press chuck and spin them while I hit them with the grinder.




Now to make sure that the roter was seating all the way down flat on the hub I used my paint pen. I made some marks on the hubs and then placed the roter on the hub. If it seats the paint will transfer to the roter. I had 1 or 2 studs that did not allow the roter to lay flat. So I then used a counter sink bit to take off just a little bit from the inside of the roter around the stud holes. Keep in mind that roters are made of some soft meteral so its easy to remove to much real quick. Installing new studs is easy with a lug nut and some washers. Just use the impact gun and they go on real fast with no banging of the hammer or chance of shocking bearings.


Parking Brakes.
This was a chalange in it’s self to figure out how to conect a 1980 D-50 parking system to a 1997 Isuzu Rodio. I was able to use the stock parts for some of the transfer. Parking lever, cable and mechanical leverage with sadle that is located under your truck. I did need to flip the mounting bracket upside down to acomadate the new trany mount and location. Next was the process of atching the Isuzu cables to the intermiedate cable. I had to have a cable made up that yould give me lots of adjustment in three places. Then I had to figure out how to conect the adjusting ends to the Isuzu cable ends. Isuzu uses some hamer head style cable ends. So how do you go from this to a threaded rod end? Well the best thing I could come up with is what you see here.



This is not the finished product. You want to pull a cable in a streight line when ever you can The finished part has a 90 degree off set to aline the cables. I used a peace of solid rod that I threaded to recive the new cable ends. The Hammer Head ends worked them self out with the use of two frame gussets. This made for a nice clean clamp that could not let go of the ends when torqued down. More pictures on the brake system to come. Please look back later for an up date.

[camoit]

Exhaust System is built..


The truck went to the Header and exhaust shop over the last two weeks. I took it to a guy called “Dom”
His web site is http://www.dgheaders.com
Dom and his dad have a shop in Auburn Ca. called M & M Mufflers.







Him and his father have been building header for drag boats and Salt Flat cars for years. Here is there car they drive in Utah. The last time they went they broke the rear end at 165 MPH and spun the car around but it did stay up right,,,, this time.






The headers had to be split into single tubes to allow for removal from the truck. Each header tube 34.25 inchs long, then run down to the 3 into 1 collectors. Here is the left header under construction.






It was a two week fight to get the system to fit the truck. He was hopping to run a single pipe system but that had to be changed to a duel system. Due to the lack of space and all the moving parts of the 3 link rear end. There was just no way to get it over the rear end, and keep it out of the way. Here is the finished system. Next it goes out for the ceramic coating guy. This should make for some interesting pictures. I have no idea how what the process is.