wrngwae wrote:i have thought about a shell and tube or plate heat exchanger. the reason i run so cold is the alternator.....its stock and barly can power the lights and accy of the raider. the auto trans rear wiper a/c rear defrost ect ect takes alot away from the alternator. than those heaters kick in i can drop below 12 vollts easy... so the thought has crossed my mind.
See if Warme can get you a 4D56 90A, the difference is night and day. If you have the single pulley setup it's a bit tricky. I went and got the single pulley only to find out it makes the belt too short. But modifying the slide made it work fine.
My injection line heater pulls about 12A.
Lamb50 wrote: I rebuilt my 4d55 last year and have run it for 18 months on nothing but 100% homebrew biodiesel. No problems at all. No disrespect intended, Muzak, but I gotta disagree about biodiesel being a PITA- I collect and process about 1000 gallons of wvo and process it with no major problems. Titration determines the level of free fatty acids, not water content- I actually water wash my biodiesel, then air dry it, and end up with pretty close to astm 6751 quality fuel.
Personally, I would probably not try 100% wvo- I know it can be done, but my buddy who rebuilds injectors says that he sees a lot of trashed injectors from folks who don't get the water out of their wvo. And of course, cold weather wirdness. I can run b100 down to the low 30's without much problem.
You'll notice I said for the casual homebrewer, what's your setup? If you're serious about knowing how to do it it can be done without problem no question. And yes in CA there's a lot of extra hassle. FFA levels that are too high are indicative of suspended water in oil that will not be countered by lye, my explanation was oversimplified, but the reason to eliminate the FFA is to also get rid of the water as I understand it. The advantage in general with BD is you can use significantly worse oil than you would for SVO.
But running BD cold with no heat (below 40*) will do damage in the long run. Granted if you properly eliminate water it will take longer, but the thicker viscosity fuel will eventually clog your system just as badly. As I mentioned it wouldn't take much to eliminate the risk. But I wouldn't rely solely on a fuel filter heater that's only designed to keep the fuel above 40*. By the time fuel gets into those injection lines bare it gets mighty cold.