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anybody out there using wvo or bio in a 4d55/56?

yep: wvo. It's a full time responsibility from collection to filtration to maintenance to monitoring viscosity, temp... Thorough research is critical.

to be totally honest i run black diesel,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,read up..........easier than wvo......to find.

wrngwae wrote:to be totally honest i run black diesel,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,read up..........easier than wvo......to find.

In the field it's called WMO (waste motor oil). So do you have a centrifuge or what's your filtration method? I do have a centrifuge but run synthetic oil- that stuff isn't good for your engine. With a centrifuge cleaning (.5 microns) and a little heat you can run straight recycled petroleum oil. I wouldn't trust gas station collections of oil, a straight petroleum, no synthetic source, is best. On the plus side there' more BTU's in WMO than diesel.

yea i run it thru a water seperator and a 5 micron filter at 30psi and mix it 50/50 depending on thee type oil i get, you know like gear oil vs 5 20. i have had no real issues other that some extra build up on the exhaust valves but over the winter it cleans out due to too cold out here to start on it. so it is only a summer thing. right when prices peak out. i do also use wvo when i can get it for FREE..... everyone wants cash for it now but motor oil is freeeeeeeee....

wrngwae wrote:yea i run it thru a water seperator and a 5 micron filter at 30psi and mix it 50/50 depending on thee type oil i get, you know like gear oil vs 5 20. i have had no real issues other that some extra build up on the exhaust valves but over the winter it cleans out due to too cold out here to start on it. so it is only a summer thing. right when prices peak out. i do also use wvo when i can get it for FREE..... everyone wants cash for it now but motor oil is freeeeeeeee....

If you're just blending straight up with diesel you can do a lot more by adding heat to your injection lines. I am making these heaters that are super simple, just a conductor wire in a shroud that you wrap around your lines, then cover that with silicon tape. This makes a huge difference in general because the fuel gets hot before it hits the injectors as opposed to remaining cold. You can get fuel up to about 150 at the top of the injectors this way, that's suitable for running straight oil, 200 degrees is more ideal but even with a fully converted setup at full flow that's difficult. Especially in cold weather this will make a big difference, MBZ does this stock on their EU rides.

i have set up a honeywell thermostat off of my stock heater/fuel filter. i think im running around 120ish off both heating elements. and yea i cannot do this in the winter months its too cold and wont start.........been there done that no fun....... but after about steady 60's its on.....and if it gets too cool at night i can just plug her in.

My partner was talking about running bio in our cement trucks. I told him great, you go out find and process the oils. Just keep in mind that each truck holds 150 gallon of fuel. They need to be refilled every other day or so, just because they get around 3 MPG. So if you want to run bio you do the extra work for it. When we are slow we only burn around 800 gallon a month. That was the end of his Bio quest. Now if I had only to deal with a small truck it might be worth it. So is it worth the effort you guys are going through?

Biodiesel is a 1st class PITA. And for the casual homebrewer you'll only fuck it up. Most people think you can just run BD cold and then the fuel temp drops to 40* and there's gummed up crap all over the injection system. Another common problem, BD relies on titration to determine water content, which you counteract with lye and it comes out as soap. But it's very difficult to get that just right and many homebrewers don't have adequate source oil to begin with so they can't really get the water out. It's double difficult because just getting veggie oil that's somewhat water free is hard, once you learn the tricks gravity does a lot of the work for you. The main thing I like about running veggie is that I can test the fuel for water and be sure there's none in it. But I'm on the seafood capital coast of the world so there's quite a bit of work in dewatering it. Like I said I do have a centrifuge which I can use but gravity is the preferred method. And yes, free fuel is well worth it. Also running all diesel fuels hot is a good thing, better atomization and less carbon build up.

wrngwae wrote:i have set up a honeywell thermostat off of my stock heater/fuel filter. i think im running around 120ish off both heating elements. and yea i cannot do this in the winter months its too cold and wont start.........been there done that no fun....... but after about steady 60's its on.....and if it gets too cool at night i can just plug her in.

Now are you reading 120 at the filter? If so you should get a reading at the injector nut. What is deceiving beyond how much you lose from exposed lines is how much cooling happens in flow. I have a Racor 345Rc coolant heated separate filter for VO (veggie oil) and both fuels run through a 30 plate flat plate heat exchanger (FPHE, coolant in 1 side fuel in the other). I have a temp gauge right before the injection pump and it reads about 150 which is not that hot as compared to some converted systems. I shoot the injectors with a IR gun and see between 175 and 225 (#1 is always cooler than # 4). But that takes some doing to maintain at full volume fuel flow and likely it reflects more the cooler #. As compared to sitting at idle when the engine is hot the temp can easily get up to 180 on my gauge, 250 at injectors, so you can see where the loss is. Protecting, heating, the injection lines is the most critical piece to running for me though, without that all the heat I can put in pre IP would be lost there, and it's that gain in heat keeping the oil burning. And sometime soon I will get more advanced temp monitoring that gives me reading on the injectors so I can't deceive myself by pulling over with the gun and checking temp.

i have thought about a shell and tube or plate heat exchanger. the reason i run so cold is the alternator.....its stock and barly can power the lights and accy of the raider. the auto trans rear wiper a/c rear defrost ect ect takes alot away from the alternator. than those heaters kick in i can drop below 12 vollts easy... so the thought has crossed my mind.