2.6 (g54b) turbo swap project thread

[TurboMax]

I totally dig the front end of this truck.

Thanks. it was alot of work, but worth the effort for a custom look.

[TurboMax]

Love the Toyota hub swap posts! Very informative!

I'm trying to add as much useful info I can since mightyd50 no longer exists. I've got some of my work on Word like the hub swap, lsd swap, and radiator swap. I'll get the info posted in due time.

[Ramit]

Do you have any #'s for the truck? Dyno,1/8mi.,1/4mi.

[TurboMax]

Do you have any #'s for the truck? Dyno,1/8mi.,1/4mi.

nope, haven't dynoed it and I don't drag race. It's been years since I've been to the strip. I autocross or do road courses. My setup is basically stock at only 8 psi. It should be about the same hp as a stock 87 starquest, but about 500 lbs lighter. It's pretty quick though.

[TurboMax]

07-31-2008
Temps on my turbo truck were running higher then I want, so I decided to upgrade from the stock clutch fan to electric. I scored a hi-flowing 2-speed electric fan from a 90-95 Taurus for $12 at my local upull. The Taurus electric fan is a popular swap in alot of cars and pulls about 2500cfm lo-speed and 4000cfm hi-speed. I trimmed quite a bit to fit the radiator and make it sit close as possible to the radiator for clearance.
Here's a pic. of fan mounted to the radiator.


It's a really tight fit. Keep in mind I running a 2.6 turbo. I expect the n/a 2.6 will fit the same. I believe the 2.4L will have more room.


I had to shift the radiator about 1" so the water pulley would not hit. I made some brackets and added a plate to cover the gap.


I've got low speed wired up to turn on at about 180-185deg. and the high speed 200-205deg. Due to the high amp draw on the initial fan startup 10 gauge wire is recommended with a 30amp relay for low speed and a 75amp relay for high speed. I will also be upgrading the alternator to handle the extra load which should arrive in a few days.


Note: The base MM/D50 had 1 core radiator and some upgraded MM/D50 had 2 core radiators. The Montero had a 3 core radiator and bolts in as a direct replacement. (I’m told powerram50 on mightyD50 installed a Montero radiator.)

08-02-2008
I upgraded the alternator to a 75amp alternator from a Mitsubishi van and has been running great. It has more then enough amps to run the Taurus fan, headlights, and everything else. It was a direct bolt-on. All I had to do was swap out the pulleys.

[TurboMax]

08-21-2008
I also added rocker panels from the Starion. I had to cut and weld to fit the truck. It takes 4 rocker panels to do the whole truck. I also finished the ends for a cleaner look.


09-25-2008
I went and sprayed bomb the rest of the pickup bed for now.





12-29-08
I started having fuel issues over the christmas holiday and replaced the stock truck fuel pump. Doing some research the stock 1990 fuel pump (Airtex E3222) has a flow rate of 208 L/H (55gph) which is plenty for a 2.6T and even out flows the stock starquest fuel pump. I also removed the Starion external fuel pump that I was running in series with the stock truck fuel pump since it is no longer needed.

[austin]

That is a badass truck!

[TurboMax]

That is a badass truck!

thanks!

[TurboMax]

01-08-2009
I did the Montero LSD swap and here’s how I did it.

Tools needed:
12mm, 14mm sockets and wrenches
17mm, 22mm socket
10mm flare wrench
Rubber mallet
Screw drivers
Vice grips
Dial indicator with magnetic stand
Needle nose pliers

Removing the Open or LSD differential
Drain the differential fluid using a 22mm socket.


Bleed brakes and disconnect brake lines with a 10mm flare wrench from axle. Pass. Side has 1 line and the drv. Side has 2 lines disconnected. Then remove four 14mm nuts from the flange behind the drum on each side. Now you need to disconnect the drive shaft with a 12mm and 14mm wrench.


Next remove the 12mm bolt holding the emergency brake cables. Pull the axle’s loose, use a rubber mallet if needed. You just need to pull them out a few inches so the diff. will clear. Then remove ten 12mm bolts holding the differential. You should then be able to remove the diff. from the housing. I used some screwdrivers and mallet to pry the diff. loose. Try not to drop the housing on the ground, it’s a bit heavy.

Swapping the Open to LSD differential
Here’s the LSD.


I cut a hole in a 5 gal. bucket to hold the diff. carrier housing. This makes it much easier to pull the diff. in and out of the housing, but it could also be done on a workbench.


You can now remove the 17mm bolts from the bearing caps and remove or loosen the 12mm bolts from the locking plates. Then pull the LSD or Open diff. out.


Here’s a pic. of the Open and LSD diff.


If the LSD has a different ring gear, you need to swap out the ring gear from the Open to LSD. Remove the 14mm bolts, swap gears, and reinstall bolts using thread locker.


The stock 2gen rwd diff. is equipped with 3.909 ring gear/pinion the Montero/Raider usually had ring gears/pinions ranging from 4.22 to 4.625. Now reinstall the LSD into carrier housings and install the bearing caps and side bearing nuts. Now check the backlash. I did it on the workbench. I used Vise grips on the flange to prevent the pinion from moving.


Check backlash rocking the ring gear back and forth. Take a few readings around the circumference of the ring gear. Backlash should be between .0043 - .0063. Adjust backlash by turning the side bearing nut. I used a needle nose plier to turn the adjuster.


Once backlash is within spec. reinstall the locking plates. Also, check gear tooth pattern using some paint you can get at the local parts store.


Now the carrier housing w/LSD can be installed. Clean diff. housing and carrier housing mating surfaces and use silicone gasket sealer. Everything else can be reinstalled that was removed previously. Add brake fluid and bleed brakes and also fill diff. with GL-5 fluid with appropriate LSD additive to fill hole level. It should take 1.5 - 2 quarts to fill diff.

[tsiturbomightymax]

What is the lsd diff out of?