I am a newbie with problems

[artr01]

I recently purchased my 2nd mighty max or d50 truck. It is a 1992 dodge d50 with 2.4 and 151000 miles. I was driving truck home from previous owners house everything was fine until I got on interstate. Within 25 miles the truck stated to overheat and I immediately pulled over and let it cool down.I drove the truck 90 minutes to my house with heat on this seemed to be only way to keep engine cool. I replaced radiator and cap also replaced thermostat. Still after about 30-40 minutes of driving truck wants to overheat. Fan seems to be ok. Do I need to do compression test or where do I look next. I see no smoke out the exhaust. I see no water in oil. I see no oil in water although the antifreeze I put in is not green anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I really love these trucks and looked about a year to find this one.I am new to site so I am trying to learn fast. Thanks again.
Allen



<<< EDIT >>> E-mail address removed to avoid spam bots

[camoit]

Was the coolant real green when you got it? The radiator is probably plugged and needs to be boiled out. Or the water pump is worn out. Old trick is to swap out the coolant before you sell. You may have vacuum leeks to find and fix. Timing might be off also.

You would be surprised on how fast it turns rusty if you just add warier a couple of times with out mixing antifreeze.

[artr01]

Thanks Camoit I already changed the radiator, thermostat and installed fresh antifreeze with new radiator cap. I did look inside radiator before purchasing noticed antifreeze needed changing but did not see any oil in water or on cap. Oil was clean but could have been just changed. When I took oil fill cap off inside valve cover what I could see was again extremely clean. I think Monday I will pull apart and check timing and install new water pump. Motor looks extremely clean with a lot of new hoses, belts even vacuum lines look new. This is my 2nd truck and I really enjoy these trucks. Everybody I work with picks at me about these trucks but that is ok. \Thanks for advice and help.

[Fordubishi]

I've run into the overheating problem before a few times. what it ended up being was the impeller on the drive shaft would slip when it got warm. So when the truck/car is cool the impeller turns fine then the metal expands as it get warm and stops turning on the shaft.A new water pump is cheap so you're going in the right direction

[DroppedMitsu]

If you're going to replace the water pump i also recommend replacing the balance shaft belt and timing belt along with the tensioners and pulleys for them, since you are taking off that stuff to do the water pump anyways. Unless the parts and belts look good and relatively new

[artr01]

If you're going to replace the water pump i also recommend replacing the balance shaft belt and timing belt along with the tensioners and pulleys for them, since you are taking off that stuff to do the water pump anyways. Unless the parts and belts look good and relatively new

I want to thank everyone for all their help. I just joined the website Saturday night and I am amazed at the information and the help. I know I will continue to use the website. I hope everybody will be patient with me while I am learning locations of everything on the Mighty Ram 50 website. I am planning on installing new water pump tomorrow and maybe new timing belts and tentioners. I will soon be trying to post pictures of my truck also. Thanks again

[artr01]

I've run into the overheating problem before a few times. what it ended up being was the impeller on the drive shaft would slip when it got warm. So when the truck/car is cool the impeller turns fine then the metal expands as it get warm and stops turning on the shaft.A new water pump is cheap so you're going in the right direction

I just finished replacing water pump, timing belts and tensioners, thermostat again and have replaced radiator already. Truck still ran to hot for me. Takes about 10 - 15 minutes then temperature starts to rise goes all the way to the line. Then I turn heater on and temperature goes down some. No white smoke when cranking or driving. No oil in water. No water in oil. Check engine light has come on. Just wondering what to check next. Thought about catalytic converter. Wondering if it is stopped up will it run hot. Going to my mechanic tomorrow and get him to check engine codes. I AM LOST NOW.

[DroppedMitsu]

Factory service manual troubleshoot guide says:
incorrect ignition timing, cooling system faulty, water leaks-loose head bolts, bad h.g., cracked head, loose intakr manifold bolts or leaking from gaaket, cracked intake manifold

Edit: does the motor actually feel/get hot? Could it be a bad temp gauge sender

[Acuta73]

If you aren't actually losing any coolant, try buying a back-flushing kit (mostly just a T fitting that you put in your heater core line), some chemical back-flush (aka CLR), and follow the directions. Could be partially plugged passage(s) in the water jacket, cleaning the crap out of there should help.

[pennyman1]

Or you can use vinegar as the cleaning agent - cheaper and easier to work with.

[artr01]

Thanks for information here is a list of things I have done. Changed radiator, thermostat, water pump, flushed cooling system, timing belts and tensioners and now a fan assembly from my other truck. Truck will idle all day and never run hot. Gauge stays in the middle. But when I drive it takes about 20 minutes and temperature starts to rise and after about 30 minutes it gets close to the hot line and I turn heater on to help cool and it does drop some. Still no smoke no oil in water and no water in oil. Looks like I may have to pull apart and check. Will it be easy to see if head is cracked or head gasket blowed or should I try re-torque head or should I check intake side first. Maybe I should do both at the same time. I do know one of the fuel injectors was replaced not long ago and maybe I should look there. Also truck has some check engine codes but I can't seem to find anybody to read them for me. I am kind of lost because I have tried so much. Thanks for help

[Fordubishi]

Real stupid question but did you change the engine temp sensor out with a new one? The old one might be bad and is giving a false reading.

[DroppedMitsu]

You can read the codes yourself, no special or expensive tool needed just go to radioshack and buy a mini 12v electric buzzer, has a positive and neg lead coming from it and follow the directions of how to check codes on this site(also tells you what buzzer to buy exactly): vfaq.com (http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/electrical/code.html). The codes you get are not going to coincide with the ones on the site as that is for an eclipse but post which code numbers you have on here and I'll tell you what they are.

[artr01]

You can read the codes yourself, no special or expensive tool needed just go to radioshack and buy a mini 12v electric buzzer, has a positive and neg lead coming from it and follow the directions of how to check codes on this site(also tells you what buzzer to buy exactly): vfaq.com (http://vfaq.com/mods/wayback/BradBauer/electrical/code.html). The codes you get are not going to coincide with the ones on the site as that is for an eclipse but post which code numbers you have on here and I'll tell you what they are.

Thanks I will be going to Radio Shack Wednesday to get a buzzer. I am on 12 hour shifts now and it does not leave a lot of time. When I get off I don't have time to get to store around here.

[Boucher177]

Check to see if it really is overheating buy yourself a deep fry thermometer and stick it in the radiator I had the exact same problem I replaced everything in the book on mine and it still showed too hot. Come to find out it was running at 185 the whole time next I installed an aftermarket temp gauge. Hope this helps.