A lil help her or big help.

[WABBIT]

Still haven't had tme to replace my Stock carb with the Weber carb I have. I have a couple issues.
1. need to know how to cap off holeon air filter housing that used to have hose running to manifold
2. need to find out why my Right brake keeps locking up. Replaced caliper 2 yrs ago . Replaced rotor & pads. But uneven wear on pads.....Also replaced all parts related to suspension. Thought that might help. Brake only locks up in morning when I first take off and also in stop n go traffic
3. Need to find out how to kill my high Idle when I start truck. if I start it without giving any gas she is fine as long as I let it idle for about 5 mins. Thank god for my driveway being inclined.
4. If I take it easy on my truck I don't lose oil. If I run it hard or shift @ the recommended speeds when I pull into a parking lot I leave a small trail of oil.
5. I would guess its ti,e to replace the clutch because its getting harder to get it into first gear and grinds most of the time putting it in reverse.
I love this truck its a 89 2.0 . Have had it for 4 yrs no major issues yet. Would be great to get responses since this is my only vehicle and I drive 20 miles one way to work everyday. Am 5 miles from the nearest bus stop

[abeemanator]

I will try to help
1. Which manifold, the exhaust or intake I can go take a look at mine as it is all stock right now, but if it is the one on the exhaust for EGR I took mine and just cut it and welded the end shut, you may be able to find a metric pipe cap that will fit in there.

2. Could be due to a couple things, 1. your drum could be warped (Believe it or not they actually can warp) or 2. Your load proportioning valve is stuck.

3. As far as i know on older vehicles the only way to kill the high idle is to tap the gas after about 5 minutes.

4. Is you PCV valve stuck, it may be holding crankcase pressure, and when you rev it the seals cant hold the oil in (Could have something to do with your first question).

5. If your clutch was going I would think it would be easier to put it into gear, if you understand the basics of how a clutch works, i would think that your clutch cable needs to be tightened, or if you put floor mats in it could possibly be restricting the travel of the pedal and causing it to not fully disengage the clutch.

[Uneek98]

uneven wear on inboard or outboard pad? Oddly enough it could also be your master cylinder or you brake hose is torn inside causeing a flap

[DroppedMitsu]

Brake issue could be bad wheel cyclinder. If you want to get rid of the engine troubles just slap that weber on, the pos stock carb is probanly causing your issues. Forthe oil leak you need to clean ur engine and everything really good then take it for a quick drive and check where oil is coming from. Yiur clutch probably needs adjustment there is a star nut on the cable in the engine bay on the firewall to tighten thr cable.

[camoit]

I think on #2 the caliper is stuck and not floating. Remove it from the bracket and clean the parts with a wire brush so it can move free from side to side. If it's the drum brake then the shoes are on backward, front to rear.

The high idle can be adjusted, there is a screw that controls how high the RPM runs. See the manual section for your engine and there should be more info on the adjusting process.

On the oil leek, just pressure wash it then drive it around and see where the leek is coming from.

The clutch cable is probably stretched a tad bit. Try adjusting it. There should be about 1 inch of free play at the top.

[WABBIT]

Sorry have not been here for awhile. Pretty much everything has been answered except for the best way to seal the port coming off the breather cover that runs to the Exhaust manifold heatshield. I think once I find out the best way to block it off it might help a little. The tube housing running fom the heatshield to the breather has broken off. Someone had recommended to block off the hole on the breather. But just trying to figger out the best way to do so.
Thanks

[amcervantes]

Sorry have not been here for awhile. Pretty much everything has been answered except for the best way to seal the port coming off the breather cover that runs to the Exhaust manifold heatshield. I think once I find out the best way to block it off it might help a little. The tube housing running fom the heatshield to the breather has broken off. Someone had recommended to block off the hole on the breather. But just trying to figger out the best way to do so.
Thanks

Sounds like the hose just ripped. Just replace it or remove it. If it's the just the hose it should not affect the drive ability, if anything it will just take longer to warm up with it off then on is all.

[pennyman1]

contact webercarbsdirect and see if they have the air pipe blockoff plug - it used to come in the weber conversion kits

[WABBIT]

Thanks Pennyman I will just do that. As far as updates...I've finally adjusted my Clutch big difference. I had so much play in the clutch pedal. I managed to adjust it by hand no problem. Took quite a few turns, So much softer and better. As far as my Oil leak I've found the source. Its some rightnear the carb but underneath. I think its just a pinched hose. Going to try to get to it next week. Was busy trying to get Mother-in-laws van running again.....Stupid couil wire was grounded on the manifold.....