Carb Problems?

[VOL]

I have a 89 d50 2.0l 5speed that will rev to the moon at idle but try to accelorate over 1/4 throttle and it boggs down badly. I think I have a carb issue but not sure. Any suggestions were to start?

[camoit]

Vacuum leeks and or plugged carb ports.
One trick is to snap rev it, then take a rag in your hand and cover the intake. This will cause fuel to suck from all the holes in the carb. Don't let go of the rag. When it slows down remove the rag and get it to idle and clear out the excessive fuel. Do that a couple of times and test drive it. You might have a chunk of rust in the needle and seat. This can sometimes blow it out of there.

[VOL]

Thanks for the advice. I had a "old school" dirt car racer look at when I was at work yesterday. He found the guy who installed the timing belt and set the time belt for me set the timing with the vacuum advance line on. Timing was maxed out and carb settings were way out. 10 minutes of his time, a timing light and a flat head screwdriver and my truck runs great now. Now on to replacing the stock shocks and the front lower apron.

[manorchurch]

I have a 89 d50 2.0l 5speed that will rev to the moon at idle but try to accelorate over 1/4 throttle and it boggs down badly. I think I have a carb issue but not sure. Any suggestions were to start?

Mmm. The 2.0L with stock carb and a vacuum leak of any kind will almost always surge cycle at idle. It roars until it snuffs itself out, drops down then works its way back up again. Acute loss of power under load, with that POS "feedback" carb, I've seen be a clogged air bleed, an unseated bleed tube, and a misadjusted float level. If it's never been rebuilt, there is crud and varnish in the bowl -- I've seen dirt layers 1/4 inch thick in the bowl (well, almost anyway). Or, like Camoit says, there's varnish on the needle and the float isn't dropping all the way down because it catches. Supposedly, if you pull off the electric connector for the feedback crap, it's supposed to default to full rich, after which you can more or less twiddle it down to a halfway normal idle and throttle response. But, no guarantee on that.

A rebuild usually works, if you can still buy the kit. Cheaper than buying the Weber. They're not the worst carbs in the world -- that honor being reserved for the Mikuni-Solex on the early 1.6Ls. Oh, and the side-draft S/Us on the TR6. Jesus, those were a pain.