Vacuum Diagram

[blessedguy]

Hello all,

Does anyone know if there is a Vacuum Diagram on here for the 2nd Gen D50. I have a 89 and there are hoses that are plugged off on my truck. I have done oil change, new plugs, new spark plug wires, new rotor and new distributor cap. Truck does not run any better and runs like it is missing and it smokes out of tail pipe.

Any suggestions..?

[camoit]

Does this look correct?
If it's smoking black out the pipe then you are getting to much fuel. The choke might be stuck closed. The float may have sunk.


Direct link to images.
http://www.mightyram50.net/camoit/smog/85-96-smog1.jpg
http://www.mightyram50.net/camoit/smog/85-96-smog2.jpg







4336 4337

[blessedguy]

Hello Camoit,

Thanks for the diagrams. The smoke is white and the motor shakes like it is not firing right. It's not a cloud of smoke where you can't see through it, but as if it needs a tune up. I don't know what else to do. I know who ever had it last cut some wires and there are some vacuum lines plugged off.

For instance, the wiring harness that goes to the alternator, has a thick wire that screws onto the alternator in the back. Then there is a Black plug that has 2 small wires in it that plugs to the back of the alternator. Then there is this yellow wire that is with the other wires, but it is cut and just laying there attached to nothing?? What a mess it is under this hood.

[blessedguy]

Oh, forgot to mention, mine appears to be the 2.0 Liter

[DroppedMitsu]

Pretty sure the yellow wire to you speak of goes to the oil dummy light sensor on the bottom of the oil filter housing.

[camoit]

White smoke and a bad shake? Oh that could be bad. Hows the water level? I'm thinking blown head gasket now.
The 2.0 and 2.6 are the same mechanically and vacuum wise. As for the wires if you look in the manual and source info section> over 216 manuals> find the "haynes_Pickups_and_Monteros-1983-1993" manual. It has a full schematic in there.

We can hope it's the EGR valve making it run rough buts let eliminate the gasket first. A stuck EGR valve can make it run like crap at an idle. But the bad head gasket will miss fire all the time.

[blessedguy]

Camoit, I have had cars with blown head gaskets, but this one I'm not sure. I know the water level is fine and there is no chocolate coating in the oil. The white smoke is not thick, it's kinda light and it smells like emission problems. Like I said, there are vacuum hoses disconnect and plugged off?? I don't know what that person was thinking about or doing. The spark plugs are even inside of a adapter, why I don't know. lol

[blessedguy]

Pretty sure the yellow wire to you speak of goes to the oil dummy light sensor on the bottom of the oil filter housing.

Thanks for the reply. I will check that out! :)

[camoit]

The adapters were used to try to resolve a fouling problem. If you live in a state where you don't need to worry about SMOG then I would put on a Weber and a header and get rid of the feed back carb. The cat may be plugged. Pull the EGR valve and clean it out. If it sticks open then it will run rough.

[blessedguy]

The adapters were used to try to resolve a fouling problem. If you live in a state where you don't need to worry about SMOG then I would put on a Weber and a header and get rid of the feed back carb. The cat may be plugged. Pull the EGR valve and clean it out. If it sticks open then it will run rough.

Camoit, where is this EGR you are speaking of? Also, do you think it would make a difference if I took the adapters off? We don't have to go through emissions where I live.

[Acuta73]

Not knowing what engine you have, or what the set up is on the 2nd Gens....gonna just flat guess and hope it's like mine. It should be on the front side (front of engine) of the intake manifold under the carb. Or at least close to it. Can be removed and blank-plated if you don't have to worry about emissions. Just one less thing to go wrong!

[blessedguy]

I took 3 pictures of some of the issues I see under the hood.

1 of the pictures, you see the Big Blue connect by the battery. On end the 2 wires are cut..not sure where they go. I tied them in and put them on the positive battery post. Not sure if that is correct or not.

In another pictures, there is a black connector with 3 vacuum lines attached to it that have been plugged off with blue silicone. I am sure it went somewhere, but not sure.

In the last picture, there is a vacuum line coming off the carb and it has been plugged off too! Not sure where that line is originally suppose to go.

I have a book on order, but till then, if anyone knows where these things go, I would greatly appreciate the help.

Thanks,

[DroppedMitsu]

All of the plugs by tye battery are supposed to be connected to the battery. The second pic under the first intake runner or around there there is a sensor that those three vaccum lines go to.

[blessedguy]

DroppedMitsu,

Thanks for the assistance with the hoses. I put a new valve cover gasket on yesterday and it ran a little better. I unplugged the lines and put them in place, now it is running like it is missing again. I still have the smoke though. I don't know what to do. There is one more line that is plugged and it is the one coming off of the carburetor in the 3rd picture. Im not sure where it goes. Then under the carburetor pan, there is a empty nipple something goes there, not sure what line though.

I don't think a blown head gasket would cause the exhaust smell and white smoke. I'm I wrong?? I had a Honda Civic that had a blown head gasket, there was no white smoke and no exhaust smell, only the white milky substance inside the valve cover and oil cap.

[blessedguy]

Well, I found the EGR and took it off. Looks clogged up wonder what problems this would cause?

[camoit]

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4241&d=1355934316

this picture shows the lines that should connect to a TVS in the water jacket on the manifold. It would normally be with in reach of the lines. As for the EGR if it was stuck open. it will cause a vacuum leek and it will run like crap. Have you pulled the O2 sensor to see what it looks like? These feed back carbs are crap. If you don't have SMOG then I suggest swapping to a Weber. Also try plugging off the PCV valve hose. See how it runs then. Re torque all the intake bolts. Also if you have the box on the fender with 10,000 vacuum lines running in it. They like to crack in there. I'm still concerned about the white smoke being a head gasket. With the radiator full to the top and the cap off. If you start the truck does water shoot out like after a hard night of drinking? Or does it just sit there like a good dog? Also can you get us a overall picture of the engine area, so we can see if there is somthing we might be overlooking.

[blessedguy]

Camoit,

I did unplug the hose from the pvc and it smooth out pretty good. I cleaned the pvc and put it back and all was good. Hopefully cleaning this EGR will work. I just got a gasket for it as there wasn't one there. Look at the 3rd picture in my previous post. Can you tell me where that vacuum line off the top of the carb goes? My is plugged/capped off.

Also, attached a full veiw of engine bay.

Thanks

[blessedguy]

Maybe this picture is better.

[camoit]

I want to say that one curved right back to the carb it's self. I increased the size of the diagrams for you above.

[blessedguy]

I want to say that one curved right back to the carb it's self. I increased the size of the diagrams for you above.

I did what you suggested. i started the truck with the radiator cap off and no water jumped out. i even added no smoke fluid in and let it idle for about 5mins and went back to check and it was smokey outside. i drained some of the fresh oil to make room for the no smoke fluid and the fresh oil had a gas smell to it like the old oil. is that normal?

[camoit]

When you pull the plugs what do they look like?
In the Wiki we have a page in there on reading spark plugs. The only way fuel can get in the oil is past the rings or if the fuel pump is leaking it in there or when you stop the truck it's sitting in the manifold. Have you replaced the O2 sensor? For some reason it must be running rich. But you say it's white smoke, correct?

[blessedguy]

When you pull the plugs what do they look like?
In the Wiki we have a page in there on reading spark plugs. The only way fuel can get in the oil is past the rings or if the fuel pump is leaking it in there or when you stop the truck it's sitting in the manifold. Have you replaced the O2 sensor? For some reason it must be running rich. But you say it's white smoke, correct?

Yes, it is white smoke. I have not checked the plugs again, since I put in the new ones. I know the spark plugs that are in there are in some sort of adapters. I thought about removing them, but I figured they were there for a reason. I can pull them to see what they look like. What I'm I looking for?

[camoit]

Pull them out, remove the adapters. If you look at them they can tell you how the engine is preforming. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showwiki.php?title=Engine:How+to+read+a+spark+plug It can give you a base line to work from. The adapters were used by someone to keep the plugs from fouling. But using them can keep you from seeing what is truly going on in the combustion chamber. Also while there out can you run a compression test on each cylinder. You might also want to get a vacuum gage and plug it in to manifold vacuum. This will check the valves. If the needle whips back and forth then you can have a valve going bad. You can also look through the UTI training manual in the manual section. Look for ignition and smog. Information in there will help you to see what we are looking for. It covers basic knowledge of cars and trucks diagnosis.

[blessedguy]

Pull them out, remove the adapters. If you look at them they can tell you how the engine is preforming. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showwiki.php?title=Engine:How+to+read+a+spark+plug It can give you a base line to work from. The adapters were used by someone to keep the plugs from fouling. But using them can keep you from seeing what is truly going on in the combustion chamber. Also while there out can you run a compression test on each cylinder. You might also want to get a vacuum gage and plug it in to manifold vacuum. This will check the valves. If the needle whips back and forth then you can have a valve going bad. You can also look through the UTI training manual in the manual section. Look for ignition and smog. Information in there will help you to see what we are looking for. It covers basic knowledge of cars and trucks diagnosis.

I pulled the new plugs I put in and the are BLACK already!! It is like black carbon on the tips of the plugs!! These are new plugs. What is happening?

[camoit]

If there black then it's just dumping fuel in there. The float may be sunk or there can be somthing in the needle and seat. When it's running do you see fuel just dribbling in through the carb? Somthing is causing it to dump in raw fuel.

[blessedguy]

If there black then it's just dumping fuel in there. The float may be sunk or there can be somthing in the needle and seat. When it's running do you see fuel just dribbling in through the carb? Somthing is causing it to dump in raw fuel.

I will have to check it tomorrow to see if I see that. Where is this float/needle you are talking about? I don't know much about carburetors.

Thanks again! :-)

[camoit]

It's inside the carb

[blessedguy]

I looked inside the carb and the right flap moves and the one on the left doesn't appear to move. I took a flat head screw driver and pressed on it and the engine rev up and fuel trickled out of the tiny spout. (Left butterfly) Other than that, nothing appears to happen on that side.

[camoit]

Thats normal. It's the secondary and is vacuum operated. Have you looked in the manual section to see if there is somthing in the book that may help you.

Look for Haynes Manual. It covers your MM truck. It has a flow chart in the trouble shooting section.


Manuals and Other Source Info> Over 216 Manuals> haynes_Pickups_and_Monteros-1983-1993.zip

[blessedguy]

Camoit,

I got one and yes I looked through it. Just not sure where to start, there is so much. I took it to the parts store and this customer looked at it. He tends to think the head gasket is blown. Reason: he stepped on gas pedal and there was moisture/water on my hand as I held it to the tail pipe. I just hate to go through changing it, if that really isn't the problem. Like I said, I had a 4 cylinder Civic with a blown head gasket and the plugs were wet. These are drawn, black, with carbon deposits on it. I may just end up taking it to a shop and pay for their Diagnostic Testing.

[camoit]

Since you filled up the radiator. Has the water level gone down at all? My truck would blow the head gasket and use about 1/2 quart of water and not have wet plugs. When it is running the compression would keep the water from getting into the cylinder. But after it was shut off and cooled down the pressure in the radiator system would push the water into the cylinder.
You need to run a compression test and CLT to see what it is doing. We started to talk about a blown head gasket back in post 6.

All anybody can do is to help guide you to figure out the problem. You must have some mechanical skills and knowledge to get to the root of the problems. If you think somthing is over your skill level we always recommend taking it to someone that can diagnose and repair the problem. We have no way of showing you just what needs to be done or how to do it. We are 1682 miles apart with no way of herring, seeing, or smelling what it is doing.

[blessedguy]

I know and you are correct. I can tear the engine if needed. Just trying to check every option before that. I will be taking the carburetor off and have it looked at to make sure it is ok. I will let you know afterwards what I find. Thanks again for ALL the help.

Oh, and I don't think I have added any water to this truck since I got it. Coolant level appears to be fine.

[camoit]

if it's not using water then the gasket should be ok. If you pull the valve cover. Look at the air injector valves if it has them. They can cause major problems. They make a jet valve elimination kit for these trucks. It's only like 40 bucks and worth the price.

[blessedguy]

Camoit,

I finally got a compression tool and checked compression on the cylinders. Hopefully I did it right. I hooked it up and turn engine over and the readings I got are below.

1st Cylinder: 60psi
2nd Cylinder: maybe around 20
3rd Cylinder: maybe around 20
4th Cylinder: maybe less than 20

After letting the key go, they pressure immediately went to zero.

What does this mean?

[dondelusion]

I probably have about the same mechanic skills as you Blessed, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say those compression numbers don't look right.

[blessedguy]

I probably have about the same mechanic skills as you Blessed, but I'm going to go out on a limb and say those compression numbers don't look right.

Thanks for the info. I have sold the truck. I just had too many project going on and needed the money. Thanks everyone for all the help.

[doughboy940]

me to man did you find out anything on this some told me its the erg vavle cost over 190 hundreds

[BradMph]

This is a very old thread doughboy, almost 2 years ago. Might not get answered for you. :shrug:

[blessedguy]

me to man did you find out anything on this some told me its the erg vavle cost over 190 hundreds

Hello, didn't get truck fixed. Was told several times that I possibly had a blown head gasket. I just decided to sell it to a guy and he bought it and drove it away... wow

[dbrunges]

Which engine do you have: 2.0 or 2.6? Smoke coming out of the tail pipe, according to the tech manual MAYBE due to an EGR failure and caused by something as simple as a PVC valve being stuck. I have the Dodge Shop Manual for an 87 D-50. Will post vac diagrams and troubleshooting steps once I know which engine you have.

[pennyman1]

As he pointed out, he sold the truck. The moisture he got from the exhaust most likely was normal water laying in the muffler that came out while the truck was driven a short distance. THe low compression readings where most likely due to a cold motor or a leaking tester

[nifty89]

I am also a newbie with an 89 Power Ram 50. I am going to install Weber and need to know what parts are what on the Vacuum system. I need to leave the vapor canister, vacuum advance and brake booster. What all needs to be left for this?

[geezer101]

Hi and welcome to mightyram. The only vacuum circuit you need to keep connected is the vacuum advance for the distributor. The brake booster is running straight off the manifold, the crankcase ventilation is the same. There is a vacuum switch under the thermostat end of the intake manifold. It has no 'vacuum' inside of it so you can either just disconnect the hoses or physically remove the vacuum switch and fit a threaded block off bung in it to tidy it up. You will need to block off the coolant line from the barb at the heater hose as the Weber has an electric choke and the coolant feed is redundant. Check the threads and pics for references. :thumbup: