View Full Version : 1978 Ford Courier Build
I bought this truck for a daily driver and parts hauler. I have 10 other projects and didn't really plan for another. I picked it up only intending to do the body work and paint it, that was it. The exhaust was cut off at the end of the cab when I bought it. I pieced together an exhaust to get it to pass emissions. After the fifth time trying to pass, I finally passed and got to register it. A few days later the engine started knocking. I began looking for a 2.3 to put in it, couldn't find one. I decided I'd go a little different and look for a wrecked SVO/Turbocoupe... or a newer 4.6. After 3 months of getting the run around from people or just missing a sale, I decided to go back home and pull one of my spare 350s out of storage.
I've always bit a bit of a purist, and a Ford fan, so it took a while for me to convince myself to put a GM engine in it. I went back home and picked up the engine that was easiest to load at the time. Just my luck, it got uncovered at some point and filled with water. I didn't know at the time I picked it up. Once I got it back here and tore into it, it was a mess. From here, the pictures kinda tell the rest.
I'll start at the beginning and work up till now. Enjoy.
Originally when I bought it:
Ford 2.3
80s mustang 2.3 rebuilt head and new cam
5 speed transmission
Lowered with 3" blocks (rear) cut springs (front)
Current work:
'75 Chevy 350 -4 bolt
WCT5 transmission
Bottom End-
Block- Bored .060
-New pistons
-Reconditioned rods
Crank- 10-10 grind
-ARP Main bolts
Top end-
Heads- Rebuilt stock.
-All new parts (valves, seats, seals, guides, springs)
-Magnafluxed and resurfaced
Intake- Weiand power plus
Camshaft- Comp Cams Extreme Energy XE262H (advertised I-262, E-270)
-Comp roller tip rockers, lifters, push rods
Exhaust/Fuel delivery/Suspension all to be determined...
It's still got a ways to go, but I'm hoping to be driving it next summer.
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Had to rebuild the carb and do some spring cleaning
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Started to do a little body work while it was still running.
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welded all the trim holes
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uncovered the old mirror holes and welded them
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A few days after it started knocking, I parked it and went back home to pick up one of my engines. (of course I grabbed the worst of the three, and had to get it rebuild.)
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also picked up a t5 and bell housing from someone locally
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block bored .060 over due to rusted cylinders
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10-10 grind
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valves, seats, seals, guides, resurface and magnufluxed.
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painted and installed new plugs
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While I wait for more engine parts, time get the frame ready for the swap.
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Passed the final test in ALS today and rather than going home to sleep like I wanted, I decided instead to put some of the bottom end together.
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Still has a while to go, but it's getting there.
camoit
12-21-2012, 11:00 PM
Look at the upper right side of the web page find the settings for your profile.
Settings> Edit Options, and scroll down to "Miscellaneous", and by "Message Editor Interface" Click the box that says "Enhanced Interface." That will give you the option to upload to the site and use the URL thing.
THEN when making a post you can just click the "Go Advanced" button Then look for this. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/images/skinden/velocity/editor/insertimage.png When in the Advanced Editor you get the option to upload to the site.
This Will help keep your posts out of moderation because of the links. tell you hit XX posts and are moved to a different user group.
Heads are on and intake is temp installed. Going to pull it off the stand and connect the trans to start mocking it up on the frame.
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~And this is where I'm at as of today~
Had the day off today, so I got back to work on the truck.
Lined up the engine/trans to see how close it was. The pictures are after I lifted it back up a little. The oil pan set on the cross member and there was no way it would even come close to fitting.
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Cut the center of the cross member out.
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Set the engine back in. Now I have to cut the frame around the bell housing. It's too wide to drop down in there. The starter hump and the slave bracket rest against the sides and won't let it go down.
I'll also have to get different engine mounts. These are sitting on the frame right now, and I still want the engine to set about 4 inches lower than it is.
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It's going to be fun come time to do the exhaust. The frame rails are directly under where the exhaust would turn down.
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Ah. Sorry, I copied 90% of that from one of my other build threads. I usually just upload the photos to my facebook and copy the img url and use the code to post them. Most sites limit how many pictures you can upload.
But... I don't see "Message Editor Interface". There's "Miscellaneous" and then attachments under that.
camoit
12-21-2012, 11:37 PM
It's there. This will make thumb nails automatically so you can make a clean looking thread. You also get more options like under line, centering page brakes, tables, things like that. Once you figure it out you will see the potential of building pages. It's cool.
Settings> Edit Options, and scroll down to "Miscellaneous", and by "Message Editor Interface" Click the box that says "Enhanced Interface. There is 3 different choses.
Got it.
It's under 'My Account' > General Settings > Miscellaneous Options.
Thanks. :)
camoit
12-22-2012, 12:01 AM
sweet... I'm going through it now and fixing the pictures. Formatting is the key, that and having a nice truck like yours.
Hows it look now?????
4doorciv
12-22-2012, 11:01 AM
You got some pics of the inside of the cab? Ie dash. Lol.
Fordubishi
12-22-2012, 12:15 PM
Nice project but.............. should have gone with a 302/351W with a T56 :P To bad you are so far from me I have a 79 2.3L turbo with an 83 EFI turbo set up that's completely rebuilt and should push just over 200hp that has been sitting around for 10 years from a project that got sold.
My Christmas presents came in today. Now I can finish putting the valve train together and close up the front of the engine.
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These are the only shots of the interior I have
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Nice project but.............. should have gone with a 302/351W with a T56 :P To bad you are so far from me I have a 79 2.3L turbo with an 83 EFI turbo set up that's completely rebuilt and should push just over 200hp that has been sitting around for 10 years from a project that got sold.
I think you mean, I should've done whatever I wanted, which I am. It's a common mistake people make, but I appreciate the effort. ;)
I did want to stick with a Ford engine. I thought about putting my 351C in it, but then I'd have to find something else for the cougar.
camoit
12-22-2012, 09:50 PM
I have a new quick time bell housing that will adapt a ford small block to a T56. $300.00 NIB it's an extra, if you wanted it.
Fordubishi
12-23-2012, 12:10 AM
lol Yeah I have a 72 351C 2V out of my Cougar sitting under the bench looking for a home but the 302 was a much better fit in the D-50 and I didn't have $10,000 to build the 351C the way I wanted to.
looking at the pic's can you go with block hugger headers and drop the exhaust just behind the engine mounts something like these
http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/SUM-G9060.jpg
lol Yeah I have a 72 351C 2V out of my Cougar sitting under the bench looking for a home but the 302 was a much better fit in the D-50 and I didn't have $10,000 to build the 351C the way I wanted to.
looking at the pic's can you go with block hugger headers and drop the exhaust just behind the engine mounts something like these
Ha, I have a 72 351C 2V sitting for the same reason. lol ... and because I was in Okinawa the last 3 years, so I couldn't do anything with it.
The block huggers have been tried, they still don't clear the rails. There's been one guy I've found that was able to use a factory pair of manifolds, but I forgot what vehicle they were for.
Most other people run them into the wheel wells or run them forward, then under the cross member and back.
I have a set of old headers I'm going to chop up to see what I can do, then make something permanent.
Fordubishi
12-23-2012, 02:32 AM
Yeah that's what I had to do with a set of BBK shorty's to clear the frame and steering box. Originally I used stock manifolds, passengers side was an 81 Crown Vic and Drivers side was 72 Bronco. Took a few trips back and forth from the wreckers but it worked. Cheap pipe to pick up is some Dynomax J and U bends they are a hell of a lot cheaper the pieces for "Build your own" stuff. You can take a look at WWW.photobucket.com/fordubishi there is some pic's of the mods to the drivers side header.
You may not have realized this, but that's a whole hell of a lot of purple and pink. I like it. Where did you manage to find high temp purple?
Thanks for the info and pics. Your frame and the courier frame look to be fairly similar so that should help out a little.
For the steering, I'm hoping to have a little extra room near rear cylinder since I'll be converting to a front mounted rack. I'll just need enough space to slide the column straight through.
Fordubishi
12-23-2012, 01:26 PM
You don't need "High Temp" paint on an engine,I just used BASF base/Clear as the engine should never reach a temp higher then 280 degrees and that WAY to hot. The only place a High temp paint is needed is on the exhaust manifolds or headers as they can push 1800 degrees.I have painted the rear drums on vehicles and they work for a few years till the paint starts to flake off but that's do to the properties of the cast iron not the paint.
camoit
12-23-2012, 10:22 PM
On the rack and pinion here is somthing that you may want to look at. Just in case you need to go with front pinion.
http://www.mightyram50.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=1522
I was feeling lazy today so I didn't get much done.
Installed the cam, timing kit and cover, lifters, push rods and rockers. I still have to do the initial adjustment on the valves though.
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You don't need "High Temp" paint on an engine,I just used BASF base/Clear as the engine should never reach a temp higher then 280 degrees and that WAY to hot. The only place a High temp paint is needed is on the exhaust manifolds or headers as they can push 1800 degrees.I have painted the rear drums on vehicles and they work for a few years till the paint starts to flake off but that's do to the properties of the cast iron not the paint.
Interesting. I've never tried using base/clear on an engine. I've done it on brakes, but I never compared the two. Makes sense.
On the rack and pinion here is somthing that you may want to look at. Just in case you need to go with front pinion.
http://www.mightyram50.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=1522
Thanks! That could come in handy down the road. I'll keep that in mind.
For Christmas, I did some more work. Cut the sections out of the frame to fit the bell housing and got the engine mounted.
Had to cut the mounts nearly all the way down to get them between the frame with enough room to mount the brackets.
I'm going to start on the trans cross member/mount this weekend.
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They look crooked in the picture, but they're lined up. Don't worry.
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camoit
12-26-2012, 10:50 PM
Oh ya if you look in here you might find some things you may need. It's nearly all the links to places I found things to do my build. From tabs and bushings, to milling machines.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/261-Camoit-s-Links-to-parts-and-equiptment-used-in-build
Thanks again. By the looks of it, I will definitely be needing to use the v-box. I'll look through the rest of that thread in a few.
First thing I had to do today was cut the right engine mount tabs off and lower them. The right side was about 5/8" higher than the left side. It's level now.
Set the cab back on today to see if everything clears, marked the floor where I need to cut for the shifter.
It looked like the engine set low enough to fit the carb and air cleaner under the hood without modification so I grabbed the hood and set it on. Fuck yea! Clears by at least 1.5".
I can't seem to get the pictures to work in thumbnail. I keep getting errors.
Here's the link to the pics on my facebook.
http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.296762830423349.51852.191451017621198&type=1
4cylinders
01-06-2013, 04:21 PM
hey, check your PM inbox.
Replied. Sorry, didn't catch the notification.
camoit
01-07-2013, 03:33 PM
We got the picture thing fixed. It was a server side problem. We were moved to a new server thats mega fast with a hole bunch of RAM. We are the Guinea pig of the new server. We have found one strange issue that starts to pop up after about 2 weeks or so. But Our ISP is working out the kinks. It's nice to be able to send them a Txt and get things fixed 24-7
MaxinOut
01-09-2013, 12:35 AM
That is a nice beast you have there sir
4cylinders
01-11-2013, 01:43 PM
hey, headers for anything?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-670188/media/images/make/chevrolet
Parts update.
Short water pump, 160 thermostat, hv oil pump, oil pickup, hardened drive and header weld up kit (thanks 4cylinders).
All that's left is a carb, distributor and random small pieces (hoses, brackets...)
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Fordubishi
01-17-2013, 06:27 PM
Careful of the HV oil pumps unless you have a 7-12 quart oil pan you can starve the crank for oil as it pushes all the oil up top and takes a few sec to drain back into the pan. I've had this happen on a few engines with stock 5-6 quart pans and after regrinding the crank installing new bearings and a stock pump it didn't happen again.One 350 we thought it was the line bore and had it machined after it took out the crank 3 times till the machinist asked if we were using a HV Pump.
Good to know, I'll keep that in mind.
4cylinders
01-17-2013, 09:43 PM
hey, happy birthday haha
more local stuff coach's chassis 505-299-8564
9812-b cochiti s.e., couple blocks off ubank, west
http://www.koenigsonline.com/
steel place on zuni
ikeepzitclean
01-19-2013, 07:45 PM
nice lookin rig. and good job w/ the build
Pulled the front suspension off and started cutting off all the old bits.
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I could really go for a cutting torch right about now. Took 4 hours to cut the one side off with a cutting wheel. Not looking forward to the other side.
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4cylinders
01-22-2013, 09:57 PM
hey, harbour freight sawsall $29.95
I think that's what I'm going to do. I was headed their today for some cutting wheels and to stop by that steel place to get some material to make the cross members, but the Lexus sprung a coolant leak so I had to turn around. Won't be doing any work on it until this weekend now.
ikeepzitclean
01-23-2013, 11:50 PM
hey, harbour freight sawsall $29.95
this.
Sawsall didn't quite do it, but with the cutting wheels and the saw, finally got around to cutting the other tower off last weekend. Had to set the engine back on so I could loan someone my hoist. In return, I'm getting a 15 circuit(iirc) harness for the truck. :) One less thing not to have to worry about later.
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Still waiting on the control arms to come in, but I got the 2" drop spindles and the parallel 4 link.
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ikeepzitclean
02-21-2013, 02:28 AM
^^ not a bad deal for loaning someone da hoist.. btw, how much ur pair of spindles run 4?
The spindles were around $150 iirc.
The latest news, I received the billet single v-belt pulleys, mustang II upper and lower arms, and steering rack. I also went down to Choice Steel and picked up 10' of 2x2x1/8" square tube and 10' of 2x1/8" flat stalk. The cross member is done, now I need to make the mounts for the upper arms and shocks.
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4cylinders
03-14-2013, 04:17 PM
hey, looks great!
may have to call you " MR" fab!!
camoit
03-14-2013, 10:26 PM
Just think 2 more years and your done. Mabe...
Haha, I hope it doesn't take that long. Then again, I am now the legal guardian of two youngins, so it may take longer.
Got the steering rack mounted today.
Both my grinders died on me today, so I didn't get to finish making the brackets for the upper control arms. Going to run to HF tomorrow so I can hopefully get the arms mounted before I get back to work monday.
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Today, went to harbor freight and bought a cheap grinder so I could finish.
Got the arms mocked up. Still a bit of welding to do, but it's great to finally see everything in place.
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ikeepzitclean
03-18-2013, 11:46 AM
^ good progress so far man.. keep it up. what yr./model PS rack is that from?
It's a typical OE style mustang II rack.
ikeepzitclean
03-19-2013, 10:04 PM
oh I see.. how long do u think it'll take u realistically to complete this project? j/w.
im actually in da process of re-building my truck too..was gonna start a build thread but i put it on da back burner for now till i get all these pix organized, misc. parts ordered, etc. its taking twice as long, having to take pix of every little thing I do. :grinno: lol
Lol. I got in the habit of taking a few pictures if there was enough done every time I stop for a smoke break.
At this point, it's tough to give a realistic time frame. I have a lot to do outside of the garage and a few side projects for some friends that need to be done before May. I'd like to have it done (or at least running and rolling) by the end of summer. The body work will take me the most time though. I wanted to keep it stock looking, but due to the suspension parts I have, it's looking like I'll be wider than originally planned, so there will be a lot more metal work to be done. All this and being on a new budget, I'm just happy finishing sections.
ikeepzitclean
03-19-2013, 11:05 PM
lol i feel u.. i been da same way. other projects and side things keepin me from focusing on it 100%. for da past week or so i've been on it every day but idk how long that'll last. lol work is draining me too, and as im putting stuff back together I realize lil misc. parts here and there that I still need to order.
mo' money, mo' money, mo' money!! :lmao:lmao
I made a trans cross member a few weeks ago. I may add some support to it, or redo it... there's a tad bit of flex if I jump up and down on it.
I used the old member to cut up and use as a stencil. lol
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Pulled the bed, fuel tank, axle, wires and lines off the rear. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to get back in there to start on the 4 link and 9"
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camoit
04-10-2013, 02:20 PM
Make the new one out of C Chanel or add 1.5" flat strap down the sides. Problem solved. Grind smooth.
Keep in mind socket and bolt clearance to the sides. Adjust as necessary.
Make the new one out of C Chanel or add 1.5" flat strap down the sides. Problem solved. Grind smooth.
Keep in mind socket and bolt clearance to the sides. Adjust as necessary.
Flat stock down the side is what I may be doing. It's brace on one side so far, I'll get the other side done later.
Got off work early yesterday and took some time for myself. Cut the fuel tank brackets, exhaust brackets and leaf spring brackets off. This weekend I should be able to start getting the axle under there.
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Haven't had time to do anything recently. I did get half the rear end done a few weeks ago and got the front brakes put on.
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DroppedMitsu
06-11-2013, 07:59 PM
Looking good. Are you going to run a panhard or a watts link to hold the axle in place?
Looking good. Are you going to run a panhard or a watts link to hold the axle in place?
I was planning on a short panhard bar, but that's still in the air. My fuel cell won't fit where I originally planned with the parrallel setup.
I'm going to set the bed back on to take measurements for another spot I thought about, if that doesn't work, I will cut the upper tabs off the axle and move them to make a triangulated 4-link.
camoit
06-12-2013, 11:00 AM
Have you looked in the Wiki at the Rear Axel & Suspension:Rear Link Supension. Types and Theroy (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showwiki.php?title=Rear+Axel+and+Suspension:Rear+L ink+Supension+Types+and+Theroy)
Fordubishi
06-12-2013, 11:57 AM
the longer the pan hard bar the less deflection in the axle. Mine is almost 4 ft long and moves the axle in an arch about 1/8" from all the way up to center to all the way down.If you can run the bar from one side of the frame to as far as you can on the other side of the axle. If you have the space go with a watts linkage. Not sure what fuel cell you have but I used a 17gallon that's 30"long,17"wide and 7"thick. It fits behind my axle and air system.
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Being the axle is where I was going to try next. I have a 12g cell, but wanted to put it in front of the axle and route a filler neck for it.
I didn't know the length of the bar would make a difference, i just assumed the shorter one would allow less side movement. I'll keep that in mind.
Have you looked in the Wiki at the Rear Axel & Suspension:Rear Link Supension. Types and Theroy (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showwiki.php?title=Rear+Axel+and+Suspension:Rear+L ink+Supension+Types+and+Theroy)
I have now. :)
FmaxinOut
06-20-2013, 03:21 PM
I Was wondering if you might have a ford 2.3 liter for sale to in my 86 ranger
tanzytinkerz
06-20-2013, 06:51 PM
I Was wondering if you might have a ford 2.3 liter for sale to in my 86 ranger
I have a courier motor and 4 speed tranny sitting in my dads garage that he might sell. I have no idea what motor it is or size just now its a 4 nager with a 4 speed manual. somewhere around 120k miles but don't quote me lol it came out of a good running truck.
tanzytinkerz
06-20-2013, 06:52 PM
Sorry its a 79 courier
FmaxinOut
06-20-2013, 07:40 PM
just let me know
My dad has been cleaning the frame while he's been visiting. It's just about bare now.
We will be going to Pikes Peak this weekend, so no work will be done, but the following weekend, I'll be back at it.
I put in the order for the axle shafts yesterday. Took a few phone calls, but after talking to the techs at Currie, we got it figured out. Axles should be finished by the 9th and delivered here shortly after.
My frame will finally roll again!!!
I Was wondering if you might have a ford 2.3 liter for sale to in my 86 ranger
I do have a ford 2.3. It has a knock though, and I'm in NM. I can't say it would be worth the shipping cost.
FmaxinOut
06-28-2013, 11:14 PM
around here the ford 2.0 and 2.3 are hard to find
Well, If you want it and are willing to pay shipping, by all means, offer me a price. I haven't decided whether I'm going to use any of it, recycle it or just keep it as a driveway weight.
Fordubishi
07-01-2013, 06:58 PM
you can get the 2.3L out of any 74-93 mustang, Capri, ranger, Pinto, Bobcat(the car) and a few other small to mid size cars from the early 80's. so they should be easy to find
Suspension ordered sunday, should be here the end of this week or beginning of next week.
Went to the scrap steel place here and picked up some 4" dia x 1/4" wall tubing to make the exhaust holes in the body mounts. Got the driver side done yesterday.
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The axles came in today and are a perfect fit.
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Once the suspension is on, it's going to Solid Tech so Sean can build the headers and exhaust. I decided not to do them myself.
Yesterday and today, finished the suspension... with the exception of the panhard bar.
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Fordubishi
07-22-2013, 12:41 AM
Looking good, I hope you are going to tie the bottom of the 4 link front brackets to the frame as it looks like they are only attached at the top of a piece of 2x2. With the torque of the engine the lower bars could cause the lower part to flex and break the top weld.Just my 2 cents :D
Yes, I will be adding bracing to everything when I get it back, before i go to paint it
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Sent it off to the shop for the exhaust today. He won't be able to start on it until the end of the week or beginning of next week, but it frees up some space for the rest of the work to be done here.
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camoit
07-31-2013, 03:25 PM
The thing that sucks is you need to build them and then take them back apart, send it out for powder coat reassemble and paint it. I give it at least 1 or more years tell your done, done, and can just enjoy it. Looks great, I love them body styles. It was back when cars had lines. Now a days there just a blob going down the road.
The thing that sucks is you need to build them and then take them back apart, send it out for powder coat reassemble and paint it. I give it at least 1 or more years tell your done, done, and can just enjoy it. Looks great, I love them body styles. It was back when cars had lines. Now a days there just a blob going down the road.
Having to send them back out is not too bad, once I get it back I'm stripping it back down to the frame anyway. I still need to add some bracing and paint the frame. While I have it torn down, I can have the exhaust done. Then I still need to build the bed floor, tonneau cover and do all the body work and interior.
I can definitely see it being another year before it's done... especially if I don't find anyone to do the wiring with me.
camoit
07-31-2013, 05:44 PM
Yep, it took me about 4-6 months to build the harness and breaker panel. I'm just now getting the last of the bugs out of it. If you use MSD or something like that then be sure to route the pick up wires away from everything else and use a shielded wire with a ground bleed to avoid EMF triggering. It has been a battle for me over the last couple of months to get it fixed and back together. I used hydraulic hose cover as my loom. It worked and looks good.
I will keep that in mind.
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I had a problem with the wheels not fitting due to the tapered center bore. I used some spacers to keep them sitting flush and had the lug nuts holding on by only a few threads. Since it's only for rolling around, I figured it'd be alright, but when it came of the trailer one of the lugs couldn't hold on anymore and ripped out the few threads it was holding on by. Obviously, this caused a problem since I only had two lug nuts on. So... I went with my original plan, which works for both the spare wheels, and the wheels I'll be using later.
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The knurl was .030 larger so I took them to some people who like to work for beer.
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Then I just had to cut the end of all the closed end lug nuts. lol
Worry not... this was only to get it back on the ground so the exhaust can get done.
Slowly but surely. They still need to be smoothed out and the rest of the exhaust built, but here's the update on the headers.
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BradMph
10-02-2013, 08:55 PM
Damn, look at that friggin drill press. There is a word for something like that...it's called SPOILED. :lmao:
Damn, look at that friggin drill press. There is a word for something like that...it's called SPOILED. :lmao:
If it belonged to a person, I would agree. Lol
but it happens to be owned by the government... That's all I'm saying. :)
camoit
10-02-2013, 11:54 PM
Damn, look at that friggin drill press. There is a word for something like that...it's called SPOILED. :lmao:
I believe the word you are looking for is Bridgeport.
BradMph
10-03-2013, 06:52 AM
lol, I be lucky to have a hand drill and a broke in half drill bit that has been sharpened as many times as a pencil. :lmao: JK!
A little more progress. They're looking to have it done by the 15th. The spintechs came in friday, piping came in today.
It will be header to midpipe connected with a v-band, then slip fit to the rest of the exhaust. It was originally going to be header then one pipe going back, but the tight fit of the v-band through the exhaust hole in the frame would cause me to have to pull the rear wheels just to pull the exhaust off. This way, I can also be obnoxious and pull the exhaust off and basically long tubes to make a bunch of racket. lol
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camoit
10-09-2013, 08:13 PM
Wish I had the room for a clamp.
The headers and exhaust are finally done. Now I can get back to finishing the frame and suspension.
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BradMph
10-19-2013, 08:56 AM
Those header flanges going to be thick enough to not warp under extensive heat conditions?
Those header flanges going to be thick enough to not warp under extensive heat conditions?
Yes. They're flanges off an old set of hooker headers I had.
It's been quite a while since I updated or did much work.
After it came back from getting the exhaust built, I stripped it back down to finish some welds and paint the frame and suspension parts.
Put the frame back together this week.
8689
8690
camoit
03-22-2014, 06:10 PM
I was wondering what was going on with this one.
I was wondering what was going on with this one.
I got caught up in the 240 build since it was too cold to paint anything. I'm moving next month, so I figured it would be a perfect time to get it back together. lol
The thing that sucks is you need to build them and then take them back apart, send it out for powder coat reassemble and paint it. I give it at least 1 or more years tell your done, done, and can just enjoy it. Looks great, I love them body styles. It was back when cars had lines. Now a days there just a blob going down the road.
Looking back, this post is pretty funny. It's been over a year now.
We're settled in the new house and I just received most of the parts needed to finish it so I pulled the body back off this weekend. Found someone to sandblast the body.
I'm working a second job now, so time is limited, but I'm hoping to have it done by late March so I can drive it on my birthday.
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/28/ba669b6975340f6e3c8219929dba03eb.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/28/1d023e1fdad1017ad0823bafdd45d13f.jpg
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BradMph
11-30-2014, 09:18 PM
Looks like a parts banquet has just started on your front walkway. Just couldn't wait to bring it into the house huh, opened the boxes up right after FedEx dropped them off. New parts.... ARR ARR ARRrrrrr! Luv the Metal art piece in the garage back there. "Le' Ford" early classic art deco.
Back to working two jobs now so time is, once again, limited. But I'm slowly making progress.
Got the roll pan, the dress up kit came in for the engine, but I need to modify the oil pan slightly.
I bought an engine test stand to tune the engine on before putting it back on the frame.
I also finally found a fuel take that would fit between the frame rails...with a little persuasion. lol
Oh, best part, finally found someone to blast the body.
...sorry about the size of the pictures...
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BradMph
01-11-2015, 03:11 PM
You got as much room in your garage as I do. When I get down working on my vehicles in my garage they are buffed out from me rubbing against them as I squeeze by from one end to the other. :grin:
12566 ????
You got as much room in your garage as I do. When I get down working on my vehicles in my garage they are buffed out from me rubbing against them as I squeeze by from one end to the other. :grin:
12566 ????
Haha, that's my supervisor's shoe. I was surprised, he usually wears flip flops when working in the garage. This time he actually covered his feet with something.
Cleaned up the frame, build the mounts for the tank, relocated the filler neck and repainted the rear of the frame. (pic is before paint.)
I can't seem to find my new wire harness anywhere... I've been trying to locate it so I can build it, but no such luck yet.
https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/1690721_982170438477855_6088574738648058162_n.jpg? oh=05b45c73c69b745401f9da54e6f2fd8c&oe=55376736
Finally found the wiring harness yesterday. I'll get started on it soon.
The frame will also be rolling again by the end of the weekend. I ordered the wrong kit the first time...ordered the small bearing housing kit but I have the torino bearing housing. By the time I found the return slip for the first kit, it was to late to return it, so if anyone wants a disk brake conversion kit for a small bearing Ford 9" or 8" housing, I have a brand new one.
Got the new kit in last week, took the axles to a buddy of mine so he could shave the axle a little so the disk would fit over it. I installed one side tonight.
https://scontent-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/p720x720/1506659_1010208322340733_3266260800258755605_n.jpg ?oh=6f3e8d115b0a9ec6a188d911e5c855dd&oe=554A10BD
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Finally got all the little pieces I've needed to finish the engine.
Started it up on the test stand today. I was excited about starting it so I forgot to hook up the choke which is why it wouldn't start at first and didn't react very well to the throttle. Since we know it runs now, I need to figure out where to mount the alternator, then run it again with the radiator hooked up. All in all, a very good morning for me. :)
https://youtu.be/aDX5Hf3yD7A
Finally made some space and time to start on the body work.
Started with the bed floor. There was one bad rust spot behind the left wheel well, one that's getting bad in the same spot on the right side and two quarter size rust holes near the left tail light. There are also the typical small dents on the wheel wells and floor between the wheel wells.
Here's the left side by the wheel well. Didn't get a picture before I cut it out though.
Took a flat piece of sheet metal, made a few cuts in it and spent about 2 hours with some body hammers to get it to match as close as possible. I still need to touch up a few spots and finishing smoothing it out, but this was the progress until closing time.
https://scontent-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/p720x720/11110763_1044469758914589_8486430641552148593_n.jp g?oh=1a63676866e0a013310e275b83d1d421&oe=559E5D0F
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More work on the bed...
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11168531_1046049902089908_1126493136092809690_n.jp g?oh=5d29ad6f19a9455d995c680172b89b4f&oe=55DD0EE7&__gda__=1438894315_28b9fa1a4a221044245c6981c75fdd6 2
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Now for the bed sides. 2 of 3 patches are in place. I'm getting them all in place so I can work back and forth to prevent me from getting carried away on one and warping the side.
https://scontent-dfw.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11218489_1048101135218118_1643656102940379791_n.jp g?oh=3523c7d43dc860e550cd60a2baab4200&oe=55DF00A2
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Right side just about done with minimal warpage. Need to touch up a few pin holes. Pictures don't do much justice...but it is what it is.
https://scontent-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11169792_1048947591800139_6982648255348648065_n.jp g?oh=26e9573df885ab2c39feaf0d97ce4782&oe=55CFB718
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Left side started (fuel door). There are two small spots I'll have to patch as well due to some rust between the layers.
https://scontent-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/10649759_1048956631799235_335375957222032550_n.jpg ?oh=8bde233a462f36809b186e6a8a09b94e&oe=55D00FC3
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