2.0L Performance Mods

[Ram50Man]

Ok, so im curious what are some pretty good performance mods you can do to a carb'd 2.0L? The thing comes stock with only like 97hp or some thing like that. What can I do to mine, to squeeze some more Horsies outta her? Here is what I have done so far....
Port and Polished Intake Ports on the Intake Manifold and Head.
Aftermarket Air Cleaner Assembly
Gutted my Cat Converter (shh dont tell uncle sammie)
(think I may have gained like 5hp outta those!)

[crvtec90]

Nitrous! BbbwwwwaaaaaaaHHHH................kaboom. LOL Just kidding , Im sure there is better stuff.

[pennyman1]

Add a weber 32/36 carb rejetted to match your setup, and a header if you can find one. I will be doing the hop up on a 86 2.0 and will do a thread on it as I go.

[l.k.]

im sure if you really wanted to gain some hp. you could just bore the block, rods, pistons, etc. You can do anything to any motor its just expensive. If not looking to rebuild/stroke etc. I dont think these things have but a handful of after market parts....if that...

good luck and ill keep checking back and also looking for some info/help/tips...

[Ram50Man]

I just rebuilt the engine. I should have thought of boring it over while i had it all stripped down. I looked into getting a header but it seems all the ones I can find are for the 2.6L and the ones that say they will fit the 2.0L require even spaced exhaust ports, mine are not even spaced. It has the 2 in the center that are side by side. A rejetted 32/36 to match my set up? What do you mean by set up? Its still all pretty much stock.
This is a pic as I was putting it all back together, but you get the idea.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=175&d=1302378919
I am curious as to if I am hindering some performance with the aftermarket Air Cleaner Assembly, as some components could not be hooked back up.... such as the tube that goes from the Exhaust Manifold for the Hot/Cold Air switch (has to do with proper choke operation I believe), and the vacuum line that goes to the bottom of the Original Air Cleaner, the valve cover breather hose that fed back into the Air Cleaner, and the tube that comes from the metal contraption off the exhaust manifold. (forgot what its called)

[pennyman1]

The issue caused by the air cleaner is it's too small (short) and will affect the airflow into the carb; air doesn't like 90 degree bends and that air cleaner will cause the air to make a 90 into the carb. The other hoses can be eliminated easily. Any time you add more airflow you need more fuel; the ported head, the open air cleaner, free flow exhaust, are more than a stock jetted carb can work with and it will lean out the motor, causing loss of power and engine damage.

[Ram50Man]

The issue caused by the air cleaner is it's too small (short) and will affect the airflow into the carb; air doesn't like 90 degree bends and that air cleaner will cause the air to make a 90 into the carb. The other hoses can be eliminated easily. Any time you add more airflow you need more fuel; the ported head, the open air cleaner, free flow exhaust, are more than a stock jetted carb can work with and it will lean out the motor, causing loss of power and engine damage.

Ahh i see, so because of my current set up, i need a better carb to compensate for the affects of the air cleaner, the ported intake, etc. I wonder if thats why i cant seem to get the fuel to air ratio mixed right with the adjuster screw. Dam should I put the stock air cleaner back on till I can afford a better carb? You say use a weber 32/36 rejetted, is there a certain type of rejetting? I dont know shit about carbs, so hopefully thats not a retarded question. Oh and the height of the new air cleaner is actually slightly taller than factory.

is the 32/36 the same as the Weber 5200? or is the 32/36 better for what i need?

[4doorciv]

You can also look into some 4g63 eclipse parts. The pistons are similar and rods are the same. You can also do a blowthrough turbo setup. A dohc head is also possible. ;)

[pennyman1]

The Holley/Weber 5200 is basically the same carb, but with more emissions fittings if you need to go that route. I posted in the for sale section a seller on Ebay that was selling several holley 5200s new and rebuilt for 85.00 each. You can use the same adaptor plates the weber carbs use. As far as jetting, the 5200s were setup for 2300 4 cyl pinto motors, so they may be jetted close to your needs. There are plenty of books online to understand how to set these carbs up for whatever setup you have. The diameter is also important, as more surface area of the filter means more air flow. Those small air filters look cool, but strangle a carb due to the small surface area of the filter. That is also why when the ricers put those cutesy small filters on their air intakes they run worse instead of better - no airflow. Keep in mind the surface area of the original filter; then you will see what I mean.

[Ram50Man]

Is the factory Mikuni able to be rejetted? or would that cost about as much as a good weber? Otherwise I will have to save up for the $289 Weber 32/36. There is just something about putting a Pinto Carb on my truck I am soooo not cool with!.... lol

[Acuta73]

Weber makes a 36/36 Progressive I may yet buy. Less horses than the 38/38 Synchro, but I doubt I'd see a big difference, except in fuel mileage. Summit has a header for the 2.6 for $140, have a look for the 2.0!

Putting a header on and opening the exhaust will make bigger horses, but lose some torque (as I understand it, you lose back-pressure). These are pretty heavy trucks, you may get some top-end speed, but yer gonna be sluggish off the line. Something to consider unless you work on lightening the load a bit.

Another way to make a baby step is lose the mechanical fan for an electric. Not gonna buy you a lot, but a few. ~$100 for the conversion.

Ignition- Get an MSD or similar Capacitive Discharge and lose the Inductive Coil. Good plugs and wires with a wide gap will make a big difference with the port and polish.

Timing- Computer with a locked Dizzy is better. It's possible, but expensive.

I dunno if you have Silent Shafts in that engine, but the guy who built mine was an SCCA builder. He said: "KEEP THEM, but balance and line bore". I did (I really don't know why, but I have to assume it has to do with keeping the engine from vibrating Vs. the couple HP lost turning the shafts). Opening up the bore and dropping flat or domed 3-ring pistons is a big plus.

Small air filter is not good if you use stock, K&N and similar filters have less restriction. There's a balance to be had there somewhere...

I'm not big on the math, but I have some trust in what I'm told by good professionals. Though, I always look for second and 3rd opinions.

[pennyman1]

Another way to get more horses is to go to a lighter flywheel. Our truck flywheels are real heavy ~ 30# so the more weight you can remove here the better. I run a lightened stock one for years now with no issues and have been looking for a lighter one from another mitsu. Some have suggested a fwd eclispe non turbo flywheel, but I don't have one to compare. If you have one lightened, be sure to have it balanced. Torque loss with headers depends on what the headers were designed for, max torque or max power. Max torque headers will maximize the torque output at the engines torque peak; power headers are for max HP at HP peak. most headers for our trucks are for max power, but a few were made for max torque, such as the Doug Thorley tri-y headers, or the Cyclone anti-reversionary header. Pacesetter is a max power header. I have run all three, and have a pacesetter on my 1980. I will put the Doug Thorley header on him when I rebuild the motor, as I think the pacesetter is tuned for power near the top of the rpm range that I don't run in.

[4doorciv]

Fidanza lightened flywheels for the 1g with replacable friction surfaces with a non turbo pressure plate and starion disc is an option. Although the flywheel would need to be machined to accept the pilot bearing, as with all Dsm flywheels.

[Rahtid]

Get the Findanza flwheel for a 88-89 Starion no machining necessary http://www.jmautoracing.com/19851989-mitsubishi-starion-fidanza-aluminum-flywheel-p-43421.html

[Ram50Man]

hmmmm... interesting! maybe i can get this 2.0L to be half decent after all. WOW, thats $331! man I need to make a list and prioritize what I want to buy. I wish i would have known all this when i did my rebuild, now i feel like i kinda wasted a rebuild!... lol

[4doorciv]

There is a dsm fwd turbo fidanza flywheel for less then 200 on that side I posted in the links. Maperformance. With that you can get a starion disc and eclipse pressure plate. You can piece some oem replacements and it should handle the power. So far it help my 4g63 turbo motor till the motor blew.