new to the d50 world and new memeber fom north dakota

[rgg687]

:)the problem im having is i replaced the stock carb with a weber carb on my ram 50 and took off all the smog crap on the engine and the engine bay and had to replace the motor cause the ballancer shafts froze up so im trying to get it from deiseling i can un plug the ecm and it will still run but after it gets warmed up it deisels when i turn the engine up the timing is set to 7 degrees and the wiring is a little screwy cause the black red and black and white they are wired together and the red black that goes to the starter will kill the engine if it is hooked up to the balast resistor

[rgg687]

also the red black and black white are on the ignition

[Sergio T]

Welcome! Sorry, I've got nothing, but I know there are a ton of guys on here that know a thing or two. Good luck!

[92bluemax]

Welcome to the site, hope you can get your carb fixed

[pennyman1]

Once you put a weber on the ecm does nothing. Dieseling of this type can be caused by the float being stuck in the carb due to debris on the needle in the needle and seat, excessive pressure from using the mechanical fuel pump and forcing fuel past the needle and seat, or too hot a range of spark plugs. There is a idle cutoff solenoid available for the Weber that will shut off fuel flow thru the carb when the ignition is turned off, but that will not fix an overpressure condition.

[rgg687]

4646ok but the ecm is still conected to the balast resistor and also is there a plate i can put in place if i take the mechanical fuel pump out and if i put a electric fuekl pump in what pressure do i need to be at and where can i get a good air filter that is like this on on this image i got off the internet

[ikeepzitclean]

welcome to the forum bud. hope u enjoy the resources. search through the threads and ur bound to find helpful info, especially in the Tech section. wish u luck w/ diagnosing it. as far as the air filter for ur carb, didnt ur weber come w/ one? try ur local parts store, eBay, or some machine shops sell them too.

[pennyman1]

Use a 5-7 PSI electric fuel pump mounted back by the tank after the fuel filter. There are threads on here that detail how to hook up the pump plumbing and electrical connections. Look on ebay to find the tall air filter you are looking for - it is available for the rectangular filter housing or the oval one I have on Geronimo.

[rgg687]

my truck didnt have a fuel filter at all till i put one on so i need a 5 to 7 psi pump ok do u know what the stock pump puts out

[pennyman1]

Stock pump puts out 9-13 psi and will push excess fuel through the carb uncontrolled.

[tanzytinkerz]

The weber carb you have will most likely only recommend 2psi as mine did on my 84. i put on a pressure regulator like 5 inches from the carb after the fuel filter(to keep the regulator clean from gunk) and it mellowed down the dieseling tremundously. The pressure still builds up ever so often and the needles in the float in these webers get dirty quick. a regulator helps majorly though.

[camoit]

Also search the archive. AKA old board on how to preform a "lean drop" Or this board. It's been a while since it was looked for. I need to put it in the tech section. OH and it's also in the manual section. look for the UTI training manuals. There is a how to on it in there. It's all the same process.

[rgg687]

mine sugests 5 to 7 psi but it still desiels a little

[ikeepzitclean]

Stock pump puts out 9-13 psi and will push excess fuel through the carb uncontrolled.

can a FP regulator be helpful w/ a stock pump too? or just w/ an aftermarket one.

[pennyman1]

Unless it is a feedback regulator it will blow out the pump quickly from the back pressure. Think of it as hydrolock - it is pumping against uncompressible liquid.

[ikeepzitclean]

mostly only FI systems have FP regulators, right? i dont think carb'd motors do.

also, im guessing that electric fuel pump could have MPG advantages too as opposed to the stock one.

[pennyman1]

Stock carb systems don't have fp regs, but most aftermarket ones do. Its better to have more pressure and cut it back with a reg, than have marginal pressure and see it drop at WOT.

[rgg687]

well ive totally gotten rid of the stock fuel pump i have put a 4-7 psi fuel pump on it and i have made the plug where the fuel pump was it has helped alot on gas having it gone but the main question i have is ive burnt through three clutches in the past year and its a oem clutch the cluch always goes out on the trany side with over half of the pad left on the engine side im about to put my 4 clutch in it but i want to put a center force clutch in it but im not sure if the clutch comes with the throw out bearing if any one has put a center force clutch in let me know thanks

[camoit]

For the engine run on problem you need to run a lean drop. You can find that here. http://www.mightyram50.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=102&t=1264&p=8692&hilit=lean+drop#p8692 see the last post. As for the clutch it sounds like the disk is sticking on the input shaft from the wear on the splines.

[pennyman1]

The center force clutch does come with the throwout bearing, but the one I got with mine was the wrong one, so I used a factory one. That was over 20 years ago, so it should be right. Don't use a 4 puck - too rough for the street.

[rgg687]

ok good to know by the way the engine I got from napa went to shit on me I have less then 3 thousand miles on it and its pissing oil out of all four cilinders any easy fixes if not do any of you know the warranty # for nappa ironclade

[rgg687]

well I have another question for u guys I need to figure out what fuel line is coming from the fuel filter to the engine bay so I can hook it up correctly

[rgg687]

I finally figured out what it was the fuel pump was pushing fuel past the needle in the carb

[geezer101]

Woah, that's a long time between posts. Welcome back :hi: