"Mitsy" '86 Repairs, Renew, Rebuild, Replace

[BradMph]

This photo taken between 1987 - 1989 and after installing many extras. The truck was originally purchased bone stock with a leather vinyl snap bed cover and was it. I went crazy on it as you can see here. Just before heading to South California Mini-Truck Super Nationals in Narrows Park. We had the time of our lives.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2_A8pyxnmw&feature=youtu.be

The Automobile
A car is a part of culture because we spend a significant amount of time in our lives behind the steering wheel. We spend endless hours in traffic jams; we like to eat in a car, like to listen to music and so on. Our industry has made a great number of legendary cars and is a true argument that is an essential part of our lives. You know, psychologists claim that our style of driving shows some striking resemblance of our character, and you know it is true. A car is more than a piece of a metal, it has become a social phenomenon. Have you ever noticed that we often try to talk to our cars as if they were a human?

My '86 Mitsubishi "Mitsy"
A beginning of a never ending list of past & future repairs. I am figuring it will be a good idea to start documenting/logging all information so I can look back and use it when needed again. Some people say that they have too much on their mind and forgot things, but we all know the first thing that goes is the mind and I'm not ready to admit it just yet..
The vehicle for this thread information
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/album.php?albumid=155

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=11294&d=1411073574

30+ years and a mountain of receipts
I recently garaged the truck due to some engine issues and thought I could fix the problem with a bandage and continue on as usual, but not this time. The truck began running bad one day as I was accelerating and she started bucking and then idling rough, you know the scenario. After a little bit it stopped, but I had that feeling it wasn't over. I brought the truck home, checked the usual and nothing looked out of place and I made some minor fixes that just didn't seem to help this time.
I used my other transportation for a few days and hoped the magic mechanic elves would come fix the truck while I was not using her, but I was wrong. I think the elves have left to go work for Keebler after so many years. Anyway after a few days, I jumped back in truck and it ran bad, gutless, popping out carb, electrical started acting strange, smell of fuel in the oil, things were bad. In addition, the poor truck has been through the effects of frozen ice forcing it's self into any cracks it can find during winter, to 90+ degree temps in the summer, it was time to do some major repairs.
I decided it was time to do the 4 "R's" for the truck and go through everything to make many overdue repairs that I have put off for so too long.

I call it...Repairs, Renewing, Rebuilding, Replacing

I'll update thread here with the repairs while she has been parked in garage for the major repairs and then continue on as I make other updates and modifications. I have a feeling this is going to be a never-ending story, but I'm not complaining.

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Truck Photos Have Been Featured on Following Websites
-Castrol Oil.com
-Tire Rack.com
-Pierce Manifolds.com
-Raceline Central.com
-Car Domain.com
-Tire-size-conversion.com
and more...



http://s07.flagcounter.com/count/ftFl/bg_000000/txt_FFFFFF/border_858585/columns_3/maxflags_250/viewers_Country+Counter/labels_0/pageviews_0/flags_0/percent_0/ (http://info.flagcounter.com/ftFl)

[BradMph]

Well, got the head pulled tonight and also did some comparison from 1st gen and 2nd gen intake manifolds.

To bring you up to date on the work so far, here is a list of what has been done while parked in my garage.

Completed
* Complete rebuild of the 2.0L G63B
* Weber pre-installed prior to this work
* Replaced stock 45 amp alternator with a 100amp Starion/Conquest alternator.
* Installed Carter low pressure fuel pump, cockpit light trigger switch, replaced all rubber fuel lines, added fuel filter before weber carb.
* Installed a Holley fuel regulator with an attached mini gauge in engine bay.
* Added fuse block for 5 auxiliary fuses in engine bay, along with 3 re-wired relays. (removed the connector pile-up on positive post of battery)
* Replaced both timing belts, lower crank sprocket and crank timing plate.
* Had stock cam re-ground by Schnieder Race Cams.
* Replaced Distributor vacuum advance diaphragm and had distributor re-curved to the race cam.
* Adjusted carb float levels and installed the next larger mixture jets.
* Replaced center support bearing and all universal joints with seals.
* Changed fluids in differential, radiator, trany w/new tail shaft seal.
* Installed vacuum gauge in cockpit.
* Installed a D50 console, removed the stock gauges and installed 2 aftermarket gauges. Oil pressure/Volt oil
* Installed 2nd gen digital clock into D50 console.
* Removed all the aged added accessory wiring that was not being used, rewired existing accessories with thicker gauge and relays.
* Installed halogen driving lights.
* Removed sunroof, resealed & reinstalled.
* Lubed every knuckle, tie-rod end & ball joint.
* Installed a short non-cat exhaust with magnaflow 1 in and 2 out muffler, dumps just shy of rear axel.
* Replaced clutch with a F1 racing clutch with pilot bearing and throw out.
* Replaced the square original K&N Weber air filter to the dome shaped sponge filter
* Every last bit of factory smog installed plumbing has been removed.
* Electric fan w/adjustable temperature controlled relay- preinstalled prior to work.
* Installed an Oil catch can inline with PCV and a air vent filter on valve cover inlet.
* Installed a Weber carb hi-rise base adapter.
* Replaced the Gen 1 intake manifold with the 2nd manifold, cut the carb bridge and removed metal ring, sealed EGR cavity.
* Replace rear shocks to KYB's and now all shocks are matched.
* Installed an adjustable timing cam sprocket.
* Installed 110 volt block thermal heater
* Replace stock hood with a modified cowl Induction version.
* Replaced dash stock color lights to red color.
* Replace entire front headlight assemblies to the duel quad D50 headlight version w/new grill. (pre-installed)
* Installed hydraulic hood shocks, removed hood stay rod.

Here is the comparison of a 1st gen and 2nd gen intake manifold
-The 2nd gen intake has smoother ports, way less casting bumps then a 1st gen.
-2nd gen feels lighter then the 1st gen.
-1st gen intake tubes leading to head from carb are shaped like a horseshoe with basically the same diameter from head to carb, while the
2nd gen tubes are shaped sort of like a letter "M" with what looks like a tube compression as the tubes are reduced from the 2 barrel holes on intake.
-There is also a triangular area on gen2 that you can see thru the intake from above. The 1st gen casting are filled in on this area.
-To add, the EGR tube holes leading to the exhaust #4 port are all stuffed up with carbon suet as usual with these trucks.
-Grab a coat hanger and scrape these out carefully and watch all the crap that comes out of them.
-The thermostat housing tube drops into the air tube on the 2nd gen and into base under carb on gen1 intake.
-There are a couple other little things like an extra smog valve on bottom of 2nd gen and another sensor hole near water temp sensor under thermostat.
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(click on any images on this thread to expand their viewing)

Pulled intake and assembly attached off
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Exhaust port getting raw fueled & Un-burnt fuel beginning to self clean my valves
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This is what 275k miles looks like on cylinder walls, you can see we have a little wrist pin wobble scuffing.
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More tomorrow

[BradMph]

Got the motor pulled and what a mess. Got some power washing to do I guess. Shop is picking up motor tomorrow at 9:30am at my house and are dismantling it right away. They will be giving me a list of what they will need. I already ordered a full gasket set and brass freeze plugs and will order the ARP bolt kit today.
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After pulling the motor, the transmission about dropped to the ground. Going to replace trany mount as well since it never has been done. I'm pretty sure it was torn. I ended up shoving a board under trany to keep it from causing problems with the new seal.
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Here is the oil clod of an engine which will be all spic N span when it returns from the shop. Going to make them earn their money on this rebuild
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Here are a couple photos of the truck. Original paint and replacing my tonneau cover during spare time. Replaced all the snaps already and bought new material and edging. I have to wait for hot days to stretch fit the cover or it will never fit and then not unsnap it for about a week so it can adjust to the stretching.
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The shop will probably have the motor for a while and install parts as they arrive. I'll try to take some photos of the rebuild as I drop parts off for them. Mean while I need to locate a power washer and a giant scrub brush.

[Fordubishi]

well I see the problem with your engine its missing 1/2 its cylinders :P

[parrell456]

I love this truck. You'd die if you saw my motor... yours looks awesome and it isn't even done yet!

-RHP

[BradMph]

lol Fordubushi, and I agree 100% with you, it is missing and someday perhaps I will take a drive to your place and get those other 4 cylinders installed. :lmao:

Thank You also parrell456 :worship:

[BradMph]

Dropped the block off today and decided to use another machine shop. The first guy did not have the tools to do the job I felt should be done. I also asked him if I could get some documentation concerning his rebuilding specifications and this seemed to get him offensive about the build. The guy looks about 24-25 yrs old, but anyway he says if he supplied me with the measurements, he would charge me for blue printing the motor. I asked is it that hard to use a pencil that you have to charge a blue printing fee to do?
OK, I know I know,this guy must of had a lack of oxygen passing thru the birth canal because he changed gears after this. He got really upset about this simple request and made it sound like I was out of line for asking. I said it's my money, my parts, and it should be a normal routine to take notes while your performing such a job. I was staying rather calm about everything, but I noticed he wasn't, lol. He begins to go on about this little plaque on the wall he has that explains his wage for the labor and I think my butt started to itch about this time and it became more important than listening to him. Well, lol that was not funny to him and he went into a pouting and said, fine go somewhere else and get it done and then stomped off to the garage with no tools. At that time I had no one to talk to, lol...so I went down the road a 1/2 mile and found a more experienced and equipped machinist. This new guy ordered the parts while I was standing there, had his 2 man crew go out and get the engine out of the car trunk. It's raining like crazy and they bring the motor into the shop and the owner has one of them remove the clutch and timing covers and loose stuff immediately. Wow, what service...the motor will be about a week and a half which is perfect and will get all new pistons, rings, bearings, etc etc. What a blessing, I am glad I didn't have the 1st guy do this work, it would of cost more and most likely done wrong.
I did a BBB check on the place my engine is at now and I can relax finally, lol. here is their score sheet.
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[BradMph]

After good advice from forum members, I made a decision on the clutch and going to order Formula 1 Stage 1 kit. Need to get flywheel turned since there are some markings that can't be removed with a wire brush.
Presently while we wait for engine work, we are cleaning the engine bay and perhaps painting it afterwards, not sure yet. We started cleaning the area with some purple stuff I got at O'reilly's Auto Parts and by the smell of it, I think Easy Off Oven spray could of done the job too, lol. It's got that odor like when the wifey cleans the oven and it takes your breath away for a bit. It will sting if you get it on yourself too. Reading the uses on the back is interesting, cleans caked on oil, grease and grime, oil stained driveways, parts cleaner, and can be used as detergent for laundry too.

The head is getting a wire brushing then a hydro test to catch any possible leaks. I'm thinking at least one valve guide seal or guide is leaking a tiny bit into the exhaust port #3, but will check.

Going to switch intake manifolds from the original 1st gen to a better built 2nd gen that we have. Need to have some welding done on it first. I was reading somewhere on a forum that there might be a Lancer intake possibly that can be used for a swap, but need to look further on this. If you heard about this swap, I'd like to hear what you know. Sounds like an good idea if it will work.

Parts are starting to come in and we have our gaskets and brass freeze plugs 35mm. Got a carb gasket kit coming and will order clutch today.

UPDATE: Ordered clutch and got a dropped price of $95.00 Shipped, Should be here between 25th & 1st
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[BradMph]

Was tripping the internet and came across a site with mufflers, AutoAnything.com and the prices were not too bad. I started looking for a single in, duel out muffler on a magnaflow. While I was looking, I found a mistake on one of the mufflers quoted pipe sizes. So, being the honest guy I am(smerk) I thought I would let them know. I noticed a chat box for contact and figured what the heck. Opened the window and a CSR jumped into chat named Noel. Yes Noel, like the X-Mas thing. We spoke a bit and I mentioned the mistake on the site and he asked that I wait while they checked it out. Sure enough there was a mistake and it needed to be corrected. Jokingly I said, "well do I get a free muffler for finding this mistake?". Noel answered by saying, not quite, but we will give you 10% off if you like. Well, I said hell yes... I'll take that and explained that I won't be able to pay until the 3rd and he said no problem and gave me the code when I do make my purchase. This was pretty nice of them to do I guess and dropped the price of the Magnaflow XL Turbo Muffler Part #13148 with single in, duel out to a price of $55.04 shipped. So I changed my mind from a flowmaster, which I found that the magnaflow got a little better reviews on. Price was a little better as well.
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With that done, I decided a flex pipe was needed after the header and picked this up for $21.00
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Still waiting on engine from machinist and should be ready on the 3rd of July as planned. Dropped off the brass freeze plugs and my flywheel for grinding. $25 for flywheel grinding.

I have wire brushed both intake manifolds and checked the price for the heliarc on the gen 2 manifold. I will be doing the prep before the welding work since the price was not in my mind, worth it. I hope to get him down to about 50-60 bucks for all the holes filled and fixing the broken casting where the distributor bolts to. If not, I still have my stock manifold.
I am wire brushing the head now and it looks much better. I'll post some pics when it is completed.

[BradMph]

Head is finished being cleaned and is ready for install when motor completed
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Carb & Intake cleaned, Replacing accelerator pump diaphram and all carb gaskets on 28th.
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[BradMph]

Better pictures of Gen 1 & Gen 2 compared intakes.
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Ports on Gen 1 cast have a very bumpy texture.
Gen 2 are noticeably smoother
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Never noticed this angle either on the intake. I imagine it is to counter the angle the engine sits in the bay on the mounts?
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[BradMph]

Waiting for the engine from the machine shop. Cleaned up the engine bay, photo taken late at night with a flash and doesn't show detail. Took a scrub brush to the place and re-skirted the sides since the old rubber was falling off. Painted with some rust inhibitor just to be safe and then glossed with some black. Rebuilding carb while I wait since I got the parts. Had to order pressure controller for my air compressor since it leaked. I hope it shows up in next couple days. Clutch is in, but not installed. Just buying time now. I have a feeling when it's all done and put together, I'm going to be a little hesitant to start it. I'm sure everyone has that moment like, did I do everything right, is everything tight, my settings set. Head bolts installed correctly, sort of eats at you I guess until you turn the key.
I am deciding on engine color, nothing fancy. I know a red block with a silver head and black headers would look clean, but I probably will go with a black block so dirt doesn't show. Do the head with a grey and pulleys in red. The headers would be sort of a waist to paint, but I may try that 2000 degree paint in a silver or match the head. I'll probably wrap them after the paint cooks. I know those bastards will get things hot under the hood and It is a main concern to keep things from melting.
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[Acuta73]

May I suggest a block color that actually shows oil leaks? There's a lot of Chrysler/Chevy orange engines here for a reason. It looks decent and shows leaks. Yeah, you gotta clean it more often, but there's always a trade-off.

NaviStar/Cummins Red or the like will look great, and show leaks...but more maintenance.

Just my .02

Just make a checklist for final assembly, and follow it. You will stress less. But I agree, turning the key for the first time on a fresh build has a high pucker factor.

[LSR Mike]

May I suggest..

http://mmeierle.com/images/Max/Red%20Engine/engine%20assycomplete%20pass%202.jpg

http://mmeierle.com/images/Max/Red%20Engine/engine%20assyscatter%20shield%202.jpg

[recian]

Mike I think you look for opportunities to show off your shiny engine :D I'm thinking of going with hemi orange when I do my diesel engine.

[mopar_ja]

Is that a custom built scatter shield?

[BradMph]

Thanks Acuta73, I could always use suggestions, I know the black hides leaks too. Maybe a lighter gray in between the header color and black. I like when the blocks are the color of the vehicle it sits in. It looks like it belongs there when it matches I'm not into oranges and yellows that much, those are great American Car colors though. Actually my Celica I owned had a bright yellow block and it looked great. I like red, but a darker shade of the truck's California Red.
I picked up some 2000 degree ceramic paint yesterday and painted header. Looks just like a Ceramic coated header...for now. I noticed on the paint can it says that its intermittent high temp resistant. Just as long as it's not too heavily painted, it should last long enough to take a snap shot. lol The head will be painted this silver ceramic color also.
I'm not sure if I will go with the bright red color Mike has there, Looks like it needs to be in a fire engine or Santa Claus's sleigh. :lmao:
Mike, you definitely know how to detail those details bud. Damn that motor is friggin crispy clean and shiny. Looks good enough to be put up on the mantle in the house. What do you do when you hit your first mud puddle after all that work?. When I get ready for an engine swap, I know where I'm headed. I noticed the electric lift you have there also, Nice.

Well the schedule for my engine to be finished is delayed to next Friday. I expected it since this shop is so busy. Usually you can tell how good a business is by how busy they are. They are very busy, but the owner always has a little time to give me honest details. It's nice to walk thru the shop and see what they have. No one is standing around and they are all polite.
They turned the flywheel and didn't charge me for it because of the added time to the rebuild. Looks perfect...
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that is the new F1 clutch stuff also.

Here is the header with the ceramic paint. My Magnaflow muffler has been ordered from AutoAnything and is OTW here. They are going to send me a signed Mario Andretti Racing poster also since you get one for a limited time if you order anything from Magnaflow. lol we'll see if it shows up.
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Carb is all rebuilt and finished. Since I have this extra time now, I am going to take head apart, check... then lap the valves, then put new valve guide seals in.
Took my MR2 to be smog checked yesterday. Friggin flunked the idle HC test. Seems strange since this is the last year it will have to do this. I'm pretty sure I will need to splice in a Cat to pass the next try. It re-test will be free, but the papers from a AES check station won't be. They can get $150 from me before they will waive another failed test, bastages. Here are my readings.

Cruise Results
LIMIT / TEST RESULTS
RPM LIMIT 2750

HC(ppm) 400 / Tested @ 225 PASSED @ 2660 rpms
CO(%) 3.0 / Tested @ 1.07 PASSED @ 2660 rpms
CO+CO2(%) NA / Tested @ 13.71 @ 2660 rpms
O2(%) NA / Tested @ 6.4 @ 2660 rpms



Idle Results
LIMIT / TEST RESULTS
RPM LIMIT 1100

HC(ppm) 400 / Tested @ 600 FAILED @ 660 rpms
CO(%) 3.0 / Tested @ 1.43 PASSED @ 660 rpms
CO+CO2(%) NA / Tested @ 11.09 @ 660 rpms
O2(%) NA / Tested @ 6.4 @ 660 rpms

[BradMph]

Grinded and lapped in all the valves today and they looked surprisingly nice before I started. Though now they all have a nice seal and with new valve guide seals. Checked oilers and they looked good also, but ran wire through the rocker oilers to be sure they are clean. All the valves were straight with hardly any visible wear as I checked them, but the place that I got the head from a few years back had the rocker assembly bushings torqued down extremely tight. This created some fine grooves on the center rocker assembly bushing and a little on the cam. I'll run some 1200 grit on the high spots of the rocker assembly bushing and then spin the cam to smooth the matching grooves. I was planning on sending the cam to Oregon next month anyway to have some work done to help benefit from the weber, plus the header and new exhaust that is going to be installed. In hopes to squeeze a couple more horses out of this tear down.
I didn't want to buy a valve spring compressor for a one time use, so I went to O'Reilly's Auto and got a free loaner tool. It looked like this...
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As I was working along nicely, lol...one of the exhaust springs and cap decided to exit the tool. The spring flew into the garage door and the cap went the opposite way into the wall. Sort of made me laugh as I was thinking, "I am sure glad it wasn't a strut spring". The tools actually work well for the job and I couldn't beat the price for using it. Free!

[camoit]

You'd die if you saw my motor...

Then start killing us off, I'm starting to think he pushes his truck everywhere to take pictures of it.

[BradMph]

Got my Magnaflow Muffler the other day and doesn't it look Purdy?
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Called the shop day before yesterday on the motor and it might be ready today. He had cranked finished and block bored and was waiting for pistons and rings from LA. It's getting close and the truck is all ready for the install. I will have to put all the seals in the engine and paint it before it gets the rest of the stuff put on. I'll probably head to muffler shop sometime today and see if they can bend header down an inch or two. I'm sure I will get the normal muffler shop whining they do when you ask for custom work. It seems that they always think of all the negatives of the job instead of the basics. It's all about money and this is their sales pitch to squeeze ever dime from you. Once they start doing that I just look at the next muffler shop down the street and that usually gets them a little more motivated, lol. Tell me that it can't be done? gimme the torch I'll do it for you, lol. Anyway, we'll be a little busy today I hope.

[BradMph]

Today was a great day!
I got my motor back from the machinist and it looks perfect. Put it on the engine stand and will start the process of going over all their work. I will be checking the torque settings they used and following up on each bolt and nut to reassure nothing was missed during the rebuild. All surfaces have been ground flat and new bearings placed in where required. The balance shaft needs to be installed back in, also the oil pump and plates. The seals that were not removed or installed for the build will be completed by me. I need to clean some gaskets off a few pieces because these items were not part of the rebuild. The shop was nice enough to remove all the extra items I left on motor and they cleaned a painted the parts that come painted from factory. The shop did forget to box my water pump up with the rest of the parts and they were notified. I will pick it up in morning.
Tomorrow I will start taking photos of the reconstruction steps through the build and install back into truck. It will take time because I do not want to miss one step and pay for it later. I still need to have header modified so it fits under floor board without hitting it.
I'm going to contact Delta Cam (Jon Bodwell) here in Washington for a cam upgrade and get some work done on this. I just can't stick the cam back in the engine with even the slightest groove scored on it like I found, after all this work been done. I'll see what they recommend is best.
Anyway, I'll post some images up tomorrow.

[BradMph]

Ok, here are some images of block. All shiny and new, actually it looks better then when it was brand new!
Some are fuzzy, but there will be more later. I got all the rest of my parts. He had more then I thought, lol. Now I think I can start to puzzle this thing back together.
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[BradMph]

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When I picked up the block from the machinist, they removed the balance shafts. The left balance shaft was kept installed on the front case, so this is not an issue on reinstalling. In one manual it says to repack the oil pump gears with petroleum jelly before installation, so this is one question I have.

The next is...On the right silent shaft. After sliding the shaft into the block, the fit is good but what keeps this shaft centered in the block housing. There doesn't seem to be a thrust plate of any kind on either side of the shaft. What keeps the shaft from shifting into the block and hitting the back inside of the inner block and keep the belt gear from hitting the plate as the shaft spins? Is there a locking nut that maintains the shafts position in the block I am missing?

Plate assembly with parts
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Blow up of the left balance shaft seal on plate with balance shaft installed.
It is obvious that once the shaft is in the block the seal is not in contact with the shaft and the new seal shown is exactly like the old one. The manual also does not show the gear that is suppose to be placed on the end of this shaft, but I have it as shown in the above image of parts. What keeps the gear from scoring the plate since there is no outer or inner thrust washer and what seals the oil from leaking out of this area?.
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This last image is of the oil pickup tube. Is there a "O" ring for this or is it just the gasket?
I found no "O" ring shown in the manuals, so I installed using RTV high temp silicone and the gasket that came with kit.
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[BradMph]

Went into my ASA Mitsubishi program and found the bushing that the manual doesn't show. I have seen this part in the box of stuff I got back from shop but 1st time I tried it seemed too small to slide onto shaft end. This will also be the same part that makes the seal also.
This is the bushing circled in red and the gear is shown too. Glad I have this ASA software, it shows what many manuals just don't.

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[pennyman1]

heat the bushing up in a toaster oven then slide it onto the shaft. Use gloves or pliers to handle the hot bushing.

[BradMph]

Thanks Pennyman, we got it to fit.
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Tonight we install intake, rear plates and I hope the clutch. I want to aim for tomorrow install back into truck.

[BradMph]

Got a lot done tonight, but didn't get the clutch installed. No big deal that will only take 45 minutes. Got to get that header down to the muffler shop though. Been procrastinating, but I can't anymore. Soon as header goes on...I'm going to drive it uncapped to muffler shop to have the magnaflow welded on. Should sound pretty good with duel out.
Here are some more images of all sides so far. I hope it stays this clean for a little while after I install it in the truck.
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[BradMph]

Got bored and made this from my documenting video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lBUExqzV9PM

[BradMph]

Sent the header to muffler guys yesterday and picked it up today all fixed. They decided not to bend the #2 and 3 pipe, but to remove the old one and replace it with another piece to specs that I asked for. Here is a before and after of the work.
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They said when I get the truck running to bring it down to have the exhaust finished which they quoted $100 to install my muffler and put the duel exhaust tips on.

[DroppedMitsu]

Engine and header look awesome. It'll be a shame to get them dirty lol

[Rickdees]

You're moving right along and I did watch some of the video and I got bored also. lol
It looks nice and clean.

[BradMph]

lmao Rick, thanks bud I know I did too. hahahah too funny. I guess I am putting members through pain huh!. Can't stop laughing though.
Motor is in the truck, Got to install starter and plugs and header and some wires. I think I am procrastinating this startup. You all know
that twitch in your arsk you get starting a fresh engine up. I hate to compare it to what would happen if you sat on a lemon, but I'm sure it is just about the same thing.
Well, if it crashes...that old line will be heard....I COULD OF HAD A V8!

[BradMph]

Got her started tonight and it ran great. Still have to adjust valves, fix electric fan, have magnaflow muffler installed, install some new bucket seats.
First 7 minutes of rebuilt G63B

http://youtu.be/MVvZpABTk4Y

[mopar_ja]

Sounds great so far, awesome job. But do want to know why you running the vac gauge just to see or is there a future upgrade.

[camoit]

Yep,, sounds like an old tractor. :)
20 inch of vacume must be a stock cam.
You need to hook up the PCV or you will wind up with water in the oil over time.

[BradMph]

I run the vacuum gauge for engine health reasons. It can tell you many things if used correctly. The gauge I have is a basic version but it does the work it suppose to. There are other models that have colored areas on the dial face for diagnosing problems and fuel usages, timing, etc. Very simple gauge to install and has many good features to keep an eye on when your engine is running. I feel it's just as important as the oil pressure gauge in many cases. When pulling a trailer it can show how hard your vehicle is working to pull the trailer, even on a flat surface compared to driving with no trailer. Mine was reading a little low in the video. When the engine has seated itself and put some wear in the new parts it should end up being right at 21 and no fluctuations. Before the rebuild the truck symptoms were #2 & #3 shown below. Along with harder starting and what not. #3 confirmed my issues for my rebuild.
An engine is just a big air pump anyway and what else to tell you what your pump is doing then a vacuum gauge.


CHART OF VACUUM READINGS
Indication of Engine Condition

Smooth and steady idle
(800 to 1200 RPM) Between 17 to 21 inches Engine is in Good Condition, but perform next test to be sure.

1) Open and close throttle quickly Jumps from 2 to about 25 inches Engine is in Good Condition.
2) Smooth and steady idle Steady, but lower than normal reading Worn rings, but perform next test to be sure.
3) Open and close throttle quickly Jumps from 0 to 22 inches Confirms worn rings.
4) Steady idle Intermittent dropping back 3 or 5 divisions and returns to normal Sticky Valves.
If injection of penetrating oil into intake manifold temporarily stops pointer from dropping back, it's certain the valves are sticking.
5) Steady 3000 RPM Pointer fluctuates rapidly, faster engine speed causes more pointer swing, Weak valve springs.
6) Steady idle Fast fluctuation between 14 to 19 points Worn intake valve stem guides. Excessive pointer vibration at all speeds indicates a leaky head gasket.
7) Steady idle Constant drop Burnt valve or insufficient tappet clearance holding valve partly open or a spark plug occasionally miss firing.
8) Steady idle Steady 8 to 14 inches Incorrect valve timing. It must also be remembered that vacuum leaks and/or poor compression can result in a low vacuum reading.
9) Steady idle Steady 14 to 16 inches Incorrect ignition timing.
10) Steady idle Drifting from 14 to 16 inches Plug gaps too close or points not synchronized..
11) Steady idle Drifting 5 to 19 inches Compression leak between cylinders.
12) Steady idle Steady below 5 inches Leaky manifold or carburetor gasket, or stuck manifold heat control valve.
13) Steady idle Floats slowly between 12 and 16 inches Carburetor out of adjustment.
14) Blipping engine speed Quick drop to zero then return to normal reading Muffler is clear.
15) Blipping engine speed Slow drop of pointer then slow return to normal reading Muffler or Cat is choked or blocked.

[BradMph]

Yep,, sounds like an old tractor. :)
20 inch of vacume must be a stock cam.
You need to hook up the PCV or you will wind up with water in the oil over time.

Going to go with oil catch can most likely Camoit. Picks up all the water vapors into canister and stops throwing oil vapor into the cylinders and valves getting them crusty. The PCV valve hose coming out the side of valve cover is still hooked up to intake manifold as it was stock. I just filtered the other side for temporary which can leave moisture inside like you said. The truck doesn't seem to catch much water like my MR2. The MR2 catch can catches much more water then oil since the PCV is just an open tube and no ball check inside.
The cam is being a little harder to locate at this time. Oregon Cam grinders only have a stock grind cams for mine, Delta Cam needs to be called because they don't answer email apparently and Cam Quest has a few grinds, but there for the twin cam 4G63 w/hyd lifter. Mine is G63B with adjustable flat tappet, no hyd lifters. Comp has a grind that pulls well in all RPMs and fits stock engines w/ or w/o a turbo. Though, I also don't want to pay out the nose for the cam either which some cam grinders think you should do.

[BradMph]

Getting muffler installed Aug 2nd 8:00am.
Also think I might of found a drip at the new rear main seal. Not quite sure if it is residual oil from build or spun the seal. Anyway, not a hard fix to repair now that everything is attached. Few trany bolts and motor mount bolts to separate the motor. Everything else looks promising, no water leaks or intake and exhaust leaks.

[BradMph]

Got the muffler installed and it has the tone of a V6. The shop did a nice job running off the header, but not welded to them. They inserted pipe over header and slid it pretty far inside. Then installed a locking mount so the pipe has no chance to vibrate loose or away from header. They moved the flex down a little farther and made a short duel dump just short of the rear axel. So my ass does not vibrate, but there is more throaty sound from the truck. Idle is quiet and throttle up is nice and strong sounding. Far from Rice Rocketry and no raspy cheap noise at all. Decelerations are where the head turning sound is strongest. Though the Magnaflow XL Turbo Muffler is a louder muffler, I put most of the sound increase on the header itself. I will run some video showing the install and idle, revs, and then take you for a short ride. I hope a flip camera can pick up the gut feeling it gives while driving.

[BradMph]

A slow and easy drive with new muffler and header

http://youtu.be/46-PNRm7OmA

I have to restrain myself from hard stops and starts. The better you treat your break in, the longer it will last.

[mopar_ja]

Nice, sounds really good! you should see mine, I pieced it together from oreilly stuff so I got like 4 joints exhaust blows directly on the rear axle kind of acts like a diffuser.

[Fordubishi]

Sounds good, but you probably will get tired of the drone under the box at 60Mph. My old system was like that and after a while the exhaust bouncing off the road and resonating under the box was annoying as hell. Easy fix if you get sick of it, just get some rear tubes made up to go over the axle and dump outside the box.

[BradMph]

I am a little weary of the drone sound. I have not put it on the freeway yet and it has so many different tones as I drive it. I'm sure it will be nice to listen to for a while and I hope to get use to as time goes. It has such a beautiful tone from how it use to sound. Vibration is no problem since my hangers are all rubber mounted and it doesn't drown out my stereo at all, like my MR2 can do since the motor is about a foot away. The MR2 has a Pro AMA muffler on it which gives it a distinct low beefy tone that sounds like it has a bucket full of balls under the engine cover. I'm just going to have to see what kind of harmonics I get from it and if it does become a problem it won't be hard to change out the tips and add a couple feet. My tonneau cover will help a lot to keep the bed from creating a hollow drone sound like a speaker, but I'll just have to find out how much I can endure as time goes on.

[Rickdees]

It certainly didn't take you long to rebuild and put her back on the road, sounds nice and fresh.
I just changed my exhaust to dump out behind the right rear tire, my drive way "up" to my garage is gravel and quite dusty.
I'd wash it, dry it, drive it for 10 minutes then park it back in the garage and it's dirty again. The two things I dislike is automotive wiring and gravel driveways.
Take note: when you notice you're yelling at the spouse or a friend next to you on the freeway while the stereo is off. That's the drone sound
Fordubishi and I don't miss. Uh yeah your header must have worked out good, obviously. more ground clearance?

[BradMph]

Yes, the muffler guy is a lifetime muffler man almost ready to retire and he noticed in his muffler manual the pipe was to go under the round frame support. He went over it and gave me a ton of room. I still have this habit though of rolling over bumps in a way to protect the old pipe, but I don't hear it clang it anymore. :) No more speed bumping on the transition of the pipe as it curved under the truck from the engine compartment. I had more repair welds done there then anything, but it is finally fixed right.
The motor has been great. There is not a drone where I can't communicate with a passenger comfortably with stereo on. It just has a low toned sound that could possibly become attractive to a bored highway patrol. I'm waiting for the first one to stop me to see why it sounds this way. I drive now like my parents did when I was growing up, so there is no reason to be bothered by the man. I have respectfully not been pulled over for a thing in the past 11 years now.(knock on wood, I surprise myself sometimes).
I am chasing an oil leak now and every time I check for it, it relocates. I definitely think my rear main seal is leaking which isn't bad to replace. I brain faded and forgot that special stuff that was suppose to be placed on the crank shaft seal plate piece. The one with the hole placed in it for bottom placement. Then my oem fuel pump block plate started leaking. Fixed that, then the valve cover gasket some how got folded over on the same side the first leak dripped on. So, I fixed that tonight, along with new wires, oil catch can, fuel filter. While working I noticed near oil filter a drip starting to collect. Silicone may fix this one though. The last bug I have is a sound that happens about mid 1st gear into 2nd and stops in 3rd gear. It sounds just like a loose bolt on the exhaust pipe. If I push in clutch and coast, or take out of gear it still makes the sound with no change. So I think I can rule out driveline. It made me think that a spring on the clutch plate was loosen somehow, but again the clutching has no effect on this sound. I'm going to lift truck rear and run the gears and see if I can capture the location to fix it. The rear main seal will be done last since it is not pouring out, but it does leave an impression of an old Harley Davidson on my driveway every time I stop.
Here is the latest images of the engine bay...
635363546355

[mopar_ja]

Oh, that's it pull the motor do a full rebuild, LOL.

[steen3rddensity]

wow wow wow. looks and sounds great man! i still need to do my exhaust up! thanks for posting your build and thanks again for finding the header. hope my header installation helped out how you modified yours!

[BradMph]

wow wow wow. looks and sounds great man! i still need to do my exhaust up! thanks for posting your build and thanks again for finding the header. hope my header installation helped out how you modified yours!

Yes, yours helped a lot. Even though I had the one pipe replaced with one that accommodated the change from over and under to side by side, it still had to be heated and bent a little more for the muffler guys to slide the pipe over the header end. It no longer hits the floorboard and is about an inch away, enough for my heat shield to be placed back on.

[BradMph]

Anyone ever see a build of an Ultra Short Bed done before?
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=6361&d=1376123595
I'm not doing one, just thought it would be a weird thing to see.

[BradMph]

After checking right rear brakes for possibly not retracting correctly and causing a sticking brake feel, I did not see anything out of ordinary. I cleaned entire area and drum, removed self adjusters and freed them up to do their job better. I did notice there was a sticky residue on inside of drum and a little on brake shoes. It also was on the emergency brake self adjuster in the brake area only. Sooo, I think I have a wheel bearing seizing up. This would cause the sound also that I described about loose bolt on muffler. Wheel bearings will make clicking sounds when their time is up. I'll get one ordered and send it to my machinest to be pressed when I get one. If this is what the problem is.

[BradMph]

What a pain in the arsk pulling the axel out of these 86 trucks. I bought a bearing for the passenger side axel and after removing the E-brake cable from the truck so I could pull axel I finally got it out. I managed to get the slotted retainer bolt and locking washer off the bearing. Now I got to figure out how to press bearing off. The manual shows to use a flat plate with holes lined up to fit the back plate of the drum housing and use 2 bolts to work the bearing off the axel, but it doesn't make sense how the plate is going to stay put on the axel. Then the manual says I have to shim the damn thing too when reinstalling. Never had so much BS to do when replacing a rear wheel bearing like this. I think I'll just drop it on my machinest work bench first thing in the morning and let them do the press work. I don't have the tool for this, though a hydraulic jack could make an attempt.
He'll get an axel and the brake shoe housing still attached with an e-brake cable dragging along.:lmao:

[BradMph]

I did a bunch of research on this bearing stuff and evidently there is a tool to remove the bearing from the 1st gen axel bearing housing. The part number is MB990787-A and before you rush out and buy one, don't!. All the part is, is a plate about 4x6 with a hole in the center for the axel to fit through. I decided to price these things and they are over $100. This has got to be a mistake I thought at first, but no it's true. This simple little plate (tool) slides over the axel as it stays attached to the brake housing. But, before you slide it on you have to remove the bearing lock washer, nut and washer, then replace the locking nut back onto the axel and thread it on a few turns. Place the plate onto the axel against this nut and thread a couple bolts onto the brake assembly back plate studs. The plate puts pressure against the bearing as you tighten the 2 bolts onto the back plate studs. You tighten them evenly of course to slowly push the axel shaft and bearings through the bearing housing. It's a pretty corny way to release the axel from the brake assembly, but that's how the manual explained it. You also are not suppose to remove the E-brake cable from the brake assembly either, so you have to remove the E cable atleast on one side of the vehicle to remove the axel from the vehicle. It is a process that is definitely more work then it should be compared to all the other wheel bearings I have replaced in the past.
I had to remove the vehicle's hydraulic brake line from brake assembly, as well as E-brake cable out of vehicle, I took a dremel and started cutting the bearings off the axel. Grinded a seem in the race and broke it off also. This allowed the axel to finally be separated from the brake housing assembly. I sent all the parts to a wheel professional since my machinest specializes in engine work only. I printed the procedures out for this place so they wouldn't install the bearings and seal, etc. wrong. Not every shop carries manuals for our old trucks, so supplying the directions to the place prior to the work gives you a better chance to get it done correctly. I pick the part up tomorrow morning and will reinstall after.
You may think your done at this point, but your not.
There is one thing, well actually more then one, that must be done to the reinstall axel when your ready to place the axel back in the truck. The first time you install axel, be careful not to damage your new seals because the axel is only going in to check the tolerance distance between the brake housing and bearing assembly. You check this by placing a typical gap tool between the 2 parts I mentioned and you have to do this before you reinstall any shims that were removed during the disassembly. So save your parts and try not to damage anything as you first remove the axel. There is a very thin O-ring in the housing also that can be overlooked, so be sure you read the steps very carefully when changing rear wheel bearings. This O-ring is very hard to see since it fits into a channel. Once you have checked the gap, you need to install a new shim the exact same size as the measurement you got when checking the gap. In addition to the shim, you need to insert a second shim as well that measures between 0.0020-0.0079in (0.5-0.20mm). This is so your wheel isn't flopping down the road as you drive.
After you have installed your shims, replaced your seals, applied silicone sealer to the 2 housings, reinstalled your E-brake cable, re-attached your hydraulic brake hose, and tightened all your bolts, you are finally able to look back at what a pain in the ass this all was. Afterwards, you will need to test drive your work and hope to god it is all done correctly.
Now, if you decide to do both sides of your vehicles rear bearings, just do this all over again on the other side.

Note: The axel bearing locknut has a final torque of 131-159ft.lbs. So you will probably need the help from a gorilla to tighten this nut to proper torque.

Not me...I'll do that side when my wheel falls off going down the road. lol.
Again this was the 1st gen procedure for replacing rear wheel bearing.
Here is an image showing the $100 tool and where it gets placed to remove the bearing. I'm sure you could make this part for about $5 and it would make things easier, but you still have to cut those parts off your axel and housing.
6402

[BradMph]

All went good with reinstall of the axel and new bearing. I had time to clean off the E-brake cables and swivels of all the years of road warrior driving. Also properly adjusted them and what a difference that has made. My hand E-brake no longer travels as far as it did. I maybe go about 4-5 clicks now. The axel bearing seems to have corrected the very stiff rotating of the wheel. I also have not heard the loose bolt sounds I was experiencing before. While under the truck I also repacked the U-joints and center support bearing and sprayed oil cleaner on a couple needed areas. I notice on the center U-joint that the cap has a little bit of play in the socket. I added it on my things to do list. I'm still pending a rear main seal replacement also, but I have the new parts and the anaerobic gasket sealer needed for the fix. Ever since I RTV'd the plate where the OEM fuel pump was and valve cover gasket resealed, the oil drip has almost stopped completely. It is maybe leaving a drop or two over night now.
It's almost time for the first oil change which will be done in the next few days.

[BradMph]

Truck is running great, very happy with everything so far. The bug fixing is also going well, I'm still keeping an eye on real main seal. It will leave a 4in x 4in shiny spot on cement over the course of a day or two. I hope to change out seal and gasket when I do next oil change.
The exhaust is beginning to be a little loud for me and I think Rick's setup with the pipes continued over axel and out the sides after the rear tires is going to have to be done. Back in the day the loud exhaust wouldn't bother me, but I think it would sound even better, as well as quieter to run them as mentioned above.
The truck pulls the boat much better now. I need some more low end torque though to get the truck out of hole faster. Once it hits about 2800-3000rpms, the power increase is noticeably better. Pulls great on freeway entrance. I will check MPG on my next fill up, certainly curious if it got better from the 24MPG it had before rebuild.

[BradMph]

Changed oil for second time since rebuild. Put in the good old Castrol Oil again and a big bottle of Zinc. The truck is doing very good and no complaints at this time. I hope to hit the wrecking yard in the next few days and make a haul of those hard to find parts.

Here are our wrecking yards. Both are owned by the same person and his motto is, "sell it as cheap as possible" lol.

The top image is probably the biggest yard in the country and would take more then a day to walk through. The bottom image is their new place about 3 miles away and is now full of cars. Google needs to update their satellite images obviously.
6476

[ikeepzitclean]

great job on the build and u got her back on the road quickly. looks great!
btw, when I read about ur oil leak after the fresh rebuilt, I realized I wasn't alone w/ this issue.. I have 2 leaks now and part of the reason why I haven't put my shield back on (the one bolted to the frame, it's in front of the oil pan). A few days after I got the truck running I noticed a leak up by the oil pump case and kinda trickles down the timing cover in the area around the crank pulley and drips down (maybe front seal?). Then there's a smaller leak between tranny and block (rear main seal?). Camoit helped me w/ installing the Balance Shaft Elimination kit on my rebuild, so there's no shafts in there..maybe one of those plugs on front case is the source of the leak? idk, nvr had a chance to look at it.

not like I can fix it anytime soon..for now I just check the oil and level is consistent. :grinno: anyway, any update on the leaks yours had?

[BradMph]

great job on the build and u got her back on the road quickly. looks great!
btw, when I read about ur oil leak after the fresh rebuilt, I realized I wasn't alone w/ this issue.. I have 2 leaks now and part of the reason why I haven't put my shield back on (the one bolted to the frame, it's in front of the oil pan). A few days after I got the truck running I noticed a leak up by the oil pump case and kinda trickles down the timing cover in the area around the crank pulley and drips down (maybe front seal?). Then there's a smaller leak between tranny and block (rear main seal?). Camoit helped me w/ installing the Balance Shaft Elimination kit on my rebuild, so there's no shafts in there..maybe one of those plugs on front case is the source of the leak? idk, nvr had a chance to look at it.

not like I can fix it anytime soon..for now I just check the oil and level is consistent. :grinno: anyway, any update on the leaks yours had?

You should try and fix those leaks as soon as possible. If not, you will grow accustom to them and end up never doing them. lol. The front leaks may be able to be fixed by re-torqueing the bolts for oil pump or removing it and using the red RTV heat proof silicone. If you going to remove front covers, might as well pull the leaky seals and stuff and seal them for good. First front seal I put on ended up flipping the seal lip and popping the little seal spring off the seal. Didn't even notice the spring had popped off seal and the seal edge got folded backwards until I had to remove the seal again to do some other things. The 2nd time, I oil lubed that seal real well and the crankshaft and slid it on slow and even, finishing it up with a wood block and dead blow hammer. Make sure you use RTV where the Head, valve cover, cam journal meet too. Manual says to do it so oil doesn’t seep out.
My rear seal install, I somehow forgot to think before installing the parts. I even told myself to be sure to do it correctly, but that show you I can't even listen to myself, lol. Anyways, here is the how you can get that rear main seal to not leak. These steps should be followed on the 2.0L G63B.
6553
Notice the rear main seal parts above. You need to oil the seal and the crankshaft a lot so that the seal does not flip the seal lip over while sliding it into place. Grab both sides of the seal and turn it as your pushing it on, sort of like driving a car and turning wheel back and forth. Do it evenly until it cannot go any further. The next thing to put on is the seal ring. This will determine if you’re going to have a leak or not, if done wrong. The ring has to go on the seal and protect it. The ring also has a hole on one edge that looks like a drain hole or lube hole. This hole must be at the bottom or 6 o'clock position when placed onto engine. But, before it goes on you need to put this stuff called anaerobic sealer on the seal and the ring's lower 1/2. This special sealer glue will not dry when left in the plain air; it only hardens when everything is bolted together and creates an air tight seal from the air. This glue stuff keeps the rear main seal from spinning and leaking and seals the ring up against the main seal. This is important if you want the seal to not leak.
Like I mentioned above, I told myself to do it right, but somehow blew it off and I now have to re-separate trany from engine and redo the seal correctly with anaerobic sealer. You can use this stuff on the gasket as well when you put the final rear seal plate on. Remember to wipe off the excess sealer that is squeezed out from torqueing because it is chemically formulated to only dry when it is sealed off from the air.
This sealer can be purchased from Permatex or Loctite and auto parts stores. Permatex is usually the cheaper one to get it from. Strangely it's the same sealer repackaged and sold by both companies which Loctite owns them both.

[BradMph]

Ordered These Nitro 2 Shocks for the truck, all the way around.
6557

[thillskier]

Brad, VERY impressive build! Obvious that this was done RIGHT..it will last a very long time, I'd bet:)! Thanks for the vacuum gauge tips..I'd heard that but never saw that list:)! Printed out and in my shop manual now, for handy future reference. Smoky Yunick (and old NASCAR engine Guru and general innovator and hot rodder) said he could diagnose ANY engine issue with A VAC GAUGE, A SCREWDRIVER, PLIARS, AND ADJUSTABLE WRENCH! Wow! Those were the good old days....now computers and other "nannies"! I am finishing my A/C total rebuild today hopefully today, anyways, and I just ordered shocks Gabriel "Ultra's". (just fronts for now..budget reasons:)! Rears can wait..thinking those Delco;'s on rock auto with helper springs for 66.00 I think..Lifetime warranty, also! I'll post how these work once installed. Can you let us know? I may get different ones when I do rears by then. ANyway, beautiful work!

[BradMph]

Ordered These Nitro 2 Shocks for the truck, all the way around.
6557


OK, bad news for Belltech Shocks. After removing my present KYB KG5433 Gas-a-Just Monotube Shock PG13 I compared the Belltech 8000 to mine and I have to say, Belltechs are not the shocks for me. Just holding the 2 types of shocks in my hands I can tell the KYB's are a better built shock for my use. Belltechs are not suppose to cavitate and they do right in my hand as I compress them. They also are just a smidge stronger then OEM which a lowered truck like ours needs more strength to keep that front from smacking stoppers. I am choosing to send them back and probably just re-replace my present shocks with the same. These KYB's have been on the truck for 20+ years and feel pretty damn good still with no leaks. I think I will stick with KYB, Sorry Belltech. These are not going to work in my truck.

[Fordubishi]

Remember Brad a shock will need to be upright for awhile before they pump up fully. This is because they are laying on their sides when they are in the box and sometime transfer fluid through the valve. A few cycles on the truck and they will become stiffer.

[pennyman1]

If you want a really great lowered truck shock, get a set of tokico trekmaster - they have an internal bump stop that prevent shock damage when bottoming the shock out. I have had a set on Geronimo since the late 80's and still going strong. The ride is great - the only shocks better were the John Baker design-tuned monroe shocks - best compression - rebound tuned shock ever on a D-50. They wore out and John replaced them with the Trekmaster shocks under warranty, as monroe discontinued the style the shock was based on.

[BradMph]

Ya, but my shocks never bottom out, they might bump the frame rubber stops rarely and that happens before the shocks would over compress. These KYB's I have are pretty strong. They lasted years as well and are still in great condition. Surprise the hell out of me when I pulled the one out to replace and thought why replace these? I would of installed these Belltech shocks if they would of fit, but I would of been unhappy with them. There is no doubt that they probably do well on other trucks, but not mine. Perhaps I should of look into them harder, because they are an OEM replacement with a little more strength and I needed much more.
I need the mono tube and I like the smooth freeway ride with aggressive handle characteristics when it is required. I also am not going to dish out more then what I feel is adequate for the driving I do. The truck handles perfectly and in the pouring rain, I can roll empty at 80mph with no hydo action, though this is the tires doing this. But, I been satisfied with KYB's and they are world class and also guaranteed for life. I decided to put a matching set on the rear and they are being shipped and keep the fronts on.
I ordered the ACDelco Advantage Front Sway bar links too. The price was only about 10 bucks for a great quality brand name and the entire kit was included.
6659

[BradMph]

Remember Brad a shock will need to be upright for awhile before they pump up fully. This is because they are laying on their sides when they are in the box and sometime transfer fluid through the valve. A few cycles on the truck and they will become stiffer.

Your right Fordubishi and testing by using a hand compression is no way to test a shock since there is no way to test at the speeds the shocks move while driving, with your hand.
My KYB's were close to twice the strength though and to be told that I would have to hacksaw the metal dust cover off a pair of brand new shocks by the company rep really dissatisfied me. In addition to taking a dremel tool also to the truck??? not me, lol. This info should of been on the page where they said they fit my truck. I will give a company an honest chance, but sheesh come on this isn't quality.
By all means, these KYB's are no basic shock...the quality of their shocks are always present and the price is the way it should be. They are not high priced because of a sticker.

[BradMph]

6664
http://schneidercams.com/

Cams Grinded for our trucks @ $125.00

[BradMph]

KYB has discontinued the 1st Gen Rear Gas adjust 2wd Shocks model# KG5445. After contacting Tech Service for KYB, they have given me a new compatible shock with almost identical rates and also a little stiffer. The new model# is KG5434 which replaces the discontinued KG5445.


1ST GEN TRUCKS:

KYB
KG5434 REAR GAS ADJUST SHOCKS
20.39 EXTENDED / 12.91 COMPRESSED / 7.68 STROKE / E1 - UPPER & LOWER MOUNTS

KYB
KG5433 FRONT GAS ADJUST SHOCKS
13.78 EXTENDED / 9.06 COMPRESSED / 4.72 STROKE / S1 - UPPER & E3 (56.6X77X0) MOUNT KIT#C0272

[BradMph]

Sent my cam to the Schneider Cam grinders and should arrive there today if not there already. This place should be pretty good, I read the history about these guys and Crower and Schneider were in business together back before any of us were born, lol. Apparently they didn't get along to well and went in their own direction. Well, same direction but in different ways. They both still shave cams, but their kids are involved now.
Going to get some new valve springs and a Cam sprocket gear adjuster soon as possible.

I want to thank Rahtid for the input on this great advise and the links. I appreciate the help very much. :)

[BradMph]

Got my sway bar kit today.
6784

Sure looks different from the image shown above. I would of liked the red bushings, but for 10 bucks I can't complain. The bushings feel good and are poly. Put them on in a couple days.
Still waiting for the rear shocks to show up. It always seems that if you have a problem with something you order online and either they are out of the item at factory or whatever, it takes days to get the stuff. Well, I'll update the thread when they arrive.

______________________________________

When replacing the parts, I decided to re-use the bolts and nuts since the ACDelco bolts were a bit shorter and I was not about try and compress the bushings so the locking nuts could catch threads. I also liked the 2 nut locking system instead of the single plastic insert lock nut and re-used the original nuts as well.

I installed sway bar bushings and here are the old and new.
6790

Here you can see the years put on them. The washer has obviously been worn and this was present on both sides
6789

[ikeepzitclean]

You should try and fix those leaks as soon as possible. If not, you will grow accustom to them and end up never doing them. lol. The front leaks may be able to be fixed by re-torqueing the bolts for oil pump or removing it and using the red RTV heat proof silicone. If you going to remove front covers, might as well pull the leaky seals and stuff and seal them for good. First front seal I put on ended up flipping the seal lip and popping the little seal spring off the seal. Didn't even notice the spring had popped off seal and the seal edge got folded backwards until I had to remove the seal again to do some other things. The 2nd time, I oil lubed that seal real well and the crankshaft and slid it on slow and even, finishing it up with a wood block and dead blow hammer. Make sure you use RTV where the Head, valve cover, cam journal meet too. Manual says to do it so oil doesn’t seep out.
My rear seal install, I somehow forgot to think before installing the parts. I even told myself to be sure to do it correctly, but that show you I can't even listen to myself, lol. Anyways, here is the how you can get that rear main seal to not leak. These steps should be followed on the 2.0L G63B.
6553
Notice the rear main seal parts above. You need to oil the seal and the crankshaft a lot so that the seal does not flip the seal lip over while sliding it into place. Grab both sides of the seal and turn it as your pushing it on, sort of like driving a car and turning wheel back and forth. Do it evenly until it cannot go any further. The next thing to put on is the seal ring. This will determine if you’re going to have a leak or not, if done wrong. The ring has to go on the seal and protect it. The ring also has a hole on one edge that looks like a drain hole or lube hole. This hole must be at the bottom or 6 o'clock position when placed onto engine. But, before it goes on you need to put this stuff called anaerobic sealer on the seal and the ring's lower 1/2. This special sealer glue will not dry when left in the plain air; it only hardens when everything is bolted together and creates an air tight seal from the air. This glue stuff keeps the rear main seal from spinning and leaking and seals the ring up against the main seal. This is important if you want the seal to not leak.
Like I mentioned above, I told myself to do it right, but somehow blew it off and I now have to re-separate trany from engine and redo the seal correctly with anaerobic sealer. You can use this stuff on the gasket as well when you put the final rear seal plate on. Remember to wipe off the excess sealer that is squeezed out from torqueing because it is chemically formulated to only dry when it is sealed off from the air.
This sealer can be purchased from Permatex or Loctite and auto parts stores. Permatex is usually the cheaper one to get it from. Strangely it's the same sealer repackaged and sold by both companies which Loctite owns them both.


thanks for all the info man.. I'm gonna have to wait a few weeks before I can even try to look at it.
I'm still trying to remove some weird file extension(courtesy of them pigs in sheriff's forensics dept. when they went through my shit) off the hundreds of pix from my engine build so i can finally put my build thread together. I have step by step pix of my engine build, just have to finish recovering from my old device and converting them so I can open/view them. still have a few hundred to go. lol

and I did use RTV on the rear main seal case and gasket when I installed it.. Camoit came by and helped me install the seal and ring and I think he aligned it w/ the hole on the 6 o'clock. LOL here he is fast at work on the rear main seal:
679467956796

[ikeepzitclean]

Got my sway bar kit today.
6784

Sure looks different from the image shown above. I would of liked the red bushings, but for 10 bucks I can't complain. The bushings feel good and are poly. Put them on in a couple days.
Still waiting for the rear shocks to show up. It always seems that if you have a problem with something you order online and either they are out of the item at factory or whatever, it takes days to get the stuff. Well, I'll update the thread when they arrive.

______________________________________

When replacing the parts, I decided to re-use the bolts and nuts since the ACDelco bolts were a bit shorter and I was not about try and compress the bushings so the locking nuts could catch threads. I also liked the 2 nut locking system instead of the single plastic insert lock nut and re-used the original nuts as well.

I installed sway bar bushings and here are the old and new.
6790

Here you can see the years put on them. The washer has obviously been worn and this was present on both sides
6789

wow. this kit looks good for the price and they're all polyurethane? and looks like a huge difference between the old and new ones side-by-side.. still, ur old bushings look considerably more intact than on mine. i def. need to redo the whole front end suspension on mine. lol I have so much camber wear on my michelins that I just flipped them around(so i can use the other half of the thread pattern) on both front wheels and I keep driving until I have time to work on the suspension. lol ghetto fix for now so i dont get an unexpected blow out

[thillskier]

Brad,
Where did you buy the Delco kit? I need some as well, and for 10 bucks also:)! The Ultra (Gabriel front shocks are "OK" ..Not as good as what I was expecting..SHoulda gone with Tokico or the Gas a just KYB's... Not NEAR enough dampening, IMHO. Don't forget the Idler and pittman arm Moog rebuild kits (for 10 bucks approx). EASY install and WOW, what a difference! they made. ALso the Moog HD has the lifetime warranty, and my inserts/bushings were worn a pretty good bit, with resultnt slop...NOT NOW:)! Drives and turns like new!

[BradMph]

Brad,
Where did you buy the Delco kit? I need some as well, and for 10 bucks also:)! The Ultra (Gabriel front shocks are "OK" ..Not as good as what I was expecting..SHoulda gone with Tokico or the Gas a just KYB's... Not NEAR enough dampening, IMHO. Don't forget the Idler and pittman arm Moog rebuild kits (for 10 bucks approx). EASY install and WOW, what a difference! they made. ALso the Moog HD has the lifetime warranty, and my inserts/bushings were worn a pretty good bit, with resultnt slop...NOT NOW:)! Drives and turns like new!


Amazon.com
Strangely the item said shipment in 2-3 months also. SO I thought I was in for the long haul. Then they just shipped it out of the blue.

ACDelco 46G0016A Advantage Front Sway Bar Link
Price: $9.81

[BradMph]

Finally got the call from Schneider Racing Cams and the cam will be ready Oct. 3rd (tomorrow). They said they have an excellent grind for my truck and it will give it it's deserved potential. They have had many compliments about it that they mentioned. I am going to also purchase the valve springs that they have for the install. I asked them for more bottom end to help with acceleration which is needed with the 2.0L pickup and I asked for some lumpy cam sound also. Who doesn't like that sound, lol. They liked that idea and I feel they will do a great job. Kevin said if there is anything I'm not happy about with the cam, that I would not have to pay for the grind, just send out another cam and they will make sure I am 100% satisfied with their work.
I'll be sure to run a video on the startup and test drive. This next video will be a little different from the fresh rebuild video I made. I will definitely be putting my foot into more. ;) The exhaust is on my to do list still to help quiet it down some and I will be getting my rear shocks tomorrow from UPS. I have to try and correct the small drip on the main rear seal when the cam goes in. My driveway is pretty funny looking though with these tiny circles all over it. It's not terribly bad though and I haven't even noticed any drop on the oil dipstick from it, but it needs to be fixed. I can stop cleaning my driveway every few days also.

Going to go play in wrecking yards tomorrow and see if I can find some parts. Like to find an EFI from a 2.4 to do a future carb swap on mine or whatever I can dig up for the forum.
6820

[BradMph]

I had to post this World Tour route my shocks took to get to Spokane WA. Sort of reminds me of the cartoons when I was younger. When they throw the bad guy in the trunk and send him to Timbuktu and he comes back with all these city stickers pasted on the trunk.

Check out this list of places they got to go and remember not only are these arrival scans, they are also departure scans too. Well, besides the final destination. Someone at each stop had to remove them and put them on a truck or plane for the next hop.

Started in:
1) Gastonia, NC, United States
2) Greensboro, NC, United States
3) Columbus, OH, United States
4) Maumee, OH, United States
5) Chicago, IL, United States
6) Hodgkins, IL, United States
7) Spokane, WA, United States - Final

And this is why we pay so much for shipping a package.

[pennyman1]

I see your parts - they are in the red truck on thebottom left of the pile in the photo...

[BradMph]

I see your parts - they are in the red truck on thebottom left of the pile in the photo...
lol, you like that? That is a photoshop picture I made for a joke.

I got some good luck at the yard today. I found a 463b in a gallant with roller rockers and the complete ECI hardware, power steering and air conditioning stuff also. Someone removed the exhaust manifold though, so I don't know if it was a turbo they took or what.
The cam has a line groove from something getting between the cam and one of the caps. It isn't really bad and can be ground out. The images below show the cam and stuff removed because I grabbed it. I didn't know if this ECI unit is something I could put on my truck or not and if it was worth taking everything to do the update. I can get the harness and all for it. Mine is the G63B and this Gallant is the 463B so I figured I would ask in the forum if this fuel injection is the correct part to replace my carb in a swap. If so I can go back and remove it all for later install. The valve cover was different also very different from mine, but it will fit on my engine.
I picked up a pair of great stock side mirrors for the truck that is larger, stronger, and for trailer towing.
Anyway, I'll image them tomorrow and put the stuff I won't use for sale.


6826
6827
6828

[BradMph]

Still contemplating on going back and grabbing the fuel injection off this gallant at the yard. Not sure what happened to the motor, but it seemed to have something in the 2-3 port that looked like internal damage.
6862
Put these in the other day, the old rear shocks were trashed.

Race cam & valve springs should be here any day now. Maybe today I hope.
6930

[BradMph]

The Cam came in today and the springs.

Looking at the Cam card is a little complicated in that I hope that the new springs will fit correctly and things match up the way they should. I put some numbers down on this post and if anyone has any early warning advice to give before I take the head apart, don't hesitate to post. The head will stay on the block, but the valve springs will be changed out. My main concern is that the springs will be working in their correct ranges. But, most of all...how should I start out the timing setup for this thing? What would be the best method of attack on making the timing adjustments? I do see on the card that my rocker adjustment changed a bit on intake by .002, but I don't see a timing mark setup. I guess to start out at the factory and begin pushing towards TDC as close as possible until it runs best.
Anyway, I hope to maybe get a start on it tomorrow afternoon or early evening if I feel up to it.
If you Cam guys can decipher the cam card, let me know what you feel about it.
6864686515906

Here is a (mild grind) CAM grind I found ......................Below is a comparison between these two cam grinds.
online that an Aussy posted for his rebuild g63. I thought I would post it for
maybe someone who might want it
9242........................10181


Download Full Version Program for Configuring Cam Grinding Specs.
10316
Desktop Version Only Supports the Mitsubishi 2.0L Cam
10317

Here is an Online Cam Grind Configuration Program
http://www.camquest.com/
10315

So, your thinking of getting a cam grind!
Here are some numbers you may want to check before you send the cam out to the grinders.
10477
Copyright - Stan Weiss

[BradMph]

Well, bad news on the intake manifold. I showed up at the wrecking yard and the car crusher showed up before me. I was kind of angry since the Gallant was practically complete with all its parts. But, there will be more I guarantee this. This wrecking yard is in its infancy right now as it is a stepchild from a gigantic yard in the next town. The same owner owns both and the parts are abundantly available. I'll keep my eyes open and make a run again since I am very interested in locating the DOHC head for a swap as well as parts that folks may need in here.

While I was there the other day, I picked up these Eclipse seats for $17 for the pair. These are going into the truck ASAP.
6887

[BradMph]

I did some searching concerning the Camshaft installation for a G63B SOHC. I know that there is not a terrible amount of performance to gain from the SOHC but, there is some to find. The most valuable change would be to time the distributor advance to the cam. So, I did some looking around and located some pretty good information about timing the advance of the dizzy. I also located some information on installing the Cam into a SOHC Mitsubishi motor if anyone is interested. I'll upload the information and you can download it here below.

6891

[BradMph]

Started the installation of the cam, springs, and bucket seats tonight. Checked the spark plugs for the first time since the rebuild. Here are some images.
6900690115907
I am surprised how well the Schneider springs fit and they measured perfectly for height. I hope they help to quiet down the tappets, but this sound is normal for the non-hydraulic version of rockers. Valve lash has been reduced per cam recommendations by Schneider Cams. I have also been resourcing the modification of the distributor advance. The stock advance will not benefit the motor anymore and I will probably have to install the Chevy HEI vacuum advance into my dizzy to enhance the new cam.
6931

The plugs look a little lean, I'll give it a turn to richen it up when I finish installing this stuff.
6902

I am very happy with this ceramic header paint that I used also. The paint is remarkable so far and has not shown any type of heat problems at all.

[BradMph]

Created a little more visual animation so the cam timing can sink into my deteriorating northern hemisphere. Going to head to the auto parts store and get a magnetic dial indicator. I probably can make the wheel myself, if I can't find one for under $60. I have a few spare pulleys I can create some that will work.
69066934
(click image for full size)

PRINTABLE DEGREE WHEELS
(mount to a round metal plate)
6917...12627
Download - MightyRam50 Wheel
6918

Download - 2 Izzy Degree Wheels
12628


For figuring out your cam timing events, here are the equations.
CAMSHAFT SPECS FORMULAS

1. Intake Duration (ID) IO +180 + IC degrees
2. Exhaust Duration (ED) EO + 180 + EC degrees
3. Intake Center Line (ICL) ID/2 - IO degrees ATDC
4. Exhaust Center Line (ECL) ED/2 - EC degrees BTDC
5. Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) ICL/2 + ECL/2 degrees
6. Lobe Separation Angle (LSA) (ICL + ECL)/2 degrees
7. Valve overlap IO + EC degrees
8. Valve overlap (ID + ED)/2 - LSA degrees
9. Intake Opening (IO) ID/2 - ICL BTDC
10. Intake Closing (IC) ID - 180 - IO ABDC
11. Exhaust Closing (EC) ED/2 - ECL ATDC
12. Exhaust Opening (EO) ED - 180 - EC BBDC
_________________________________________

13039

Lobe Lift
Refers to the distance, measured in thousandths of an inch, that the lobe of the cam is raised from the base circle of the cam. Increasing valve lift allows more air/fuel mixture to enter the cylinders and more exhaust to exit, which generally leads to an increase in engine performance. An increase in lift almost always leads to an increase in duration because increasing lobe lift requires more distance to create the opening and closing "ramps" on the lobe. However, today's computer-designed, asymmetrical profile cams have a high acceleration opening ramp, while the closing side sets the valve down softly, helping longevity.

Valve Lift
Refers to the distance, measured in thousandths of an inch, that the valve is lifted off its seat at the cam lobe's highest point. Remember, the cam's rotary motion is converted to linear motion thru a lifter, pushrod, and finally a rocker arm. Therefore, valve lift equals lobe lift multiplied by the rocker arm ratio.

Lifters
A cam lifter, aka a follower, aka a tappet, makes direct contact with the cam lobes and follows the contour, or profile, of the cam.

Types of lifters:
Hydraulic flat-tappet
This type of lifter is self-adjusting, thanks to a valve-controlled plunger inside its lifter body. engine oil pressure maintains preload against the pushrod, and since no lash allowance is needed, they run quieter than mechanical lifters. On the other hand, they can perform poorly at high rpm due to an inability to bleed down excessive oil pressure

Solid (Mechanical) flat-tappet
Essentially a solid link between the cam lobe and the pushrod. Allows for greater rpm potential, since bleed-down is not a concern, but do require that lash, or clearance, be set between the valve and rocker arm to allow for expansion as the engine gets hotter.

Mechanical roller-tappet
Allows for the most aggressive lobe designs, due to the roller follower, and lends itself to high rpm operation, since it's a solid body design. Like a solid flat tappet lifter, it requires a lash setting that must be readjusted over time.

Hydraulic roller-tappet
Allows for aggressive lobe designs along with self-adjustability and quiet operation. They can, however, also suffer from bleed-down at high rpm.
One of the roller cam's greatest advantages is that rolling frictional forces are less than those caused by the "sliding" of a flat-tappet cam, which frees up some power. In general, roller-tappet profiles can be more aggressive for a given duration. On the other hand, a flat-tappet cam actually accelerates the lifter more quickly in the initial portion of the lift curve. With a short-duration cam, a flat-tappet cam can actually get to a higher lift faster than a roller cam.

13038

Duration
As lift refers to how far a valve opens, duration refers to how long it stays open. The opening time is expressed in degrees of crankshaft rotation, so a cam spec to 230* duration means the valve is being held open for 230* of crankshaft rotation.

Usually referred to by two types of duration
Advertised Duration
The number of crankshaft degrees that the cam follower is lifted more than a predetermined amount off its seat. the SAE standard is 0.006 inch. So advertised duration is the number of crankshaft degrees that the valve is open at least 0.006 inch.
***Not all manufacturers use SAE standard***

Duration at 0.050 inch
Measures the movement of the cam follower, in crankshaft degrees, from the point where it is first lifted 0.050 inch off the base circle on the opening side of the lobe to the point where it descends to 0.050 inch off the base circle on its closing side.
***Common industry-standard ***

Duration has a dramatic effect on engine performance. Stock camshafts usually offer relatively short duration and lift figures. This is done in the interest of a smooth idle and optimal part-throttle response. Longer intake duration opens the valve sooner in the cycle and closes it later. At lower engine speeds, this means the intake valve is still open as the piston begins to move upward, pushing the fresh air/fuel mixture out of the cylinder. On top of that, cylinder pressure can't build until the intake valve closes. The result is an engine with poor low and midrange response. But the late-closing intake valve becomes an advantage at higher rpm, when the higher air inlet speeds keep filling the cylinders, even with the late closing valve. Basically, the increasing duration will move the torque curve higher in the rpm range. Choosing a performance cam becomes a big compromise, you have to give some to get some.

Overlap
Overlap is the amount of time, measured in crankshaft degrees, that both the intake and the exhaust valves are open. This happens at the end of the exhaust stroke and the beginning of the intake stroke. Increasing duration or decreasing LSA, or doing both, increases overlap. A cam with an exhaust closing point of 4* ATDC and an intake opening point of 8* BTDC has 12* of total overlap

Lobe-Separation Angle (LSA)
Indicates the angle, in camshaft degrees, between the maximum lift points on the intake lobe and the exhaust lobe. Lobe separation is usually calculated by adding the intake centerline and the exhaust centerline, then dividing by two. For example, a cam with a 106* intake centerline and a 114* exhaust centerline has an LSA of 110* [(106+114)/2=110]

Narrower LSA
Increased overlap
Increased low-rpm torque
Narrower power band
Reduced idle quality
Increased cranking compression
Decreased piston-to-valve clearance

Wider LSA
Reduced overlap
Improved top-end power
Wider power band
Improved idle quality
Reduced cranking compression
Increased piston-to-valve clearance

Single and Dual pattern cams

Single Pattern
In this type of cam, the intake and exhaust lobe profiles are identical, using equal amounts of duration and lift.

Dual Pattern
This type of cam has different intake and exhaust profiles. In general, the exhaust lobe will employ more lift and duration to help evacuate exhaust gas from the cylinders.

13040
How a Camshaft Works (http://www.howstuffworks.com/camshaft.htm)

[BradMph]

Started doing some camshaft timing last night by checking the centerline of the cam. Want to make sure the truck is still correctly marked on it's timing marks and that things haven't changed drastically. Didn't get completed yet, but got the exhaust #1 valve checked. Need to do intake #1 and then calculate the difference and then degree. Friggin gauge I got to check the rise of the valve needed modification since the chromed adjustment shafts were too slippery and the lockdowns were not keeping it locked onto the shafts. I took some sandpaper and roughed both surfaces which helped a ton. The magnetic lockdown also needs to be adjusted because it sometimes will turn itself off if bumped. I did manage to install my new Eclipse buckets and replace the old IROC buckets. Now the only problem is not falling asleep in the seat while driving, so comfortable now and they lower the seating a bit in the cab.
I'll get to play with Mitsy some more today and teach myself about this CAM timing and stuff. I feel like I am jamming for finals at college so far. I am constantly reminded that you can't teach an old dog new tricks, but I fight it and thanks to a wifey that can understand that. :)
69286929

[BradMph]

Turned in my distributor to a shop to have it curved. Thanks for the helpful advice Pennyman, after thinking it over that was the best thing to do for it.
I also had time today to install some shock tubes for the hood of my truck. I no longer need the rod to support the hood and it is effortless to open it too. I added 2 shock tubes that I located at the wrecking yard that were pulled from the hatchback of an older RX7. They work great and do not rub anything when the hood is closed. Here is the completed project that took about an hour to do. If you decide to try this, I could supply the numbers of the tubes that I used if any are on them. It actually was pretty easy to configure the tubes to the hood too. Keeping them close to the hinge allowed the hood to open completely and let them fully extend to use their locking strength that is at the top end of their stroke.
69356936
69376938

[pennyman1]

what year was the rx-7? I like that setup on the hood.

[amcervantes]

haha I have some bad trunk shocks from an SC 430 that I have been meaning to put on. those trunks are really heavy for some reason so I figured it would hold up the hood on these trucks no problem. my do that this weekend.

[BradMph]

Got my distributor curved the other day and here are the final readings. One thing I must mention here is that my distributor was plugged into the Advance Vacuum port for a long time. Apparently, I have learned again that I do make many mistakes, but I am learning. :bang:
After the curving, they mentioned to me that the vacuum hose for the advance must be connected to the ported line of the weber carb. You can imagine my look when they said this :shock: , well not this bad, but close. lol.
I headed home and did the normal research on the carb and here you go folks. This is where mine is located.
6945
This is an example image only, not my carb.

I'm sure if I chose the wrong one now, Pennyman will back me up and correct me here soon. I wouldn't know what to do without that guy. Nice to have someone watching your back for you.

Here are the new specs curved into the dizzy by the shop. In addition to the specs, they also mentioned that the cam put in was a quite healthy beast and would really do well with this dizzy update. Hope this helps anyone following along.
6947

I have installed the dizzy, but for some weird reason, the wiring to the coil got changed. I thought I marked it clearly, but who knows. I am going to recheck the wiring and if anything has happened I can fix it. I have extra modules and whatever that will fix it.

[pennyman1]

the red one is the ported one - the easy way to tell is to look at the port in relation to the throttle blades. If its above the throttle blades, its ported vacuum - at or below the throttle blades its manifold vacuum. Ported vacuum rises with opening of the throttle blades, manifold vacuum drops with opening of the blades. That is why the dizzy won't advance on manifold vacuum. That new curve is perfect for what your cam is - more initial timing at the low end with less total timing. That will make that motor scream with that cam.

[BradMph]

the red one is the ported one - the easy way to tell is to look at the port in relation to the throttle blades. If it's above the throttle blades, its ported vacuum - at or below the throttle blades its manifold vacuum. Ported vacuum rises with the opening of the throttle blades, manifold vacuum drops with the opening of the blades. That is why the dizzy won't advance on the manifold vacuum. That new curve is perfect for what your cam is - more initial timing at the low end with less total timing. That will make that motor scream with that cam.

Not sure if the illusion of the red circled tube looks like it is higher, but it is not. It is right even with the other vacuum tube that has a blue circle and that hose attached. That image example is where mine was until yesterday, but not anymore. I removed the screw that was plugging the Red circle tube and moved my dizzy hose line to that. Then I plugged up the blue circle one.
6949

[BradMph]

what year was the rx-7? I like that setup on the hood.

The car looked like this...6950 with the hatch. Tomorrow I can take a look at these ones I put in for a serial number.
The other great thing when I installed these was that on the hood mounting, your ability to get fingers between the hood and the support piece sheet to put a nut on the bolt. Then on the area where the lower mount is bolted, there is enough layered body metal right there to drill and tap for threading a bolt into the body firmly.
6937
Not sure if the wrecking yard RX7 hatch shocks were changed or modified at any time, but they came off the style I posted the image of. I would follow the same areas to mount them also. I took extra time to locate the right place for them to fit correctly, away from hitting the fender lips and be opened to their full locking position. Strange that when I tried to compress these shocks by hand it was almost impossible. Once installed they worked beautifully being at their right compression and decompression strokes. It is so nice to open the hood now and it rises with almost no effort now. :thumbup:

[t8erbug]

I'm with you on wanting to do the EFI upgrade.. So far all I've seen is Starion stuff being swapped onto our motors. I definitely want to do it asap though because I'm getting the itch for a turbo!

[BradMph]

Yaaa turboooooo!
Well, here is the next add on update.

6970

I found these beauties at the wrecking yard. Little dirty is all, perfect glass and all the extra thick gaskets and screws. I'll shut my eyes when I drill the new holes in the doors. :cool:

Got the truck running and dizzy in. Need to tweak it a bit here and there, but it is very close. The bottom end is very spunky now. Feels responsive and I need to learn the clutch again, lol. The new seats are so comfy too. I could drive across the country now. I Gotta watch when my buddies jump in the truck with their dirty hands and stuff. They'll laugh about it and I will have to make them stop laughing. lol.

[BradMph]

Here is a little treat for you. First idle with the new Schneider cam and the curved distributor. Don't forget the Aussy Header, Magnaflow, and Weber.
I HAVE TO ADD TO THIS POST FOR VIEWING VIDEO. (If you want to hear the real sound and depth of this engine, put on those headphones and give it some bass a little. Computer speakers just don't give that reality feel that it really sounds like when your there.) I only use headphones.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrOszwIMErE

[pennyman1]

sounds wicked - where's the burnout video? BTW, did you use a breakin oil with zddp in it?

[BradMph]

I used what Schneider gave me which was a container of grease and I lathered the crap out of the cam, rockers valve springs, etc. I then kept the RPMs over 2000 per their recommendations for 15 minutes or more. I still have the Castrol 30wt which was also recommended and a big bottle of this...
6980
I am going to run this for the final 1000 miles completing the 3 oil changes of breaking in. I have been starting to lay my foot into this thing to see what changes have been done and I must say I have a ton more bottom end in the truck. Speaking of lighting up the tires..., I laid down a nice pair of stripes the other day while rolling away from a damp ground stop sign. I ran it up till 1st gear was finished and then let 2nd catch the asphalt so I didn't end up with an exhibition from the city. I rarely put rubber down in quantity like that(never), BFG T/A's are too pricey to start enjoying that addiction.
I have about 300-400 more miles before the oil is replaced this last time. This will be the time, I also will replace that rear main seal at the same time. All other leaks of any kind are fixed except for the seal. I might see a fuel jetting change by the time this is over too.

[BradMph]

Put your headphones on and take a quick drive. Always in HD

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VpoxNZuoJz0

[Komeuppance]

Just read through this whole thread, great stuff!!

I also had a similar machine shop experience lol... good ones are hard to find these days.

I'll have to check out your videos when I'm on my computer instead of my phone.

-Robert

[BradMph]

Replacing motor mounts now, I should of did this before the engine was installed. The driver's side mount is giving me problems since the holes don't line up perfectly and going through 2 plates to the frame makes in very uncooperative. I have tried using a punch to hold the line up placed in through the bottom and as I push the bolt from the top, slide out the punch to guide the bolt in, but there is not a lot of room to work with. I honed out the holes a little more on the plate that fits over the mounts and will try again.
The main reason I'm changing the mounts was to try and keep the exhaust from touching the frame under the passenger side of the truck. It doesn't always tap, just sometimes, which told me that something was moving. The mounts are pretty old and the passenger side was delaminating from the metal on the mount and probably was the problem. After the 1st, I also will probably head to the exhaust shop again to have some rerouting done to the exhaust. Though the sound is not yet gotten to me, I still want to exit the exhaust, heat out the side of the truck. This should also give the truck's nuts and bolts a rest from vibrations. My rear window slider is starting to bitch and it's right behind my head when driving. Anyway, that is what I'm doing right now.

[BradMph]

Today we ordered this little mod device for the truck. $69.00 and some change shipped from FL. Should arrive in a few days and then I will paint it and figure something out to install it so it doesn't look like it's bolted on top of the hood. I also don't want to pork the hood all up either, but we'll see how brave I am once it arrives. COld weather is here and I sure would like to start parts painting the truck in the garage. Anyway, we will update you on the arrival and installation when it drops at the door.

7270

[pennyman1]

I think I have seen a scoop like that somewhere... bond studs to the underside to bolt it to the hood.

[BradMph]

I think I have seen a scoop like that somewhere... bond studs to the underside to bolt it to the hood.

Should arrive tomorrow the 10th by FedEx. This one was got on Ebay, there is another one that is Plastic on Ebay, but the guy wanted too much for it. He got stuck with it in a sale and paid $90, I offered $45 because that's all it was worth for the plastic material used to make it. I wanted the glass anyway. I also like the centerline crease on it. Should match the trucks pretty good.

[BradMph]

Well, the cowl arrived and I must say it is pretty nice. It is thick enough to be strong, yet flexible to fit the curve of the hood great. I think I am going to fit it to the hood permanently and mold it in for final outcome. Right now it's just too friggin cold out in the garage to do anything, so I probably will wait. I read about some 3M epoxy that is good for this application and last years. I definitely don't want any cracking since our weather is so extreme up here and the metal would expand at a different rate then the glass does.. I may go with heavy duty rivets so the molding is not such a pain. I'm going to go down to wrecking yard and grab a hood off one of the available trucks there and use that instead of molesting mine.
Anyway, I will add this to the list and soon as I can grab a space heater for the garage, updates will be slow for now. 15-20 degrees is just to chilly for my liking.

[BradMph]

Cowl Hood

22188

I am glad I went today to the wrecking yard. There was a 1986 Dodge truck there with engine and trany and with a very nice intact body and I got the hood from for only $34.00.
This will let me keep my hood on the truck until I mount and mold in the cowl scoop onto this hood. The wrecking yard hood is perfect with just a little surface rust around the first set of punched holes in the under hood support metal.
Here are a few images with the cowl scoop set on it for size. I like the proportions of the two and the matching crease of the hood that is continued on the cowl.
This extra hood will allow me to open an air inlet through the hood to the carb and still keep it from inhaling rain or other weathering.

73627363
7364

[pennyman1]

Before I redid Geronimo, I had an A+A fiberglass ABS cowl induction scoop that was attached with rivets and had the scoop sandwiched between 2 layers of fiberglass and bonded to the hood. After a few years, it started to crack at the corners, and even redoing it with the woven cloth did not solve the cracking at the corners. That is why I now have a Bolton scoop - I used Ultrafast urethane windshield sealant to bond the scoop to the hood. Its the same sealant windshield installers used to glue in windshields before airbags - it allowed the windshield to be kicked out if necessary

[BradMph]

Before I redid Geronimo, I had an A+A fiberglass ABS cowl induction scoop that was attached with rivets and had the scoop sandwiched between 2 layers of fiberglass and bonded to the hood. After a few years, it started to crack at the corners, and even redoing it with the woven cloth did not solve the cracking at the corners. That is why I now have a Bolton scoop - I used Ultrafast urethane windshield sealant to bond the scoop to the hood. Its the same sealant windshield installers used to glue in windshields before airbags - it allowed the windshield to be kicked out if necessary

Pennyman does that sealant harden up? and is it paintable? I guarantee I will not fiberglass this on. I had a whaletail on Celica and it cracked at the corners also. It needs to flex and expand too much to use glass, for sure. There is some 3M product that I was reading on and it was said to have the best adhesive for this type of application. I still am searching around and seeing what others had done. I definitely don't want to redo after a couple years.
7376


This cowl is a RaceComposites
7375

example without the center rib

[BradMph]

Looked around online for examples of cowl scoop installations and think I am going this route.
7379

Going to use a windshield adhesive to hold the scoop down to the hood and then place stainless steel
acorn nuts about 2 inches apart or so. This will visually match-up with the snaps on the tonneu bed cover
to pull it together.
7378

[pennyman1]

That will work - since mine has the studs, I didn't need the exterior fasterers. There is also no lip to mount mine that way. It will get hard enough that it won't lose adhesion. Held up for 22 years and counting on Geronimo.

[BradMph]

Got all that top layer paint off the new(old) hood last night. I went and got a 4 inch putty knife and the paint came off surprisingly easy. The entire hood allowed the paint to be pealed (popped) off with the putty knife in about 45 minutes. Whoever painted it with that top coat paint didn't bother sanding I guess. This saved me a ton of time, so now I'll need to run a sander on hood to smooth it out a little, mark my center and drill holes for the new cowl bolts and air-filter intake opening. Prime both hood and cowl and mate them together. I picked up the adhesive at O'Reilly's the other night. The guys there know me so well that they let me in after closing hours to get it and got a chance to chat with them too.

Later in the future I will be going to paint store to get the paint for hood, as well as the entire truck I think. It's getting harder to stay motivated as I get older, but I hope to paint the whole truck for it's first time since I have owned it. Of course I will stay with the red, but not the Mitsy stock red. Something a little more purty for her is in mind.

[BradMph]

I thought I would do an update on the thread since it has been a while.
The hood is coming along well. I have both the hood and cowl primed and ready to start fitting to hood. Need to drill holes for cowl and then a large hole for induction into carb.
8231
This is the result I am trying to achieve in the end. I want to find a eye catching red for repainting the entire truck I hope next summer.

Oh, I also have some great news about a starting issue I had for a few years now. Apparently back in the day when I had to replace a starter, I was given a 2 wire starter during the purchase of a new one. I installed it and did not notice any problems. As time went on, I picked up a hard starting issue and if it didn't start in 2-3 trys it would flood and be a pain to start. Recently I replaced the starter when I rebuilt my engine. I installed another starter and it so happen to be a 3 wire starter. I then found out I taped the 3rd wire up that went to the original starter and forgot all about it, so I installed new starter and began to connect the 3rd wire. But, before I did I had to install a circuit between the 3rd wire connector of the starter to coil. The circuit reassured power flowed one way only and at a 12 volt range.
Well today, I decided I was going to connect the wire just for hopes to fix. I went to truck after connecting and turned the key... the truck started instantly, just like the good old days. In fact it did this everytime and no more flooding. So, my starter and electrical are for a 3 wire so 12 volts is pushed during the start-up. Feels like a new truck after years of cranking it over and over.

[BradMph]

Almost done with the cowl hood stuff. I need to put another coat of paint on the items and cut openings in the hood for air flow under the cowl scoop. I went with a satin black for now until I can paint the entire truck a nice red. Shouldn't be much longer to finish and post some images.

[BradMph]

I been sicker then a dog for the last 6 days and finally went to doctor on Monday for antibiotics. 1st time I had anything like this for at least 20 years. Feeling better now.
Going to put a bead of windshield glue around base of cowl and be sure to tape it off also. The glue has an annoyingly quick drying time so always try to protect those areas you don't contaminated. Anyway, I'll try to post the last one with it on the truck. I hope all this work pays off, at least I didn't molest the original hood as well.
8491

Nothing is permanent except the small hole cut in hood for intake on the drivers side, other then that changes can still be made if needed if I change my mind.


UPDATE POST:
Installed hood March 7 2014 and I think I kind of like the look of the cowl scoop there. I'll try to get some real photos and post them maybe later today. I need to do some home repairs for a long term client at their million dollar property which is much more fun to snap photos at, then in town somewhere. Great family and lucky to be their little helper. lol

[BradMph]

Ok, Here are some images of the hood thing I installed on my daily driver. I am procrastinating on the molding to the hood because of severe weather changes we have here. A flexible material is best, but it will still flex differently since one is fiberglass and the hood is metal. I painted hood black Rustoleum rust killer Semi Gloss for preventative protection and a single clear coat that needs the top of hood to be wet sanded and shot with the last can of clear. Spray can paint is starting to become sort of cool with the new tips they are using. The only problem is that some tips can vary from their sprays and you have to be careful if the tip gets loaded a bit and spits a drop out on your job. I hope to get entire truck painted red after weather gets warmer and I save some cash this year. The red is all original and showing wear after almost 30 years.

You can click on image to make them show a larger version.
85148515
85168517

[BradMph]

The other night I lost oil pressure going about 20mph. Came up to next corner and temp was perfect, a little low and everything else seemed ok, but oil pressure was "0". The truck put out a little fan belt squeak and the idle dropped and almost stalled. I rolled a little farther and it stalled right in front of friends house. I pulled it to the curb and looked under hood and everything look ok. I had oil, water, no over heating. I knew oil pressure was null, so I checked to see if I could turn it over by hand and no go. Something froze up inside engine and by the looks and sound, it was a balance shaft problem. I knuckle heat checked the block by the balance shaft and sure enough it was warmer then the rest of the engine. So, I have a job to do and pulling the engine is a must. Without knowing 100% yet what happen, I am hoping that either a balance shaft decided to spin its bearing and get stuck locking up the balance shaft on the bearing or an oil drive belt broke which in turn would do the same thing to a balance shaft. It did not sound like a piston or crank lockup, but you never know. Whatever happened the damage should not be incredibly terrible because I wasn't even near an RPM that would cause catastrophic damage thank god. Crawling at 20mph and the engine just slowed and stalled. We will pull it in garage and see if we need a balance shaft kit installed which would be a easy fix, but this is usually a rare case. We'll keep you informed as soon as we find the reason for this problem.

[Malaking_TT]

I suggest Porche Guards red. Its very bright. I painted my Kawasaki kz550 that color and it looked awesome IMO

[BradMph]

Thanks, I'll check that out. I don't like the stock California Red that it came with.

Pulled engine last night to check why it lost oil pressure and is locked. Pulled oil pan and both the balance shaft and oil gear shafts turn just fine. The oil pump belt was attached and in perfect condition. The head portion of the motor turns fine and I did a couple full rotations. There was no metal bits or anything obvious in the lower end that I can see causing the crank not to turn.
Again, this happened going about 20mph and came to a stop and it almost stalled. I noticed oil pressure was zero, so I idled to the next corner and it made metal screech sound or like a fan belt squeal and then wanted to die. It didn't lock up or make any hard knocks or bangs or anymore strange noises. Acted like I just turned the key off. It didn't overheat at all, no water in oil and when I took oil cap off to check inside there was wet oil there. The head looks fine, it's just the crankshaft not able to rotate. The wrist pins and rod bearings seam to have the same amount of movement on each and seems normal. I tapped on the rods with a dead blow hammer to see if that would free it up and also put a torque wrench on crank pulley bolt to try and rotate engine either way and no go.
No hits or scrapes inside lower end.
What is strange to me is that oil pressure dropped to zero, yet the drive belt and shaft are intact. No belt jump and shaft has no abnormal play or scored bearings.
I removed the oil filter and filter housing and there was oil in the filter.
The oil pickup tube screen was clear and tube was fine. I guess I will pull the front engine plate off tomorrow and look at the oil pump gears. Then pull the rear bearing seal and seal plate.
The truck was running perfect up to this moment.

[BradMph]

Found the problem on the motor today.
I removed the front plate and shafts and it looks like the oil shaft spun the bearing and covered the oil hole. It looks like it shifted towards the front about a millimeter also.
8761

checking the rod bearing play, I noticed the #1 rod bearing had no play, so I removed the rod cap and the bearing was stuck on the crank. I tapped it loose and it is evident the bearing had spun because of lack of oil.
87628763

Here is the crank shaft after removing the bearing.
87648765

and this is the rod end.
8766

The bearing heated and actually left a shaving of itself on the crank. I probably can just flake it off with a razor blade real careful and the crank will be just fine. The rod and cap are fine also. They had a good hold of the bearing so no markings on them as you can see. I'll contact my machine shop though and inform them and most likely have them repair it. This is because the bearing on the oil pump shaft spun and that is not an item I installed. It must of been just loose enough to turn a bit and then stop, clogging the oil pressure hole.
I'll give them a call on Monday and see what they want to do. Meanwhile I think I will get the parts ahead of time so either way I can be a little more ready to get it fixed.

[pennyman1]

polish the crank journal with some crocus cloth after you get the bearing slivers off of it. Hopefully it didn't scour the crank.

[BradMph]

Since I have to pull the crank, I'm going to pull the one out of the spare engine I have from the 87 parts truck I had and have that done since it has way less miles. I will check the wear on it and make sure it is not in bad shape. Then put all new bearings on all the rods. I hope there are no more surprises when I pull the crank out. It doesn't look like the pistons or rings got hurt or wrist pins. I think after removing I will do that sanding on it on the bench. I need to check oilers inside the block as well because there definitely was some debris passed from this bearing.
I was planning to replace the rear main seal on the motor, but I am glad I just pulled motor and all out again. This time was easier since everything stayed attached and only took about 2 hours to remove. This other motor also has balance shafts, but I think it's time to remove them. I did some research about the circumstances if they are in or out and I think my decision is out. I just don't want to spin a bearing on one again like this which is easy to do. I am looking for an aluminum flywheel if I can find the right price. Maybe have the machine shop work my original flywheel to remove some weight since that will be much cheaper.
Well, I think I will get things rolling tomorrow and start this project.

[asmyser]

yeah i had a very similar problem, however, mine was due to the bearing not having oil...i oopsed the check of the oil level one day and got the same results:
8913891589168917

[BradMph]

Ouch Asmyser, though yours looks more serious I am looking deeper into why mine, doing what it did. I have removed the crank from my doner 87 G63B engine for my 86 2.0 and the balance shafts and crank look remarkable, almost perfect. I have some photos I will post later on before I sent the crank to the machine shop. I need to order balance shaft and rod bearings for when the crank gets finished. As well as the crank bearings depending on how worn or damaged they got in less then 3000 miles. The crank needs to be checked so I can order the right bearing sizes for it and rod ends.
I'm going to reopen the oil pump and check for failure here also. When I checked the balance shaft bearings on both sides I see the rebuilder just put a bearing with an oiler hole on the single bearing side shaft and It appeared to look like it had spun past the oil hole on the block, but the doner engine has no oiler hole(strange). I checked the double bearing shaft side and things look intact, though not very smooth and scratched. All will be replaced and changing my mind regularly...I will install these much better balance shafts. I was going to put a removal kit in, but I just am not ready to deal with a vibration I will not be happy having after finishing everything. I am going to also swap out the rear bearing oil seal and housing from the doner because it looks like someone put a brand new one in the doner engine.

This is the information on the bearings in the motor presently:
King Engine Bearings, Inc.
371 Little Falls Road, Suite 5
Cedar Grove, NJ 07009
USA
Phone: 1-973-857-0705
Toll Free: 1-800-772-3670
Fax: 1-973-857-3228
Email: inquiry@kingbearings.com
http://www.king-bearings.com/cat/PanelView.aspx?mfamily=872302
8973
8 X
C4481
122CI /2.0Liter
G63B,4G63 L4 SOHC
8 Valves, vin D
Gasoline 02/1980 - 04/1992 1997
85x88 4

CR4481AM STD
/0.25

Shell No
C4481

Qty
4 Pairs

Diameter
1.7709/1.7717
44.981/45.001

Max wall Thick
0.0588
1.494

Housing
1.8899/1.8904
48.003/48.016

Length
0.9290
23.597


I want to change the front seal on the trany too since its down and accessible. I need to take my fuel pump block plate to auto store to find a better one then the one I made. This has been seeping a litte oil also that I noticed.
I don't want any more surprises this time when I am finished and everything is back in the truck. If I get a fail again, I am ripping it all out and going american with a V6 or V8. Tired of these surprises and stuff with this present engine and the cost of anything to replace is overpriced.

[BradMph]

Here are those images of the doner crank stuff I took.
89688969

Lower end open and a rod bearing with the A17X DOE L stamp
89708971

Balance shaft bearings in doner engine. Notice single bearing side has no oiler hole in bearing, but the double bearing balance shaft side has oiler holes in both bearings. Only can see the front bearing but the back one has a hole to.
8972

[BradMph]

Picked up a fuel pump block off plate today at O'reilly's Auto. Nice fit to the 2.0 fuel pump space with exact bolt pattern. Part Mr.Gasket #1516. They keep them up on the high performance chrome parts wall and there were only 2 types to choose from.

9021

[BradMph]

Got my crank back from machinist today and we decided to order Kingbearing's Pro race bearings .25 clearance size. I need to get some plastic gauge tonight and pre run engine build grease and whatever. I bought a new torque wrench for inch pounds and things are rolling along. I'll keep you posted.

Here is Kingbearing's brochure on their racing new line and for G63x engines.
9123
You need to unzip download and have Acrobat Reader from adobe.com in place for viewing catalog.

[BradMph]

Pulled the crank out of my truck today and found some leftover gunk in the bearing channel of no1 main bearing. I am going to replace all the main bearing also. I might have some partially clogged oilers going to the wristpins and will check them. The main bearings were wearing all over the place. Each one was worn differently. The rod bearings were looking like they were right at a point of not being happy.
9266
click image to expand
I do have a concern question and hope some one knows better then I do. No3 wristpin has some stiffness. All the wristpins are locked into the rods and all the side to side and rotational movement is happening between the wristpin and piston bushing. But, this No3 is just stiffer then the rest. 1,2,4 rods don't stand up by themselves in the block. They are nice and smooth and freely move in the direction they travel when running. Will this No3 wristpin loosen up like the others. Everything was new in there and the movement is still smooth on 3 with no grabbing. But, is it normal for some places like these to be a little tight on clearance?

Here you can see how I can stand up the No3 rod held in place by the tight clearance wristpin while the others flop to the sides of the block.
9267
click image to expand

[pennyman1]

I would pull the pin on no 3 to see why it is stiffer than the others - may be something in there from the bearing failing - may want to check all of them to be sure nothing is lurking in the rest of them - is there an oil passage up to the wristpin?

[BradMph]

I think your right PM, I was looking in the tiny oilers of the rods and it looks like there is cylinder grinding compound in them. I'm going to tear open the oil filter also and see if I didn't have an oil filter failure as well. This BS shouldn't of happen and by the looks of these rod bearing it looks like the other 3 were going to do what the first one did.
9347
I am going to go through this engine myself this time and do all the mike checking and installation myself. I felt intimidated before about it, but I think it's a better time then ever to do it myself.
I purchased and inside diameter measuring tool set (shown in next post)
and a micrometer tool set shown here.
9348
I have to wait to order the main bearings until I mike the clearances and bores of the engine.
The 87 truck doner I had and using parts from for this repair has the larger oil pump I want to use as well.
I'm going to just take my time and get everything the best I can get it and with better parts.

On the piston, there is oilers on both sides to oil the wristpin and one going down center of the rod for rod bearing. The rod stem oiler looks to have some clogging.
UPDATE: Oilers are clear on rods.

[BradMph]

These are some mike measures I have taken to prepare for the bearing sets.
9814

I purchased this tool set to measure the inside diameters of the bearing housings. If you never seen one of these, the "T" shape compresses on the top bar and you place it in the spot to measure and release the spring. After you the size, you lock it and then measure the length of the top rod which I used a simple dial micrometer. I am waiting for my more accurate micrometer set to arrive so I can get that extra digit more accurate
9384

Things came out pretty good even using the poor mans way to measure the clearances. Basically I could order what had been installed before which was 0.25 rod bearings and the 0.10 crank bearings but I wanted to teach myself this process at least once. I am still going to back myself up with using plastic gauge for oil clearance setting.
I also have these great documents to help me get things right also.
9385
Download Your Own Copy of This Specs Page
9390

Clevite has a basic formula to figure out oil clearance that they show in a great catalog available for download. It show failure diagnosing and much more. Here is a section on proper clearance.

How much clearance do your bearings need?
class="cms_table_outer_border" style="width: 750px"
|- class="cms_table_outer_border_tr"
| class="cms_table_outer_border_td" | How much clearance do I need for my rod,
main or camshaft bearings? This is one of the
most frequently asked questions. Unfortunately,
there isn’t one simple answer that suits every
case. Engine application, lubricant selection
and operating conditions will dictate different
clearance levels. This isn’t to say we can’t
generalize on at least a starting point.
First, let’s define how and where clearance
should be measured. Half shell rod and main
bearings do not have a uniform wall. The wall
is thickest at 90 degrees from the split and
drops off a prescribed amount toward each
parting line, depending on the bearings intended
application. This drop off is called “Eccentricity.”
In addition, there is a relief at the parting lines.
Eccentricity is used to tailor the bearing shell to
its mating hardware and to provide for hardware
deflections in operation. Eccentricity also helps
to promote oil film formation by providing a
wedge shape in the clearance space. The relief
at each parting line insures that there will not be
a step at the split line due to bearing cap shift
or the mating of bearing shells that differ slightly
in thickness within allowed tolerance limits.
(See figure 1.)
9388

| class="cms_table_outer_border_td" | For these reasons, bearing clearances are
specified as “vertical clearance” and must be
measured at 90 degrees to the split line. The
best method of measurement is with a dial bore
gage that measures the bearing inside diameter
when the bearings are installed at the specified
torque without the shaft in place. Measurements
should be taken at front, center and rear of
each bearing position. Another common method
of checking clearance is through the use of
For most applications .00075 to .0010” (three
quarters to one thousandth of an inch) of
clearance per inch of shaft diameter is a
reasonable starting point. For example a 2.000”
shaft diameter would require .0015 to .0020”
bearing clearance. (.00075 X 2.000” = .0015”
and .0010 X 2.000” = .0020”) Using this formula
will provide a safe starting point for most
applications. For high performance engines it
is recommended that .0005” be added to
the maximum value determined by the above
calculation. The recommendation for our 2.000”
shaft would be .0025” of clearance.
9389
|-

[BradMph]

Got some parts in, Gaskets, Rod Bearings and tomorrow the micrometers and a balance shaft kit and I need to get some plastic gauge which I procrastinate on getting. I need to order main bearings, but can't until micrometers show up. I'm also reading up on this bearing stuff. It's so important to be correct and I want it to be the best way it can. There is so many decisions on how it will be driven and the oil to use and clearance settings and measuring, and rechecking yourself and hope it is all right. Well, we will see I guess.


9507

[pennyman1]

use a zddp breakin oil like compcams or edelbrock, then use a zddp oil like brad-penn or amsoil

[BradMph]

Any suggestions for initial startup grease or engine build grease?


Well, I got more delivery today and also went to Harbor Freight, Check this out.

This Micrometer Pittsburg Item# 66512 set I ordered special through HF at an unbelievable price. The reviews are outstanding for
these and said to be extremely accurate. I will be calibrating mine to reassure their as good as customers say.
Regular $39.99, I used discount code number 93481220 which marked it down another $10, to $29.99
Shipping was $6.99 and tax brought the entire purchase to $40.00
9514

Today I went Harbor Freight and got this stuff on this coupon page. These coupons are good until April 30th 2014
9515

I also picked up a 4 piece floor standing pad system for $7.00 and is about 6ft x 6ft and 3/4in thick.

I agree you need to watch the stuff purchased at HF, but in many many cases the prices are just remarkable and quality is beyond anything anywhere else. These are the widely hunted items, well worth their price by a huge amount. I also received a FREE LED flashlight and 25ft tape measure. The stuff is solid, quality stuff...all of it. Take the coupons and use them yourself. I got the full size torque wrench 1/2 inch drive ft. pounds and also got a inch pounds shorter one too.

[DroppedMitsu]

I always shop at HF, that's where a lot of my tools are from. You just have to stay away from certain items and also read reviews to make sure the tools work/perform correctly.

[BradMph]

Well, just waiting on the King Main Bearings to show up (twiddling thumbs). I decided on these...
SKU: KIN-MB5227XP
King Engine Racing Bearings MB5227XP
$55.25 + $7.76 for shipping. I got 35% marked down for shipping since I found a promo code online.
I ordered them through Autoplicity which had the best price and guaranteed fit policy. I sent them the specs for the .025 oversized bearings and hope the oil clearance falls into place. I have a pretty wide area to play with at .0008 to .0020 inch clearance so it should be close.
I noticed that I also could of ordered them through Sears also!! Kind of surprised me when I did a search and this company showed up and the prices were really good for them. Some places just plane ole were ripping people off at around a hundred bucks for the set and Sears was like $55.
I finished the front plate assembly last night with all new seals and the parts mix with the doner truck parts went perfect. I now have the larger oil pump and since the balance shafts from the doner truck were so perfect I went with installing them one final time. Installing them in place of my old shafts tightened the things right up nice. My original ones were on the slop side and probably did some vibrating from the marks I noticed on them.
I'm also going to pull the number 3 piston out and see why the wrist pin is sticky. There doesn't seem to be any grooves on the pin, but there just seems to be a little too much stiffness with it. The other 3 piston pins are well broken in and move freely compared to the 3rd. It feels smooth, but possibly has a little bend in it that needs attention. I was hoping to pull it through the bottom and out, but now way. :) I will have to pull the head off and remove it that way.
I am looking for a machine shop to lighten the flywheel. My machinist is busy and I don't want to wait a week for this. I checked prices on an aluminum flywheel and gawd they are pricey. Maybe I'll post a wanted item in the forum and see if I can get one for a reasonable price.
Well, that's where I am at now and I'll update as I can.

[BradMph]

Today was a good day for package delivery. I received my main bearings from King Bearing MB5227XP.
They have a tri-metal racing coating that I hope will save me in case of another failure like I had. Their test
show good results on the dry oil test shown in the download below. I think I will install an idiot light too since
my oil pressure gauge is on the lower console and doesn't get the instant attention that it should.
97189719
I have yet to gauge the bearings and might give it a try tonight if I am feeling brave. If they are too tight, the crank needs to be turned to fit them. If they are too lose, I will need to order a replacement that fits.

I thought I would upload the King Bearing Material information documentation on their bearings if you would like to view it. They give a pretty good description and testing of their bearing design.
9720


Here is a list of bearing companies in case your looking...
*King Bearing
*ACL
*Clevite
*Federal Mogul
*Topline
*Engine Pro
*Engine Tech
*RockAuto
*Sealed Power

[BradMph]

Let me first say, the order was not correct and Autoplicity did not pass my message that I needed the .025 bearings which are a thicker bearing. They sent the standard size, which I imagine is stock size because they were short of compressing the plastic gauge. I decided to check the size anyway with the standard size and they are definitely not going to work. Here are the images of the test and as you can see the plastic gauge is barely touched.
97619762
97639764

Now if I am wrong someone correct me here because I am no pro at this clearance test stuff and I want to get correct. Here are the numbers...

The torque on the main bearing caps was 37-39 ft. lbs.
The required oil clearance for the main bearings is...
0.0008in. to 0.0020in. which = 0.02mm to 0.05mm


My test with standard size bearings which shows in the photos above displays an excessive clearance by at least...
0.025mm My maximum clearance should of squashed the gauge to the .051

In the photos it shows a little less then the 70's mark (0.070's mm) on the plastic gauge packaging, so to decrease the oil clearance to
at least the 0.05mm maximum that is my required oil clearance I would need the 0.025mm size bearing like I should of got. If I am not
mistaken and correct me if I am, the 025mm bearing is the same as the 010 in. bearing. To be exact the 010 comes out to be 0984252 in.

So, the big question I have is...are my figures correct? If I got the 025 bearings, would these bearings decrease my oil clearance to a
closer and compatible oil clearance of 0.0008in. to 0.0020in. which = 0.02mm to 0.05mm range?

[BradMph]

I figured I would post the Plastic Gauge colors and clearances they are used for.
The green is what I have been using for the rod and main bearing checking.



9842

Plastigauge .001 in. to .003 in. / .025 mm to .075 mm (Green)
Plastigauge .002 in. to .006 in. / .050 mm to .150 mm (Red)
Plastigauge .004 in. to .009 in. / .10 mm to .228 mm (Blue)
Plastigauge .009 in. to .020 in. / .228 mm to .51 mm (Yellow)

[BradMph]

Picked up new set of .025 Kingbearings and installed them today. The gauge test was great. All the gauges were identical and that is what you want. I am right near the upper area for clearance so I torque the main bearings a couple ft. pounds more to shrink the clearance just a bit.
Here are the test.
9854
98559856

They specify that .002in is max clearance and I am happy with this turn out. With the extra torque it should fall into a safe spot and I can use a little thicker oil if there is any problems but it should be fine.

Here is how you protect the crank for placement so they rod studs. don't scratch it.
9857

I also did some dremel work on the oil trails at the front of the block. The cast was cluttered with some flash in the oil trail at the front plate. This should help a little to speed up the flow, with the large oil pump too.

am now gauging the rod ends to the crank and I have a feeling it could be a little tight. If not I will bolt them on and we will be moving towards finishing very soon. I am going to pull a piston that has a stiff wrist pin on it and see if any debris is causing it. Well, back to work.

[BradMph]

Getting close to install motor. Need to rewire distributor and check bearing and gasket on transmission. I also need to do a oil pumping through the engine to make sure it is getting some pressure since that was the issue this all had to be done. It should be ok since now the number one rod bearing has a working oiler. We will run a video on the startup when it's ready. I have not been in any rush while trying to make sure everything is torqued properly and pre-run lubed.
99979998

[DroppedMitsu]

Looking good, hope everything goes according to plan come start up. Good info on bearings and plastigauge/clearance. I've been meaning to do some reading up on it for when I go to rebuild my 4g63.

[BradMph]

I finally put the engine back into the truck and filled the fluids. I put some more lucas zinc in the oil, squirted oil in cylinders and also used black molly pre-assembly lube grease on all the new moving parts. Nothing started leaking so far. I pulled the plugs and coil wire and crank the motor for a few to see if oil pressure will come up, but it doesn't. Seems you have to get the motor (oil pump) spinning pretty fast to even phase the pressure on the gauge. I'm pretty sure the oil will pressurize when it starts and if not, I'll shut it off even quicker.

These are the product lines I use on a regular basis in case your interested. Not sure if it's force of habit or they are actually pretty good OEM replacement items etc.
10126
Click for expanded view

I did a stupid thing tonight and feel like an idiot for doing it. I used a torque wrench on crank bolt to turn motor to TDC for a dizzy re-drop and forgot the torque wrench was still on the crank bolt and I flicked the starter and herd this big thud! I thought oh crap something broke again in motor. I went to the engine bay and my torque wrench spun with crank about 1/2 turn and flop landed on passenger inner fender still attached. No damage to either object but I was kicking myself out of the garage at that time. It could of been worse if hood was down I guess or it broke the weakest item it could find. Thanks to ratcheting torque wrenches it just made an eye opening thump sound when it swung over. Sometimes I scare myself, lol.
Anyway, I put plugs back in connected wires and tried to get it lit up, but no spark from coil. Tomorrow I'll check this problem since I was exhausted tonight. Something I probably forgot to reconnect or coil needs replacing, it's most likely the first choice.

If things don't work out with these repairs by some freak thing that might happen, The engine is going on the stand for good w/trany.
The truck will be getting updated to v8 and trany. I'm tired of the BS with these Mits motors.
I really like what this guy in this video has done and will probably use the same setup. Changes were minimal and access to engine components is clean. I think this is one of the cleanest swaps I've seen.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OPDYpGCxZBg

[BradMph]

Well, the truck started after a little investigating with the coil issue. Actually it was not the coil, it was the dizzy module. 86 Mitsubishi MM 2.0L has 2 wires leaving the dizzy and connecting to the coil. There is one blue wire and one black wire. Mitsubishi decided that Black will go to positive and blue to negative. I figured black would be ground and connecting this way burned the module. Not to big a deal when you have 3 backups. So, I removed the dizzy and replaced the modules that were in there as a pair. Pretty simple thing to do, but you must be sure to gap the unit to the rotor shaft. I gapped it about 10 thousanths and reinstalled the dizzy and corrected my wiring.
I did a double check on motor and then got in truck and cranked her up. The truck started immediately and the oil pressure followed about 10 seconds later. It jumped to about 80 on the oil gauge as the choke engaged. I gave it a little jab on the gas and got a response from the balance shaft that sounded like a loose fan belt. I had a feeling the bearing was a little snug on this part. So, I started to rev the throttle slower and evenly up and down, then holding at 2500 rpms and letting off, trying to seat the bearing. Well, this worked and the sound disappeared. The engine sounded very good in fact. Responsive and healthy again. I ran the motor long enough to burn the paint onto the header and just prior to the thermostat opening and shut her down.
Well, I think it is good...no leaks, no burned bearing, no problems. I will get up early tomorrow and take the truck for a wash. I am going to take the side roads so I can listen to how it does. I need to retime the dizzy and check for any leaking

[BradMph]

The truck is running very well after the work done. I have absolutely no leaking at all from anywhere on the motor. So, I hope I fixed that main rear seal finally. Going to adjust the flat tappets in a few days and try to get them to be a little less noise. Though this is typical of the mighty max trucks that have this type of head, it doesn't hurt anything. I have a assembly set of roller rockers with rod and cam, but that may go to something else.

Here's a short video of the initial drive down the road after completing.


http://youtu.be/cI6Sx18wDBQ

[Fordubishi]

Wohoo race truck !!!!!

[BradMph]

Wohoo race truck !!!!!

I been going around town eating up V8 mini-trucks. After that I'm headed to Canada to find some more. :P

Actually for the 2.0L it gets off it's ass and moves pretty darn good. While it still runs...it will give me a vehicle to start hauling the V8 stuff I need at home that I'm getting at the local yard.

[BradMph]

Working on some fine tuning and odds and ends that need to be done.

*Adjusted the valves, this time using a better method of degree of the cam shaft. Exhaust valves were needing adjustment a bit more then the intake this time.
*Started to reinforce the header from tapping the frame on occasion by using a bracket off the old exhaust system. Putting a rubber grommet between it and the frame should suppress the tapping and vibration.
*Started wire brushing rims to give them and update.

ToDo
*Need to reconnect the 87 digital clock on my 86 where it is installed in the installed Ram50 console.
*Install 2 dash lights into my oil pressure and voltage gauges that are installed in the console as well.
*Fix box door using a strip of leather for a hinge method since the factory cheap plastic has worn completely.
*Remove and replace tint on rear window and probably side windows too.
*Shorten shift throw if it can be done.

I'll leave list as it is now until I catch up with it.

[pennyman1]

find a stedebani shifter for a starquest - they have been out of production, but there was someone on the starquest forum that was supposed to start making them - check there. I have one in Geronimo, but its the straight shaft one instead of the 15 degree bent on - that is why my shifter handle is spun 180 from the way it should be because I punch the dash on 1,3,and 5th gear shifts otherwise

[BradMph]

find a stedebani shifter for a starquest - they have been out of production, but there was someone on the starquest forum that was supposed to start making them - check there. I have one in Geronimo, but its the straight shaft one instead of the 15 degree bent on - that is why my shifter handle is spun 180 from the way it should be because I punch the dash on 1,3,and 5th gear shifts otherwise

I was wondering why your dash had that indentation there. :grin:
Thanks PM, I will check that info and see what I can find out.

[BradMph]

Took a look under my truck to see if anything is leaking and damn I was surprised that not even a drop of any fluids have found their way out of the truck yet. I need to order some larger jet for carb, the 65/55 idle jets will be tried first. Also the kit carbs unlimited has that requires a modification looks interesting. One more thing is that linkage sinc kit that makes the 32/36 progressive linkage into a sincronized linkage that opens both barrels at the same time. Lots of bottom end torque and not a big gain on upper end. Exactly what I am looking for. The Weber 40 downdraft is another prospective that looks good. So far so good the truck is running superb for me right now. I am feeling confident that the clearances I gave the bearing replacement will help to keep things together.
A little tweaking to the carb with some new jets and we will be good to go. I fixed the exhaust rattle and that also is a plus. One more thing also is the gauge lights. I have everything ready and just need to drill the hole larger in the back and place the copper connection stuff for the twist in lights.

[BradMph]

Ordered a set of idle jets for the carb today and I went with the next upper size from base line 60/50 size on both primary and secondary idle jets. I also ordered a new sponge washable dome filter so air doesn't have to come in from the sides and over the edge of the carb like on the filters sold with the weber. I ordered from pierce manifolds in California since the price and shipping rate was very reasonable for Weber OEM.

Code Name Price Qty Total
74403.055 IDLE JETS
74403.055 $4.36 1 $4.36
74409.065 IDLE JET
74409.065 $4.36 1 $4.36
1038
1038 AIR FILTER FOR WEBER 32/36 DGV $35.88 1 $35.88
10458

Going to finish installing the lights for the important aftermarket gauges I installed and should finish tonight with the last one.

[BradMph]

Here is the install.
104671046810469

I want to pull the timing covers and plex-glass them.
Here is an example of how it may look.
10487

I decided to add some information to this post about a cam gear sprocket update for us 1st gen trucks with the 2.0L engine.
Posting information as I come across it helps me go back and retrieve it for later use.
This particular additional information is credited to Geezer101 of this forum for a post he made about an update for the 2.0 4G63 cam sprocket. It replaces the stock sprocket to an adjustable sprocket. Though the sprocket will not make a real big change in horsepower if any, but it is a great looking machined piece that would dress up any 2.0L with it installed. I will mention now that there are some modification to be done to the sprocket to fit some 2.0L motors. Not all will have these problems possibly, but it is a good idea to be warned ahead of time so you can make the adjustments.
(all sprockets used on the 2.0L SOHC 1st gen motors will require some machining)

1)The sprocket may interfear with the timing cover because of it being wider. (Have it machined if needed)
2)The cam pin hole may need to be increased to fit the 2.0L cam pin. (Simply drill it out to size)
3)The sprocket time mark will be straight up 12 o'clock instead of at the 9 o'clock stock mark. (OK as is)
4)The final issue is that according to Geezer101 the sprocket was approximately 4° off when installed. (adjust it)

Cam Sprocket Science in Theory for SOHC 8valve
Power/Mileage & Power Band - (Don't want to move sprocket in either direction more then 4° on a SOHC).

Advanced =better gas mileage
Retard = more power

Power Band
Advance - moves it up
Retard - moves it down


HK5Motors Cam Sprocket
1048310545
HKMotorshttp://www.hk5motors.com
INSTRUCTION MANUAL NOT INCLUDED
Item Number: 1 x Cam Gear 6-CG-4G63-SOHC-BL
Package Includes:
Fitment: Vehicles with Mitsubishi 4G63 2.0L SOHC engines ONLY.
Installation:
PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED FOR THIS PRODUCT.
Professional installation is always recommended, products damaged through self-installation will not be refunded.
If HK5motors does not have the part in stock, you can find them on Ebay between $35.00 to $50.00 delivered.




10486 Cam Sprocket
10484
Part# FI961999
Price: $75.00 to $140.00 usually shipping from Australia
10486 Cam Sprocket
10485
Part# FI961994
Price: $150.00 usually shipping from Australia

[BradMph]

OK, My quest is almost over with the Trany Mount confusion (more like obsessed) issues. The trany mount arrived today in a Beck Arnley box as the FedEx guy rang the doorbell and ran away like a bat out of hell. Funny how these drivers take their jobs so seriously, :rolleyes:

Anyway here is the part I paid just over $5 for + shipping of $8. Notice it is from Japan also, It is most likely an OEM part which was bought up by BA. Avoid anything you buy for our trucks that comes from China. Unless you want to replace it again real soon.

105421054310544

[BradMph]

This part was wrong, I required the other one and it will arrive today. The bolt holes on this one above were too close together on that center plate. Damn I just wasted 12 bucks. The correct part cost 2 dollars and something cents. Shipping cost 3 times more then the part at $8. lol.

[BradMph]

This is the Cam Gear delivery info today.

Check this crap out from the USPS. Never fails with this bungling service of a package delivery gone stupid. Overpaid workers living at Police and fireman wages and a union that maintains their jobs even with many complaints filed on them.


July 10, 2014 , 8:31 am Out for Delivery SANDPOINT, ID 83864
Your item is out for delivery in SANDPOINT, ID 83864.

July 10, 2014 , 8:21 am Sorting Complete .SANDPOINT, ID 83864
July 10, 2014 , 7:57 am Arrival at Post Office .SANDPOINT, ID 83864
July 10, 2014 , 4:29 am Depart USPS Sort Facility .SPOKANE, WA 99224
July 10, 2014 , 12:25 am Processed through USPS Sort Facility .SPOKANE, WA 99224
July 8, 2014 , 11:25 pm Depart USPS Sort Facility .CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA 91715
July 8, 2014 , 5:42 pm Processed at USPS Origin Sort Facility .CITY OF INDUSTRY, CA 91715
July 8, 2014 , 4:27 pm Accepted at USPS Origin Sort Facility .ROWLAND HEIGHTS, CA 91748
July 8, 2014 Electronic Shipping Info Received

This reads from the bottom to the top per the travel of the shipment to the customer, (ME)

Package is sent out right, everything is AOK....
Package makes a couple stops on the way to Spokane, WA. to me.
WTF?? Package leaves Spokane, WA and is now going to Sandpoint, ID...this is about an hour from the actual delivery address posted right on the box.
The damn package had a 2 day priority delivery paid, it stops in my home town and continues on to some other address that is not on the package at all. :lmao: Well, I am not laughing so hard this time. Stupid service can't even read a label on a package. It ends up taking a scenic route to wherever land. I call the postal service in Sandpoint and the dumb bitch starts getting testy on me about how the mail service is run by humans and ladi ladi ladi la and "oh well" attitude. Gawd, friggin postal service has had over 100+ years to get it right and still can't. Fire a couple of them dip sticks and watch the packages get delivered right and the service would probably profit then.

Weird thing I notice about moving to the northwest in compare to the central west coast area of California. The employed pricks up north think that they are doing you a favor by servicing you. I miss the service in California, where if you have a problem they fix it now! no questions asked and send your on your way happy with no lip service.


I pray the trany mount delivery today by FedEx doesn't end up in Lackanookie, Bumphuk Egypt.

[BradMph]

10648

The part arrived and looks to be the right part. Going to install it now and will confirm this.

[Rahtid]

I installed the dsm cam gear last year it will work no problem,I planned on using it with the schneider cam. http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/194/gopr0067.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/5egopr0067j)http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/190/gopr0068.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/5agopr0068j)http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/215/gopr0069.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/5zgopr0069j)http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/16/gopr0070.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/0ggopr0070j)http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/444/gopr0072x.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/ccgopr0072xj)

[BradMph]

Hey RAHTID, what rocker assembly do you have on that truck. I think I will have to modify the cam gear a little because it might rub the cover. There musta been a change with cam sprocket between 86 and 87 when they went from stamped steel sprockets to casted and because when I tried to put an 87 sprocket on my 86 it touched the head or valve cover if I remember. The cam pins lengths were different also.

I got the DSM 4G63/G63B NA SOHC ADJUSTABLE ANODIZED ALUMINUM RED RACING PULLEY CAM GEAR from DPT MOTORSPORT INC

[BradMph]

Thank you for being a RockAuto customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you.

Your discount code is:

2379282822022213


Using Your Discount Code
Enter the code above in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart. If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Apply" button to the right of the field. Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your parts order total. Discount only valid for self-service orders placed online.

Please note: We sometimes get calls from people who put the word "discount" in front of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY the discount code, no other words or numbers. Code must be entered before order is submitted to receive discount.

The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices. There's no limit on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks.

This discount code expires on September 14, 2014; so don't wait!

Thanks again for buying your auto parts at RockAuto!

www.RockAuto.com
service@rockauto.com
1-608-661-1376

[DroppedMitsu]

How'd that tranny mount work out, the right one?

Don't forget we have a ROCKAUTO discount code thread. Don't worry, I added it for you.

[BradMph]

Worked out on the second one ordered. The first one had a subtle difference with the plate mounting holes to the trany. They were closer together then they should of been. So, I ordered the other Beck Arnley mount that fit perfectly.

Truck Update: running absolutely perfect. No runs, drips, leaks, burns, knocks or pings. I did have a close call though when a cap fell off a plugged temperature sensor hole I had sealed. While at a stop light, I noticed a small puff of steam from the front. I checked temp gauge and it was approaching the crack head temp real fast. Soon as the light turned green I pulled into a parking lot and stop the motor. Lifted the hood and the radiator was empty. The electric fan sensor did not pick up on the fluid dumping out and did not turn on. Gauge didn't reach the red, so I was a lucky person for always checking gauges and spotting the steam. Plugged hole with a threaded bolt this time and refilled radiator.


I forgot to add the gas mileage I am getting since the rebuild and repair. With about 100% city rural street driving I got just over 18 miles per gallon. This was a whatever I felt like driving that day mileage accumulation. I know if I was much more thoughtful about the gas pedal or freeway driving, I could easily get 4-5 miles more a gallon. I'm still enjoying the new truck engine smell right now and my foot is quite heavy on the pedal. The engine is also still seating in because my vacuum gauge is steadily climbing up towards that 21 sweet mark.

[BradMph]

I decided since law enforcement is so honest nowadays and they keep getting to be a great bunch of guys to hang around with, (cough, cough)...I would get a little extra protection from them. As well as other dishonest drivers or road rage people that think they own the road. I did some looking around at car cameras and came up with the best for the most reasonable prices. Everywhere I looked the G1 kept coming up as the camera to have. You definitely don't want some high end camera that goes over the top with extra goodies that you really won't use. You want a camera that is installed and you can forget it is even there until you need it. This of course is an accident, or some civil rights breaking police officer that crosses your path. With states and cities requiring more and more of our money, I figured I would protect my interest with video evidence.
The G1 is actually a remarkable quality camera for a small price. It has everything I needed and that was great quality video and good audio with no bells and whistles that are just un-needed.
It has great programming qualities with overlap video, it records for hours before rewriting over old recordings. Night vision is actually what got me sold with the quality it produced at 1080p @ 30fps / H.264. Also has an impact start record option that will start the camera and record in case your not around to see it. Though remember the camera faces one direction and can't always catch the culprits. The list goes on and on so I figured I would post the product I purchased for others to look into if they wanted.
I'm sure you all watched those videos on YouTube of those car accidents and crazy shit happening, as well as that meteor coming down in Russia recorded by a car cam. The benefits are unlimited if you drive out there in the jungle. Just think how many times you had an issue driving in just one day, lol...or maybe it's just me.
Anyway, this is the stuff I ended up with and one important thing about these cameras is to be sure your not getting a counterfeit camera from some unreliable company in china somewhere. Be sure to get the guarantee of authenticity of the processor chip inside and that it records in .MOV and not .AVI mode. There are also a few versions of this camera. I decided on the G1W for the 140 degree wide angle view, they also have a less angle version for less and they also have a battery and capacitor version camera. So, it's up to you on those issues depending on what suits your liking and location. They recommend the capacitor version in hot areas due to battery life issues in those warmer locations.

11164
(click image to expand)

Here is my posted YouTube video of the Car Camcorder right out of the box with no changes in settings, setup or formatting of the SD memory card. It is recorded in 1080p HD and with the SD memory card purchased separately.
I edited and transferred the video to YouTube in the camera's native format of .MOV so degradation is at it's most minimal if any. Be sure your YouTube video settings for this video are set to 1080p for full reality quality displayed. Enjoy!

DAYTIME VIDEO
Watching the video on the YouTube website will give you the option to go full screen as well.

http://youtu.be/kdmHcToTON0

NIGHT TIME VIDEO

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-ksfD73Pps&feature=youtu.be

[geezer101]

Not sure if this post needs to be in this particular thread, but unfortunately it is fast becoming one of those 'things' you may very well end up needing. Russia is having major problems with auto insurance fraud turning into an Olympic event and as a result literally everyone there has a dash cam. Look up downloaded footage on youtube, grab a bucket of pop corn and watch acts of stupidity as these lunatics turn do their best to earn Darwin awards (I spotted some footage of a guy crawling under a moving truck, then realising he was being filmed so he quickly scooted out from under there - not like he was going to need those legs anyway...) *be warned that some of the content is disturbing on these video compilations

[BradMph]

Ordered intake adapter for under the Weber and should be installing it sometime soon. Also have another Cam sprocket that is the corrected version and shouldn't have to modify it at all for installation.

11371

[pennyman1]

post the info on the cam sprocket once you are sure it fits...

[BradMph]

Addco Handling Book

Located this pdf file booklet that discusses handling from a pretty well known suspension company that still manufactures sway bars for our trucks. If you would like to have this book you can download it here below.


11460

[BradMph]

Back in the Garage for updates.

We pulled the truck into the garage to make some changes in the engine bay and interior. Here is the progress and changes.

We are installing a carb adapter hi-rise for the weber. I'm also replacing the first gen intake manifold for an updated 2nd gen version. The work involved is quite a pain, but it can be done with careful cutting and grinding. I first had to turn my 2nd gen intake over to a welder for some minor repairs to the distributor lock down bolt fitting, which was broken by the prior owner. Checking on Craig's list for help, I found the same guy that welded my bracket on my Toyota MR2 when I replaced the metal engine cover to the Supercharged fiberglass engine cover. He only lives around the corner from me and charges a very reasonable price for his service. He repaired the intake dizzy lock down housing bolt area and plugged a fluid hole under carb plate. He put a good amount of material back on and I am grinding and re-tapping this now. Charged $40 and was done in about 20 minutes.
11630====>Broken view11644

The adapter for the carb needed work inside and on the mating flats as you can see it came out decent. I kept the roughness so it could still break up fuel into a spray.
11631

The intake came next and there is some extensive work involved for this. You can just install the adapter if you like, but I went farther and started machining the primary & secondary port holes into a single opening. You first have to remove the primary steel ring sleeve that is in place, then cut and grind the bridge out of the intake. Take your time if you try this because you only have one chance to get it right.
116321163311634

As I machined the intake I would place the adapter on to check my fit. It's almost perfect, but a little more work and it will be right.
116351163611637

On the intake primary port after the steel ring is removed, there is a EGR port cavity that needs to be looked at. I decided to fix this with JB Weld - SteelStik which is reinforced with actual steel in the 2 part epoxy. The epoxy is 100% fuel safe and should last longer then I will live at this point.
1163811639

Work progresses.


I also repainted my door panels which had these orange-ish stripe panels on black. I decided to go all black and used the VHT Vinyl spray paint.
11640
I cannot say enough about this vinyl spray paint. It is by far the most superior vinyl paint I have ever used. While painting, it may look like it will turn out like crap. Just give it time to dry and as it does you will not believe the quality it turns out for you. It's wearing factor and lasting time is 5 stars and there is nothing better. You do not have to fear spray painting interior automotive parts again, this stuff always turns out professional.
1164111642

I also installed a new Pioneer CD stereo with MP3 and remote. I'm not a hard core bumping bass person, though I like good sound and occasionally loud. This unit was so underpriced I couldn't resist. Purchased from BestBuy for about $65, plus a $5 dollar discount on my membership card, sweet. The reviews are what sold me on buying it and this thing sounds great. Works well with my 500watt amp and 2 Pioneer and 2 Polk audio speakers.
11643

I'll keep you updated on the adapter and intake replacing.

After the above is all completed, I am installing an aftermarket adjustable Cam timing sprocket. These sprockets are much thicker then the stock sprocket gears, so the upper cover will need some thought on how to extend it outward to accommodate the thicker gear. I have thought about a clear acrylic cover using a torch to heat the acrylic and forming it around the original upper cover. but this would take another set of hands and I only have 2. Though it could work by placing the acrylic on a board with a hole cut into it. Then placing the stock timing cover on the acrylic with some weight on top of the cover. Then from under the acrylic use the torch and slowly heat the acrylic. Slowly or you will cause the acrylic to create mini bubbles in it and it will no longer be clear. As it heats up, the weight over the timing cover sinks the acrylic and forms to the cover very nicely. Cut the flashing off the acrylic and Wha Laa!.

I think I am going to go with just a wider rubber gasket, just like the one in the cover already. The nice groove that is already there and perhaps a 1/2 to 3/4in rubber belt will seal off this cover and protect the inside from road grime and crap. Some have just cut a hole in the cover to allow the gear to fit behind it, but then, why have a cover at all. You really want to keep this area free from microscopic dust and particles since the moving parts in there are very susceptible to a self destruction and dirt will make it happen much sooner.

[BradMph]

Here are the 2 manifolds together again.
11652

You can see the changes that Mitsubishi made to them in one year, though they are interchangeable on the G63B engine.

Here is what I did with the JB Weld.
11653
Filled the EGR cavity and smoothed it out.
You also can see the steel ring that is installed at factory on the 1st gen intake. I guess it disperses the exhaust gases as they are shoved back down the throat of the engine for re-digesting. The EGR sort of reminds me of making an engine eat it's own shit again.

This doesn't seal up the port holes because I have already capped them at the EGR mounting area on the lower intake. This is more of an air flow fix since the intakes both have this cavity that would disrupt the flow into the cylinders. The bridge gap has also been removed, like in my prior post showed and leaves a little bit more opening for the engine to swallow up good air. It's not a huge change, but it should make a difference in performance. The adapter I am installing under the weber is suppose to deliver more torque and power to the lower end and this has been my goal with the truck. With all the mods so far, this engine has definitely improved a lot. It no longer just walks through the gears, it gets up off it's ass and accelerates much faster.
I should have it back together tonight and running, but I have other work to take care of before I pull it back out of the garage.

[BradMph]

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I have a question concerning some braking issue I have had for a while.
In a panic or very short, harder then normal stop, my truck will almost stall. This has done this with the old original carb and weber carb. Camoit mentioned to me one time it was the big brake booster against the firewall that was the problem. My lines are tight and new hoses from the unit, but no change. I was wondering if anyone else had this problem and replaced booster to fix it. Also has anyone rebuilt one of these brake boosters before. There about $80 for a remanufactured one, so rebuilding I guess is feasible, though I have never heard of a rebuild kit for one.

Let me know!

[pennyman1]

Geronimo has been doing this for awhile - it can be a symptom of a high float level shutting off the fuel, or low fuel flow. It usually happens to me on a hard stop going downhill. Doesn't happen to me too often, so I haven't bothered to find out why. The booster can cause this, but it would do it more often than a panic stop.

[BradMph]

I check the float level on the carb and it is perfect to factory Weber specs. Before checking, one float was lower then the other by a millimeter and I leveled them and corrected the float in bowl. I increased jet size on mixture jets by one size since the mods have been done. This brake thing is getting frustrating cause not only am I in a panic stop, I am trying to peddle play the gas to make the truck stay running.



Geronimo has been doing this for awhile - it can be a symptom of a high float level shutting off the fuel, or low fuel flow. It usually happens to me on a hard stop going downhill. Doesn't happen to me too often, so I haven't bothered to find out why. The booster can cause this, but it would do it more often than a panic stop.

[BradMph]

Well tonight was a good night and I got a ton of work done. I completed the High-Rise Weber adapter and it came out nicely.
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I then installed the new adjustable cam sprocket.
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I used the same sprocket bolt, but I had to change the washer to a thinner one so I could catch more threads on the bolt. I torqued the bolt to 70lbs which it has a max of 72lbs. The sprocket fits very tight to tolerance with the timing cover. The bottom cover was ok, but very close. The top cover I had to shave a couple of millimeters off the bottom. I wanted to stick with the cover on the truck and the only way to do this is by spacing it out about 5 millimeters. So this is what I did to accomplish this.
The cover has a small rubber seal inside the rim of it. I decided that this would be the way to allow more room for the new wider sprocket. So I went to the auto parts store and purchase the shortest serpentine fan belt they had. The owner took me to the back and we looked through the belts and I found one I thought would do the job. I had to cut the belt to a proper size in length and then cut one rib off the serpentine grooves for the correct distance over the sprocket. I then pushed the belt into the existing groove in the cover after removing the small original rubber seal. This fit perfectly and was also sturdy enough to maintain the covers distance from rubbing the new sprocket. This also sealed the cover from inhaling dirt and road dust into the timing cover area. For the bottom portion of the cover seal, I used a piece of sticky one side rubber door seal and attached it to the lower timing cover to seal off the upper cover lower end. It all worked great and the sprocket is free from rubbing.
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We will keep an eye on the install for a few days to make sure nothing freaky happens that might happen. All and all it went together pretty nicely and should not cause a problem. We will also make some time adjusting later after it is found to be secure enough.


I completed installing the gauge lights into my aftermarket gauges and wired them up to the dash. Now everything works and I have a nice red lighted dash and the matching gauges.

Tomorrow the truck gets a bath and we finish removing the window tint glue that didn't come off during the old tint removal. It's not to bad since I used a heat gun to remove the old stuff. Remember if you ever tint your windows, always use the good window tint. You don't want it to turn purple after the sun has beat on it and you also want it to be UV protecting and contain real metal if available. Saves your interior and the side of your face when the sun is kicking ass on you.

[BradMph]

Ordered a freeze plug block warmer for the truck this year since we have such wonderful weather here during the winter. I decided on this freeze plug type since I wouldn't have to molest my lower radiator hose with an inline hose heater and extra clamps. In addition to directly warming the block, compared to heating just the hose. The installation is quite secure with a butterfly molly type of plug install. The part is from Zerostart and built very well.
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Zerostart also has a part catalog that shows exactly where these things need to be installed at. One freeze plug will need to be removed to install.
Here is their catalog.
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Installed it on Dec. 3rd and had a little ordeal on the freeze plug removal. Gave the plug a couple hits with a screw driver and hammer to pop a hole in it to remove it and the damn thing fell inside the block, lmao. That's not suppose to happen. Anyway, I grabbed a coat hanger and curled the end and fished for it about an hour. I must of let it slip back into block 20 times before I decided to get tough with it.
I finally got it up to where I could grab a drill and I drilled a hole in it. I then grab some vise grips and crimped an allen wrench into it with the bent end outward.
I carefully coat hangered the punched in freeze plug up to the opening again , stuck the allen wrench through the hole I drilled in the plug and worked the plug cap to the opening. I turned it a bit until I found a spot that the plug was angled and stuck in the opening again. I then grabbed the vise grip with both hands and pulled that plug out.. Wheew, that was a close one...lol. Installed the block warmer and we are in business.

[jdmckay]

Good Morning,

Hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas!

...

Just finished Weber/electric fuel pump installation Wednesday. Took my little truck out for about 20 minutes, put a big simile on my face. Runs very very well, far better then at any time since I bought it (about 3 yrs. ago, just after which mikuni carb/jet valve/oil pum and more all began to fail). I posted elsewhere this motor went of local rebuilder shortly thereafter including motor R&R, he screwed everything imaginable up and the truck has been sitting ever since.

Turns out I had blown head gasket (never overheated, no consensus amongst my friends who looked at it why it failed). Had head redone, reinstalled along w/Weber etc.

According to speedometer truck had under 130k original miles.

After test drive, took about 15 minutes looking everywhere for leaks. Fuel hookups/coolant leak free. But... and this was present before head gasket blew and I parked it, my MM leaked a good pint of oil from rear seal just during this "leak check". I'm going to fix this in next few day. I've never done (install on engine stand or replace from underneath) a rear seal, would really appreciate best/detailed advice.

So several questions:





6553
Notice the rear main seal parts above. You need to oil the seal and the crankshaft a lot so that the seal does not flip the seal lip over while sliding it into place. Grab both sides of the seal and turn it as your pushing it on, sort of like driving a car and turning wheel back and forth. Do it evenly until it cannot go any further. The next thing to put on is the seal ring. This will determine if you’re going to have a leak or not, if done wrong. The ring has to go on the seal and protect it. The ring also has a hole on one edge that looks like a drain hole or lube hole. This hole must be at the bottom or 6 o'clock position when placed onto engine.

I'm looking at NAPA's seal/gasket set (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Rear-Main-Seal-Set/_/R-FPBBS404081_0147561465#), which does not appear to include the "seal ring" you describe. Should I expect to see this when I drop trans? ... or do I need to purchase one?

mikewarme recommends (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/569-Rear-Main-Seal?p=4796&viewfull=1#post4796) a "repair sleeve". I found one herehttp://www.discountautoparts.com/catalog-1/itemdetail/national-seals/99315 for about $35, NAPA's main store here has one (they call it speedy slave) for about $55.

That's the part mikewarme describes, correct?

How is this installed, specifically relative to the catalogue diagram BradMPH posted above?



But, before it goes on you need to put this stuff called anaerobic sealer on the seal and the ring's lower 1/2. This special sealer glue will not dry when left in the plain air; it only hardens when everything is bolted together and creates an air tight seal from the air. This glue stuff keeps the rear main seal from spinning and leaking and seals the ring up against the main seal. This is important if you want the seal to not leak.

Thanks for that Brad.

This rebuild has been a nightmare with bad builder... turned into about $3500 spent total. Too close to having things nice to not finish it up well. Not having done seal before, a bit nervous and doing my best to look into this in detail so I get it right the first time.

FWIW, purpose in this restoration is to simply have a very dependable old truck that I don't have to worry about taking out across a few states (planning trip to Spokane late this spring). Paint is faded, a couple little nicks in body here & there. Plan on leaving it that way, just want reliable. Already redone wheel bearings, u-joints, a few broken window cranks and such... it's pretty solid except for finishing up what I describe here.

Thanks in advance.

[jdmckay]

Looking at Brad's photo here (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=10468&d=1403508441), he's put a filter on top of the nipple at rear of the valve cover.

In photos I took before disassembly/beginning this project, I had hose going from this nipple to stock air cleaner housing.

My Weber kit came with a plastic nipple matching hose size for that valve cover nipple, and I had assumed I would get hose to connect from that valve cover nipple to my Weber filter housing (hole for included plastic nipple is on bottom of Air Clearner housing, adjacent to block). Is this appropriate/recomended?... or is their good reason to do as Brad's done (filter) w/the Weber setup?

I've read elsewhere here, if I understood correctly, this routing could result in water vapor making it's way back into engine oil.

Appreciate any clarification on this.

Thx.

[pennyman1]

The fitting on the valve cover can be routed to the fitting supplied with the weber air cleaner, but the vent filter on the valve cover fitting works too to vent the valve cover. It keeps the oily fumes from crudding up the air filter. The original idea for that line was to reburn the fumes from the crankcase in the motor, but it causes more problems than it fixes.

[jdmckay]

Thanks Penman, makes sense. Think I'll go with filter as w/Brad's setup.

Something else just came up: checking for leaks, found good volume of oil shooting (literally... almost stready, find droplet stream) from rear valve cover area directly where the "1/2 circle plug" sits. Just finished replacing both valve cover gasket & plug... same leak. I sealed it with Permatex Indian Head Gasket Compound. I put an extra thick application on top of the plug because it's top edge seems to reside a bit below valve cover mating surface on the head. Waited good 30 minutes after assembly before firing it up.

Thinking next try at this is to try a bead of RTV silicone on top of the plug. That gap between top edge of plug and valve cover mating surface bugs me, not all that comfortable with any of my options I see right now (including RTV fix I mention)... concerned about "squeezed out" RTV getting loose and gumming up oiling ports.

Is there tried/true fix for this I'm missing?

[pennyman1]

RTV on the 1/2 circle plug is the way to seal it - put rtv on the head in the circle and put the rubber piece in then the valve cover with gasket. lay the bead of rtv to the back of the head and you will be fine.

[jdmckay]

Thanks again, will give that a shot this morning.

One other thing: seen/read threads on vacuum advance from Weber to distributor. My distributor has 2 vacuum nipples: I'll describe them as closet to dizzy shaft, and furthest. I spoke with people at TopEnd Performance (where I bought my Weber), they said it didn't matter which dizzy nipple I connected to, just cap the unused one.

Is that correct information?

Thx.

[tink]

I decided since law enforcement is so honest nowadays and they keep getting to be a great bunch of guys to hang around with, (cough, cough)...I would get a little extra protection from them. As well as other dishonest drivers or road rage people that think they own the road. I did some looking around at car cameras and came up with the best for the most reasonable prices. Everywhere I looked the G1 kept coming up as the camera to have. You definitely don't want some high end camera that goes over the top with extra goodies that you really won't use. You want a camera that is installed and you can forget it is even there until you need it. This of course is an accident, or some civil rights breaking police officer that crosses your path. With states and cities requiring more and more of our money, I figured I would protect my interest with video evidence.
The G1 is actually a remarkable quality camera for a small price. It has everything I needed and that was great quality video and good audio with no bells and whistles that are just un-needed.
It has great programming qualities with overlap video, it records for hours before rewriting over old recordings. Night vision is actually what got me sold with the quality it produced at 1080p @ 30fps / H.264. Also has an impact start record option that will start the camera and record in case your not around to see it. Though remember the camera faces one direction and can't always catch the culprits. The list goes on and on so I figured I would post the product I purchased for others to look into if they wanted.
I'm sure you all watched those videos on YouTube of those car accidents and crazy shit happening, as well as that meteor coming down in Russia recorded by a car cam. The benefits are unlimited if you drive out there in the jungle. Just think how many times you had an issue driving in just one day, lol...or maybe it's just me.
Anyway, this is the stuff I ended up with and one important thing about these cameras is to be sure your not getting a counterfeit camera from some unreliable company in china somewhere. Be sure to get the guarantee of authenticity of the processor chip inside and that it records in .MOV and not .AVI mode. There are also a few versions of this camera. I decided on the G1W for the 140 degree wide angle view, they also have a less angle version for less and they also have a battery and capacitor version camera. So, it's up to you on those issues depending on what suits your liking and location. They recommend the capacitor version in hot areas due to battery life issues in those warmer locations.

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(click image to expand)

Here is my posted YouTube video of the Car Camcorder right out of the box with no changes in settings, setup or formatting of the SD memory card. It is recorded in 1080p HD and with the SD memory card purchased separately.
I edited and transferred the video to YouTube in the camera's native format of .MOV so degradation is at it's most minimal if any. Be sure your YouTube video settings for this video are set to 1080p for full reality quality displayed. Enjoy!

DAYTIME VIDEO
Watching the video on the YouTube website will give you the option to go full screen as well.

http://youtu.be/kdmHcToTON0

NIGHT TIME VIDEO

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8-ksfD73Pps&feature=youtu.be

I see this is an old post but *** THANK YOU *** for posting the vids on here!!! I Will Be Getting This for my b-day, lol. I had no idea what I wanted until your videos THANK YOU! Already on Amazon list. I don't think I've cursed so many times in a row over something so exciting (vs. insane politics) in years, LOL. Very super awesome. Much thanks!!!

[jdmckay]

RTV on the 1/2 circle plug is the way to seal it - put rtv on the head in the circle and put the rubber piece in then the valve cover with gasket. lay the bead of rtv to the back of the head and you will be fine.

That did the trick!!! Thanks.

[BradMph]

Hey folks, glad I can help with my postings and installations. I continue to post here when it comes to need, but since my truck has been doing really well lately I haven't had to enter any fixes or updates. I have also been busy with this '85 Thunderbird I bought and tearing it down for some high performance updates and overall fixing.

Thanks for your compliments, its nice to know that I can help with information that I have placed here.

Also, Thank You Pennyman for stepping in and giving help as well. Your very appreciated and welcome to post anytime on this thread. :)

[BradMph]

Got some weird thing with the temp gauge that just started after this cold weather just rolled in. I have been using the block heater and it works very well, but a few days later my temp gauge climbed to about 3/4 to the top. It generally sits about 1/4 the way up on the gauge. I check the engine and seems to be not as hot as the gauge showed it should be. So, I drove it for the next few more days and it was trying to climb a little higher each day. It finally got to a point that I was not going to trust it anymore and replaced the thermostat with a 180. I'm thinking that the block heater somehow worked the thermostat and it possibly caused it to not open completely. I have not tested the truck yet with the new install, but will relay it here when I do.
The truck rarely sometimes gets a grounding problem I am guessing with that left side temp/fuel gauge. The gauge will stop working on a first start in the morning or whenever. Once started, if I slap the dash right above the gauge, it reconnects and both needles move to their normal position. It has not gotten worse, so I have let this go unchecked.
If the gauge repeats what it just started doing, I will install a new gauge to verify if it's the gauge taking a dump or the engine actually increasing temperature.
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[pennyman1]

Sounds like a cold solder joint on the back of the cluster - reflow the joints first before replacing the gauges.

[BradMph]

Good Idea Pennyman, That will be in the check list if I can't solve it using easy methods. I get occasional right blinker issues too and probably needs re-flow. The blinker will work 95% of the time and when it decides to glitch, it's only the light in the dash that stops working. I can hear the blinker relay noise and all lights are working but the in dash one. I Guess I can't expect things to keep working for 29 years problem free, though it has lasted well over its expected time. :)


UPDATE: After replacing the thermostat, the truck's temp gauge is still rising strangely and determined that it probably is a (as Pennyman mentioned) solder point that has broken ground contacts partially. Will check for this issue later when time and weather permit.

[BradMph]

The Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch

I decided to put a plug here for this type of fuel cut off switch for all the folks that use Oil Safety Switches, which can be a PIA sometimes to install.
This switch is the Ford's version of a fuel cut off switch and is an inertia impact button release switch. Other car manufactures make these also, but I decided to post the Ford switch because of it's reset ability of the red button reset. This switch will shut fuel pumps off in the case of an impact and save you from possibly burning in a fuel fire. Electric fuel pumps can continue to pump fuel after an accident occurs and could very well cause severe injuries to you and the people in the vehicle. Fuel cut off types of switches should not be neglected or left out if you have update from a manual fuel pump to the electric fuel pump.

The Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch
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The Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch is a relay of sorts, so it gets to be on this page. This little relay is in your car to save your life from fire by shutting off the fuel pump in the event of an accident. It cuts the power to the fuel pumps when a predetermined force is applied. Just like a circuit breaker the red button pops up when it is tripped. It consists of a steel ball held in place by a magnet. When a sharp impact occurs, the ball breaks loose from the magnet, rolls up and strikes a target which opens the electrical contacts of the switch and shuts off the electric fuel pump. It must be mounted straight up to work correctly. On some vehicles a fuel reset light will illuminate on the dash.

[pennyman1]

Although a good idea, this type of device can also trip when hitting a pothole or curb and shut down your fuel pump for the wrong reason. This becomes an issue if used on a lowered vehicle that contacts the bump stops due to shortened suspension travel. I have been in tha gas station when people have come in off the road and hit a bump or went over the entrance or sewer grate, and after filling the car, could not start until the cutoff switch was reset. I would never use this in place of the oil pressure safety switch - it can be added as an extra precaution.

[BradMph]

If it's engaging hitting a curb or pot hole, it may need to be moved closer to the center of the vehicle possibly. Though I think Ford would be very busy if these were engaging on vehicles hitting small bumps or curbs you think. IMO if Ford uses them for such a safety device and checked by the regulations required for such a device then there must be some quality with them. They use the ball and tube type of detection devices in other forms like with air bag deployment, among other triggers set around the vehicle.
I can understand what your saying and that our trucks are maybe a bit more prone to respond from a curb or hole harder then most vehicles. But, oil pressure switches have querks as well. Idling for one and if the pressure drops below the set allowance of the unit it will shut down. As well, if involved in an accident where the oil switch is supposedly to shut down the motor will not always happen. Cars don't always shut down even in a rollover. My experience in a roll over I had and my car continued to run until I shut it off.
The oil switch is a good tool for loss of oil pressure, that's what it is intended for and to save your engine. So if oil pressure drops, it in turn shuts the motor off through the fuel relay then to the fuel pump. I personally would use a dummy light to come on instead of shutting my engine down. The light would tell you faster that oil pressure is below level and to do something quick. The engine just shutting down as your driving due to the oil switch would be confusing I think.
But, I do agree on using both, perhaps that would be within reason. But, some people are putting in these oil switches thinking that will shut the Electric fuel pumps off in an accident. I would not want to stake myself on just an oil switch and hope for the best that my engine stopped running and power to fuel pump stopped in a collision. Oil pressure dropping because a collision is not a common occurrence especially in a rear-ender.

[jdmckay]

I can understand what your saying and that our trucks are maybe a bit more prone to respond from a curb or hole harder then most vehicles. But, oil pressure switches have querks as well. Idling for one and if the pressure drops below the set allowance of the unit it will shut down. As well, if involved in an accident where the oil switch is supposedly to shut down the motor will not always happen.

I asked multiple places... to AirTex' technical people when I was tryng to find an oil sensor switch, scouring my Chilton's manual, but never got a good answer: would be helpful to know G63B's oil pressure both when motor is cranking before a start, and at normal idle. AirTex' tech offered his best guess based on experience as a Chevy mechanic for several decades, saying GM 350's were min. 12 lbs @ idle... surmised G63B would not be much less.

Switch I settled on activated with low pressure (AirTex 1S6559):

- Terminal "P" to "S"- Normally closed 0-1.5 PSI
- Terminal "P" to "I"- Normally open 0-1.5 PSI
- Terminal "P" to "S"- Normally open 6 PSI and above
- Terminal "P" to "I"- Normally closed 6 PSI and above

Anyone w/an oil pressure gauge tell us pressure at idle?

Another thing I found out (the hard way): not all these switches manufactured to the same standard. Internal parts (conductors) used vary amongst manufacturers. 1st one I bought (so I could get it locally & avoid wait from shipping) was cross referenced from the above AirTex switch to Borg Werer: if failed immediately ("I" connector broke internally after 1st hookup). Asking @ our NAPA main store in ABQ, one of the old hands there said they carried 2 separate brands (Standard was premium, don't recall "value" brand) and that the value brand's internal quality was insufficient for application I was relying on. One would never know this just reading packaging (I could never verify on Borg Werner's site the pressures at which switch I mention activates).

Wells provides this info, as does AirTex: they both make many similar/identical switches, but both of them make several the others don't. Seems to be consensus Standard makes high quality switches, but they don't provide the specs (at least that I could find).

I guess, to summarize: in order for relying on switch to be reliable protection for the safety issue we're talking about here, both the quality and pressure ranges of the switch matter a lot.

[pennyman1]

as far as the idling shutoff problem - my first switch was a holley switch which had a small hole into the housing - it plugged one day with sludge somehow and I had to jump it out to get home. I then went to a GM monza oil pressure switch - it has a large hole and never clogged - afetr 20 years the seals went in it and it started shooting oil on the exhaust header through the terminals - surprizingly the motor did not shut off despite the massive oil leak, but at the rate it was leaking, my oil would not have been high enough for long.

[BradMph]

They do matter jdmk. The good ole oil switch should save an engine in it's own rights, if it is correctly made. I think the oil pressures range with our trucks as well. The range of older trucks have typical lower pressure. If I remember right, mine would slowly sink to 10-15 easily before rebuild and installing the larger factory oil pump. Now at idle it's about 25-30 and early morning it can really climb up. :grin: Type of oil probably can change the gauge too. I think we need to find the one that would be the best for our application for it's usage. Having one that could possibly shut you down with just a low oil pressure could be frustrating. I think the ranges you have shown are in the ball park for what would work great. Personally I still like a red light on the dash to get my attention, in turn will get me to look at my after market oil gauge for details. But, if your on the freeway and that oil pressure stops...you probably will be rebuilding a motor. I think our trucks need water temp sensor switches more also. The record for cracked heads from over heating radiators out weigh oil loss issues 10 fold.

[jdmckay]

Thanks Brad.

Briefly, I'm pleased w/operation of my oil switch... behaving just as it should. Truck runs like a top... couldn't be happier.

Still 2 do is install vacuum guage, per your excellent article here on what that can tell us. I will be installing oil pressure/coolant temp guages as well. I'll re-torque head bolts @ +/- 500 miles after this head replacement.

I'm running Valvoline full synthetic: motor has just over 6k after complete rebuild. Ran Valvoline conventional until pouring in syn this time.

FWIW, when I was restoring SAAB's did a pretty thorough investigation into motor oils. Some very very good, thorough testing done out there I was surprised to find. Of the conventional, Castrol proved the best... Valvoline a very close 2nd. NAPA's house brand is Valvoline, and I always stocked up when they ran sales every few months... can get if about 1/2 price.

I was very convincingly persuaded then (when I researched oil) that, accounting for all the things people debate forever on one side or another, good quality synthetic in well rebuilt (or new) motor after break-in is the way to go.

...

This last repair cost considerably more then I planned... with head work, gaskets/head bolts/wiring & fittings, and having to eat 1st elec. fuel pump I bought (was incompatable: RockAuto would not take a return) I spent about $900. With orginal R & R motor rebuild a couple years ago and everything I had to do to fix his shoddy work, total is somewhere around $2800. Or, a lot more then it should have cost or could have.

A lot of that was my bad: I didn't research/get to know this truck under the hood before that... didn't check up on builder like I should have (was just too busy then)... this kind'a thing just happens whrn I turn this level of work over to someone who I haven't verified to my satisfaction.

So w/that said... given attention to detail I gave this last round of repairs, performance of the truck w/the Weber properly installed, replacement of all the driveline/suspension parts I did, I'm pretty confident this little truck is going to be solid/reliable for a long time. In the long run, having spent an extra $1k more then I should have... not all that big a deal. Couldn't get another similar truck, in this kind of shape... anywhere close to that.

Paint is badly faded, but body is actually in very good shape... nothing worse then surface scratches. Only "crunch" is on front/passenger side fender.

Will probably pull motor/give it the paint job it deserves this summer.

Still a couple (unrelated to latest work) minor things that need fixing:

- just before I parked it 2 years ago, horn stopped working. Traced it back to steering well (where you press to activate horn) and pulled that assembly apart. Before I could get it fixed (days), the head gasket blew and it got parked. I twiddled with replacing contacts and reassembling, but getting that together looks like a puzzle at the moment. If anyone's done that appreciate being pointed to the how-to.

- "Brake" light is stuck on. I re-did brakes just before motor rebuild couple years ago... brakes are essentially new. Double checked 'em after last big test drive, brakes are fine. Most be a bad sensor and/or switch somewhere, but I haven't looked into this yet.

Other then that, truck's as close to perfect as I could have imagined... mechanically, turned out better then my most optimistic hope.

Put in new radiator at motor rebuild, am confident of cooling (you mention over heating problems). If there's one thing I would have done different, it would have been replacing the head w/a new non-jet-valve-machine head rather then "plugging" jet valves on the original.

[BradMph]

Sometimes if you know your going to spend a lot of money on engine, take a look at car-part.com. Many places have no problem delivering one. I over spent on the truck too. Parts are expensive on these things, I got a pair of chrome headers for a ford 302 cheaper then a single header on the truck.

I like Castrol because the internal engine metal stays almost like new with that. Definitely don't want a wax oil. 20-50 I used for 275k miles. I should of went synthetic like you have. That oil is the best stuff. Though if changed from reg oil to synth later on say, it begins to drip a lot on the driveway. It gets worse and worse if it's left in the motor.

[jdmckay]

Sometimes if you know your going to spend a lot of money on engine, take a look at car-part.com. Many places have no problem delivering one. I over spent on the truck too. Parts are expensive on these things, I got a pair of chrome headers for a ford 302 cheaper then a single header on the truck.

Ok, you (inadvertently) squeezing "the story" on this truck.

Wife & I had began a remodel of our mid-50's house here in ABQ in 2008. Long story short: we have a (very mildly) pitched roof. She had the house before we married in '04, and had never been up there or had it checked. Some asphalt tiles had blown off, so I went up to inspect prepared to simply re-roof (remove old tile, new tar paper and tile). Turns out somewhere along the line, someone had that asphalt tile installed directly over tar and gavel. The gravel was popping through all over.

When I got the tile up, turns out they'd put somewhere north of 6 layers tar/gravel underneath (maximum by code is 2), and the weight had begun collapsing the roof rafters. Had to strip entire roof structure down to ceiling and rebuild.

I was a tradesman for first 18 yrs of adult life (floor covering contractor)... done all this work many times. Been tennis coach and computer programmer for 20 yrs, and hadn't done any major work since I "got off my knees" (I'm 59).

I bought this truck from (literally) a little old lady down the street... used the truck w/her husband for missionary work in the summers in Mexico. Her husband had just died and I drove by the first morning she had a for sale sign on it. She had receipt for motor rebuild at 79k miles (had 119 when I bought it), and it ran fine. I liked these things because of it's large load carrying capacity... almost a ton. Good for all the runs to building supply for stuff I'd need to finish house.

Ran great for about... 3 months, then quickly got to the point it would barely ascend 5% grade up to our house. Taking it to a few local mechanics (one of which best in town... did a lot of work for us when I didn't have time for repairs on our vehicles) and quickly found out there was literally nobody in town familiar with these things, much less their quirks. All kinds of diagnosis/attempts at repar that didn't work... carb work, fuel lines replaced and some other "guesses".

I got on Google finally for a few hours and found an obscure "service bulletin" from Chrysler to it's dealers on these things from earluy 90's. It described my symptoms precisely as caused by clogged jet valves. I had never heard of Jet Valves!!!

That led to more Googling, and finally finding Top End Performance in LA... experts in these motors. When I finally got my head around ongoing problems with Jet Valves, found best remedy (if head not cracked) to plug them... then that original Carb had been out of production for a long time and did not rebuild well, began thinking about entire rebuild and Weber rather then fixing a few things and hoping for the best. 2 things sealed this decision:

- The shop that rebuilt motor for the lady I bought it from was still in business (she'd used him for years). Went and talked to him: he did no machining of block, checking/miking block, and did not redo the head (no machine work there whatsoever). So I didn't really have a rebuilt motor, just a few new parts in there
- considerable oil leaking from the oil pump seal.

Other research indicated problems with the balance shafts... both originally and better then original replacements.

Only reason I chose builder I chose: out of 5 shops I checked with, he was the only one familiar with jet valve issues and fixes (plugs) and balance shaft kits. All the reputable motor rebuild houses that would ship here were not familiar with any of this. So this guy won me over with this knowledge.

He turned out to be a fraud.

Made one trip with that truck to pick up what turned out to be about 1900 lbs of tar paper from a contractor going out of biz because of building crunch (got it for pennies on the $$), and drove that truck home on freeway with a load a GMC 3/4 ton would have a tough time with. No problem.

And that was the last use I got out of it for the purpose I bought if for (house rebuild)... came back from builder smoking like a '58 studebaker and it was all downhill from there.

I had an '86 SAAB 900 and '91 Alpha Spyder in the driveway (SAAB 95% rebuilt then, Alpha maybe 50%... motor done but needed new interior/exterior. Was driveable though... great little car). My Mighty Max got moved to the end of that line... just now got to it.

SAAB & Alpha both gone, no more project cars... I'm a MM guy now!!! (hope it will be my daily drive for years).


[/QUOTE]I like Castrol because the internal engine metal stays almost like new with that. Definitely don't want a wax oil. 20-50 I used for 275k miles.[/QUOTE]

Agree w/all that... very good performance for Castrol: no Penzoil or Quaker state ever in any of my cars.

I've ran a lot of Valvoline over the years and had very good luck with that as well. But research I read showed Castrol a smidge better. But... seems like most of Castrol's benefits show up in more high performance motors... running @ high RPMS, or turbo'd etc. The other thing, for motors running at modest rpms and driven conservatively: oil has just gotten so expensive. Castrol probably on sale somewhere from time to time but I haven't seen it.

We had (at that time) not a couple cars, but (for just the 2 of us and our octogenerian parents living with us) a fricking fleet... 6 of 'em including MM.

I did a lot of oil changes. Discount in NAPA (Valvoline) bought on sale added up.

FWIW, I think CarQuest's house brand of oil is Valvoline as well.

Got a case of NAPA 5/30 (what I use in winters here) last time for 1.57 p/qt. Castrol or Valvoline off the shelf here, now just under $6.!!!


I should of went synthetic like you have. That oil is the best stuff, but for an engine already running ash oil, then you switch to synth.... it starts leaking all over the driveway.

How true that is... additives to the synthetic eat up older seals/gaskets. Also "knocks off" (dissolves) cludge, which added to the mix is like sandpaper in there. I've explained this to a few friends who bought trucks with "tired" motors, were excited and wanted to "treat 'em right" by pouring in Syn: didn't hear what i said, and still have large oil stained driveways reminding them of that hard lesson forever!!!

You're in Spokane, right? My 93 yr. old mom lives there now... in a big "retirement facility" on So. Hill near the big Morman Church (forget street names). I'm planning on driving my MM up there to see here this summer... take some of the back roads through UTAH and WYOMING I've never seen on the way. Maybe when I get there we could have a bite to eat, look under the hoods and chew that fat?

[BradMph]

Sure, stop by... anyone is welcome...except that guy in Canada named Fordubishi, :lmao:
That is a nice drive too going thru those areas. Montana is also a great drive and so is the 80mph+ speed limits.



Thread Update
__________________________________________
Little update to the truck interior with a gauge placement change. I bought this thing for a whole $16 on ebay and really like it.
12956

For someone who is going blind, it has helped allow me to see the gauges instead of just a blurry round thing in the lower console. The change came about when my temp gauge was telling me the truck was almost in the red. I bought a temp gauge and installed it in the tree with my volt and oil pressure gauge.
The pros out-weigh the cons on this update and I will mention the cons that I seem to have with this new gauge cluster so you will know them before installing.

Cons
*Gauge lights can be an issue if too bright. Pick a nice color bulb that will help allow you to see traffic without distraction and not bother your eye pupils from resizing constantly at night time. I'm using 2 ambers and one red for the temp gauge. I probably will switch to all red in gauges since red seems a bit easier on my eyes and will match dash red as well.
*Getting in and out of truck the gauges can be bumped, so you larger people need to take notice so you don't bang into them.

Wiring was pretty simple and it's a short distance from fuse panel and dimmer switch. Be sure to check your gauge diameters to the holes drilled in the panel.
Maybe I'll sport some photos later.

[BradMph]

Who needs a parts washer? Pretty much all of us wish we had one some day or another. I have collected items to build your personal parts washer and for a very decent price. Here is what I came up with for a long lasting strong pressure and filtered Part Washer.

For around $200, you get a very good working washer. The pumps that come with the washer from Harbor Freight are crap to say the least. So, use it until it stops working and then install a Little Giant Pump to last the rest of your life. The chemical to use for cleaning is exceptional when cleaning parts. The best thing is that you can install one in an attached garage and the wife will not complain about the smell.

12994
(click on the image above to expand)

[BradMph]

I did a graphic image placement of a BMW grill, around '88 model and placed it onto the front of my truck and I really liked it. I don't care what some beamer guy will say if he sees it, it looks different though. I ordered the piece from the Partsgeek.com for a whopping $8.00. They also sell on ebay for $20+, but for the price I got it for, what will I loose. It arrives Feb 26th 2016 and is identical to this one. Here is another graphic prefitting.

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It's kinda eye catching, lol.

[geezer101]

Dare to be different Brad :thumbup: I have an idea of making a custom front grille and using first gen Magna headlight assemblies (they're about the same size as the twin headlights but in a single frameless assembly) A friend of mine has a busted grille from a Scorpion that has a nice honeycomb pattern and Mitsubishi diamond.

[BradMph]

Got the grill today and this thing is really nice. I am impressed for $7.00.

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I won't be jumping into an install right away. I have to change the TBird from a column shift to a console shift which will be a little involved, but I have the parts.

I will probably pull bumpers off the truck and redo them since they have not been done properly for a long time. A good sanding and primer, then paint them both. I will fit the BMW grill in when putting front bumper back on.
Anyway, the BMW grill was ordered from partsgeek.com for just over $7. Partsgeek.com (http://www.Partsgeek.com) also recently started a listing on my RacelineCentral.com (http://www.RacelineCentral.com) website. They requested a year of advertising space so far.

I'll post some pics when I finish this BMW thingy. :)

[BradMph]

Dare to be different Brad :thumbup: I have an idea of making a custom front grille and using first gen Magna headlight assemblies (they're about the same size as the twin headlights but in a single frameless assembly) A friend of mine has a busted grille from a Scorpion that has a nice honeycomb pattern and Mitsubishi diamond.

Coool! I get bored with the same thing everyday and my truck has been through so many transformations. From tonneau cover to matching snug top camper shell and carpet kit and back to tonneau cover again, lol.

Take some pics when you do your grill, I would luv to see it, sounds like it will look really nice.

[BradMph]

Finally broke down and bought a Grant steering wheel for the truck. Go figure it only took 30 years to decide on the new one.

I didn't make any researched decisions on my purchase, I just wanted something nicer then what I have. The wheel is a Grant that comes with the extended hub casing which can't be seen in picture, but it will keep the wheel from being to close too the blinker and wiper arms.
The grant hub comes with 2 hub casing covers which is really helpful. This will help make it look fitted instead of having an oversized or undersized cover. The install kit is here now and the wheel arrives 03/22/16.

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[pennyman1]

Geronimo has had the Grant GT turquois wheel on him since 1985 with the same spacer - welcome to the club...

[BradMph]

Geronimo has had the Grant GT turquois wheel on him since 1985 with the same spacer - welcome to the club...

Thanks Pennyman. I didn't get the one with holes because I got my finger stuck in one once when driving and almost cost me a finger and a ride. lol

[geezer101]

Thanks Pennyman. I didn't get the one with holes because I got my finger stuck in one once when driving and almost cost me a finger and a ride. lol

...I don't even wanna know what you were doing at the time :lmao:

[pennyman1]

I could see that - that was not a option when I got mine. Almost happened to me several times.

[BradMph]

Just placed an order at RockAuto.com
The prices were great and they had what I needed.
16463

I am replacing the ignition system key switch and the electrical switch since the keys are able to come out while the truck is running.
I also am doing front brakes. Turning rotors and replacing pads and clips.

[jdmckay]

Hi,

1st time back here in a long time... after I got my MM going with Weber and electric fuel pump, just got busy and truck has been parked. :( A close friend just got T-boned (totaled his car), so I've pulled my MM out & gotten it roadworthy (minor stuff) and just pretty much gave it to him.

It's been a while so my memory is foggy, so... only issue is: oil pressure dash light is coming on very dimly: have to squint to see it during daylight, but at night looks like it's on. I posted about this couple years ago here (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2390-quot-Mitsy-quot-86-Repairs-Renew-Rebuild-Replace?p=37099&viewfull=1#post37099). Airtex's stock switch closes @ 3-9 psi.

Terminals on mine are labelled: P, G & I. I just wanted to check with you guys, see if anyone can see why that light comes on. I is hooked up to ignition (idea elec. fuel pump only on when there's oil pressure AND ignition in run position). I'll have to pull skid plate and check how I wired other 2 terminals.

Hoping someone (Brad) has a "light come on" <g> and can see why idiot light is on (however dimly).

Hope you're all doing well, & thanks again for help getting that little truck going. It runs like a top!

[BradMph]

Hi,

1st time back here in a long time... after I got my MM going with Weber and electric fuel pump, just got busy and truck has been parked. :( A close friend just got T-boned (totaled his car), so I've pulled my MM out & gotten it roadworthy (minor stuff) and just pretty much gave it to him.

It's been a while so my memory is foggy, so... only issue is: oil pressure dash light is coming on very dimly: have to squint to see it during daylight, but at night looks like it's on. I posted about this couple years ago here (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2390-quot-Mitsy-quot-86-Repairs-Renew-Rebuild-Replace?p=37099&viewfull=1#post37099). Airtex's stock switch closes @ 3-9 psi.

Terminals on mine are labelled: P, G & I. I just wanted to check with you guys, see if anyone can see why that light comes on. I is hooked up to ignition (idea elec. fuel pump only on when there's oil pressure AND ignition in run position). I'll have to pull skid plate and check how I wired other 2 terminals.

Hoping someone (Brad) has a "light come on" <g> and can see why idiot light is on (however dimly).
Hope you're all doing well, & thanks again for help getting that little truck going. It runs like a top!

Hi,
If I was you I would install a oil pressure gauge and that will tell you exactly what your pressure is. Your sensor may be going bad or it is not grounded correctly. If you get a gauge, be sure to try and get the sensor type of gauge and not the plastic oil line kind of gauge. I think there is a law against having hot flammable liquids from the engine coming into the driver compartment. Plus they can get messy when the oil line gets a hole in it.
You can also stick a brass "Y" on the engine block and attach both sensors so you can keep your idiot light and the gauge as well.

[BradMph]

"Presently doing Brake Job"

Doing a front brake job on the truck. This is the first time I had to turn the rotors because of a subtle pedal pulsating. When removing the calipers on passenger side, I noticed the brake pad plate that sits between the pad and caliper had slipped a little and got itself kind of stuck in a strange way. Probably what caused the rotor to get warped a little, who knows. I will use a little more brake pad glue this time so the pads don't shift.
I turned the rotors in to be resurfaced and the shop said that I had just enough meat left on the rotor to turn them. He measured them and said this would be the last time they could be turned. This surprises the heck out of me, the rotors look like they are almost 3/4in thick with not center air venting on them. The shop said this is the first time they ever saw disk so thick. (me too, lol) These rotors I would consider super heavy duty disk from the size of the width they have.
Oh well, the shop finished them and they look very nice again and I am good to go. I cleaned out the rotors of all the old grease and put bearings in solvent. The bearings are still in excellent condition, so I repacked them and installed new oil seals on rotors. I used high temp (red) grease to pack bearings. I also bought new metallic brake pads so I didn't get that ceramic black dust all over the wheels. I haven't had that problem before and I am not going to start having it now.
I should be able to have the truck down off lift tomorrow and rotate the tires as well. I can't be any happier about the wear of the tires though. Having a lowered truck, it has always maintained a perfect alignment. I thank this to always greasing the front parts twice a year. Each part of the front end has a zerk fitting installed and think Mitsubishi did real good by doing this at the factory for this truck.
I don't know if you all ever feel like you just had enough with cars all together. In the day, I would work all day on the vehicles and finish in no time. Now, it takes me days to finish stuff and it isn't any fun no more. I procrastinate doing the work now and hope I never have to as long as possible. I can thank getting older I guess for this BS. It's getting harder and harder to get up off the ground with the knees I have. I need to find me a stool with rollers so I can scoot around instead of getting up and down constantly. I also maintain 4 cars and a boat which could be part of this as well.
Anyway, we will be doing more work to the truck to prepare for another California road trip coming soon. I think I am also dreading this too, but once I get on the road and away from home I think it will be nice. It is a well deserved trip and looking forward to it as long as everything goes good. I definitely don't want to be stuck out in booney land with a broken down ride. :)

[BradMph]

Tightening torques of the wheel bearings are as follows.

You all know to pack the bearings, I use high temp and hand pack the bearings. Once you have everything back together and are putting on the main spindle nut, use this procedure to make sure the nut is correctly tightened.

The Book Says...
Torque the spindle nut to 22 ft. lbs, Then back it off and re-tighten to 6 ft. lbs. Put your carter pin on and cap. Replace the wheel and tighten the lugs to 75 to 80 ft. lbs. After you have installed the wheel, grab the top and bottom of the wheel while it is still on jack stands and shake the wheel forward and backward to check for play in the bearing. You should not feel any play, but also you should be able to spin the wheel freely and not be grinding or sticky.
My father in law taught me how to do it without a torque wrench.
Tighten the nut down to pull everything together (bearings) next, back it off and then re-tighten to as hard as you can with hand tight, maybe just a 1/2 turn more. Then you back the nut off just enough so it sort of feels like it went over a notch. It takes a bit to get the feel of that notch feeling when backing the nut off, but it usually works out to be the first spot on the nut that you can insert the carter pin through . Replace the cap and you should be good to go.

[geezer101]

If the brake pedal is pulsing due to warping from overheating IMO you should never get them machined. The metal has already been stressed and the next time it will more than likely crack (if there aren't hairline cracks in it already). Solid disc rotors are not great at heat dissipation but it's the technology that was available for the manufacturers' budget at the time. And if you're changing one, you're changing both sides. Brakes are something you really don't want to get wrong.

Also, from my own experience - you ever notice some of the undulations on a disc seem higher and 'bright' looking? I've run a file across a disc and removed these as it is nothing more than metal from the pads that has binded itself to the disc face (actually I've done things far more brutal than using a file but I wouldn't condone or recommend it to anybody other than the foolhardy or the brave...)

[BradMph]

I really don't think I will have an issue with the brakes being turned, it's normal procedure. The pulsating just started and it was so subtle you could hardly feel it. The reason I had it done was because I am taking truck on a long drive. It allowed me to grease all the zerks and the bearings, wire brush the collected road dirt off suspension parts, inspect and check for any bad ball joints or tie-rod ends.
I know there are no cracks in the rotors, after 28+years they just needed a minor amount removed on resurfacing for a good contact with brake pads. I have never heard of a rotor cracking as well. These rotors are thick and doubt very much they would crack.
We have extreme weather here and they would crack under the heat or cold before just applying the brakes. I also have always taken care of this truck and don't abuse these types of items. My first set of tires I installed lasted over 80K miles, which is 128747.52 Kilometers.
The brakes also have air ducting built into the shield. There was no sign at all of an over heated rotor, grease was still in great shaped, not cooked, and the bearings were definitely not worth replacing because of their condition.
I also feel that the rotors would of remained fine except for the backing plate that I mentioned that sits between the pad and the caliper. It somehow worked loose from the plunger side pad only and shifted to one side. This most likely allowed the pad to wobble ever so slightly and created the irregular surface.
I have full faith in the truck and the shop that turned them. He specified the limit that he could remove from the rotor and I really don't think 2 mm or 1mm from each side will effect the rotor to a point of disintegration.

16478

[geezer101]

I've encountered plenty of cracked rotors on solid and vented discs as a result of being overheated (o.k. not on a MM/D50 specifically). In fact I've only recently replaced the rotors on my Lantra Sportswagon that were both cracked and warped (it had been used by the PO to tow a caravan - just stupid...) On any vehicle I've owned that has had a brake issue I've tried to source a direct bolt-on upgrade to avoid the problem coming back to haunt me.

[BradMph]

Tonight I did some painting and some shining.
Pulled the grill and repainted the flat black over, looks new again. Then waxed on and waxed off the entire truck. Grabbed the drill and buffer pad and shined that baby up. It's time for a new paint job and I think when I get back from road trip I will look into this. For a red paint job that is 30 years old, it has held up great. It still shines, but it is also thinning.
Not sure if I mentioned before that I also took some 1000 grit wet sand paper and did all the rims. After that I hit them with a little comet to get the stains out. I use to use acid wash and it did a fantastic job on these aluminum rims. I did buy some acid from a chemical dealer out here, but it just isn't the same stuff as I used before. The tanker truckers use an acid wash that works great, I just need to locate a place that sells this special blend chemical.

[BradMph]

You haven't had fun in your life until you have bled the brake lines of your truck with the wifey at the wheel, LOL. It took a little longer, but it was a learning process for us both.
What a team. :lmao: Brakes are working better then ever.

[BradMph]

Ordered new material for the tonnuea cover on my truck and found a very good price for the material.

Black Elk Material is for making bed covers, make sure it comes with the thread reinforced backing.

16491
Ebay $10.99 for 66in. x 36in. X3
Shipping was higher then I would of liked it, but it was better then buying it local for $23.99 a yard x60in.
I picked up all the canvas snaps and the snap gun. I won't be pounding the snaps on this time which will make the job faster and cleaner. I have to take material in to an upholstery shop to have a border stitched on then I will finish the rest.

The entire cover was about $80-$90 which is much better then 300-400 bucks with the snaps. These covers make our trucks look real nice and they also are aero-dynamic, keeping wind from banging against the bed of the truck like an air brake.

I have tinted back slider glass and repainted the frame and it looks brand new again.. I will be tinting the side windows in the morning with some quality tint that does not turn purple and fade, plus it keeps 43% of heat out and almost 99% of UV from hitting the interior.

Still on schedule for road trip. :)

I bought GPS for the trip since last time I got off track in Oregon. It is a Garmin 2597LMT with lifetime map updates and also has lifetime "live" traffic updates too.
I had a big credit on Amazon for trying their Credit Card and got the GPS for around $48. It regulary sells for over $125.
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[BradMph]

Just got back from vacation in California visiting daughter and grand-kids. Truck ran incredibly both directions with a gas mileage from 24.9 to 27.5 on Highway driving with a driving time of about 17 hours from WA to Mariposa, Southern Cal near Yosemite area.
Mostly Highway 5 and 99. It never skipped a beat and climbed Mt. Shasta area with ease. It only went through 1/2 quart of oil the entire 2000+ miles @ 70 to 90mph.
If any of you go to California, be prepared for high speed freeway driving, lol. It is normal procedure to drive 80+mph on their roadways and have a highway patrolman right next to you doing the same thing. Actually the HP avoid the freeways pretty much during the busy periods and is a free for all, so be prepared for stop and go traffic around big cities.
You might want to bring a Frisbee to play with if you jump into a commute time because it is incredibly bad during this period of times. I chose to try and drive during the off period times, but still got caught up around Sacramento area on 99. I can imagine LA is a fuggin mess around the 9am and 5pm times, it's asshole to belly button there so be warned.

Nice to be back, grass is a foot long and wifey is dead on the couch and animals are doing what they want. LOL!

[BradMph]

Pulled truck into garage to check universal joints. Noise sounds like a loose bolt on muffler and kind of swirling screechy sound, so I hope it's the U-Joints. If not, trany will be pulled to replace throw out bearing and maybe a pilot bearing.

[BradMph]

Well, since I have so many cars now, lol. I have been procrastinating on checking out the truck further. I lifted the rear axle and tires off the ground and ran thru the gears and changed to reverse and what not to check U-joints, but still have not confirmed the problem. It surely sounds like it comes from the back end of the truck and sounds very much like a loose spring in a brake drum rattling. It is not consistent at all and happens only when clutch is out and rolling along or taking off from a stop.
I dropped the driveshaft at the differential and the u-joints don't seem bad at all. Free and no excessive play. I am going to pull rear wheels and check inside the drums for anything loose or if I picked up something off the road.
I also don't think it is a clutch plate spring or throw-out bearing yet because it is not continuously making the noise.

I'll update soon as I crawl under truck again and search deeper. I just don't have the energy that I use to have and being sidetracked with other things on my plate.

[79d-50]

Hi, currently rebuilding my 79 d50 sport. Just got the original engine and transmission rebuilt and ready to go back in, once all is running then time for body and paint. The body is actually almost mint other than a couple holes in each door from those damn elephant ear mirrors,
need to track down a windshield rubber gasket or trim... heard you have quite a stock pile of parts

[BradMph]

Hi, currently rebuilding my 79 d50 sport. Just got the original engine and transmission rebuilt and ready to go back in, once all is running then time for body and paint. The body is actually almost mint other than a couple holes in each door from those damn elephant ear mirrors,
need to track down a windshield rubber gasket or trim... heard you have quite a stock pile of parts


Hi, been a while but you may contact Camoit on a gasket or Safe-Lite auto glass.

[BradMph]

I have a weird noise coming from my truck. Sounds like it is coming from the rear portion of the truck and it doesn't make it as bad on accelleration, but mostly when I lift off the gas. It sounds identical to what a loose bolt would sound like on the exhaust. Kind of that chirping with a whirling to it. I have pulled the driveshaft and U-joints seem fine. No leakage or rust and they look lube. I also thoroughly looked under the truck for a loose bolt and shook the muffler to see if something broke inside the muffler. With the rear end lifted, I free spinn the axel and driveshaft and it seems to be smooth with no catching or scraping.
I thought maybe a throw out bearing, but the noise will sound off when the clutch is out and in gear running. I can double clutch while driving and the nose returns back when in gear, but stops when clutch is pushed in.
The noise doesn't seem to be getting worse yet, it has gotten to this point and leveled out. I have raise the rear up and ran the gears and got it to make noise, but not every time. I have to kind of pop it a bit and it's subtle. A friend of mine said it might be the clutch balance weights, but it sounds like the back half of the truck. I have yet to check wheel bearing, but that would always make noise.
I might tape my camera to the axle housing and see if I can get sound on video.

Any ideas? before I chase this thing all over.

[pennyman1]

what about the carrier bearing - that would make that noise and is in the right place. You might not be able to shake it to see if it is bad.

[BradMph]

what about the carrier bearing - that would make that noise and is in the right place. You might not be able to shake it to see if it is bad.

The carrier bearing was new at rebuild. Probably 5K to 10K miles on it now. Wouldn't this bearing always make noise if it was bad? Gas on or Gas off? I put my finger in the grease hole and the grease isn't cooked and there is still plenty in the hole.

[BradMph]

Ok, I made a video of the sound my truck is making. Anyone have an idea what this might be?



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y-A7YKNNy2E&feature=youtu.be

[BradMph]

I have located some very good LED lights for our trucks and wanted to share them with everyone. I have replace the entire dash lighting on my Toyota MR2 and was so happy with the performance, color, brightness and also allowed the dimmer to work, that I installed them in my truck too. I ordered the turn signal/flasher lights in green, the bright light indicator light in blue and the rest in white light, in addition to assorted for HVAC display. The dimmer still works with these LED lights as well.
Here are the LED lights I purchased on Ebay

White Lights
19416

Green Turn Signal Lights
19417

Blue Bright Lights Light
19418

Assorted Variety for HVAC Control Area and Customizing Display - Small LED
19419

[geezer101]

Need to take a pic of the end result Brad. The factory lighting in Gen 1's is on par with a couple of tea candles - barely. Still haven't found the source of your noise yet Brad?

[geezer101]

O.k. about to rebuild the tail shaft in my Gen 1 (2 piece) and already have the centre carrier bearing. Anyone have links to compatible part numbers as a cross reference? I have GMB 220-0081 and I just want to confirm this is the right part before placing an order. Any traps? Like 2 different joints? Don't want to get stuck with wrong parts or having to place a second order. Thanks!

[BradMph]

Truck has been sitting in garage since noise started and during summer. Went to start it at start of summer and the choke wire popped off and grounded for a while and smoked some wiring. I replaced all the fried wires and everything is fine, but the fuel pump would not spin up, so I have to find the power wire going or coming from the relay. Not a big deal, but the noise will be rechecked after I get truck running again. Before winter also because that is what I drive in the snow here.

Will take a pic of the dash when I go out to garage to fix fuel pump lead. These LED's are awesome also in my MR2. Definitely make the Green blinker and Blue bright light lights much better. The Dash light color is exceptionally nice and it makes the dash view much cleaner looking. I am totally satisfied with them. The assorted lights above can be used in the HVAC controls. Those are a little less bright, but I have seen people wiring in more and multicolors that look beautiful.


Drive shaft has all the same U-Joints and the center support bearing can be very expensive btw. I didn't have any issues replacing mine. Not sure about part numbers. Maybe check the toyota's parts site and Rock Auto. RA site usually has many manufacture parts to check them numbers your looking for.

[1984wade]

sounds a squeaky universal joint to me

[geezer101]

I swapped all the warning and display lights in my L200 with white T10 LED's. Cheap to do and it made a big difference. I used blue LED's for back lights and although I could've used white which would've made the markers and gauges stand out more, the blue is less 'fatiguing' on the eyes. Thanks for the heads up on the uni-joints Brad. They'd cost me $35 AU a piece over the counter so ebay is going to be my buddy once again.
I should've bought a full rebuild kit for my tailshaft assembly - seen them as low as $55 US on ebay... :shakehead:

[BradMph]

Pulled drive shaft and checked and refilled u-joints with grease. No change. Center support was new. It's been a while since truck has been started and running, so I need to stop procrastinating and get on this thing. This is what happens when having too many vehicles. Get lazy

Going out tonight to see if I can locate the no spark issue. Need this truck for winter snow driving asap.

[BradMph]

I swapped all the warning and display lights in my L200 with white T10 LED's. Cheap to do and it made a big difference. I used blue LED's for back lights and although I could've used white which would've made the markers and gauges stand out more, the blue is less 'fatiguing' on the eyes. Thanks for the heads up on the uni-joints Brad. They'd cost me $35 AU a piece over the counter so ebay is going to be my buddy once again.
I should've bought a full rebuild kit for my tailshaft assembly - seen them as low as $55 US on ebay... :shakehead:



Those white LEDs have really nice color and clarity and really like them. My blinkers and bright lights dash lights are so much bright also. I like the change completely and no more hot bulb issues.

[BradMph]

Got the truck started tonight and ran it up to full temp and everything seems ok. The Heater/Vent must of blew a fuse (will check tomorrow). The oil pressure line isn't allowing the gauge to work properly. (will check for any crush lines). The radio needs to be looked at and it seems the heater vent controls are interfering with the radios wires. So that will be looked at. Other then that, everything seemed ok. Will take it our of garage and push MR2 in its place for the winter.

[BradMph]

30+ Years of Ownership 1986 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
19879
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I posted some pictures I had of the truck to see.

Complete Truck Updates (click to expand images)

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1987219873

Blue Print Download
19871

[geezer101]

Geezer approves :thumbup:

[BradMph]

32 years old and I didn't look this good when I was 32.
I estimate the miles on the truck to date are about 500,000 at least and still original red paint. :lmao:
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[pennyman1]

love to get a grill guard like that for the 86 4wd I just got - what brand is that?

[BradMph]

Not sure what brand the grill guard is Pennyman, It has been on the truck since I bought it from original owner in '87. That accessory and the Tonneau cover were actually what caught my eye and convinced me to purchase the truck. Also that it was red, but the guard was plus. I have removed the top round bar to show off the BMW grill piece, but I am saving it in case I get tired of the BMW look.
I have replaced the tonneau cover also since then and believe it or not, I made this last one myself and saved me a bundle. I purchase the sheet material and the edging and snaps all at a fabric store. Cut it and sewed edging on a sewing machine. (thanks to the hours I watched mom using a sewing machine). After creating this one, the next time I will be much better at the fitting. I know now to cut it loosely and then put snaps on as you fit it the the trucks snaps. Then remove it and cut the edge and sew the edging on to finish it.

[tortron]

how about the wheel arch trims? don't see many like that

[BradMph]

Finally located the strange noise I had under the truck. Friggin U-Joints need to be replaced again. I have grease fittings on the ones in the truck now and usually keep up on them. When I filled them the other day, they were empty. After packing them, the noise stopped except for occasional ping when the U-joint pops and pings the differential gear. Going to buy 3 new ones with grease fittings again and install them ASAP.

[xboxrox]

Sounds like a Chevy :chevybowtie: or a Christmas tree branch is dragging..? Hope you figure it out... Happy Holidays

[BradMph]

I am not sure if I updated the post about the noisey sound as I started from a stop and so on. But anyway I found the problem. I decided to change all the U-Joints and after crawling under the truck and moving the drive shaft back and forth and rotating it, I noticed a bad u-joint. Then noticed the 4 bolts connecting the driveshaft to the third member were lose. Finally I find the problem and before it snapped off.
Replaced the U-joints and torqued the 4 bolts correctly and the noise is gone. :))

[geezer101]

Yeesh, that could've ended badly. Happy quiet(er) motoring Brad :thumbup:

[BradMph]

I thought I would post some pics of the truck as it sits now, painted, new bed cover, and other work. Putting a stereo system in new now as well.
Finally also got the hood and cowling to be same color pretty much with a carbon fiber wrap on the center area. Still runs incredible and having fun when not upgrading items.

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Can't believe I started this thread in 2013, 8 years ago. Been a great time here at the forum for sure.