200$ Mitsubishi Mighty Max 4x4 New Member

[Brady H]

6939Hey guys! I just bought this little mighty max for 200$ a few weeks ago and it has a cracked head. Ive always wanted a mighty max truck to fix up and use and I want to get this one running well, someone has already put a 2 barrel weber carb on it with electric choke and done away with the stock. If anyone could get me going in the right direction I would like to get this truck back on the road! Thank you guys! :grin:

[Brady H]

Oh and if anyone has a head for it I would be interested, Im trying to get it running good before winter hits.

[BradMph]

Welcome Brady H. to the forum. Very nice truck you have there. Your name caught my eye and I thought I would answer your post. :grin:
You have a typical issue with your head being cracked on the motor and you don't have to feel like the Lone Ranger because of it. I think just about everyone in here has witnessed this problem, but it is repairable or replaceable.
First of all, how bad is the crack? Can it be repaired by a heliarc weld shop, possibly in your area. Most cracks are between valves and not too serious. This would be the most cost effective of all the repairs. Next would be to replace it. There are heads available out there, in fact I have one but have no idea if it has a crack or what. I was told it was fine. Anyway, I'm sure someone will add the name of the head shop that some have used here, I just can't recall the name right now. If you can photograph the crack to show the damage this can help also determine it's seriousness. You want to save the head at all cost since a rebuilt would run in the range of $250 to $500 depending where you get it.
As for the carburetor, that is a plus for the truck already. Not knowing your states smog laws...but that is about the best update you can do to these trucks, besides a header exhaust. Do you know what model carb? 32/36 or a 38? should say on the base around the edge of the carb.

Anyway, welcome and make yourself comfortable here. Explore the forum for whatever you seek because we have a library full of great information. We also have some of the most knowledgeable owners here as well. Last but not least, be sure you read and follow our TOS rules for the forum. This will help answer any questions concerning what and what not your able to do while the system gets to know you.

[Brady H]

I will get some pictures of the head, im pretty sure its busted right between the valves like you said. And if you think you might have a decent head let me know! Ive did alot of work on the truck and got it cleaned up really nice. I already sand blasted and painted the bumpers back satin black and have the seat sent off to be reupholstered. I also scrubbed the carpet and got it super clean. And here in Tennessee we dont have to take our vehicles to have them "sniffed" so the laws are super super forgiving on the smog. I will go get some good pictures of the head tomorrow and of the carb. :grin:

[Brady H]

One of my friends that used to have one said I should invest in a balance shaft delete kit? Should I or whats your opinion on that?

[BradMph]

Sounds like you got bitten by the bug, like us all. They are fun trucks and once you get one it is hard to let go of them. I have owned mine since 87, before you were even born. lol Some here have had them longer.

The balance shaft removal is a 50/50 decision here in the forum. I have decided to leave mine in during a very recent rebuild, but many have removed them. This is a choice you will have to make your own. They were installed to keep engine vibrations down to a minimum throughout the truck, mostly in the driver's butt. 4 cylinders have a typical vibration and Mitsubishi installed this to smooth them out.
If you decide to remove it, it would be best to start balancing a few items though. This will help counter balance the removal and help to compensate the increased vibration. You should balance the flywheel and maybe machine it to remove about ten pounds. There is also the balancing of the pistons and rods to achieve matching weight throughout the 4 of them. A crank balance would help and I'm not sure if anything else would need to be done. Though someone will poke in and add the info if they read this thread.
Some people just removed it and deal with the effects. Some feel the effects and some don't, so it's an owners choice. I would check out the internet also. Check through google to see what others did and what they liked and disliked. Remember all trucks are not alike and your will most likely run different then if I did mine and compared them both. Kits are about $15 or so, but the engine must come out to make the change.

Your head, if it is crack between valves is what I would say 100% fixable. It would be beneficial to do that and it shouldn't cost near the cost for a head. Remember if you buy a head and have it shipped, shipping is not going to be pretty. Figure $50 to $100 more for that. Plus if there is work to be done to a head you had shipped. That money could get yours fixed. The head on mine is a repaired head and it has lasted for years.
These trucks are notorious for cracking heads. The 2.6 seems to be worse from what I have heard. There are ways to prevent it as best as possible and 80% is normal maintenance and paying attention to your gauges.
The head I have is not what you would want, especially that I have no idea what shape it's in. I wouldn't feel right about selling it if it was NFG. I was just saving for a project or something if a shortblock ever dropped into my lap.

[Brady H]

Ill take pictures of it and show you soon as I get some day light. They already marked the spots where its supposibly "busted." And I already bought all the gaskets, thermostat, timing chain and some other random odds and ends from mistubishi the other day since they had a nos gasket kit on hand plus a rear end gasket. I did get new radiator hoses from advance though and I got a brand new aluminum radiator from ebay from just incase they filled it full of stop leak or something. I think im going to leave the balance shaft in but im gonna replace it. And I treat my vehicles like gold haha, factory filters and mobil1 in everything I own! Im going to make this little truck look and drive like new and I hope me and it have a long run because I love my little truck already! I can see why so many people like them. Its gonna be alittle hard getting my 4 8in hx2 fosgates behind the seat though! :rolleyes:

[Brady H]

Well heres the pictures, I did as best as I can to get get a good image of the combustion chambers. I think its to far gone to be fixed but I wana hear you opinion. 69556956

[Fordubishi]

There's your problem right there, you're running those crappy E3 plugs............Nothing wrong with the head :lmao:

[Brady H]

I got it with the crappy E3 plugs haha. That was the first thing I saw when I took the head out of the bag and I started laughing. Im putting NGK's back in it.

[pennyman1]

These trucks don't like Mobil 1 syn oil either - it will burn it like a diesel. Use Brad -Penn or any other oil with ZDDP added for best care of the cam and other components.

[Brady H]

Ill use just that then, im gonna take the best care of the truck I possibly can. Would anyone on here have a extra head forsale thats any good, ive not been able to find one. If anyone has one please let me know, I really wana go get this thing running before long. :grin:

[BradMph]

Try Ebay first.

If you put synthetic oil in a motor that ran regular oil for a long time, your heading for some big problems. Unless you like oil pouring onto your driveway by the quart. The leaks start slow then they starts to multiply. Synthetic burns cleaner because it doesn't burn like regular oil, but it will promote leaks by de-swelling the gaskets from their oil.

[Brady H]

Ill try that, I looked but couldnt find a used one. Only new ones that are 290+ for bare heads, and compleat ones for 400$ or so. Id like to have a compleat used one to rebuild. I bought some autometer cobalt II gauges for the truck today to monitor the oil pressure and the water temp on it plus digital voltage gauge for the stereo. You think anyone one here might have one if I posted a wanted add?

[Brady H]

Will a 87 2.6L conquest tsi motor work in the truck, ive found the whole motor with 120k and wiring harness for 500$ and im thinking that would be super fun. Id really like to use this engine if its possible and it will bolt up to the existing bellhousing.

[pennyman1]

It should work with your tranny, but make sure the spacing on the lower bolt holes on the back of the block are 13.25" center to center. You will need all the wiring, ecm and need to add a high pressure inline fuel pump from a Ford truck to feed the EFI. It will drop right onto the g54b motor mounts, as the Starquest motor started out as a truck block. Routing the piping for the intercooler will be a lot of work, but not insurmountable.

[Brady H]

I went and looked at the motor but it looked pretty roached and the charger had more shaft play than I was nearly comfortable with so I ended up buying a good friend 87 Ram 50 4x4 that had a good 2.6 motor in it for 400$. Im in the process of replacing all the gaskets right now and my koyo radiator showed up along with the 2 electric fal fans which im gonna use as pulling fans on the front of the radiator as a fail safe for the mechical. I had a bung welded into the bottom of the radiator and put a honda fan switch in and made a nice fuse box for.

[pennyman1]

the fans in front of the rad need to be pushers, not pullers. The fan switch bung is a great idea.

[Brady H]

That what I ment to say but got toung tied lol. Ive spent probably 20$ degreasing the engine bay and under the truck really good before I go ahead and put the engine in. I rebuilt the weber carb and cleanded it up really nicely along with all the parts im gonna "re-use" on the new engine. Im waiting right now for the clutch kit and some other pieces from my buddy at mitsubishi to get here. Im getting pretty excited about driving my truck! :grin:

[BradMph]

Make a list on what you need to do and not to do with the fixed motor. Power washers work well, those car wash stations are great if they have strong pressure and don't get water in dizzy cap.
Pennyman is right about themplugs, Avoid them POS things. Stick with old school and for oil, I read that 30wt is great for breakins plus additive of course. Watch your oil pressure and etc etc. You want to stay excited with a running engine. Though you will be hearing strange things in the motor as you spark her up fresh. A little paranoia is a good thing. lol

[Brady H]

Ive already got the engine bay cleaned up and under the frame. The frame is super solid and so is everything else, ive only found 2 rust holes in the bed floor and one on the rocker beside the drivers wheel. The seat came back and looks awesome. And the other engine is together on the engine stand and cleaned up really nicely along with the fresh weber on the top. So about 2 more weeks and I think ill have it going. :grinno:

[Adami]

What NGK plugs did you use? I tried to get some at the local Autozone but couldn't get a NGK match just Autolite.

[Brady H]

Well I ended up spending alot on the motor to make it right. I put all the seals, the whole timing chain assembly and balance shaft, all the gaskets minus the head gasket. The motor has low miles and runs really awesome so I decided not to mess with it. I also put a new exedy clutch kit on it. The motor is in and ive about got everything fixed and I eliminated the vaccume lines that were not in use and cleaned up the engine bay alot.

[BradMph]

What NGK plugs did you use? I tried to get some at the local Autozone but couldn't get a NGK match just Autolite.

Adami check this out for NGK plugs

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2500-Official-NGK-2012-product-amp-specifications-catalog

[BradMph]

Well I ended up spending alot on the motor to make it right. I put all the seals, the whole timing chain assembly and balance shaft, all the gaskets minus the head gasket. The motor has low miles and runs really awesome so I decided not to mess with it. I also put a new exedy clutch kit on it. The motor is in and ive about got everything fixed and I eliminated the vaccume lines that were not in use and cleaned up the engine bay alot.

Don't spend a lot of money again, be sure to use an additive that has Zinc
7427

[pennyman1]

or use edelbrock break in oil with zddp - don't do what gas monkey garage did and cheap out by using cheap oil and an additive - they wiped 2 lobes and trashed 2 lifters out and filled the motor with shavings...

[Brady H]

Oh I'm not, I have some of that lucus additive and I never put cheap oil in my vehicles so it's getting the correct weight Mobil1 and a mistisubishi filter. I'm trying to get a pair of the factory 5 star 4x4 wheels for it like on my neighbors.

[pennyman1]

do not use synthetic oil for break-in - it will not let the parts break in properly. use it after break in.

[Brady H]

I didnt get synthetic, I got the break-in down pat where I build race cars with dad. Im just tickled to get it back on the highway again. I took the bumpers off and the skid plate so I could sandblasted them and paint them back flat black today and they look amazing. Im probably going to paint the truck all over this summer, it looks alright but the clear is comming off of the hood and roof, and I have a super small rust hole on the rocker so im going to kill that before it spreads.

[Brady H]

Does anyone know if I can make the sport cluster work in my mm? I know of a friend that has a sport cluster but I dont want to spend any money on it if the tach wont work with my truck.

[mylittleshitty]

Does anyone know if I can make the sport cluster work in my mm? I know of a friend that has a sport cluster but I dont want to spend any money on it if the tach wont work with my truck.
86-96 2nd gen sport cluster will work, all you need is an oil pressure sending unit for the oil pressure gauge, and plug in the orange/red or black/white wires on the firewall for the tach to work.

[Brady H]

Well I guess I know what im going to get tomorrow after work lol.

[77amc]

I thought that the oil pressure sending unit HAD to be the one WITH a gauge, NOT idiot light?
Mine came from a quest. The big canister style sending unit, not the little bulb ones.

OH, and start saving up for a Clearwater head or one from Odessa on Ebay. Thicker, and just better.
The stock one is going to crack. It's just a matter of time.
I ordered mine bare, ported it, used a "Schneider" regrind w/roller rockers and for the rest I used the quest parts. *(the quest/starion exhaust valves are SODIUM filled) BTW.. And lap those seats in.
I worked on a buddy's that he said RAN GREAT before a oil pump chain failure, but found a cracked head #2 and 3 after tear-down.

You might want to have one of your Dad's buddys re-curve your distributor a little for that weber. Being a 4wd, you might want your advance in quicker.

E

[mylittleshitty]

I thought that the oil pressure sending unit HAD to be the one WITH a gauge, NOT idiot light?
Mine came from a quest. The big canister style sending unit, not the little bulb ones.

Sport cluster has oil gauge! You need the big canister sending unit for the oil gauge, or it wont work. The idiot light uses the small pressure switch.

[Brady H]

I've already advanced the timing alittle to make it rev quicker, so far ive put 900 miles on it and its ran really good. If it does end up busting the head again eventually its getting a starion engine or a 4g63 out of a tsi talon but for now i cant belive its running this good. Ive never had a carb'ed engine run this good and acutally start in the morning when its cold without square dancing on the gas pedal. And on the cluster ill work on that, only reason I really want it is a tach because its driving me crazy without one.