need a radiator

[bleeddiesel]

I have an 83 ram 50 diesel that I just got, its been neglected for awhile and im trying to making all better again. But I need a radiator, the original one doesn't hold water very well. Please advise.

[royster]

It is possible to solder those things, unless the cooling fins are corroded.

[BradMph]

Yep, Royster has the right answer. You could go to wrecking yard if they are not to far away or expensive. Seems radiators aren't to badly priced. You can swap other vehicle ones also, just as long as the hose fittings are in the same spot and what not. Take in all the replies and make your own choice that fits your budget. Welcome to the Forum. :)

[mikewarme]

Yep, Royster has the right answer. You could go to wrecking yard if they are not to far away or expensive. Seems radiators aren't to badly priced. You can swap other vehicle ones also, just as long as the hose fittings are in the same spot and what not. Take in all the replies and make your own choice that fits your budget. Welcome to the Forum. :)

Either take it to a radiator shop or look at spectra premium website. They are about 130-150.00 They have them new. By the way any 4wd 2.6 radiator will work and fit perfect. Some came with trans coolers but that doesn't matter as the ports are configured the same. BTW a 87 and up will not work must be early 82-86 ram 50 or mitsubishi. Most of the used ones are junk. There is one on ebay check it out 4d55 radiator. Make sure the cooling system is proper don't overheat your diesel!

[mikewarme]

Ok i did the research for you. Spectra premium CU758seems pricey for $200 on ebay so I looked at rockauto under 85 power ram 50 with 2.6. Compares with oe numbers they have 2 choices 1 for $103 and 1 for $166. You do get what you pay for so get the vista if you can afford it. Platic and aluminum which will cool better than the brass. And the shroud is only needed if you run A/c on these.

For your reference
Mitsubishi oem for the diesel radiator on both a 2wd and 4wd is MB222043 but will exchange with the 2.6 radiator of MB221988 or with transmission cooler MB356076

The diesels all used the same radiator 2wd or 4wd. So remember 2.6 gas 4wd is the ticket. And always look for 82-86 power ram 50 , d50 4x4 etc . The 82 was a prospector version of the d50.

Mike

[bleeddiesel]

Thanks, sorry I forgot to mention that it was currently sitting at a radiator shop, and the guy said it was like swiss cheese since it was sitting for about 20 years. I flushed it out a little to well and made it leak. But again Thanks, I bought this unit in late December, and ive been reading from this forum probably twice a day, which has been a big help. Once this radiator hurdle is traversed, I hope I have daily driver. Ive replaced the head gasket, had the head pressure checked, fixed the intake manifold, I rebuilt the turbo, replaced the rocker shaft cuz the guy that attempted to rebuild it before me set #3 exhaust too tight, surprised that's all that happened to it. Replaced the rusted out fuel tank, and threw in a low volume napa electric fuel pump, per some ones recommendation from this site, cant remember which thread that one was. It also had some electrical issues, soldered in 2 new diodes and replaced a tracer on the circuit board that was burned out on the glow plug controller, checked continuity throughout the controller circuit and made sure there was no short to ground, but still some sort problem because the magic smoke got out again, I may just wire in a direct feed for the glow plugs.

[mikewarme]

Make sure it is a momentary push button. If you heat the plugs more than 8 seconds they will burn and could turn into a ballon on the tip and fall into the cylinder hitting the pistons into the head as there is no clearance for a glow plug tip. My thoughts........ After 20 years of sitting pretty sure your injection pump is gummed up. Tell me about the rest of the truck. Rust free , 4wd? How does it idle and accel? Did radiator shop come up with a replacement?

[bleeddiesel]

Actually Mike I had another question for ya, and tonight when I get to a computer ill tell you about it. But the question was Will the radiator for the 2.6 mount to the same holes as the original. I just,wanna make sure before I order the one off rockauto

[bleeddiesel]

The reason for asking is the rad shop ordered an 83 ram 50 radiator and it wasn't the right size. He doesn't know which engine it was for.

[pennyman1]

it was probably for the 2.0 motor - they are smaller than the 2.6 rads

[bleeddiesel]

It is relatively rust free, 4wd 5spd havnt driven it, but I did watch it run before I bought it. It had went through 3 guys who were gonna rebuild it and each one did a little and sold it. So im the 4th sucker who came along. The head gasket was improperly installed, fuel tank had numerous holes in it so it was running on watered down laquer fuel when I bought it, which I though was kinda promising that it was even running on that. It idles just fine, I don't know how it drives yet, but my only concern was that 2 and 3 pre combustion chambers were ever so slightly recessed in the head so perhaps there is still combustion in the cooling system, the gasket looked like it "ovaled" out around the fire ring of the gasket to enclose the pre chambers so I went for it. Miles are unconfirmed and the vent tube from the valve cover to the intake before the turbo was vented to atmoshphere and there is some blow by, the cylinders were worn from the rings but I still saw some cross hatching so I threw the head on. ran it for about 6 at an idle while I was flushing the cooling system with a napa radiator flush. there was a lot of rust in the coolant galleys and radiator, the radiator shop said it looked more like freeze damage to the radiator and not so much degredation. If your interested in anymore details let me know.

[suresight]

Hey Guys,


AutoZone has the Spectra Premium CU700. Which is the fit for the 2.6 from what Mike Warme was saying.

http://ecat.spectrapremium.com/produits/specifications/CU700.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Spectra-Premium-Radiator/_/N-9pdak?itemIdentifier=780684_0_0_

Free Shipping and a $25 gift card. Plus $12.00 off Peak AntiFreeze

I'm seeing the same issues with overheating. Been on and off for a better part of a year now. Changed the headgasket was great for a while
but now last two months seeing major temp changes. Going to replace the radiator and thermostat. Hoping that does it. Got a trip coming up.

[northan]

I ordered that $103 radiator from
Rock auto for the ram 50 2.6. I typed the year 1985 as well. Well I just got it in the mail and the holes DO NOT line up. The 2.6 radiator seems to be about 3 inches side to side shorter. I can make it work by making some sort of bracket but it won't look as good as just bolting up.

[northan]

11252 11253

[camoit]

They sent you the wrong one. That has a cooler for an Automatic transmission. That's for a 2.0

[bleeddiesel]

So what did you do to resolve it?

[BradMph]

They sent you the wrong one. That has a cooler for an Automatic transmission. That's for a 2.0


That looks identical to my 2.0 radiator, but yours has that Automatic transmission fluid cell for the transmission fluid to flow in and out of. Some people cap these off and don't use them if they have a manual transmission, but if you can get the right one that doesn't have them, it would be golden for a manual transmission.
You also spoke that you are seeing a rise in the engine temps again, have you checked the clutch on the fan. The fan is filled with a fluid silicone that acts as the clutch to spin the fan progressively as temps rise and what not. When a truck approaches the age ours are in this silicone can leak or just get worked to death. Inturn this makes the fan not work as it once did. A bad fan clutch will usually show itself at stop lights when temps rise because not enough air is being pulled through radiator and make the engine heat begin to rise. Then they will usually drop temps as the truck begins to move again allowing cool air through radiator.
One last thing could be the gauge. My '86 is just starting to do this thing. The gauge has gone out of adjustment somehow and now is shows the truck almost to red. Checking under hood the temps seem very normal and nothing too hot, but the gauge has gotten tweaked and shows incorrectly. I have purchased a gauge to bypass the stock gauge and in the process of installing it.

[pennyman1]

Most aftermarket rads I have seem for these truck come with the Auto tranny hookups - just ignore them, or use them to cool the motor oil.