Manual tranny I.D.

[Morrow]

Hey everyone. I have a spare transmission that came with the truck and am wondering if I can use it as something is wrong with the current one. It has two levers on the left hand side just behind the slave cylinder. What do these do? The tranny in the truck does not have these.
Also wondering if the problem I have now is a clutch problem or tranny? Sometimes after the truck is warmed up and after some shifting, I can't get it into any gears unless I turn the truck off, put it in gear with the clutch in, start the truck up and let the clutch out. After that it shifts fine through the rest of the gears. Just replaced the master and slave cylinder. I am hoping to do the work myself

Thanks for any help

[pennyman1]

That tranny is not a D-50/MM tranny as far as I know. All manual trannys for these trucks have internal shift linkages.

[Morrow]

The parts tranny does have a slave cylinder mounted on it in addition to the levers. I also noticed that my existing tranny has two "ports" exactly where the levers are. Don't know if this helps. Thanks

[camoit]

pictures,,, please put them up along with any numbers you can find.

[Morrow]

Here is a photo. I couldn't find any significant numbers

[camoit]

WTF... Is THAT!!!!!!!!! Wow.... What is the rag covering at the back end? Does it have a tail shaft or a flange? Like for a 4X4 transfer case. I have never see one that uses the holes befor.
As for the shifting problem it sounds like the pilot bearing might be sticking and causing the input shaft to stick and rotate at the same speed as the crank. It might be worth wile to just pull the trans and check the clutch and pilot bearing. It does not sound like the problem is with the trany it's self, just the clutch.
Perhaps it came out of a Colt or Golant.
Anybody????


Here is a case in my garage to show the holes. So it is a Mitsu trany. Just using the lower shift holes.

521

[MainstreaM]

Could be a Van transmission. Far as I know, they never came factory with manual trans in the states.

Kane

[Morrow]

Thanks. Automatic then. I guess I won't be needing it. The end of the tranny has a sort of a flimsy metal cup housing, and inside there is just the output shaft. There is some motor oil leaking at the tranny so that could also be contributing to the bearing problem. Must be the rear main seal. What exactly is involved with pulling the tranny to get in there? Can I just move the tranny back to get in there and replace the seal and clutch or is it better to just drop it? Thanks

[DroppedMitsu]

If you're wanting to replace the rear crank seal then I would just drop the tranny, there wont be room unless you drop it.

[camoit]

The hole trany weighs around 70 pounds. So there a easy pull with a floor jack.
Take and pull the pan on the strange one and take a pict of the inside where the shift arms are. I have never seen one using the holes in the side of the trans. I would guess the shifter has the shift gate in it and is like an old Ford / Muncie type shifter. It could have the same gears as the one you have.

[Morrow]

I almost think that someone was already using it as a manual tranny. The ATF lines were plugged up with silicone, plus it has the slave cylinder on it. I found a clutch kit on Amazon made by Beck Arnley, only it is for the sport, and is 8 3/4X23X1 instead of 8 7/8X23X1. I wonder if this matters?

[camoit]

That is a manual trany, so some of the parts should work with the trany you have. The big difference will be the tail housing and out put shaft, where the shifter is. Looks like a 4 speed. I wonder what it came out of.
Look at how short it is. What is the width of the bell housing between the bolt hole centers on the two widest holes? That will narrow down the ID of it. Narrow or wide block. If it's a narrow block I have a new engine that will bolt up to it. From the archive. ( 12.5 inches = Narrow, 13.25 inches = Wide )

533

[Morrow]

looks like 13.25