1989 Mighty Max engine rebuild

[asmyser]

This is in response to my member introduction thread. Someone had said to post my current photos so you guys can see where the progress began. Just a little note: i am doing a rebuild on the engine in this beast, along with some minor improvements on the front end bumper, grill, and lights. the first photo was taken before my work started back on november 29th of 2013. then the following shots are all from yesterday:
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[royster]

Oh boy! A Garage Cat: what's it's name?

Seems strange to be SO familiar with the mess and stripped-down front ends, and in such a short period of time. That's a 2.0, yes?

Great to have such "before" pictures, because they show exactly how much work (and the quality OF it) when the "after" pictures come along.

Those tire dollies are cool, never saw those before.

Who's brain is that in the zip-lock bag on the driver's seat? I know from personal experience those zip-lock bags do NOT keep the brain-freshness in: I've had my brain in Tupperware, zip-locks and once in a non-lubricated condom, and it always dried out.

It is obvious this project requires donuts. Are you eating 112mm chocolate iced or crumb-sprinkled? It must be milimeters, remember: SAE donuts won't fit properly, and do not have the same donutocity as mm.

(There is an icon on your screen to delete humorous remarks: feel free to use it if these comments are distractive).

[asmyser]

I didn't even realize the cat was in the pictures, its name is Garfunkel. That is a 2.0. and the tire dollies make moving the non-running vehicle easy as pie when you have a cement garage floor, i can move the thing by myself. As far as the humor goes, it makes my repairs seem more worth it?

[royster]

I HAVE to assume there is another cat named "Simon" swishing around.

When we lose our sense of humor, life becomes too serious and the balance gets lost, so I'm glad to hear your positive reply.

This website is very wonderful for those of us conducting repairs, because, in a cyber way, we're not alone, and have a circle of reliable friends we can resource when we're in the unknown-zone. Likely no one in our real-time world cares about our project, so we have a forum with an appreciative audience to share our acheivements.

The down-side is it can be a very bad enabler for just conducting endless modifications and enourmous non-stop spending. My choice is to keep the little truck running happy, and giving it some decent looks as time goes by.

[asmyser]

Sounds great actually, and your absolutely right on the whole real-time world lack of care issue. Yeah, but is that a problem with the whole spending versus happy truck? I mean they have feelings too right?!?

[royster]

is that a problem with the whole spending versus happy truck? I mean they have feelings too right?!?

Deep question, and there are as many answers as there are truck enthusiasts: the personal values range broadly.

My view is that the truck needs to be running, first and foremost, before trying modifications...yet there are those who put every dime they have into do-dads and what Pep Boys defines as "custom"...
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...and there's a whole industry of worthless crap you can "customise" you truck/cars with.

"If you can't make it run good, make it look pretty."

Making the truck happy is: listening to it. It's the person's ego that costs so much in parts: the truck is happy with its timing being right, the oil level satisfactory, and occassionally be acknowledged as a faithful servant (and friend).

I don't push my spiritual~metaphysics views on this forum (I have my own website for that), but one I can share is about my F-150.

It had been a show-truck, and the previous owner never so much as put a stick of wood in the bed. In the early days of getting to know the truck, it conveyed that it wanted to be what it was built for: a work horse. And I let it be what it wanted to be.

It still has its basic good looks, but also has the pride of rolling over the concrete bridge it helped construct, having hauled no fewer than 500 bags of concrete over time to construct that bridge. At night, it sits amidst the structures and landscaping it hauled materials for. It has seldom complained or failed in the 7 years I've had it. On a spiritual note, I actually thank it every time I park it and turn off the key. Its clear coat is peeling, rust is coming through the fenders, and it is often the last machine around here to get attention.

But I listen to it, and let it be what it is.

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Something I noticed in our society is that the "heart-throbs" might have good looks, but they never DO anything. In my old age, I've come to appreciate those who pitch in and do their share, rather than coasting on appearance, that...inevitably...one day disappears. And if they've done nothing, then on that day, their personal currency is worthless.

[asmyser]

well the goal with this truck is to have a backup ride for when my main ride fails, and a nice ride to drive around on nice days. So the looking good is a plus, but the running good is a must and first priority.

[royster]

That is a GREAT looking little truck. I've never seen fender wells done that way, but it's tasteful and cool.

Having sane priorities is a survival technique in this world, today. When the cart goes before the horse, you're not getting your apples to market.

It isn't for me to say what people do with and to these trucks. But I see a lot of ill-placed priorities all the time, everywhere I go. And it seems that everybody forgets one small detail: without gasoline, these trucks aren't going anywhere, no matter what engine was stuffed into them with a shoe horn.

Having survived the "gas crisis" of 1979, I know the market is vulnerable and manipulated. It doesn take much to squeeze the American Balls and bring the world to a grinding halt. The automobile is a privelage, and a dubious one at that. When things collapse to the point of survival, we have no choice but to see what we felt were priorities.

Enough of my rant: this is your build thread, and I can delete anything I posted if you want. I simply feel it important to offer honest warnings in general: things won't be staying the same. That's just facing reality. (The flip side is: Nero played fiddle as Rome burned).

[asmyser]

Well i'm hoping that the truck which got somewhere in the mid 30s for mpg, that since gas prices will probably continue to go up in a ridiculous fashion that thi smay help relieve some stress in the future. As far as the fender wells go, i took the fenders from my old parts truck, and the previous fender "guards" or whatever they were didn't fit right, so my painter (a farmall and john deere tractor painter and detailer) suggested painting them on, It came out alright, and unless your looking for them, 75% of people don't notice anything anyway.

[royster]

You're certainly not putting on any 'airs': your photos reveal a very down-to-earth guy, comfortable in his own skin.

The mousetrap I just noticed. I got a warm laugh from it for many right reasons...not the least of which is the cat in another photo. Maybe it's that I relate to it so much: my garage is rife with mousetraps, because the cats keep catching the mice, playing with them and then letting them escape.

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My cats are "shape-shifters", too. If you weren't looking closely, you wouldn't see Garfunkle in this photo.
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[BradMph]

Ya those dollies look helpful. MY problem with them is my driveway. They would find every crack and get stuck in it or I would walk away and the truck would roll down the driveway.

[mitchi]

That would be my problem with them, is rolling away, down the driveway.

That being said, I still would like to have mine on them.

[asmyser]

oh, my driveway is dirty and rock, so i wouldn't be able to push it into the driveway, just keep them on the garage floor and all is good. They are very helpful though. in that two car garage with the truck on dollies i can fit three vehicles in it, when the truck isn't torn into a million pieces...

[asmyser]

Since i got the entire engine apart, i think i'm going to replace the clutch and such now, i have to get the flywheel turned down anyway. Are there any suggestions for the type of which clutch i should get?

[asmyser]

I don't know if i've revealed this fact yet, but i have two full engines, both with faulty parts, and i'm building one correct engine out of both of them, with some hopeful spare parts to keep around. I've attached multiple images of both engines, which are both the same. one with the balance shafts, and one without. I've also attached images of what prompted the engine rebuild to begin with.(oops) the last shows the oil pan with the shavings of the oops.
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[asmyser]

more photos, since i've been waiting on my engine machine work to be completed, i've been working on my bumper:
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[royster]

So you managed to get the dent out?

I couldn't SEE, it's so bright i can't look at it without sunglasses :grin:

[mitchi]

That bumper looks really good man.......I like it.

[asmyser]

Nah. I didnt like the way it looks. It was in rough shape. The end pieces are still mostly good though. I just got a full replacement. And the bumper lights i liked alot so i got a set.

[asmyser]

Ok, so i looked on rock auto and i see they have 5 different options for the clutch kit, what do i have to look out for in the options? does it really matter which one i get? i assume that th eones listed should all work with my vehicle, maybe someone here can straighten me out?

[royster]

No one here can straighten you out, asmyser: you're corrupted and unrepentant.

Just like the rest of us.

You want the kit to have the throw-out bearing and the plate alignment tool, plus the flywheel pilot bearing. When going for parts, I always try to aim in the middle price range.

When it comes to donuts, I always choose freshness. Donutocity is crucial, and nothing is kruller than stale donuts with donutitosis setting in: this is the condition that causes Elvis to appear in the wrinkling icing. Sure: it can get you $10,000 for the photograph, but while you're enjoying fame, your donuts are getting stale.

[asmyser]

thinking about this one: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1383137&cc=1206784
but i'm not sure..

[d50dave]

Don't cheap out on the clutch. Not saying you are, just speaking from experience. I bought one that wouldn't even hold enough to do a first gear chirp. With 108 hp, when they are all there, that's pretty bad. Yesterday I pulled the tranny because of a rattle to find a separated throw out bearing. Buy somewhere from middle to top of the range.

[asmyser]

so the list of parts needing acquisition keeps growing, now i need the following before i can start the full rebuild:
1. My engine back from the machinist (very important)
2. Clutch Kit
3. Motor Mounts
4. New Grille and Emblem
5. Various bolt replacements (because the originals just had to be so rusted that they broke in half at the sight of me and my ridiculous knack for breaking them in half)

in other news, i took some of the bumper mounts off of the new shiny bumper and painted them up a bit.

[asmyser]

Don't cheap out on the clutch. Not saying you are, just speaking from experience. I bought one that wouldn't even hold enough to do a first gear chirp. With 108 hp, when they are all there, that's pretty bad. Yesterday I pulled the tranny because of a rattle to find a separated throw out bearing. Buy somewhere from middle to top of the range.

I plan on buying an Exedy one, My machinist's clutch guy suggested that one for my truck.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2391358&cc=1206784

[asmyser]

i ordered my new grill, clutch kit and motor mounts today. and here is what i worked on today: the bumper mounts after a wire brushing and paint, and a front end touch-up with paint.
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[royster]

Oh, you absolutely gotta take advantage of the opportunity, and scrub the engine compartment! This is a prime time to get places clean that you can't otherwise, and the detail makes such a huge difference. Any number of cleaners will do...even cheap hand cleaner (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2954-Why-didn-t-I-Think-Of-That?p=26228&viewfull=1#post26228) (which actually works pretty good...see link) will get you down to original paint and clarity.

This detail will compound how well the engine looks when it goes back in.

We need to conduct a truck~beauty contest on this forum, and I'm nominating YOU!

[BradMph]

Power washer time, lol.

[royster]

Power washer time, lol.

Power washing doesn't do the same thing as hand-washing. Hand washing gets dirt off and leaves some shine. I'm always concerned about disconnecting stuff with a power wash. And I am not a big believer in traditional engine degreasers.

[asmyser]

the problem with cleaning the inside, is first, its inside a garage, and second: you said to use hand cleaner, but do i have to remove everything else inside the engine compartment? I'm a little afraid of doing that, if i can clean over the existing components i'd love to give it a try.

[royster]

I'm assuming your garage floor is sloped toward the door, so with a garden hose, it shouldn't be a problem: in fact, hosing down (and out) the floor afterwards only improves things.

You can use dish soap. If you have Dollar General or Family Dollar stores in your area, see if they have "Awesome!" cleaner in a half-gallon jug...of you can get the squirt bottle. It's a great, environmentally-friendly degreaser. The hand cleaner can loosen up and degrease the frame under the engine. It's an option, not a requirement.

There's not much I'd think you'd have to remove, except maybe the battery, and only to clean behind it. The engine compartment is designed to deal with water: you drive in the rain, right? Well, you're not going to hurt anything with a consciencious cleaning, and it will dry by the time you're ready to put things back together.

And you will be so glad you did, for all the right reasons.

[asmyser]

is this the cleaner that you are talking about royster?
http://www.amazon.com/LAS-PURPOSE-CONCENTRATED-TOTALLY-AWESOME/dp/B0017KT3IM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397495354&sr=8-2&keywords=awesome%21+cleaner

[asmyser]

i think i'm going to give it a whirl royster, you talked me into it. I had originally planned to do nothing with the inside of it, but i'll bag the intake and then scrub and spray her down. Hopefully it shows nicely when done, because you guys like pictures, i'll do before and after shots.

[royster]

That's indeed the stuff.

Covering the intake etc is a good idea....you might also want to cover the transmission, just to be safe, and anything else that might benefit from NOT getting wet. Rags, a paint brush and a scrub brush will get you some good results. Plus then you'll have a clean "environment" to be working in.

Once you start, you'll see it rather inspires the rest of the task.

[asmyser]

i believe you, i am going to get my supplies and friday i'll clean it up, roll it outside hopefully in the nice sun and get it clean. Should be getting my motor back shortly from the machinist.

[asmyser]

Alrighty royster. I'm glad you guys talked me into cleaning it up, Here is some eye candy, before and after shots along with the old and new grille.9369937393709374937193759372

[asmyser]

i also got my new clutch and motor mounts in the mail. I also talked to my machinist today and he says within the following wqeek he should be complete. Excitement is kicking in.:shock:

[royster]

Wow, what a huge difference...and you will be so glad you did this when the renewed engine goes back in.

If you were to evenly spray and wipe everything with ArmorAll, you will be stunned at the glowing results.

Nice job! You went the distance.

[mitchi]

wow, nice looking grille, good clean-up too.

Got me inspired to do mine.

[asmyser]

Thanks royster, definitly worth it mitchi

[asmyser]

So i got the engine parts back today. A whole truck bed worth. Now the fun begins. Probably will be starting saturday....

[Hiball76]

Very nice progression..

[asmyser]

Ill have pictures shortly as well. Thanks hiball!

[asmyser]

Alrighty, a handful of hours later i have some update photos:9722972397249725972697279728972997309731973 29733

[asmyser]

I also got the painted motor mounts in and I finished touching up the front end with paint.
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[asmyser]

She runs. Pictures and more details tonight.

[asmyser]

ok, so here are some pictures from day one (Yesterday 12 hours): Assembled the engine as well as drop it into the engine bay and get some of the other items installed.
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[asmyser]

Day Two: Finished the intake and the bumper grille and other small front end items, including a new horn.:
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[asmyser]

So after running the engine a little bit today, it doesn't seem to be running properly, some insight from the peanut gallery of experts would be greatly appriciated. The problem i have is two things that may be related. The first problem is illustrated in the image, is a vacuum hose missing from this?:
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Second problem, When i accelerate the engine pulses a bit, and it doesn't seem to run in its full potential, also sometimes when i accelerate it accels, but when i get to a certain part of the pedal pushing it studders until i release the pedal a little and it works better. Please help with this...

[royster]

The photo shows no B belt for that silent shaft: did you eliminate both silent shafts?

[asmyser]

I did.

[royster]

I have no personal experience regarding this topic, but from what I've read, you will regret eliminating the balance shafts within 10,000 miles. My only experience with the silent shafts is them being out of sync, and the vibration it caused.

I wish you well on the (beautiful!) rebuild, but you might have engineered a fatal flaw into the rebuild by eliminating the shafts. Time will tell, and I trust that if there ARE ill-affects, you'll report them here.

As today is my last day on the internet, I'm glad to have gotten the chance to see the photos. I hope to post a few more, myself, before disappearing into the real world. You did some wonderful work, and I'm sure you'll be very satisfied with your beautiful truck.

[asmyser]

So after running the engine a little bit today, it doesn't seem to be running properly, some insight from the peanut gallery of experts would be greatly appriciated. The problem i have is two things that may be related. The first problem is illustrated in the image, is a vacuum hose missing from this?:
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Second problem, When i accelerate the engine pulses a bit, and it doesn't seem to run in its full potential, also sometimes when i accelerate it accels, but when i get to a certain part of the pedal pushing it studders until i release the pedal a little and it works better. Please help with this...

Any insight on this by chance? And thank you.

[tylerkhn]

Any insight on this by chance? And thank you.

Have you tried messing with your carburetor adjustment screw? Kind of sounds like it could be running lean or rich as far as the sputtering goes.

Also looks like the stock carburetor, have you thought about upgrading? I know the stock carbs fail a lot.

[asmyser]

Well if you could point me in the right direction of the screw of adjustment that eould be fantastic. I thought about new but have not decided on it yet.

[asmyser]

For the record i did find that it needed to be capped, so i went to the auto parts store and picked up a variety pack of rubber vacuum caps and replaced all of the on the carb. The engine purrs now, i just have the fine tune the timing and she will be ready to run.

[asmyser]

Ok fellas. I need some help still. Ajy input would be greatly appriciated. The truck still isnt running right. I believe the issue is with tje carb or fuel pump. The issue i have is when i am driving at a constant speed or drifting in gear the engine buckles and pulseates the entire truck. It does not happen when i accelerate or when idleing. Thanks in advance!!!?

[noahwins]

Is the truck lifted? Check the driveline and pinion angle. Maybe check the motor and transmission mounts, too. Wild ass guess.

[ragragtimetime]

still sounds like carb/ignition timing/vacuum (assuming you changed fuel & air filters).....i realize you have the stock carb but some troubleshooting points in this bulletin (updated by bradmph) may help http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=9838&d=1399705464 if you have trouble viewing....most of it is also scanned on my file.

[asmyser]

not lifted or lowered. I've never replaced the EGR valve, do you think this could possibly be the issue?

[ragragtimetime]

i think it would be more consistent with defective EGR. they are pricey....you can clean it, the SUB EGR, & pcv. give more symptoms to work with (black exhaust smoke?) & what you have replaced/added.

[asmyser]

The pcv is new. Most of everything is replaced except intake, starter, and alternator. I have no noticeable symptoms other then it pulsating during constant movement and slowing down while in gear.

[ragragtimetime]

under what conditions can you make the symptom happen? a specific speed? a specific rpm? will it only occur when in motion? u-joints in good condition? spark plug condition give any clues?

[BradMph]

Maybe it's time for a Weber carb. These stock carbs (Mikuni) seem to be a lot of the problems with erratic engine running.

And what happen to the "The engine purrs now, i just have the fine tune the timing and she will be ready to run. "?

Is there something your not telling us here after it was running so well? Don't chase the problem with money unless your sure it will fix it.

[asmyser]

Jumped the gun a bit i fear. It idles great after timing it. No specific speed or rpm. Just when in gear going at a constant speed and when not applying gas. How difficult is it to replace the carb? And what type of cost approx. Is attached to that?

[BradMph]

It's not hard to replace carb. Weber gives all the directions and we also have manuals here you can download on an install also. The Weber kits come with all the hardware and gaskets, you will have to do a little thought on the linkage connection but it hardly can be called difficult. You should be able to replace a carb in a few hours and have it running and mixture set. It's one of the best increases in horsepower and I think I even get better fuel mileage with my Weber. You will have to block off your EGR valve stuff probably since it will not be really used, but Weber gives all the info on what is to be done. We can help also if you have any problems since over half the members probably run them or have. The carbs run from about $250 to $300 and you'll never have to deal with the old Mikuni again. You can probably clean it up and sell it on Craig's list or EBay and make some money back to help pay for the new carb. If you do buy a Weber, Redline is a good place and EBay, but look around to find a good price. Most of all be sure you get the real weber and not these fakey Webers that people find on the web.

If you have to have your vehicle smog certified, you may check what your allowed to do by way of changes in your state. My vehicle is exempt from smog test now because of it's manufacture date.
I'm not trying to push a carb on you, make your own choice if you find out your carb is bad and it will cost more to fix then getting another carb.

[asmyser]

Ok, i figure its something with the carb/intake/something on that side of the engine, it has to be, i just need to figure out how to pinpoint the issue. I would like to just replace the carb with a nicer one anyway, but have never delved into that line of engine compartment work and it scares me a bit.

[asmyser]

also if its just the egr valve, replacement cost on that would be alot less than a new carb. Also if i got the new carb is there any other part i shoul dbe replacing while it is off?

[asmyser]

Alrighty, so i took the egr off and found that elusive vacuum hose leak:
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While everything is off i replaced the vacuum hose, The EGR seems to be alright, its got some buildup but it seems to be functioning properly. I did the "depress and hold your finger over the hole" test and it passed that, but that's as much as i know about them. I also replaced the gasket. Still got some leaks, and i'm not 100% sure its running perfect yet, but that seemed to make a difference. I think my timing is off at the distributor which may be causing some of my other issues. I'm also going to run some fuel system cleaner through the second tank of gas and possibly a bottle or two over the next couple tanks. I'll post an update in a couple days to verify how it is running.

[asmyser]

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[asmyser]

Ok. I need some kore expert help. The truck seems to run three times better. But there is still a leak under the hood. It may be normal bust i need advice. There is a hose coming off the fuel pump the spritizs when the truck is running. Im not exactly sure what this is.

[asmyser]

There is a hose that is attached and gets routed under the oil pan and then is open. Im not sure how else to explain without pictures

[noahwins]

It's spraying fuel? Don't drive it in that condition!

[asmyser]

Well it some sort of overflow or something. Im just not sure if its supposed to be doing this or not.

[asmyser]

ok, so i didn't get an updated picture. On the fuel pump the pictures of the thing below attaches to the pump, is this supposed to go under the truck like it does, is this supposed to be fed somewhere else? And is it supposed to spritz when running under the truck like it does? I may even have it rigged up wrong, dut this is the only cable i removed from the fuel pump that didn't go somewhere else within the truck, so if its supposed to that might be som eof my problems as well.
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[asmyser]

So in a quick attempt to fix the tuning issue with the truck i found something interesting. With the timing light on any one of the wires and when the engine gets revved up the light isn't 100 percent constant (as in how a timing light should be functioning), it seems like it drops spark here and there. I'm wondering what i should replace to try to resolve this.

[asmyser]

so after looking around the forum i think i'm going to replace the ignition coil and the "white piece" beside it which i think is the ballast resistor, however i am having trouble finding this part.

[BradMph]

Ballast resistor and coil can be checked for non working very easily with ohm tester and a continuity tester. Just in case you need to save your money.

[asmyser]

Alrighty, maybe i'll give it a whirl tonight, see if i can't find the issue. Thanks Brad!

[asmyser]

OK, once again thanks Brad! I checked out the ballast resistor tonight and it seems fine, it gets HOT when the vehicle is on and it seems to be working OK. The ignition coil still has me concerned though. I found out i'm not good at troubleshooting electrical ignition issues, even with the proper equipment. But i did find out that the inconsistent timing light issue is still apparent after taking apart the ignition coil and resistor and cleaning them well. I also was playing around with the timing light some, on what i believe is the 4th wire the timing light is inconsistent when the truck is just idling, i'm thinking this isn't good. I'm thinking its the ignition coil not sending enough spark. Input from the internet d50 gods would be greatly appreciated. (below is the wire that i had the timing light on that the light was inconsistent when just idling)
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[BradMph]

The light is inconstant on number 4 wire? have you tried switching a plug wire to see maybe if the plug wire is ground out on something or has a break in it? Take the #3 wire and switch the entire wire to #4 and put number #4 wire onto the #3 distributor spot and plug. Just checking the wire for a problem and relocating it and rechecking the #4 again. If the #4 stops being intermittent then your spark plug wire is bad. Could try another coil also.

[asmyser]

i'm not 100 percent sure what is going on, this all stemmed from just trying to get the darn thing in time using a timing light. and when i have it set to where it needs to be, (according to documentation) then it barely runs and when i add some gas to it it backfires in the carb. Maybe i am doing something else incorrectly. but i still need to figure out why the spark plug wires are giving me inconsistent flashing in the timing light.

[asmyser]

after looking back through some pictures i may have found a timing issue as well, Maybe you guys could take a look fo rme and se ei foyu can decipher it?
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Is there an easy way to see if the top mark and the bottom mark line up without taking both the front covers off? Also, from the picture i can't tell which mark on the wheel is the correct mark. And i believe when putting the engine together we tried 4 or 5 times to get it right, do you guys have any tips for me as far as making sure the timing is set properly?

[royster]

If I'm seeing your cam mark correctly, you are aligning it with the top of the cylinder head, thus making it one tooth off. The actual mark for the cam is a cast-relief mark just below the cylinder head. If off, definitely would cause problems. There is a dot on the cam gear that aligns with the dimple on the cylinder head. (I say that just to be absolutely clear).

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[asmyser]

Ok, so i checked the timing yesterday and it seems ok, but one thing i noticed is that my upper timing mark isn't on a tooth, its weird in the fact that it makes the timing not 100% accurate and i can go one way or the other very close to the correct mark. Has anyone else run into this? Also if the bottom timing mark is lined up with TDC, which i'm assuming it is, thats how i verified the timing is darn close.
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[royster]

upper timing mark isn't on a tooth

That is correct, and your photo shows the "dot" on the gear that is the intended timing mark.

If you take apart the crank pully components, the timing marks do all align in the same location: it wouldn't make any sense to have components that go back together just any ol' way you want. So your crank timing mark is showing you the correct timing location.

My experience has been that it takes several patient attempts to get the belt on just right: pullys or gears want to shift and fight you. I am also of the opinion that your B belt and oil silent shaft elimination is causing some degree of problem, though I'm no expert in that area. The main importance is that your tension is on the oil gear side, coming from the crank on up to the cam.

[asmyser]

The only way i can get it any closer then what it is now i, d have to make a rotation or two with either of the cogs and see if it geta me closer then it is, wont that mess it up more then fix?

[royster]

Is there an easy way to see if the top mark and the bottom mark line up without taking both the front covers off?

There's NOTHING easy about procedures on these engines, it seems. If you feel your timing is off, the only way to re-position and re-tension the timing belt is to remove the front covers. 'Pain in th' puhtooki, I know, but it is by painstaking actions we get satisfying results in life. Elsewise, we're using "miracle products" to hope our lives keep running.

Had I not "bit the bullet" and removed my cyclinder head (after the timing belt stripped), I would have never found the core problem (slipped valve guides and scored cam bearings). Camoit suggested "just replacing the belts", which would have eventually promoted catastrophic failure had I taken that casual advice. (No one's a Saint). In another phase of repair I found problems only by taking the time to tear down (again!) components to comfortably access the problem area.

I say this as encouragement for you to go the full distance to do the corrections to the best of your ability.

[asmyser]

alright, I appreciate greatly your advice royster. I have some other stuff going on right now and some ignition parts coming in, time will tell how i make out. Thanks

[Merrill]

The alignment is fine. Once tension is applied, they'll be a bit off. It's not going to kill the engine, smash valves, or anything else. The reference for the crank shouldn't be the mark on the pulley and timing cover. With all the years of use, and the fact that the plastic cover won't be set dead on, means it's a lousy reference. Use the timing reference on the t-belt drive gear.

If the timing light is inconsistent on every cylinder, but the engine isn't fumbling and missing, you probably have a timing light issue lol. The clamp usually needs to be very tight. Timing lights aren't "smart" - they only do what they're told to do.

I'm not sure why you are clamping it to the other wires.... just needs to be set on 1.

I find these engines to be ridiculously simple. It's not hard to put it all together, but it is easy to get sucked into believing something is catastrophic and failure will happen all over. These systems are very simple, very cut and dry, very easily followed (repairs).

[BradMph]

Your going to have to go by the marks they give unless you know how to degree a cam with a degree wheel and that's always fun to do, lol.
Once you figure out if you made a mistake on timing, your going to be a pro at it for life.

Here is a youtube video that might help you. It also shows about the balance shaft being pointed correctly and the distributor markings and explains when on compression stroke.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9GivbK-bu0

[asmyser]

well i put the new coil in and it always seems to run a little better with new parts in it, but it is still surging when going at a constant speed. I'm not sure what else to check.

[asmyser]

So just for fun today i decided to try to pull the spark plugs while running to see what happens. The third spark plug doesnt seem to make that big of a difference when unplugged from the distributor. Any help troubleshooting would be nice, and thanks in advanced. Im also working on the chrome wheels as a side note.

[asmyser]

So just for fun today i decided to try to pull the spark plugs while running to see what happens. The third spark plug doesnt seem to make that big of a difference when unplugged from the distributor. Any help troubleshooting would be nice, and thanks in advanced.

So i meant spark plug wires. I was unplugging all the wires from the distributor.

[geezer101]

...just for future reference - when using a timing light make sure the pick up is as close to #1 spark plug as possible. And you will get a little bit of fluctuation with the timing light as there's all sorts of intermittent play in a distributor style ignition system (the older the distributor - more play).

[asmyser]

Ok, still need some help, im not quite sure what else to do at this point. The problem is as follows: when moving at a constant speed in gear the vehicle surges and acts funny. Its really bad at low rpms in 1st gear going 5-10mph. When accelerating it is fine. It also doesnt seem tohave 100% power

[geezer101]

Does your distributor have vacuum advance on it? The vacuum actuator on it might be bypassing air. Or maybe the vacuum hose to it has a split/leak etc. Check it out.

[asmyser]

Ok, so i'm not sure how to check for it not working, so i looked for leaks in the hose and it seems fine. I also started the truck up and uplugged that hose, and nothing changed, even when revved up. So, what exactly does that do and how to test it. Help would be greatly appriciated.

[geezer101]

You can do a simple test to see if it is working by disconnecting the hose and physically applying vacuum to the advance unit on the distributor while the engine is running and see if it affects idle.

[asmyser]

Is there a way to do it without the proper tool? Any trick?

[geezer101]

Yep, easy. Take the vacuum hose and suck on the end of it. You may end up with a mitsubishi aftertaste but it will be more than adequate vacuum to make the advance on the distributor actuate.

[asmyser]

Just a quick update. I've talked to a local guy that works on Carbs, hes going to rebuild the one that i got on my truck, and take a look at the distributor and if it needs work, fix it up as well. I've also talked to my painter about touch ups and different things. Hopefully i will have more updates over the next couple weeks.

[asmyser]

Update: Funds have been low since my last post and haven't had money nor time to get the carb rebuilt, however i've been on a mission to fix all leaks that are present.

At this point i have it narrowed down to one last "leak". Coming from my Fuel Pump is a vent or something of that sort that runs from the top of the pump down to below the oil pan and then nowhere. Fuel spritzes out of that while the engine is running, is this supposed to happen or is it a sign of a bad fuel pump?

[camoit]

That should run back to a tube on the firewall and into the tank. If gas is coming out thats a bad thing.

[pennyman1]

that is the return line from the pump to the tank - there is supposed to be a small line that the hose goes on that goes back to the tank.

[asmyser]

Alright, well that is something that i need to fix then, does anybody maybe know where to find a diagram of it. i checked the manual and its not quite clear.

[asmyser]

Alright, i looked it up in the manual and it is of no help at all. Maybe i can get some more clarification from you guys I've circled the item in question.
12224

[maxdsm]

Fuel return

[maxdsm]

Fuel pump

[camoit]

Alright, well that is something that i need to fix then, does anybody maybe know where to find a diagram of it. i checked the manual and its not quite clear.

If your hood has not been replaced there should be a sticker. Some times you get lucky.

[asmyser]

not original hood and the hood is to a different engine size so that doesn't help...I'm still having a hard time finding anything that is missing connections. I can't find where this thing would go...

[asmyser]

I'm also having other issues, i believe my timing is off a tooth. ALSO i'm having a weird thing happening with the coolant. When i try to start the vehicle the coolant gets pressurized, and is pressurized even after trying to start the vehicle, this is when its cold as so heat isn't causing it. I'm not sure what would cause this.

[noahwins]

I suck at camera phone. Can someone flip the images? From my Motor emissions guide, HTH.

12245

12246

12247

12248

12249

[maxdsm]

Flipped.

[pennyman1]

If the coolant is pressurizing immediately after cranking, you have engine compression leaking into your cooling system - maybe head gasket or cracked head or block. That is the only way it could pressurize the system so quickly. Surprized it didn't blow out freeze plugs or hoses.

[asmyser]

without tearing it apart is there a way to see which one if either is blown, i don't know why it would have blown i only ran it for 15 minutes and it didn't get that hot.

[BradMph]

Compression test or take plugs out and disconnect coil and turn it over to see which one shoots water out of it. Also the one with a clean spark plug will also tell you.
Deciding on which cylinder is not going to fix it, you will have to remove the head anyway and fix it. Just hope the head doesn't have a crack, usually between MCA jet valve or intake and exhaust valves. Still fixable though.

Pressurizing the overflow tank is also a good sign you have a popped head gasket. I have had one balloon out until it was almost round.

Running time doesn't matter, it could of blown after you shut the truck off just the time before. Motors will climb in heat after shutting down and if the weather is cold enough it will suck some in and crack it. It doesn't take much to crack or blow a gasket in these trucks. Age is a good way, overheat, or it just decides to do it. It's nothing really abnormal with our trucks, some just take extra precautions to try and prevent it.

[asmyser]

well looks like i'm tearing the manifolds off and checking the head tomorrow. updates probably for tomorrow

[maxdsm]

Yes notorious for cracking....⬇

[maxdsm]

coolant...

[asmyser]

So I took it down and it looks like a cracked head. I'm taking it to a guy for a second opinion. The question next is, where do I get another?

[maxdsm]

You have 3 choices eather get the one you have cleaned and fixed depending on where the crack is . buy a used j yard head or buy a new one online there are several sites online that will sell you a new or refurbished head it just cost a lot 300-400 range complete.

[noahwins]

I have a head off an '89 2.0 I have no use for. I don't know if it's cracked or not (the truck did overheat) but I can take it off tomorrow night (left tools at the shop) and check it. You can have it if you pay shipping.

[BradMph]

Well, I'm sorry I had to give you the bad news prior to the bad news. But, there is good times ahead for you. This forum for one is the best and as you can see...people come to help. Now all you need to do is decided which way your going to go with repairs.
The thing I noticed to be one of the best things in preventing heads from cracking is to re-torque the head about 500 miles after installing a fixed or rebuilt head. Over heating is the number one problem of course for these issues and that is your number 2 things to do. Watch the temps on these trucks. If you see it climbing, pull it over fast and check for problems.

I heard a rumor about Mitsubishi years ago concerning the engine assembly and torqueing of head bolts from the factory. I'm not sure of any fact to this, but apparently when heads were installed on many Mitsubishi engines the rear head bolts were not torqued correctly. This was thought to be the main reason for numbers of crack heads and blown head gaskets in past trucks. Though the history I have seen with the trucks includes inferior metals and bad castings in many of Mitsubishi vehicles in the '80's years. One example are these darn exhaust manifolds that once were recalled for cracks.
Anyway, your not the lone ranger with your truck. We all have had the same thing happen to us long time owners as you have. I personally replaced the head 3 times and my 4th has been perfect. This might of been because I purchased a head without them MCA Jet valves. I just don't think the engine likes the burst of incoming air like that and creates a hot torch effect IMO.
Keep us posted on your fix, we can help with any issues you have during your fix.

[pennyman1]

that and dissimilar metals expanding and contracting at different rates - like putting a wedge in the middle of a log and slowly pushing until the log splits. Jet valves did help with performance when the trucks were new, but were a nightmare for the long haul

[Andy 2]

I got a brand new head from Clearwater Cylinder Head with the cam and valves installed, ready to bolt in for $375. My engine was rebuilt a year ago and the head wasn't replaced at that time.( It was a reman that I had put on 5 years ago to replace the original that was cracked). 8 months after the rebuild I was going through coolant again. I never had coolant in any of the cylinders like you have in the pic, just one really clean cylinder. I bought a new head from Clearwater and installed it myself. One thing I noticed was that the top of the block had been machined flat during the rebuild. That was never done when the first head was replaced as the engine stayed in the truck. I've since been told that could have been the reason for my subsequent troubles. I would check the top of that block to be sure its perfectly flat before you put a new head on it. Torquing the head bolts again when the engine is hot is also important.

[asmyser]

Ok, i'll keep that in mind, i'm about ready to put the head in but i noticed that i may me missing some pins that go between the head and the block to line everything up. Can anybody shed some light on if they are needed and where i can maybe get new ones?

[asmyser]

After much research I noticed there should be dowel pins to align the head gasket and head to the block. Got my local machine shop to whip me up some, but I noticed a bad vacuum line going from the brake booster to the intake. Any help where I may get one of these from. Local auto parts store said junkyard. Any other ideas out there floating around?

[pennyman1]

If its a hard line, make it out of a length of fuel line tubing the same size from the parts store - use vacuum hose and clamps to hook it up.

[Andy 2]

I seem to remember the alignment pins being hollow alignment tubes. There was one at the front and one at the rear. This pic shows them clearly. 12419. Fluid probably needs to flow through them, coolant or oil. These were the only pins on my 2.6

[jdmckay]

So I took it down and it looks like a cracked head. I'm taking it to a guy for a second opinion. The question next is, where do I get another?

TopEnd Performance (http://www.racetep.com) (vendor that sold me my Weber) has 2 NEW heads that will drop on these motors (mine same as yours). Both are machined w/out Jet Valves ( very good idea if replacing a head). Last time I checked (2.5 yrs. ago) the least expensive was just over $300. The more expensive head designed for Turbo setups, so not really needed for G63B naturally aspirated motors.

Just a FYI: should replace head bolts (if you don't have studs)... some people reuse old, but those threads collapse on 1st torqueing and do not torque accurately or hold torque after 1st use. I just replaced my head, had difficulty finding head bolts. Found 'em at HeadBolts.com (http://headbolts.com) (owner was extremely helpful: did not have 'em when I first spoke with him but he found them for me).

FYIW II: I'm new working on these old Mighty Max trucks (used to restore old SAABS for a hobby, maintained small fleet of Chevy/GM trucks when I used to swing a hammer for a living: eg. have experience and can figure things out, but these truck have their peculiarities/uniqueness). Mostly because of time constraints, just finishing my truck up last few weeks. Full motor rebuild. After getting acquainted w/my MM (mostly reading here) also decided to spring for the Weber and install an electric fuel pump.

Just finishing final testing today, but had it out for +/- 30 miles of driving in last few days and it's... sweet. Runs smoother/stronger by a good margin on the Weber. I largely decided to go with it because, although several local Carb shops said they could rebuild my Mikuni... after reading up found out practically nobody had one of those successfully rebuilt (for many reasons).

Ok, just my $0.186 (and falling).

Good luck w/your truck.

[jdmckay]

It's not hard to replace carb. Weber gives all the directions and we also have manuals here you can download on an install also.

Is there a specific location on our site where the manuals you mention, and others are located?

I've also seen references from experienced posters here they have a "page" or "file" on specific subjects, but through this last few weeks getting my truck spruced up finding these has been hit or miss. I've found/read your wiki articles (very helpful), but that's only tech articles I found in one spot.

[camoit]

All manuals and other source reference can be found here. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php/39-Resource-Center

[asmyser]

ok, so i got it all back together.Howqever she doesn't run. I either have a timing issue. although the marks by the belt are both spot on. And i replaced my mechanical fuel pump and i may have switched the lines going to the carb. Does anybody that knows mikuni carbs know which line goes to what location on the carb.

what i need to know is: does the red line hook up to the top line or the bottom line on the fuel pump. I know i have the intake line properly installed.

12497

[pennyman1]

Are you sure you have the mechanical pump arm in the right way onto the cam - are you getting fuel flow from the pump to the carb? The big line coming from the frame goes to the inlet side of the pump (bottom), the line to the carb is the middle, and the small top fitting goes on the line back to the tank.

[asmyser]

well that confuses me, because i have three that are about the same size, and then a smaller one on top the fuel pump. The one coming directly frum the fuel filter from the tank i believe is the one that goes on the arm of the fuel pump that is single. Its the other arm that has two more hookups that i may have gotten confused on.

[asmyser]

I need to know where 3 and 4 go to on the card, i believe i either have issues with timing, or the fuel lines being swapped.I'm pretty sure i got the fuel pump installed properly with the pin installed properly and all that.

12499

[Andy 2]

If You go to the Wiki page you will see a Fuel Management System forum. In that forum you will find a mechanical fuel pump diagram. Try pouring a bottle cap full of gas down the carb with the throttle wide open. When you close the throttle the choke should close. Then crank it over. It may take more rpm than your battery can give you to pull fuel all the way back up from the tank. If your timing is right and you have a spark it should fire and that will prime your fuel pump. You may have to repeat this a couple of times.

[asmyser]

Yeah I've looked at that diagram a couple times but the return to tank also goes to the carb. Along with the line to the carb

[jdmckay]

An easy test for your fuel line hookups to pump is, disconnect top line coming out of pump at carb & get someone to crank the motor. If you are getting fuel, you've got it right.

As far as identifying which line is which: there's 3 lines connected to the tank. Supply, return and vapor.

- vapor line runs down firewall from charcol box, winds behind brake master cylinder (I have same year MM as you).
- Supply line comes into engine bay from frame a bit more forward then return line. The metal line (eg: where it connects to flexible line, just above motor mount if I recall) is slightly bigger then return line. The supply line flexible section to fuel pump has a hard, plastic section over it shaped somewhat in shape of a long "S" (maybe 18 inches long). This hard section is longer and has more twists then the one on return line.
- Again, return line comes into engine bay a bit further back towards firewall then supply line. If you can get a light down there (or get underneath and observe), you can visually see the smaller hard line (return).

I just finished replacing my Mikuni w/a Webber and do not recall fuel hookup locations for the Mikuni... I pulled Mikuni off and threw it away.

As far as timing goes: did you pull distributor out completely?

If so, I had to do something do get it back in properly I haven't seen mentioned here or in YouTube Videos on how to do this: eg. I had to remove thermostat casing from intake manifold. I installed my dist. several time before doing this, and that casing always forced me to turn dist. housing a bit clockwise further then seemed correct.... motor would puff and hickup like it wanted to start but never got past that. Read a bunch of stuff where others tried "guessing" tricks. Decided to pull that thermostat flange, distributor went in much more smoothly and motor fired right up afterwards.

[asmyser]

Well that clears some stuff up. But from my last picture line 3 and 4 both go to the carb....and always have, even before swapping to a new one

[jdmckay]

Well that clears some stuff up. But from my last picture line 3 and 4 both go to the carb....and always have, even before swapping to a new one

Don't know if I can provide you certainty on this... sure one of more experienced hands here will chime in. I have no diagram of Mikuni fuel line locations w/me. If nobody helps, I take a look @ my Chilton's manual when I get home later today.

Here's (http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/1889-Weber-Install?p=17214&viewfull=1#post17214) a good diagram of fuel pump connections (posted by Brad).

[asmyser]

yeah i got it figured out, got it all back together and it runs better then i remember. I went out this morning verified all timing marks, and crank it a dozen times or so and it started right up, it must have been flooded yesterday. I didn't take it for a spin since there's an inch of ice outside and the truck is two wheel, but it idles great... Updates when the weather is nicer. Thanks for everyones help thus far.

[BradMph]

Success stories are what keep us going here, plus the billions of dollars in donations we get each quarter,jk!. Congratulations on a healthy running truck :clap:.

[asmyser]

Well i can't guarantee its completely healthy yet, but hopefully this weekend will melt all ice and snow and i can take it for a ride. Speaking of donations, i did what i can.

[asmyser]

Well iwas looking back at pictures and maxdsm posted the following picture on post number 120 and that pictures shows the same thing i have coming from my fuel pump, i think.
12623

[camoit]

This is one ling thread that's for sure. Sorry I haven't been much help lately but for the slow season things have been real busy.

[maxdsm]

coolant...

Correction
This picture the line in front of the block that attaches to the block is what goes to the fuel pump . it must be an overflow or breather for the fuel pump but it connect s to nothing .I slid the line over it and it fits perfectly.

[asmyser]

Ok so the thing I circled in the picture in your truck also just goes under the engine and then nowhere, just like mine.

[asmyser]

Ok, timing gurus out there. The truck idles ok, (its cold outside). I may or may not have an issue with my timing. And here's why i think this. The truck seems to run okay, but when i hook up the timing light to it, the mark shows up at about 10 or 11 o'clock. which is way outside of the "window" on the cover for the belts. Now, we had a hard time getting the thing to start the first time, Has anyone else ran into this issue before? When i turn the distributor so the marks get closer to lining up the engine almost shuts itself off. I'm not sure if this is something to be concerned about or not, Hopefully you guys can tell me.

[Andy 2]

It sounds like timing. The timing light shows when spark occurs with relation to crank position. If all the ignition wires are properly connected and in the correct firing order, and you can't keep it idling at 7-10 degrees advance, my guess would be you have a valve timing issue. Being one tooth off on the timing belt might be the cause.

[asmyser]

I checked the two belt timing marks multiple times they are both dead on. And as far as the firing order i went by what the haynes manual shows.

[pennyman1]

could the dizzy be off 1 tooth?

[asmyser]

Well that's my thought. i got so frustrated with getting that in place and running i have no idea if its in time or not, i got to a point where i was guessing and going by if it sounded like it was going to start. I didn't realize the gear had a timing mark on it until a couple hours ago, so i went by placement of the rotor and where it was pointing. i just don't want to take that out and end up with it all messed up again. Am i right in thinking that there are timing marks on the distributor?

[Andy 2]

You can mark the distributer below the cap right under where the #1 cylinder wire is. Then take the cap off and turn the engine with a ratchet until the timing mark hits TDC. One end of the rotor should line up with the mark you made. If it doesn't then your distributer is off a tooth. Just pull it out until you can just turn the rotor and move it one tooth. If it lines up with your mark when you push it back in it should be good.

[asmyser]

So I took the truck out for a little today. Everything seems to be resolved. Even the studdering and jerking it did at a constant speed before. The only thing is I think I still have some tiny timing issue. When I really punch the gas it seems a little sluggish.

[BradMph]

As long as it is not Jerking and that is causing the stuttering, lol Im sorry I couldn't help it. ;)

Glad your trucks working better...Is your distributor advancing ok for you, accelerator pump squirting into carb, Vacuum lines all good. Timing should be around 7º BTDC? Should have that on a sticker under hood. Check the burn by looking at plugs, might help show lean or rich. Sluggish sounds like a lean problem.

[asmyser]

well the 7degrees is what i can't get. It runs and starts so well, however the last time i checked the timing the mark was around 11 o'clockish. I haven't checked since i got it working so well so maybe it came around and is on the mark now, i'll have to check and get back to you.

[Andy 2]

I'm assuming by saying 11:00 that your telling us your timing is advanced. Did you disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hose when checking the timing? If you did and you can't get the timing down to between 7 and 10 degrees at around 800 rpm you might be a bit too lean as Brad mentioned. What kind of timing light are you using?

[asmyser]

Well i got her out and started her up, ran a little rough for a couple minutes and then smoothed out. I still think there is a carb issue so i'm going to finally take to to a carb guy to look at and give his 2 cents.

also unfortunately i have a couple drips (half dollar sized) under the engine everytime i park it, so i have a leak somewhere towards the back of the engine, i believe its anti-freeze since thats what i smell, as well as the consistency of color of the liquid under the vehicle matches. unfortunately in my town is impossible to get pressure tubing\hose on this truck now.

[Andy 2]

can you see around your heater hoses to see if its wet there?

[asmyser]

Yeah, i'm pretty sure its coming from somewhere around the heater hoses on the back side of the engine. however, it is reall yhard to see with the air filter on, so i'll hav eto run it for a little someday and then take the air filter and housing off so i can see back there to locate it.

[asmyser]

Well the dreaded leak was right where i should have thought it would have been. The valve cover didn't make a good seal towards the back drivers side. I took it apart and found the leak once i could see better back there. i ran it for about 15 miles and it appears that there is no leak yet. Now to get it inspected and registered again, and then take her to the carb guy to work his magic...

[asmyser]

So while doing my quarterly backup of all my stuff i found my pictures from 2008 when i replaced the front end of my truck
14257142581425914260

[Noahhtavaress]

I need to know where 3 and 4 go to on the card, i believe i either have issues with timing, or the fuel lines being swapped.I'm pretty sure i got the fuel pump installed properly with the pin installed properly and all that.

12499
What does the first one go to

[Noahhtavaress]

I need to know where 3 and 4 go to on the card, i believe i either have issues with timing, or the fuel lines being swapped.I'm pretty sure i got the fuel pump installed properly with the pin installed properly and all that.

12499i need to know what the first goes to

[asmyser]

So i dropped a new battery in it this past weekend and took her out for a spin. After some new gas it ran well. But still doesnt seem to be times right or something. Theres alot of rattle at "bogged down"/low rpm running, and im not sure where to start. Ive come to get some help if at all possible, lets see if we cant get it running like its prime again. I appriciate any help anybody can give.

[asmyser]

One detail that i believe is important, it idles perfect, for hours

[geezer101]

Check that your vacuum advance on the distributor is working. Every distributor I have looked at in JY's have non-functioning vacuum units. This will definitely kill acceleration from a standing start and throttle response. p.s. new genuine distributors are still available from various Mitsubishi parts warehouses from as little as $42 US.

[asmyser]

Ok, can you give me some more direction as to how to do that, do you mean for just leaks or anything in particular?

[geezer101]

Easy to test it - take the vacuum hose for the distributor advance from the carb end and suck on it. If you can draw air through it without it holding vacuum, the diaphragm inside of it has split. Hopefully this will help to identify the problem and you can get back to enjoying the truck running properly again.

[asmyser]

I checked the vacuum, seems fine. Unsure of what to check next.

[asmyser]

Anybody else have any ideas for me? I Guess i could always check the timing again.