88mm tryin to kill itself

[dazednconfused]

ok for about a year now its been doing this. ill be driving along and when it seems the motor gets to temp it starts bogging down. acts like its not getting gas or its getting flooded. only seems to happen at 40mph and higher. thought it might of been a couple things. i replaced the fuel filter, plugs, wires, battery, and ignition coil. still it keeps doing this? i can drive intown just fine. it smokes so i think i need new valve seals but that cant be making it bog like it does, or would it? im at a complete loss at this point. its a stock 2.0 carb. i also cut the belt to the a/c cause i thought the bearings in the ac maybe going bad. something else that just started a couple of weeks ago. the oil light will flicker between 40+? no clue why? it has oil. the coolant is full and has been full for sometime. does anyone know whats going on with my truck? cause today i was going to work and it started doing the bogging and i could barely keep it at 35 this just as i turn off a back road onto the highway and semis are getting mad. oh sometimes it will do it enough that it kills itself.

[pennyman1]

Check the vacuum lines especially the ones in the box on the drivers side inner fender; the hoses rot or get eaten by rodents and cause a big vacuum leak - my 88 2.6 had that happen to me, so I know from experience.

[dazednconfused]

thanks ill do that this weekend

[dazednconfused]

i sprayed the lines with carb cleaner. i didnt notice anything. although i sprayed one area and it seemed to idle smoother. i figured it just warmed up?? not real sure. could it possibly be the carb?

[dazednconfused]

also a coworker was behind me the other night while it was acting up.he said it smelled like fuel real bad. any ideas?

[dazednconfused]

i found this in the archives. this is whats happening to mine.

http://www.mightyram50.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=73&t=1298

only thing is i replaced the fuel filter with a mr gasket see through..

[pennyman1]

Where you sprayed it and it ran smoother is where the vacuum leak is. Also be sure the carb/ throttle body and intake are tight. Make sure the egr valve is functioning properly and is not jammed open with carbon.

[dazednconfused]

keep my fingers crossed and hope thats it.

[dazednconfused]

ok i replaced the three on the fire wall, but now its worse.will do egr this weekend. i really need to invest in a tasklight so i can work on it at night.

[scguy]

Hate to break it to ya, but my truck was doing the same thing. The cause? Timing belt slipped three teeth even though it was only 6000 miles old.
the fix - new timing belt, balance shaft belt, and both tensioner pulleys.

RD

[dazednconfused]

well i also replaced the hose from the box to the egr over the week. took the egr off and cleaned it. the bottom orifice was caked will carbin. seemed like it ran smoother but it still did what it always does.http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=1030&d=1310796260


how would i be able to get the timing set back to the way its supposed to be after getting the parts?

[dazednconfused]

ok i been thinkin. how could it be the timing? it runs just fine until i try to drive faster than 50. wouldnt the timing affect how it drives intown also not just high speeds. any other ideas guys?

[DroppedMitsu]

Maybe your tank is really dirty/rusty inside. Or if you still have the stock carb it might just be going out, its very common. Check the timing anyways to make sure it is timed correctly. Also I would do a compression test make sure you're getting good even readings. Maybe cap/rotor/distributor, check for cracks, wear, traces of water/condensation inside.

[dazednconfused]

as soon as i can get a compression tester ill do that.
i noticed that there is a moisture residue just outside the num1 plug.

[camoit]

Does the truck have the 3 tube can thing between the carb and the fuel pump? The line comes from the fuel pump to it. then one line goes to the carb, the other goes back to the tank. It's to stop vapor from going to the carb. You might want to try and bypass it. It's also possible that the float is sticking or has some junk in the needle and seat.

[dazednconfused]

well im gonna go and get a rebuild kit and float for now. gotta move so that will have to hold off for now. cant afford weber yet. tax time hopefully.

[dazednconfused]

truck still having problems. drove fine for awhile. hadnt done anything to it yet. but now its acting up again. so i replaced the fuel filter today to see if that might be it. im beginning the wonder if its something in the tank. it didnt start messing up again until the other week when i ran it out of gas.

[dazednconfused]

im trying to change the fuel pump on my 2.. what is the easiest way of do this. feeling like its a two man job. one loosen from top and lower down to underneath to mess with the fuel lines.

[camoit]

Have you pulled the tank down yet? It might have a leaf or part of a shop rag in there. It might be getting sucked into the fuel pipe. Now that you say that it is happening again, after running out of fuel.

[dazednconfused]

no havent pull the tank yet. im havin a hard time with the fuel pump right now.

[DroppedMitsu]

What are you having trouble with? Changing the fuel pump is pretty easy, there's only a few bolts.

[camoit]

Turn the engine over by hand tell it falls out or comes loose. You are probably on the cam lobe in the stroke position. It makes for a hard time otherwise. You are fighting the spring tension during the stroke phase.

[dazednconfused]

that lil thing fell out. i had heck of a time makin sure i got it back in the right hole. other than that it i didnt have to mess with turning the motor. it was positioned to where the lil rod was all the way in. i made sure it wouldnt be seized in also. the hardest part was getting the bolts started do to the lack of room. now i just have to put a lil gas in and plug the tires due to same screws i picked up at work apparently one of the last times i drove it.

[dazednconfused]

i just saw in blindeyeds build thread that the coolant temp sensor messing with how the truck runs. if the fuel pump swap dont do the trick then im going to try the coolant sensor.

[DroppedMitsu]

That is mainly only the EFI vehicles that the engine coolant temp sensor messes with how the truck runs, on the carbed truck is doesnt do much.

[dazednconfused]

Well thats good to know. thanks for the heads up.

Good news i started it up today and drove it to work today. it ran smoother and started up easier.

[dazednconfused]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6zs-ZPw9bJs&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

[dazednconfused]

What are you having trouble with? Changing the fuel pump is pretty easy, there's only a few bolts.

just the tight space is all. then when i was putting the bolts back i had a hard time getting one of the bolts to start threading in.

[dazednconfused]

that was a short lived bit of excitement. the next day i went to go to work and it wouldnt start. for some the battery went dead. i even tried jumping it with another car and it wouldnt even crank over.
i discovered this mysterious yellow wire that isnt connected to anything. does anyone have a clue of where or what this wire goes to? it was just dangling down when i found it.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=1931&d=1323166155
if you know could you reply with a photo of where it goes?

[DroppedMitsu]

I think thats the gauge oil pressure switch wire/dummy light wire. Should go below the alt to a sensor on the oil filter housing