G54b Help

[Kronustor]

Long story short I just bought the truck and had to send the head in for a sparkplug removal and resurface. I found out the head had 2 cracks and the crankshafts journals were scored beyond repair. Now to my main question.

If the crankshaft journals are scored should I be worried about the ones on the block? Can i just get a head at the junk yard and get back into running shape? I have the day off tomorrow and want to know if i should bring back the head only or maybe the whole motor. I have read many of the posts before joining so i trust the expertise of the people at this forum. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[geezer101]

Hi kronustor, welcome to mightyram. Most decent head recon shops can handle welding up a crack or 2 unless they are just too far gone. Always tricky with getting stuff from a wrecking yard. You won't know what a head will be like until you separate it from a block. If you can get the cam to turn over with the rocker cover off, check to see if there are any issues with the rockers or valves. Your block will be safe as the only component in the bottom end that spins is the crank. Word of caution - make sure you replace the balance shaft bearings too. If the bottom end bearings have lunched themselves, small fragments of bearing material will have found their way through all the oil galleries (check the condition of the balance shafts when you pull them out) Don't take short cuts with putting it back together! You could get away with a replacement crank and a clean head but make sure the block is thoroughly cleaned and replace all the bearings, timing chains and guides. Good luck! :thumbup:

[Kronustor]

These head is gone beyond repair. It has a sparkplug stuck in it with a broken easy out(completely my fault), it has 2 cracks, and the journals are deeply scored. From what ive read the scoring is what sealed the casket on this head. I found a head at the wrecking yard, after pulling 4 off, the head was clean, no coolant had gotten past the gasket, but it looked like the motor was burning a lot of oil. Im guessing the motor needed new rings but all i needed was the head. I think i should be set with the new head.

My main worry now is the block and the crankshaft bearings. So what i am understanding is that i should check the crankshafts bearings, if their good then i should just replace the balance shaft bearings and continue? If theyre bad all i need is new balance shaft and cranshaft bearings righ, no machining needed?

Thanks for the help, i will post how the work is advancing and how everything ends up. Maybe this will help someone one day.

[geezer101]

If you need to have the crank either replaced or machined back up, you are going to need new main and big end (conrod) bearings. It should have the block prepped and new pistons/rings but if it had "o.k." compression you could re-use the ones you have to get it back on the road. It depends on what you want out of the engine...

[Kronustor]

I finally got the head installed and the truck turns on but runs really bad. The motor shakes a lot and has a really bad valve tick. I was told to adjust the carburetor mixture but the chiltons book really confuses me as to what screw i should move. My neighbor told me the mixture screw was behind a plug that my carb had and it turned out that the plug wasn't part of the carburetor and that there was something missing where that hole was. when i unplug the hole the truck won't stay on without giving it gas.

I've also been looking at the distributor. When I put the cables next to ground they all spark really quickly except for the wire on the number 2 cylinder. I don't know if it needs a new cap and rotor or a new distributor. Anyways any help from you guys would be great. I need this thing running by the 15 cause school is about to start. Things really frustrating the hell out of me.

[ragragtimetime]

assuming the timing is correct/close & wires not crossed: check for defective spark plug, defective coil wire or coil, vacuum advance leak or mechanism issue, fuel pump worn, leak in fuel line/fittings, restricted fuel filter/pinched feed line....pull the new plugs & see if they give any clues.

[Kronustor]

The timing was just done since the head was just put on. I'm going to get new sparkplugs and see if it changes anything. How would i check for leaks in vacuum advance?

[Kronustor]

I've been doing some digging around and finally found some stuff on the carburetor.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/815-Rough-Idling-and-dies-when-weather-gets-cold
In the first picture where it says mixture adjustment screw, my carb has a whole but no screw in sight. How do i go about replacing the screw?

[camoit]

They put a little cap in the hole so you can't see the screw.

[Kronustor]

I took the cap off but there's no screw. Ive poked in there with a flat head and a philips and found nothing. If I leave the plug the truck will idle but badly, uns pretty bad too. If I take the plug off it will turn on if I pump the gas but will turn off as soon as I let off. I went to the wrecking yard and the only carburetor I found was on a g53b(I think it was g63 not sure). It was the 2.0 motor. I was going to take it but it was also missing the screw and I didnt know if it would work on the 2.6.

[camoit]

Thats strange. I have never seen one that is missing the idle mix screw. You are at the base of the carb?

http://mightyram50.net/camoit/picts/88_vac_system.gif

[Kronustor]

I can't tell where it is on the diagram.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=2052&d=1325961806
The hole I'm referring to has the 3 hoses in a triangle next to it.

[camoit]

Yep there should be a plug covering the adjusting screw in there.
Also in the manual section > over 216 manuals> Montero it covers your truck. It will show you how to remove the plug and where it is.

[Kronustor]

I took off the carb today and now im 100 percent sure there is no screw. I could see the taper from where the plug was. I cleaned up the carb and ordered a screw it should be here in 2 days.
Also,
How do I add pictures to my replies?

[geezer101]

^It's in the FAQ's but it's not that hard to add pics. You need either an online media storage account or you can use a direct link from your PC. Look at the small tool bar above the reply box and you'll see a thumbnail of what looks like a tree and click on that. A prompt box will pop up asking you to choose a source to download your image file and select the one you want to use, then add the link to the image. Done deal!

[Kronustor]

So the order got screwed up and my screw didn't show up. I decided to check the engine timing and it was set to 10 degrees atdc, under the hood it says it should be at 5 degrees btdc. When I did that the truck wouldn't turn on and it would blow smoke from the carb when turning it over. Any suggestions on this?
Thank you for all the help.

[geezer101]

You might have the dreaded 'twilight zone' distributor issue. How much advance/retard have you got left to play with? If it's fully advanced/retarded and it just coughs you will need to try this out - set the engine for TDC then remove the distributor and turn the shaft 180 degrees so the rotor button is now pointing at #4 lead out on the cap. Now alter the firing order by swapping the leads so #4 is now firing #1, then swap all the other spark plug leads accordingly. You should end up with the distributor in such a way that you have even amounts of advance and retard adjustment. I ran into this once and it took me 3 hours to solve this riddle after exhausting the text book method and testing everything on the engine that could cause a misfire fault... I have posted this before but I couldn't find the original post.

[camoit]

You need to re-check all of the timing. From the cam to the distributer. Somthing is off. Also on the missing needle adjuster there should be a spring that goes around the out side of it. That keeps it from turning and fallowing out.
Oh and to add a picture http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/89-How-To-Pictures-and-Attachments-Tips-and-tricks

[Kronustor]

This truck is going to fight me every step of the way. I checked the timing, set the engine to tdc with the timing cover off and the camshaft had both valves closed so i assumed that was correct. Also the screw i ordered didn't fit it was too big.
I did get my hands on a distributor and when i swapped it out it stopped firing thru the carb. I set the engine to 5 degress BTDC, according to the sticker under my hood. Ill mess with this a little more until i get even play when i move the distributor.
Does anybody know where i can order the screw from? If anything will the carb from a 2.0 work on my 2.6?
Lastly does anybody know if a 32/36 dfav weber from a vw will fit? There's one available nearby for 50 dollars needs a rebuild and probably the adapters to fit the truck.

[camoit]

I think the carb from the 2.0 will work. There identical as far as I can see.
As for the Weber you need the adapter plates that come in the kit.
We should have a thread on Weber in the performance section. It's a sticky.

[geezer101]

The carby from the G63B is the same design but the jetting will not be adequate for the 4G54 (I've messed with the all alloy Mikuni/Solex carby and the only differences I could spot were the air bleed screw, main jet and the inner venturi for the secondary). You can however, pinch the air/fuel mixture needle from it and put it to use in your carby. Camoit is right about there being a spring seated under the adjust screw.

[pennyman1]

the carbs also flow different cfms based on engine size, and whether the motor is manual or auto. The 32/36 carbs are the same, just the way the throttle rotates and which end the cable attaches are different - I have had both on Geronimo

[Kronustor]

I finally got lucky at the junk yard and found a carb, the little metal plate hadn't even been taken off yet. The threads on mine were crossed so it was no good anymore.
I finally put the junkyard carb on the the truck and its up and running the only problem I have now is that messing with the mixture screw doesn't really change how the engine is running. On the also when accelerating at a certain point it just stops and won't go anymore. I rechecked my timing, just in case, and playing the degrees btc and moving the mixture screw a little I can get to run well except for first gear where it will still stop accelarating. Any ideas? I'm going to try looks for more solutions and If not I'm probably going to bite the bullet and have a mechanic look at it. Hopefully it finally gets going without any problems so I can get it painted. Thanks for the help guys.

[royster]

I'm thinking a junk yard carb probably has some gunkus~funkus from sitting, and perhaps some SeaFoam in the fuel will help disolve it. That's just my 2 cents: I have absolutely NO experience with the carbs on these things, so wait for the next expert for REAL answers :D

[BradMph]

With all them hoses connected up to these darn things, be sure your all correctly plugged. Roy's idea sounds like a good start and it's cheaper then a mechanic. Install new plugs and check your mixture setup on them after a few runs. Could help with a lean or rich setup. The stock carbs are so cluttered up with smog BS, it's hard to tell what's what. 1st gear isn't much of a gear and depending on your driving habits, you may have to make changes around that issue. Every carb seems to act a little different in each truck, it may just be the characteristics of that wrecking yard carb. A good cleaning might help push through whatever the wrecking yard accumulated on it.

[geezer101]

If the engine is running out of steam by the time it gets into mid range rpm, I'd first check the secondary vacuum actuator. The diaphragms in them are prone to splitting whether they are driven every day or left sitting for 5 years. Easy to test if it's working (with the engine off) - simply disconnect the small elbow hose running into the top of the vac actuator, fit a long hose onto it, open the carb to wide open throttle and suck on the other end of the hose (at this point the secondary should open right up). If it won't hold vacuum, it's toast.

[royster]

Be absolutely sure to check the fuel filter, if you haven't already. Take it off and back-flush it, see what kind of particulate might be in there. If it's full of rust, definitely replace it. If it looks old, it likely is.

[Kronustor]

Wheres the fuel filter located? I think it might be something with an air hose but a clean fuel filter can always help.
I drove it to schopl today and with the black hose disconnected for the fuel filter it doesn't do it at much.
It stops accelarating and with a little gas it continues. I also noticed a really loud valve tick. And when I opened it in the weekend I saw that it didn't have jet valves but it doesn't have screws to adjust the valves. Maybe thats also part of the problem.

[royster]

The fuel filter should be under the driver's door, on the frame. It will be on the driveshaft side, not the outside, so you have to look underneith.

[BradMph]

If the engine is running out of steam by the time it gets into mid range rpm, I'd first check the secondary vacuum actuator. The diaphragms in them are prone to splitting whether they are driven every day or left sitting for 5 years. Easy to test if it's working (with the engine off) - simply disconnect the small elbow hose running into the top of the vac actuator, fit a long hose onto it, open the carb to wide open throttle and suck on the other end of the hose (at this point the secondary should open right up). If it won't hold vacuum, it's toast.

Example, lol

11165


Isn't fuel filter located close to gas cap area under the bed of the truck on the frame?

[royster]

I bet if Kronuster traces the line from the fuel tank to the engine, he'd likely FIND the fuel filter, Brad. I'm not sure where it is on the G54B, but on my 89 2.0 it's between the fuel tank and driver side door, tucked up on the frame.

I think.

It is on my 90 4G64.

Oh i hate confusion. It's so disorienting.

[BradMph]

Yep that's the spot! :)

[Kronustor]

Turns put that valve tick wasn't a valve tick, i'm officially SOL with this thing. Mechanic told me it had a spun bearing and i would need a new motor. After all the time spent trying to find a head, which i payed 200 for, and the wrecking yard only offered me 300. I guess ill just cut my losses and junk it.

[royster]

You might want to do a bit more research first...maybe get a second opinion.

[Kronustor]

From what i've read the mechanic is probably right. It makes a weird noise in the number 2 cylinder, but it goes away when i remove the spark plug. I thought it was detonating so i checked the timing and it was wrong the dot on the camshaft was on the left side of head instead of the right, it was 180 degrees off. Turned the truck on and the noise was low but still audible as soon as i gave it gas it came back. I'm going to take off the oil pan in the weekend and check the bearing. I'm also looking for a cheap block too. But im running out of options i need a car to find work and this is the only vehicle i own.

[BradMph]

Wrist pin? When plug is pulled there is no more pressure to make the piston rattle as it bumps over TDC

[4cylinders]

wrong mechanic, rebuild it yourself 90% of the time you can just replace the bearings, all of them. the weak spot on these engines is the chain driving the oil pump. also be sure to prime the oil filter when changing the oil. do it yourself, they won't,

[Kronustor]

I took it to another mechanic and he wants to make sure the head is not cracked so he asked me to take the head off so he could take a look at it. He's older so he doesn't do does types of jobs anymore but he said he would help me if i did all the heavy lifting work. He did a compression test and the numbers were 160, 150, 160, 160 for cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4 in their respective order. That number 2 cylinder has the lowest compression and is the one that is making the weird noise.

With the head and oil pan off how can i check if it's the wrist pin or the bearing? And can i really just change all the bearings? This is the last effort into getting this thing running if it doesn't get fixed ill try to sell it for parts or just junk it and move on. Thanks for all the help.

[4cylinders]

with the head and pan off, pull the #2 piston and rod.
they're a lot easier to inspect out of the engine.
you should be able to find the problem.

[BradMph]

That compression looks good too. Not bad at all and in the range of still being decent. But there are also oil rings too, not sure if your burning oil, but that would be another subject not mentioned. The flat tappet heads are noisy things naturally. I'd follow 4 cylinders advise and check it out to be sure. His suggestion wouldn't take long at all.

[Kronustor]

well this engine is dead to me i've officially maxed out my capabilities as a diy'er. i haven't checked the rest of the bearings but i imagine that they have some
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[geezer101]

Don't throw in the towel just yet. Dropping in some new bearings is still within the abilities of mere mortals - yes you'll need to check the crank but it'll be worth it when it's all back together and running. This is what I found inside my G63B along with a twisted crank...
http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i351/geezer1011/L200%20Express/L200Express232_zps589e2367.jpg

[Kronustor]

The crank has one deep scratch on the piston i checked. I i change bearings wouldn't they just go out again?
Mr. Geezer how did you fix your g63? New cam and new bearings?
I'll check the rest of the pistons on thursday to see how the rest of the crank looks like.

[geezer101]

It will depend on who handles your crank. Most of the time it's easier to source another crank and in all honesty I should've held out to do the same, but the shop I took my engine into were competent enough to repair the crank. The bearings don't fail due to the surrounding block but have failed from a combination of wear and/or an oiling failure under normal circumstances. I am in agreeance with BradMph - your compression is more than acceptable and mechanical flat tappet heads on G63B engines (as with any adjustable flat tappet type OHC head) are noisy if not adjusted up. p.s. I haven't assembled my engine yet as I'm holding out on locating decent rockers and rails for my head :shakehead:

[royster]

It will depend on who handles your crank.

Were you expecting me to NOT comment about such a remark? The potential is unlimited, first-wife jokes notwithstanding.

[geezer101]

...Thanks for that Mr Lugwrench. Ermagherd :doh: