Electric fan, fuel pump switches

[Rickdees]

My First thread anywhere in a very long time....
In the past weeks I installed new aluminum radiator. I'm not going to use the probe type switch the you push through the radiator. (The reason) Over time they work lose a start rubbing and damaging the coolant tubes. Besides, My main fact is it's a new radiator and the probe is mile too short. This switch will go into the intake manifold at the coolant return. I'm setting it up using a N/O (normally open) switches. (one prong) The one I'm using is a 175 degree so at 175 the fan will come, also using a over ride toggle switch that will allow full time fan, if needed. Both the switch and toggle are grounds to the relay (ONLY).
Some knucklehead had the wiring to the fan all screwed up from the first install on the old radiator.

I'm going to set up the new rotary fuel pump the same, the main reason for this switch is to kill the fuel in case the engine dies, or a accident, no oil pressure, no fuel. This is recommended, to keep you and your friends safe from a gasoline fire.
Attached is the wirng diagram

[turbomax]

This also makes a great theft preventive measure. No fuel, no start. My fuel pump is wired the same way, except for indicator light.

[blindeyed]

Moved your thread to the Stereo and Electronics forum, since it had more to do with wiring, and would have better exposure there.

Great info though, thanks for sharing!

[Rickdees]

Thank you Jason, I'm gald you can do such things to keep the order, dam newbies.

It figures, The guy at Autozone gave me the wrong part. He gave me a temp sensor for a gauge.
They'll glady sell you something you can't use. I could get so pissed at parts people, 99% of them don't think outside the box. If you can't give them a part # they can't help you.

Great help! I found this web site that gives the specifications of ALL switches!
http://www.wellsve.com/custom_searches/ds_fans.php?switch=sw&submit=Submit

I sure miss my parts guy, this kid was DAM SHARP and amazing . He knew his parts, he'd bend over backward to find the part that would work for me.

[Acuta73]

Nice simple setup, I like it! May do that with my fuel pump after all.

I feel you on parts. I get tired of hearing: "BUT what vehicle is it FOR??". They just can't wrap their brain around the fact that parts don't HAVE to go on the vehicle it was made for...

Been working on the guy at Napa down the street, he's slowly starting to catch on.

[Rickdees]

I feel you on parts. I get tired of hearing: "BUT what vehicle is it FOR??"

Been working on the guy at Napa down the street, he's slowly starting to catch on.
EXACTLY!
I ran here today and told my story to O'Reilly's, Knechts, AutoZone, including Baxter’s. You'd think Baxter’s would have some knowledgeable guys, All I wanted them to tell me is if it was a N/O switch? lol
Which Napa store are you using old 82nd?

The switch I took back to Autozone did not ground out the relay. I also thought that I might have screwed up on the wiring, , the switch had to bad from the get go. I’ve searched the internet in between the running around accomplishing nothing good today , other than church.
I’ve had an old sensor off the truck which is ( 1 prong, it grounds itself) for the stock temp gauge, And I had a Chevy temp sensor ( 2 prong, one prong grounded) which both will ground the relay and turn the fan on and off.
Only problem is that they slowly ground out causing the relay to buzz for few seconds (only) on the start up.
(Of course, heating it with a heat gun to warm it, we all know an engine doesn’t heat up that fast.)
Personally, I don’t think that is good for a relay that is just contacts, would you agree?

I found this to add,
Just run the sender wire to your relay coil ground..As the temp rises, the resistance at the sender declines provides ground to the fan relay, closes it, and the fan turns on.
Almost All fan relays control circuits are wired to ground, as senders are referenced to ground.
http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/need-some-kind-oem-temperature-sender-my-electric-fan-80632.html

By the way, there are a few different ways to wire relays from what I have found so far.
Post up, I’ve always welcomed any comments.

[Rickdees]

Sweet, What a pain in the arse. The temp switch I used is a TS -158 the fan comes on at 200+ or - 10 degrees and turns off at 185. The new radiator took about 20 minutes to even reach 200. Just go in and request to look at the their book with all switches and you'll find your huckleberry. I have no clue what this is for? (The over ride toggle fan switch holds me at about 160 and I think that is just wonderful).
This has nothing to do with this thread, But I'll tell you anyway. I had to warranty the front tire and it took them over a month to get a new one back to me.......Don't ask, Rick is not happy with the shop I bought them from. (a while back I took off the 45 series tires on front and replaced them with 35's and made a HUGE difference in handling
~ON A SIDE NOTE~
Watch out you young fellers with those cheap ass Hayden poke through radiator switches, I didn't even use mine and found out it didn't even work.
They are cheap I wouldn't take that chance. I would advise you to add the over ride switch with the indicator light as a safety precaution, This way you know for sure you won't over heat.

[Acuta73]

82nd Drive store by DEQ in Clackamas. Parts guy is Matt. At least he's always willing to just dig around for something rather than stare blankly at me! lol

The younger girl in there isn't too bad, either. At least she "gets it" even if she isn't yet as knowledgeable.

I have the cheap poke-in right now. After I get my gauges re-worked in a month or 3, I'll go to a screw-in sender and the relay setup.

[pennyman1]

To really make your truck safe, add a oil pressure safety switch to control the relay instead of a toggle. I used a oil pressure safety switch from a 70's GM car, a vega/monza, that has 3 terminals, common, NO and NC. Common goes to the relay, NO goes to the Battery, and NC goes to the black wire on the starter to pull in the solenoid. NC will power the relay in the start position, and the NO side powers the relay when oil pressure is above 10 PSI. I have run this setup since 1983, and the only problem I had was the seal in the sensor failing after 15+ years and shooting oil out the sensor lugs - it was still running, but it caused a James Bond smoke screen effect behind me. For added anti theft capability, add a switch inline on the wire to the pump; use 8 gauge wire from the relay to the pump to prevent voltage drop from the long distance from the battery to the pump. I did a write up on this and it is in the archives. You will need an adaptor for the sensor as it is 1/8 NPT and the block is metric.

[pennyman1]

Here is a link to a oil pressure switch that will work, although the price is high: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-OIL-PRESSURE-SWITCH-DODGE-B250-CAR-PART-AUTO-/140532202106?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ADodge%7CModel%3AD50&hash=item20b85f3a7a. The switch I used is a Standard Ignition Part Number: PS148 oil pressure switch with light.

[Rickdees]

Nope, I wouldn't add a toggle to the fuel either. Only the indicator light, us being human we do things we a not aware of like leaving head lights on.
The toggle is only for the fan
Good info Pennyman1

[derek6790]

Hey everyone, im trying to swap my mechanical pump for an electric fuel pump and want to know how the flow
scematics looks basically. Will i will need a return line on the fuel line at the carb? How do i wire to make it so the pump is powered by the ignition and not battery? im sure the filter goes before the pump near the tank. however will it be safe to put a regulator before the carb without blowing out the pump. Please walk me through this.

[mopar_ja]

When useing the fuel pump saftey switch, can I use this as the oil pressure sending unit as well. Or do I have to run separate saftey switch and sending unit.

[camoit]

My rule of thumb is to have them separate. Just in case one fails you don't loose the hole system. But that is just me. I should draw up how my fuel system is set up. It will blow your mind. You can start the truck but it will only run tell the float bole is empty. To start the truck and keep it running you must first turn on the ignition SW then press and hold the fuel prime button tell it's up to pressure and the the engine is running. Then the gage keeps it running. If the pressure drops below or above the adjustable set point then the relay opens and the fuel stops. But if the gage fails then I can bypass it completely and just force it to pump fuel. It takes 5 relays for the hole system to run and not have the warning system activate when I just leave on the gages to check maximum recall points. Only the fuel gage can shut down the engine and trigger a warning, the others just set off warning lights and buzzers. It just kind of took on a life of it's own. But it has passed all the bench testing.

[Medevack1]

Hey all im new here and i was reading this particular post, im having some trouble with my D50 and i think it might be the fuel pump thanks for the Info!!!

[Rickdees]

My rule of thumb is to have them separate. Just in case one fails you don't loose the hole system. But that is just me. I should draw up how my fuel system is set up. It will blow your mind. You can start the truck but it will only run tell the float bole is empty. To start the truck and keep it running you must first turn on the ignition SW then press and hold the fuel prime button tell it's up to pressure and the the engine is running. Then the gage keeps it running. If the pressure drops below or above the adjustable set point then the relay opens and the fuel stops. But if the gage fails then I can bypass it completely and just force it to pump fuel. It takes 5 relays for the hole system to run and not have the warning system activate when I just leave on the gages to check maximum recall points. Only the fuel gage can shut down the engine and trigger a warning, the others just set off warning lights and buzzers. It just kind of took on a life of it's own. But it has passed all the bench testing.

Camoit, I Sure would like to know how to do this. I'm starting all over! I can't take the spaghetti crap anymore.
I got totally lost looking at it, Help!

[Rickdees]

I hope I'm going in the right direction on this? I'm doing a separate 60 amp service jumping of the starter/battery cable(less 10 gauge wire to run) for the air compressor, fuel pump and fans. The million dollar question is we only have so many ignition switch hot wires to kick the relays in, how many do I really need?
I'm going to run a fuse box to boot for each separate power supply.
This isn't all the relays I have, it's the only ones you see. This bolts up underneath the dash behind the glove box where the air conditioning use to be.

[Rickdees]

The million dollar question is we only have so many ignition switch hot wires to kick the relays in, how many do I really need?

Answer, run one ignition switch hot wire to a "main" relay #86, then run from the "main" #30 to the other relays #86.

[Rickdees]

Ignore post 17 and 18. I went this way with a 60 amp breaker 60 and 30 amp relays and then fuses to double down.

[camoit]

That came out nice and clean looking. You should get some shrink tubing and shrink it over the solder less connectors. Just in case you drop somthing back there it won't burn the truck down.

[Rickdees]

Thank you. That's kind of like what my one son said, but he started with Harbor freight. I'll get a small fire extinguisher too.