Alignment Issue

[blindeyed]

Been having a problem with the truck recently eating up tires. About 6 months or so ago I got a set of 4 new tires. Recently I noticed the outer shoulder of the tires were getting worn down a bit and the truck drove like it was on ice skates going down a wet road (dry wasn't so bad). There was a certain spot you had to have the wheel in to stay straight, other wise it would pull left or right really pretty bad.

So I did a tire rotation myself, and went to get another alignment. The tires that were on the rear still almost looked brand new, I would say about 85-90% tread left. After the new alignment, it rode good again.. until recently. Less than 2 weeks after my last alignment, my tires that were on the rear in good shape now look like this:

Passenger:
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc213/blindxeyed/Truck/IMG_1495b.jpg

Driver:
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc213/blindxeyed/Truck/IMG_1494b.jpg

It looks like my camber is way out on the positive side causing my truck to ride on the outer walls of the tire. The inner tread is what the whole tire looked like less than 2 weeks ago.

I'm getting a "new" set of rims tomorrow with some tires on them (not sure what condition they're in). So I'll be swapping these rims/tires out for them and then heading straight back up to the tire shop to get new tires (if I end up needing them) and another alignment. I've heard of people having a hard time keeping these trucks aligned properly, so I'm wondering if anyone else has been having this issue as well, and/or if anyone has a diagnosis or fix for this problem.

[camoit]

One Side Wear
When an inner or outer rib wears faster than than the rest of the tire, the need for wheel alignment is indicated. There is excessive camber in the front suspension, causing the wheel to lean too much to the inside or outside and putting too much load on one side of the tire. The car may simply need the wheels aligned, but misalignment could be due to sagging springs, worn ball joints, or worn control arm bushings. Because load has a great affect on alignment, be sure the car is loaded the way it's normally driven when you have the wheels aligned; this is particularly important with independent rear suspension cars.

[Rickdees]

I have some tires just like that out back.
You can get alignment every week and tire after tire. The very first thing you need to look at is the bushings, the lower control bushing gets hammered over the years and deteriorates. Even if you pry on the lower control arm with a pry bar it feels tight.
Mine looked and felt good, but when I took it a part the middle of the bushing was gone. It's a two piece bushing that tapers down in the middle.
You can have it aligned, but it does nothing for you when the front wheels begin to toe out when driving, the faster the harder the pull (It’s just a natural reaction of all front ends.) In your case the lower control arm moves toward the center.
I say rebuild or at least replace ALL the bushings, then get a alignment, and in six months post a picture of how much tread is left on your tires.
If not, That tire guy that sold you those tires knows you'll be back again soon and he'll act like your his friend.

What Cam said is very true

[blindeyed]

Great info! Thanks! I've got time to kill in the morning, so I guess I'll run around and grab some parts for the fix. I knew the suspension was about worn out, it squeaks pretty bad going over bumps and such. Was just hoping to get around to that later rather than sooner.

When you say replace all bushings, any chance you can narrow that down for me. Looking at the autozone website and there's tons of stuff as far as suspension items go. They have a bushing they state is for the control arm, but it doesn't state whether it's for the upper or lower. Are they the same?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Duralast-Control-Arm-Bushing-Front/1995-Mitsubishi-Mighty-Max-2WD/_/N-j1x7lZ8oy1l?counter=0&itemIdentifier=89638_0_5285_

Will probably replace the ball joints too while I'm at it. Does the upper ball joint have to be pressed in, or can it be unbolted and swapped out like the lower one?

[camoit]

put a jack under the lower A arm then lift it. Then you can take a pry bar and lift on the tire and look for movement. This will unload the spindle from the ball joints. I think there press in.

[Acuta73]

These are the UCA and LCA bushings for a first gen 86' 4x4. I'm guessing yours should at least be similar.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s69/Ssrogg/Truck%20Mods/001-6.jpg

Upper row is the "bushing" (rod assembly) for the UCA and the press-in upper ball joint.

Lower row is front and rear LCA bushings and the tie rod end I grabbed by accident (didn't notice til now...lol).

Might not be a bad idea to replace your wheel bearings beings you're breaking the hub, anyway (cheap insurance). Also look at your swaybar bushings just for GP before you drop $$ on another alignment. Took 2 weeks to get the rod assemblys for the UCA, they had to come from the manufacturer directly (and I'm convinced he ordered the RWD version). Figure $2-300 for the parts+grease.

You'll need to buy, beg, borrow, rent, or steal a ball joint press and a pickle fork for the uppers.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-ball-joint-u-joint-c-frame-press-service-kit-38335.html

[pennyman1]

lca bushings in urethane are about $20 for both sides from energy suspension; the upper control arm shafts are 30 - 60 a side. Also get the strut rod bushings in urethane, they are about 20 for the set of 4 to control caster. Just had my front end apart on my 1980 - the urethane bushings have been on the front end for 19 years and are still perfect; just had to repack the lca bushings cause the grease got real stiff.