Is the distributor for the 89 Ram50 and the 87 Chrysler Raider the same?

[Bearcat]

I have an 89 Dodge Ram50 2.6 for a build I am doing.
I want to use a much simpler aftermarket wiring harness.
To do this I have to chuck the computer and all the sending units.
I need to find a way to upgrade my present distributor.
Pertronix says that they have a unit that will fit the 1987 2.6 Raider but they don't have a listing for mine.
Engine is a G54B and distributor is T3T65476.
Will this work? Is there a better way?

[geezer101]

To go neanderthal tech on a 4G54 you will need to find a points distributor from an earlier 4G52 engine. It 'should' be a direct swap and will be easy enough to rig up.

[Bearcat]

So to be clear. Neanderthal is the way I think I need to go. If I change the distributor out and use points and condenser it will function? Is the 1987 Chrysler Raider distributor such an item? Once done can it then be upgraded to the magnetic breakerless unit that Pertronix supplies?
Thanks for the info.
I am making a replica of a 1914 Stutz Bearcat and there is very little electronics that will be required for such a car.

[pennyman1]

I don't understand why you would want to swap the electronic ignition on the 2.6 distrib for a pertronixs unit unless it was dead. The module for the igniton is attached to the distributor and is self contained. All the electronics on the 89 ram 50 is for the computer controlled carb on the motor - replace the carb with a weber carb and you will have the minimalist engine you want. there are several threads on here on the proper way to install a weber carb and delete the factory control boxes - I don't want to see you create problems when there are none. We also would like to see this transformation - we want pics!!!

[geezer101]

Yeah, the stand alone EI distributors on carbied mitsu engines are easy to install. It's a set and forget deal. Now, I am one of those guys who will mess around with a Mitsubishi points distributor and dial in my own dwell settings to get it just right, but it takes patience and practice. It's something you can't do using feeler gauges and going by the book - you have to use a dwell meter and dial it in by feel. That being said, good luck with finding a points distributor - they are pretty rare now...

[Bearcat]

Thanks! That might be the piece of info I need.
I am pretty much electronics/car computer illiterate. So, I am pretty much going off of what others are telling me. The original Stutz engine produce about 70 HP and weighed about 1500 lbs. The standard G54B is around 90 hp (I think) and weighed much less so it will do the job without putting gofast bits on it. The engine just needs to function.
I have no trouble doing the steel work. To get the final layout of the frame I need to attach the rear springs. The fenders and cowling will be easy. When I have something assembled I will be sure to post a few pictures.
Thanks again

[pennyman1]

the G54B is good for 105 - 108 HP in stock trim and 135+ ft - lbs of torque. It is more than up to the task of moving your Stutz.

[geezer101]

We gotta see this thing during your build process Bearcat! :))

[noahwins]

A Mitsubishi powered Stutz Bearcat, eh? Daisy mowed down some roadkill in one of those in the Great Gatsby.

Be sure to drive it with your goggles and a seersucker suit.

Oh and TTIWWOP

[BradMph]

lmao Noah, did you just see that movie lately? you have a great memory of it.


I like to see that car for sure...