4" Drop block question

[DropThatHammer]

Hello guy's, i'm new here. Just picked up a 2.0 liter 88 mighty max from a friend. I've done some research but can't really find my answer.

Question is, to the guys running 4" dropping blocks where did you find them? I can't seem to find any. Belltech makes a 3" block buts thats all I can find. So you guy's running 4", are you combining two 2" blocks per side? I'm aware of buying tapered (angled) blocks but if I don't is that really bad on the drivetrain? Thanks in advanced!
-Jimmy

Any pictures of your guy's trucks with 4" blocks is also appreciated :)

[thehive]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-lowering-blocks-rear-axle-u-bolts-drop-kit-1998-older-import-trucks-aluminum-/121467434928?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMighty+Max&hash=item1c4805f7b0&vxp=mtr

[bobsnewdirection]

Could do 2in blocks and pull helper leaf. Helper leaf gives 2in drop

[maxdsm]

4 inch drop blocks ? I don't see how you would be able to drop the front 4" unless you want that rake look maybe drop springs and drop spindle s would work?.Also not to thread Jack but if you drop your truck will it still be able to haul/tow Things with out riding like crap?

[bobsnewdirection]

Drop spindles and cut or drop springs will get it that low. They are stock 2in higher in rear. 4in in rear isn't to bad for load, I'm down 6in rear and can only load it it so much. Air shocks are my next thing, then load shouldn't be an issue

[thehive]

you can get that low in the front and not have to cut anything, just think outside the box......like waaaayyyyyyyy outside the box...i'll let you know how it goes here reallllll soon.
http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r568/thehive201/Mobile%20Uploads/hal-gmp1350-1_w_zpsb733b73f.jpg (http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/thehive201/media/Mobile%20Uploads/hal-gmp1350-1_w_zpsb733b73f.jpg.html)

[Merrill]

I looked into QA1's before. Not sure they will work, and didn't want to buy them on a hunch. The shocks are the same, but the spring perches are different. The GM spring perches sit where the shock bolt hole is, but the MM shock hole sits higher. In short, it may not drop the truck at all unless you slice off the QA1 spring. I could be wrong, but I think the diameters are different too (which may be no big deal).

The only problem I have had with a loaded drop in the rear was my drive shaft hitting the tunnel. I have a 1 piece drive shaft. The other issue is getting it so low that the U-bolts will snag and get busted off on stuff I the road, bumps, rocks, whatever. The hangers also are subject to scraping a lot. All depends on the tire size with that size block.

Drop springs (or cut springs) with spindles will drop the front very low to match the rear.

[thehive]

depends which model of QA1's you buy. i gave up on looking at them by car manufacturer and just went strait to QA1 and got a list of what they make in shock lengths and spring pounds. you can pretty much make anything you want from them. like i said i'll let everyone know how it goes

[BradMph]

:threadjacked:



Hello guy's, i'm new here. Just picked up a 2.0 liter 88 mighty max from a friend. I've done some research but can't really find my answer.

Question is, to the guys running 4" dropping blocks where did you find them? I can't seem to find any. Belltech makes a 3" block buts thats all I can find. So you guy's running 4", are you combining two 2" blocks per side? I'm aware of buying tapered (angled) blocks but if I don't is that really bad on the drivetrain? Thanks in advanced!
-Jimmy

Any pictures of your guy's trucks with 4" blocks is also appreciated :)


4 inch drop is an awful lot of drop and block size. I wouldn't double up the blocks either. Your going to loose a ton of wheel travel and the suspension will be stiffer then what my ass could take. If your not bagging the truck, the truck is going to be very low and anything on the road is going to be scraped up like stuck gum under a table. If your going to go to the cheap route with 4 inch blocks and cut springs or some other kind of snake oil, you may not be happy with it's ride.
My 1st gen is at it's limit with being lowered a conventional way with 2inch blocks and a cut loop off springs. I also have some very stiff KYB's that do a good job keeping bump shock from over pushing the wheel up into fender. In addition to maintaining the tire diameter at a stock size so I didn't have to mess with speedo re-gearing. I would go with a 2 inch and see what you think. If you want lower, you can always add the 3 or 4 inch. Belltech is expensive too, I'm not a big fan of their stuff either.
Here is a 2 inch drop on a '86

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=8595&d=1394941879

[Rahtid]

here a picture of my 90 mm with a 2.5 drop spring in the front and the angled 4 inch block in the rear
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/41/imagejpeg23tx.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/15imagejpeg23txj)
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/839/hv8b.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nbhv8bj) with the 18 inch wheels

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/208/tileloaded.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/5stileloadedj)
with 14 inch wheel and over 1000lbs of tile in the back

http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/861/gopr0251.jpg (https://imageshack.com/i/nxgopr0251j) 14 inch in the front and a 15 inch rim with a drag slick in the back

[thehive]

thank you!!

[DropThatHammer]

Thanks for all the input EVERYONE! You guys are awesome!

Ride quality isn't too important to me. After all of the information posted above, I'm going to try removing the middle leaf spring paired with a 2" (maybe 3") angled block in the rear and lowering springs in the front. Thanks for all the feedback and advice!

Also plan on pairing my drop with 16" wheels and would eventually like to get it as low as possible without bagging. I'm on stock wheels right now so I will try lowering springs and drop blocks for the time being.

[DroppedMitsu]

I would go with a 3" and removed leaf, that will get you 4" maybe a little more.

[Merrill]

There is a 3 inch block, all leafs in, 16 inch wheel, 205/50 tire. Lots of stuff would scrape, and the drive shaft would hit the tunnel if I was loaded, or saw a big enough bump.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=8512&d=1394338713

This is the same drop, but different rear axle (makes it lower), 17's, and (I think) 215/45 tires. The axle swap changed the angle of my drive shaft so it doesn't smack the tunnel anymore.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=10661&d=1405274047

Both pics have the exact same front drop and rear block. Pic 2 is actually lower in the rear by 1/4". The first pic looks the lowest because the wheels and tires are smaller bringing the truck closer to the ground.

[thehive]

forgive me but i don't see why everyone wants to pull a leaf, wouldn't this make it ride like shit and be bouncy as hell?

[bobsnewdirection]

Merril- that's odd that the drive shaft hits on yours, I had 3in blocks with leaf pulled and I never hit, now have 3in blocks and 3in drop springs and drive shaft still never hit. Worst I've got is rear hit my bed last week moving a snowblower. What would make the difference?

[BradMph]

I didn't pull any leafs from mine and I would not want to either. The weight of the trucks bed is plenty to keep it settled down. You need those leafs to be able to use the truck as a truck if you needed to. Those help to keep that spongy feel from the suspension and help keep the bed from sagging when hauling anything in the back. The rear of the truck on mine never has any issues with bottoming out at all and as long as the tires fit into wells you should never have a problem with tire cutting. I have hauled some big weight in my truck bed and never had a bottom out. The concern is up front since travel is limited and the weight from engine can make a return bounce off a bump spank the stops. I maintained a 1/2 size bump stop, but if your brave, you can cut the stops off and place them a little lower on the frame, but place some rubber on them so you are not just slapping metal plates together.
Drop spindles are best I think to lower the front, as well you won't stress the drive shaft U-joints to go past their available angles and you can maintain much of the travel the front needs. But the ground never changes and is always going to be there waiting to remind you. Lowering your truck is going to cause things to change that you just have to get use to. You will get use to it and how to drive in certain conditions,(bumpy). Trucks are not made to be lowered, lol.

[Rahtid]

Same thing with my 4 inch blocks only the rear ends hits the bed, when it loaded

[Merrill]

I have a 3 inch, one piece drive shaft. Anyone with a 2 piece will not see that problem. With the rear drop, the angle of the drive shaft was almost level, so when loaded down, a hard enough bump would cause the drive shaft to smack when the truck was loaded.

I removed the bump stops completely and used bolts to secure the strut rod to the control arm. The shocks will bottom out before the control arm even comes close to the spring bucket on the frame. They've never made contact. If I was to shock drop the fronts, the arms would probably smack the frame on a hard enough bump. Drop spindles are the way to go because the geometry does not get thrown out of wack. Only problem is the wheel/tire sits higher, and the suspension has the same amount of travel. That can often mean the tires may rub the fenders if the bump is serious enough.

[DroppedMitsu]

I have had tapered 4 inch blocks and removed middle leaf(on a few diff mitsu trucks) and would only hit the driveshaft on super big bumps/potholes, not sure why everyone else has problems. And my tuck rode pretty damn smooth with that setup and belltech shocks and cut bump stops. Up front def get drop spindles as they keep the suspension geometry correct while also lowering.

[DropThatHammer]

There is a 3 inch block, all leafs in, 16 inch wheel, 205/50 tire. Lots of stuff would scrape, and the drive shaft would hit the tunnel if I was loaded, or saw a big enough bump.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=8512&d=1394338713

This is the same drop, but different rear axle (makes it lower), 17's, and (I think) 215/45 tires. The axle swap changed the angle of my drive shaft so it doesn't smack the tunnel anymore.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=10661&d=1405274047

Both pics have the exact same front drop and rear block. Pic 2 is actually lower in the rear by 1/4". The first pic looks the lowest because the wheels and tires are smaller bringing the truck closer to the ground.
Thanks for the feedback and pictures! Pictures are awesome.


I didn't pull any leafs from mine and I would not want to either. The weight of the trucks bed is plenty to keep it settled down. You need those leafs to be able to use the truck as a truck if you needed to. Those help to keep that spongy feel from the suspension and help keep the bed from sagging when hauling anything in the back. The rear of the truck on mine never has any issues with bottoming out at all and as long as the tires fit into wells you should never have a problem with tire cutting. I have hauled some big weight in my truck bed and never had a bottom out. The concern is up front since travel is limited and the weight from engine can make a return bounce off a bump spank the stops. I maintained a 1/2 size bump stop, but if your brave, you can cut the stops off and place them a little lower on the frame, but place some rubber on them so you are not just slapping metal plates together.
Drop spindles are best I think to lower the front, as well you won't stress the drive shaft U-joints to go past their available angles and you can maintain much of the travel the front needs. But the ground never changes and is always going to be there waiting to remind you. Lowering your truck is going to cause things to change that you just have to get use to. You will get use to it and how to drive in certain conditions,(bumpy). Trucks are not made to be lowered, lol.

Lowered vehicles are nothing new to me. I've always been about function though. This is the first time I really don't care about function. I love the way mini trucks look with a nice drop and wheels, ride quality is no issue for me but at the same time I don't want to damage my driveshaft and keep some suspension geometry in check while doing so. I don't plan on hauling, and if I do it won't be heavier than a floor jack and stands or basic tool set. I have plenty of experience with hitting speed bumps side ways, planning my route in or out of a parking lot, etc. lol. I have some expeirence with suspension and suspension geometry though. I used to road race and daily my Evo IX before it was stolen (4 weeks ago). I had nice coil overs, nice light Enkei wheels and sticky 265 tires with rolled fenders and proper alignment and corner balanced. I've always been about mechanical grip and learning how to make cars faster around corner. But with this truck, I just want it low slow and somewhat driveable. Thanks for all of your input, advice and experiences. I'm new with this chassis and i'm new with a leaf spring suspension.

[pennyman1]

you could change it to coilovers with some work...

[noahwins]

Coilovers so you can play around with height and damper, or if you don't care about functionality or hauling stuff, just skip the intermediate steps and bag it. The sweet stanced, cambered out look while its parked, a smooth ride while driving with no bottoming out, uness you want to scrape.