Headlight/taillight on/off switch burned out(?)

[gordiray]

Low beams died, then high beams next day,last week,
on 82 Ram 50.


Taillights and instrument lights are working. I have three, all 82, but two have not driven for at least a decade.
In San Diego. Visit to Ecology showed only one , a month ago, from which I was lucky to get a needed transmission control arm. No other corpses seen, a big change from decades past.

Removed dashboard mounted lightswitch, after wasting $$ on two new sealed beam headlights, which did not light up.

Switch seems to be MB141222. Would MB113405 work, or could I adapt something from the 1986/87 through about 1994 second body version of that truck? None seen at wreckers that day.

Can those switches be fixed? Or, is there any aftermarket replacement or kit? If all else fails, could make a three switch, one potentiometer ( or something more modern) circuit board to mount to the left of my left knee.


Want to avoid cannibalizing the other two 82s., though one probably has warped head, as well as rust. Other had loud tick (valves?) when shut off and pushed to driveway about ten years ago.
All are 2.6L automatics, ex-Navy.



Where can one get taillight lenses for the 79 to 86?

[ragragtimetime]

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/3531-1st-gen-tail-lens-lampassembly

[ragragtimetime]

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/4250-1st-gen-dash


DIMMER SWITCH INCLUDED

[BradMph]

MB217938 old number
New number MB604118 in case you can't locate your part numbers, try google this one or rock auto possibly. The switches are basically the same.


12779

[pennyman1]

there are several on ebay right now as well.

[MightyB]

Anyone have a wiring diagram? My switch broke with parking lights on. I'd like to wire in a switch to get by for now if possible. Thanks.

[gordiray]

The public library has the manuals for several years. No plans for a visit there this weekend, but remind me, if still needed.
My trucks are all 1982, for which the 1979 through 1986 are most similar. I transplanted one AC Delco dashboard light switch, and the no headlights problem is still there. Both donor and what it replaced are marked 650-OD1N, Part number 840538, AC Delco. "No longer available", was told via O'Reilly Auto Parts. Delco or O'Reilly Line DEL. Item, C6214A.

I intend to do some electrical testing, and bought a test light and a DMM from Harbor Freight, but it has been raining.

Since it seems that that switch (es) is not the problem, I guess that it might be the column switch. I have recalled that I replaced the column s
witch about 12 years ago. It seems that the Dodge Colt from some years also used the same column switch, so that might help in a junkyard search. I am not optimistic about finding an unused OEM replacement.

[lush90]

Obvious question, but are the two fuses responsible for the high and low beams good?

[gordiray]

Low beams out now, as well as highs. Fuses AOK. Probably , the column switch, as it was in 2004 or so, when I last replaced it.

Noted in the library that later models, (? 84 -86?) have relays following the column switch. Did Mitsubishi decide that the currents in the column switch were causing failures, so they added the relays to handle the currents, using the column switch as just a controller with small currents as controllers of the relays?

Has anyone here rigged up a headlight control independent of the column switch, with or without relays ?


Incidentally, I found that I do not need the high beams, though if I were out of the city, or using highs to signal passing, they would be useful.

Can do another transplant from the non-driven 82, but would like to find a better solution, in case I ever drive it again.

[pennyman1]

Are you sure the fuse block is good? The metal tabs that hold the fuses will lose tension and the lights will quit. Also check the fuses with a voltmeter for continuity. If the fuses are a little loose, they can start to vibrate ultrasonically and the solder will melt and the fuse will be open, but will look fine.

[gordiray]

Thank you for the suggestion. The fuses looked good when my troubles started again. They still look good. Meanwhile , the low beams re-appeared, but vanished in a few hours. So, ff. your post, I struck the fuse box with my hand, and voila! , low beams on again.

Have repeated this technique a few times since. High beams are still dead.

Have been busy with other things, but will soon do some probing to do a better fix . Thanks again.

[gordiray]

Fuses had good continuity with a V-O-M. Removed the fuse block, probed with test light, no V on high beam side of fuse mount. Used the column switch several times. Decided to live with just low beams, so replaced low and high beam fuses ( 15 Amp), and remounted the fuse block and the co-mounted ESS relay. Voila! Now have high beams and low beams!. ??????

May be I moved some intermittent break in the wire bundles during the above R&R?

Hope that at least the low beams remain. Further , deeper probing , is not a welcome prospect.

FF Pennyman 1 post about vibration:

The thought occurs to use some vibration absorbing rubber, or PE foam (?) sheet or washers between the fuse block and the body just to the left of my knee. Has such been seen , perhaps in later models?. But the fuses which were replaced showed zero resistance on the VOM.

Oh, Pennyman1, I forgot to check blade tension on the fuse holder, as darkness approached, but the fuses mounted in a normal way.
I see no consistent explanation for the above experience.

[pennyman1]

best way to fix it permanently is to replace the fuseblock. 33 year old blocks are sure to fail again. I replaced Geronimo's with one that uses blade fuses, and added circuits for power windows, seats, 3 amps, and other items.

[gordiray]

Now I have consistent high beams, and intermittent lows "fixed " with hand raps. Is there a simple way to fix the existing fuse block, such as 3M 5200 adhesive-sealant on the block for some crack (?). Or some conductive adhesive someplace? Without cutting the wire bundle?

Replacement with an original appears to be lots of junkyard searching, with uncertain outcome. The fix you used looks like lots of wire cutting and the addition of bulky male-female mates in the bundle which feeds the fusebox. That location is not a comfortable working site. Remove the seat for better access?

[pennyman1]

The fuse block I used has the terminals that crimp onto the wire directly, then insert into the block. Taking the seat out does improve access. To me it is not a hard job, but I have been doing electronics for over 40 years, so your judgement of the difficulty will vary.

[mikewarme]

How about instead of all that mickey mousing you check your headlight/taillight relay? It is the square relay located on the fender well behind the battery . Take it apart and try cleaning contacts. If not email me I'll share one of my new or used ones as these are not avail aftermarket. The switches almost never wear out.

[gordiray]

My 1982 2.6 liter automatic almost certainly does not have such a relay. It is night how. There is no such relay shown on the electrical schematic. As I recall, from reading the factory manuals for later years, at the library ( those surviving after a !@#$%!&*^! tore a nice color-coded one out ), relays for the headlights appeared first in 1984. Maybe 1983.

I have been free of light problems for several months now. My last handslap on the fuse box must have been a masterstroke.

[mikewarme]

I have trucks from 81-85 and all have the lamp relay mounted on inner fender next to battery. This will commonly cause trouble with tail lights not working and switching between high and low beam. For further info for anyone looking for a dash headlight pull switch found in d50 trucks 79-82 Part number MB141222, you can text me as I have a few. 818 2683012

Mike