Parts Source for1980 D-50??

[Kerrigan]

I'm trying to locate some parts for the brake system on the 1980 D-50 Sports, like the proportioning valve, and a vacuum booster rebuild kit, same for the master cylinder ... and I'm striking out using the MB parts numbers from the 1980 Parts Catalog. Anybody know of a source? Thanks!

[mitchi]

Rockauto.com.....perhaps.

[noahwins]

car-part.com

Mike Warme hoardes 1st gen NOS parts and ragragtimetime has a lot of parts, too.

[Kerrigan]

If anyone has a new or rebuilt brake proportioning valve (not the 4WD load leveler) for the 1980 D-50 2.6L Sports, I'd be happy to take it off your hands! Mitzi is in need of one. It's the one in the rear brake line mounted up on the frame by the gas tank. Thanks!

[Kerrigan]

13016

Is this actually the proportioning valve for the 1980 D-50 2.6L Sports?

[ragragtimetime]

yes if you are referring to 4wd....that is Part #MB277112, MB277850 (superceded) & is it a 4wd 3-line input load sensing proportioning valve with spring which fits all 4-wd 1st & 2nd gen. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/4338-load-sensing-proportioning-valve-amp-spring

you are after rearWD 2-line input check valve MB316678 http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=4573503&ukey_assembly=587162 (sorry i don't have 1)

[Kerrigan]

The truck is a 1980 D-40 Sports which was converted into a 4WD. So, as it is no longer a 2WD, would this part work ... the one for the 4WD? It has a very heavy front bumper/brush guard setup with a winch in it, so a lot more weight on the front than a 2WD. That's why I have a 6 degree camber ... lol!



yes if you are referring to 4wd....that is Part #MB277112, MB277850 (superceded) & is it a 4wd 3-line input load sensing proportioning valve with spring which fits all 4-wd 1st & 2nd gen. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/4338-load-sensing-proportioning-valve-amp-spring

you are after rearWD 2-line input check valve MB316678 http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=4573503&ukey_assembly=587162 (sorry i don't have 1)

[BradMph]

The truck is a 1980 D-40 Sports which was converted into a 4WD. So, as it is no longer a 2WD, would this part work ... the one for the 4WD? It has a very heavy front bumper/brush guard setup with a winch in it, so a lot more weight on the front than a 2WD. That's why I have a 6 degree camber ... lol!

D-40? I think you meant D50

[Kerrigan]

Right D-50. My bad fingers lol!

When I get a look at it, if it appears to be the same kind of valve, would it be safe to assume the ones which look the same are the same internally and would work on the 4WD conversion from 2WD?

[ragragtimetime]

no...for example:

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-3501

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-3279

[Kerrigan]

Okay... I've searched all over the Internet and Rock Auto, Autozone, etc. and cannot find a rebuilt or replacement proportioning valve for the 1980 D-50 2WD Sports. Mine is apparently hosed, little application of front brakes, rear applies until lock-up to stop. New master cylinder installed, multiple bleeding of system (almost a gallon of brake fluid used in multiple flushings, etc. until it bled clean and clear with no air.)

Apparently the valve above, which is available, won't work?

So what can I do now to get this truck back on the road with good brakes?

She really needs help!

Thank you.

[Fordubishi]

This would work too. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderProd.aspx?itemno=260-12627

Go to Brake system here on page 14
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/49-First-Gen-D-50-factory-manual-PDF

[Kerrigan]

Okay, let's try another approach. Anyone have a working proportioning valve off a '79-80 D-50 2WD they are willing to part? Also wondering if I can get more pedal by replacing the disk brake pads with new ones which are thicker than what's left?

[BradMph]

of course you can get more pedal. Be sure to remove the brake reservoir cap when you doit. And put a rag around the reservoir, because when you push the piston back to home it will try to overflow your brake fluid. Have you tried lifting the back of the truck up and spinning the back wheels to see if you can hear the shoes scuffing on the drums. If not, grab a screwdriver and pull the rubber grommet out of the inside of the brake housing and give the brakes a final adjustment. This should bring pedal up also. How far does the E brake come up? 3-4 clicks? more?

I have formed a habit of giving my brakes one pump before stopping at lights. It should firm the pedal and raise it when you do this if your not happy with the height of the pedal. Also you could get a longer brake pushrod and replace the one that's in the truck. Could give a little more peddle too.

[pennyman1]

You could get a manual adjustable proportioning valve from wilwood or others and put it in place of the check valve or get a residual check valve like they use on street rods like others have suggested. If you go the manual proportioning valve route, be sure it is placed with a cover to prevent the knob from being inadvertently turned after it is set.

[Rickdees]

Mike Warme hoardes 1st gen NOS parts

Mike says, don't ask if I have, tell me what you want.

I run an adjustable proportioning valve... and works fantastic. but then I have 4 wheel 11" disc brakes.
Most likely if you do find a used one you'll find yourself in the same boat you jumped from. Nowhere.

[Kerrigan]

E-brake comes up about half-way now and before it pulled all the way up with it barely holding on a hill.

The front pads have over 50,000 on them.


of course you can get more pedal. Be sure to remove the brake reservoir cap when you doit. And put a rag around the reservoir, because when you push the piston back to home it will try to overflow your brake fluid. Have you tried lifting the back of the truck up and spinning the back wheels to see if you can hear the shoes scuffing on the drums. If not, grab a screwdriver and pull the rubber grommet out of the inside of the brake housing and give the brakes a final adjustment. This should bring pedal up also. How far does the E brake come up? 3-4 clicks? more?

I have formed a habit of giving my brakes one pump before stopping at lights. It should firm the pedal and raise it when you do this if your not happy with the height of the pedal. Also you could get a longer brake pushrod and replace the one that's in the truck. Could give a little more peddle too.

[ragragtimetime]

new brakes all around for the 1983 4wd...best deal for front was amazon: Centric Parts 102.01950 102 Series Semi Metallic Standard Brake Pad $17.79 delivered. part # is 4-wd so it may not be helpful...best $ ever spent

[BradMph]

Mike says, don't ask if I have, tell me what you want.

I run an adjustable proportioning valve... and works fantastic. but then I have 4 wheel 11" disc brakes.
Most likely if you do find a used one you'll find yourself in the same boat you jumped from. Nowhere.


Rick, Those 11's are the same size used on Locomotives to stop a mile long train. :lmao: and yes I am jealous! :P


Mike's Prices are in the overpriced bracket, though they are OEM.
You can buy OEM stuff here also and it won't take 3 months to get a return email.
http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com


Kerrigan: That E-Brake can tell you if the rear brake shoes are close to the drums or not. They should just be touching the drums a little and not causing a bunch of restriction. My E-brake also only comes up about 3-4 clicks.
The self adjusters should be working correctly and if I'm not mistaken you can force a self adjust by rolling backwards and pulling the E-brake several times to force the adjuster to push rear shoes out. I think this is how they can be forced, not positive though. I usually get under truck and use the ole screw driver and spin the wheel until I'm satisfied. After that the self adjusters do it from there.

[Kerrigan]

Checked the Mitsui warehouse link from above and no parts for as far back as 1980 ...

[thehive]

nope, as far back as that site goes is 1985. last year of the first gen, but they have your parts i'm sure.

[Kerrigan]

The don't have the proportioning valve for the 1980 ... darn.


nope, as far back as that site goes is 1985. last year of the first gen, but they have your parts i'm sure.

[BradMph]

Last year of the 1st Gen is 1986 to clarify. Kerrigan Your going to have to think out of the box in your quest for parts, ok.

The 1st Gen trucks ran for just over 7 years from 1979 to 1986, they also ran as Plymouth Arrow Pickups, Dodge D50, Mitsubishi Mighty Max, Dodge Ram50. This is besides the Forte truck as well which was shipped to foreign countries. But, anyway what I am saying is these trucks are all the same body and nothing changed for these 7+ years except for name plates, paint, some interior items, and smog BS under the hood. Very little was changed during this 7+ years and probably was the most boring assembly line job to have during that time. Mitsubishi made them all, bottom line and produced them for many years. Your stopping point with our 1st gens is 1987. This was the year the body changed and it became the 2nd gen of Mitsubishi Trucks. American company Dodge continued with the trucks as Ram50's as well. With the 2nd gen trucks, things reversed in a sort of way. The bodies and interior changed, but the engines were all basically the same. Quite a funny trick Mitsubishi played on the consumer I have to say. But, when you have something good you stick with it, right. So as I am saying, the 2nd gen engines have pretty much the same thing as Mitsubishi trucks have had since 1979. A 2.0, 2.6, 4 speed in older trucks, 5 speed came later and some also had Automatics. But, it's all a family of the same stuff to say it bluntly.
So, in your quest for parts and what not...stop sealing yourself up in the 1980's when searching. If it wasn't for the registration saying your truck was a 1980, you could pass it off to an unknowing person as a 1986 1st gen very easily. Thank god for registrations, huh?
Now broaden your searches when you look all the way to 1986, that is the cutoff for the 1st gen body style parts. For engine parts, you probably could go almost to 1996 with discretion on the choice of parts your after. I personally have a 1st gen MM truck, 1986 with the old D50 4 headlight system, D50 Center Console dash, a 4x4 speedometer display set and the engine is parts from a 2nd gen MM all shoved into a 1st gen block.
Now to throw in another factor about parts locating, Mitsubishi didn't just make our trucks. They created many kinds of cars and 4x4's and vehicles. Well, many of these parts will easily replace the same parts on our trucks, or vans, or 4x4's or even a friggin forklift if that's what you choose to drive to work each morning. This is also why when you go to a wrecking yard for parts, if you didn't find your part...you probably didn't look that hard then. Heck they even put Mitsubishi Engines in airplanes during the war. One of the most dependable engine of that time.
Anyway, I have over done this reply by 4 paragraphs, but you should have a better idea about our POS trucks we own. Though they are not better then any other truck out there, but they are better because we own one, lol. :)

I won't go on about the modified items that replace ours, but there are virtually millions of things to replace our tired old POS trucks. Listen to the forum members with suggestions and follow up on them. They will always help you with questions you may have to install the parts. We are not the kind that says go do this and then sit back and watch you squobble as you try to install it. Though we do have some squobbly looking guys here and I hear if you look at them in the face you'll turn to stone instantly. :lmao:

[ragragtimetime]

& to obfuscate its also the 1st year of the 2nd gen

[thehive]

http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com/parts/1985/Mitsubishi/Mighty%20Max/Base?siteid=214581&vehicleid=97294&section=BRAKES&group=HYDRAULIC%20SYSTEM&subgroup=HYDRAULIC%20SYSTEM&component=PRESSURE%20METERING%20VALVE

is this not the proportioning valve?

[Kerrigan]

What I found for the part number was in the factory parts book and it was MB 044842
This one will work with the 2WD brake system?
MB316678 - PRESSURE METERING VALVE
Pick-Up

That would be great! But different part number?


http://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com/parts/1985/Mitsubishi/Mighty%20Max/Base?siteid=214581&vehicleid=97294§ion=BRAKES&group=HYDRAULIC%20SYSTEM&subgroup=HYDRAULIC%20SYSTEM&component=PRESSURE%20METERING%20VALVE

is this not the proportioning valve?

[pennyman1]

to further complicate and confuse - in 86 there were both 1st and 2nd gen models made - to 2/86 1st gen, 3/86 on 2nd gen. And 1st gen 86 trucks have some specific parts that were 86 only, like gas tank sending unit, but the tank is the same as 79 - 86. Part numbers change all the time for Mitsu parts - I have seen 6 different part numbers for the same part many times at the dealer.

[BradMph]

My search found that part number as this. Your going to have to get your feet wet sometime. It can always be sent back also.
13037

[Kerrigan]

I've exhausted all possible sources I've found for trying to order a brake proportioning valve for the D-50. Does anyone have one which works for sale? Or do you know where to get one for sure? I'm getting tired of ordering them, making the payment, and then getting an email that they don't have it and will refund my charge someday.

[camoit]

Try Capitol Clutch & Brake in West Sacramento

[Kerrigan]

They have a non-adjustable (which is good) one which has one line in and one line out for rear brakes, but one line in and two lines out for front disks. The original appears to have one line in and one line out.

Don't know how that would work out.

Are the original ones rebuildable in any way?


Try Capitol Clutch & Brake in West Sacramento

[BradMph]

could you put a plug in one outlet that is not being used?


Check out this article on a 1980 brakes issue. Maybe give you some ideas.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1311-1980-plymouth-arrow-rescue/

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[Kerrigan]

Good info int he article; thank you!


could you put a plug in one outlet that is not being used?


Check out this article on a 1980 brakes issue. Maybe give you some ideas.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1311-1980-plymouth-arrow-rescue/

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