4D55t in 86 ranger injection pump adjustments

[bellavesus]

Hello all,
I had the pump rebuilt after the motor was rebuilt but ran flat out due to rusty internals from having sat with bio fuel in the south for two years. Now when attempting to start it does not want to idle. In my ford service manual it has a section 25 that is "optional" and can be purchased additional -and of course that is where the injection pump adjustments are located. Any one help with info on procedure to set pump correctly ? If pump is loosened on motor, which way to adjust to increase timing- my guess is pull away from motor? This may not be necessary as maybe the pump rebuilders did not set an idle screw correctly? Sorry for the long winded post here but working on this for a friend and it is her primary vehicle- and she is borrowing mine until its fixed so let the games begin!

[noahwins]

Ah yes, "experimental" fuels! :front:

I don't know about the Ford manual, but get the procedure straight from Mamma Mitsubishi. Scroll down for the zip file for diesel engines. There are hundreds of factory manuals available for free on this site.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/811-Over-216-Manuals

[bellavesus]

Thanks for the link, I appreciate the heads up!
She only used pump bio, but pump rebuilders apparently hate the stuff- if its been sitting, it just kills 'em.

[pennyman1]

the lack of sulphur causes increased wear, and the tendency for water in the fuel is higher.

[mikewarme]

Forget the bio fuel in any kind of distributor injection pump. Your governor is stuck and pump has to be rebuilt again I'm afraid. Not worth the BS to use bio fuel as it really messes things up.

[bellavesus]

Pump has been rebuilt and installed. Looks like it is injector time now, she smokes and does not want to idle when cold.

[huff]

I can't understand what you mean by: "ran flat out due to rusty internals"

By flat-out, do you mean the engine only runs at max rpm?

[bellavesus]

Yes, the RPM's were high as could be without redlining and throttle had no effect. Just roared to life and stayed roaring! Pump has been rebuilt now and acts normal, which is to say you can accelerate and idle. I think the injectors probably need cleaning, I have not had the time to pull them and pop test them however. It also needs new glow plugs, and a brake booster.

[huff]

Yes, the RPM's were high as could be without redlining and throttle had no effect. Just roared to life and stayed roaring! Pump has been rebuilt now and acts normal, which is to say you can accelerate and idle. I think the injectors probably need cleaning, I have not had the time to pull them and pop test them however. It also needs new glow plugs, and a brake booster.

I'm going to space out my questions and assumptions, because it feels like you are just dumping all sorts of information about your story into one big jumble, and I feel confused.

OK, so your pump was sitting for a long time with biofuel in it.
After several years of sitting you tried to start it.
It started, and the RPMs jumped up to near-redline, and the throttle had no effect.
You had the pump rebuilt.
Questions:
Did you have a reputable place overhaul the pump?
Or did you just have someone take it apart, clean it, and put it back together?
Did they use new parts in the rebuild?
Did they set the starwheel/smoke screw/diaphragm (aka boost compensation adjustments) back to the factory settings?
Have you messed around with the starwheel/smoke screw/diaphragm?

Now that it has been rebuilt, you can accelerate and you can idle.
But you also say it doesn't want to idle.
I'm guessing that maybe it idles, but is uneven and eventually dies.
Questions:
Does it idle unevenly?
Does it eventually die if left to idle?
Is the idle speed OK / What is the idle speed?
Have you tried increasing the idle speed?

You mentioned having bad glow plugs. This might be a factor, at least until the engine has warmed up.
Question:
Does the vehicle still have trouble idling after it has warmed up?

You mentioned wanting to know which way to turn the pump in order to change the timing.
If you are standing in front of the truck, facing/looking at the truck, then turning the pump counter clockwise will advance the timing. Turning the pump clockwise will retard the timing.
Questions:
Have you set the timing using the procedure in the manual?
Do you have the tools (dial gauge, dial gauge adapter) to do so?



BTW: I just saw this article, which looks to be very helpful, especially in explaining the boost compensation controls:
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/f7/40732d1358950119-noisy-vibrating-tickover-200tdi-tuning_land_rover_tdi_engines_rev_2.pdf
Also, you should read this:
http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm

[bellavesus]

Thank you for your interest, sorry if my previous posts were confusing. I try to be brief so as not to overload anyone with a post.
The pump was rebuilt by a reputable company that only does diesel injection service. They used new parts, except for one that they could not find but reassembled and tested and came out within specs is what I was told by service department rep. I have done no tweaking of pump before or after rebuilding, hopefully they set the idle star back where it was from the factory. The vehicle will idle fine once it is warm, it is just the initial start up that it wants to stall out. I have a dial gauge but no other special tool to mount. It appears that the Ford specific fuel filter bracket and assembly is in the way as well and would have to be removed in order to use the dial. I was contemplating adjusting the idle speed on the pump, but have not done so. When I turned the pump manually clockwise and CC, it did not affect the cold idle speed so I tightened the pump in the middle. Again, thank you for your interest!

[huff]

I think maybe replace the glowplugs before doing anything else.

Next, now that you have new glowplugs, do you know if your glowplug controller works ok?

If you think or know it might not work right, then you might want to add a switch to trigger the (low temp) glowplug solenoid.

Do you know much about the glowplug circuitry on these trucks?

If not, here is a quick synopsis:

The glowplugs for these trucks are supposed to run off about 6V.
If they get a full 12V for more than a few seconds, then they will burn out.

On the other hand, it takes "too long" for them to heat up when given 6V. ("too long" = about 10 seconds)

In order to reduce the amount of time it takes to heat the glowplugs, the system gives the glowplugs a full 12V for a couple seconds, and then switches over to a lower power setting (about 6V).

To do this, there are two relays. The high power relay connects the glowplugs straight to the 12V line.
The lower power relay connects the glowplugs to a 'dropping resistor' to the 12V line.
When the dropping resistor has a resistance equal to the 4 glowplugs in parallel.
This means that when it is in the circuit with the glowplugs, that the glowplugs get about 6V.
(BTW: it also means that if one of the glowplugs burns out, the remaining glowplugs are going to get hotter. If you only have 1 working glowplug, it is going to see 9.6V, which I guess might cause it to burn out if you leave it on too long.)

The dropping resistor (on my truck) looks like an aluminum box, about the size of a bar of soap, or a deck of cards. Or maybe a chalkboard eraser.

You might want to add a switch (preferably a momentary-switch) to turn on the relay for the low-power glowplug circuit.
Keep the switch turned on until the truck warms up.

Hope this helps.

[bellavesus]

All of those tips are greatly appreciated! I am on the hunt for a set of glow plugs. Maybe i can get by with a new used set? I have been working multiple projects as of late, but it would feel great to get this lil beast back on the road.