The Fordubishi

[Fordubishi]

I picked up this truck 17 years ago for $150 figuring I could rebuild the engine and have a parts truck for my shop.The rebuild was stupid money at the time so as a joke I grabbed an 85 302 out of a T-bird that was totaled. Got the thing on the road and had a blast kicking "ricers" butts with it. Then 11 years ago I was hit by a drunk driver who merged into my lane taking out the passenger front end (I wasn't hurt at all just PISSED)
A few months later I found a rust free 83 cab and bought it for $39.99 from a local junk yard.Well next thing you know the frame is stripped, air ride put in, 4 link, 7.5" 3.45posi (Ranger axle) gas tank relocated,full mandrel bent 2.5" duel exhaust,AOD with 2400 stall and a stage 2 shift kit,modified BBK Mustang headers, and 5 lug front conversion. there the truck sat for a few years.
Then I was lucky and found a set of 66 289 4v HO heads and its engine upgrade time.Put in a new cam (Ford A312) windage tray,anti-pump up lifters,roller rockers and a few things to let the engine run to 8000 rpm.Again the truck sat for a few more years
in the last 6months I have been working on it again and with luck will be on the street again in 3-4 months
Photobucket.com/fordubishi you can check out all the work so far to date. I update it every few days with new pic's

Original build
1191
New Cab and engine mods
1190
New duel exhaust
1189

[camoit]

Oh,,Ya,, I can see another front page 5 star build thread coming.

[joey_crandall]

i like interior work.

[crvtec90]

Thats good stuff man!

[l.k.]

nice. .....i would be on the front page...but too lazy and besides i dont like attention..its just a truck......anyways .keep us posted on this long term project, It is reall cool to see something with a lot of time and work come to the end and be on the road again. GOOD LUCK

[l.k.]

Oh and 1 more thing...that is a pretty cool name you got for your truck.project

[mikeslowmax]

Nice truck ive got a few questions for you. What motor mounts are you using. Why didnt you use a dual hump pan? Last one with a ranger rear end, which drive shaft are you useing and did you have to mod it any. Thanks


-Mike

[parrell456]

Wow, I think I saved about 15 of those pics for my "awesome mini trucks" folder... The assembled frame with motor reminds me of a hardcore R/C chassis with those bright colours and white wheels. I love it! Very inspirational!

-RHP

[Fordubishi]

:) thanks guys. to answer a few questions here goes.........

the engine mounts are stock replacement 79-83 Fox body, the frame mounts are made from 3"x1/2" flat bar welder to the factory engine mount location.

1204

The oil pan is a 60's- late 70's front sump so it clears everything with no mod's needed

1205

The drive shaft is a 1 piece 2.5" diameter thick wall tube with Mustang U-joints and flanges

1206

yeah the name was of course a play on words as the whole drive line is Ford and the body being a Mitsubishi we started calling it either the POS or the Fordubishi as a joke and the name stuck.

if you have any other questions I'll answer what I can ;)

[Fordubishi]

Couple of pic's of the cab back on the frame after 5 years WOOOOOOTTTTTTTTTT!!!!!!!!!! as of 10 minutes ago

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1229

[Fordubishi]

A few more pic's of the cab mounted :))

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1231

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[camoit]

I hope this site has inspired you to get back on this project. Your build is gaining viewers and new fans every day. It's looks like you are going to have a nice truck once she is done. Keep us updated. Everybody loves explanations of how you over come the problems.

[Fordubishi]

It sure is nice to see other nut cases like me doing odd ball trucks. Everybody and their dog has built a SBC S-10, Windsor powered Ranger or a Toyota powered by everything and anything as any idiot can order all the parts online and bolt it together.Now don't get me wrong I don't mind them but I would rather see weird stuff the the owner had to take time to "build" the truck then going to "Bob's bolt on goodies.com" and just order everything they need.

[pennyman1]

If you are like me, who has owned the same truck since new, a deep appreciation of the work it takes and the imagination and creativity to make it happen is what makes our trucks special. Since there is so little for these 1st gen trucks, every thing has to be modded to fit. Keep up the great work - someday we got to find a common central meeting place to show MiniTrucin and the world that there is more to the small truck world than Toys, mazdogs, s-10s and rangers.

[74Dusted]

It sure is nice to see other nut cases like me doing odd ball trucks. Everybody and their dog has built a SBC S-10, Windsor powered Ranger or a Toyota powered by everything and anything as any idiot can order all the parts online and bolt it together.Now don't get me wrong I don't mind them but I would rather see weird stuff the the owner had to take time to "build" the truck then going to "Bob's bolt on goodies.com" and just order everything they need.

I'm with you there. Anybody and their cousin can build a SBC powered S10, SBF Ranger and so forth (like you said). But it takes a bit more work and fabrication to stick something different in a D50. Somewhere in the depths of my garage (one of the garages, anyway) I've got a 1979 Plymouth Arrow (truck, unfinished project) with a Supercharged 340 SBM engine from a 1971 GSS Dodge. When it's done it'll be an AWD 340 4-Speed truck. The differentials are cut down Chrysler 8.75" Rear Axles, set up to work with Independent Suspension (front & rear) I just never finished the truck, and it got pushed to the side.

Unlike the S10 i see driving around town, with a 350 in it and a fake blower sticking out of the hood...

[pennyman1]

I would think that the 71 gss motor should be in the demon at least for a little while - thats where is came from, a demon?

[74Dusted]

I would think that the 71 gss motor should be in the demon at least for a little while - thats where is came from, a demon?

Yep, came from a '71 Demon. One of my first cars actually (rust claimed that car though, i was only 12 at the time and didn't know places like YearOne existed. So it got junked) I probably will run it in my '71 Hemi Demon project car for a while though, at least while i build the 426 for it. I'm impressed that you knew what a GSS 340 was though, very few people do. '71 was the only year for the Supercharger too, 72 and up was a Naturally Aspirated 6-Pack setup instead.

[pennyman1]

There was an article in Mopar muscle or Mopar action just 2 or 3 months ago - it was a Mr Norm's Grand Spaulding Dodge dealer special. Not a lot of them built, and many less around after 40 years. Great you still have the drivetrain though.

[camoit]

It sure is nice to see other nut cases like me doing odd ball trucks.
Any idiot can order all the parts online and bolt it together.Now don't get me wrong I don't mind them but I would rather see weird stuff the the owner had to take time to "build" the truck then going to "Bob's bolt on goodies.com" and just order everything they need.

At least you are not building a Mall Crawler.... I haven't found anything that will bolt up directly to my build truck that did not need some kind of "re-engineering" or new mounting system. Only the stock things bolt up. IE: gas pedal and parking brake.

[Fordubishi]

Well off to Pick and Pull to see what i can find for a front bumper.A few years ago there was a 83 D50 sitting beside a 85 Accord with the front bumper cover off, I picked it up and as a joke put it over the bumper of the D50 and it fit. it even followed the wheel well curve. the only thing I saw that would really need to be changed it the side marker lights would need to be relocated.I'm not sure if I'm going to make new bumper ends out of steel and modify the OEM bumper, or try something different........... Hummm Accord bumper cover on a D50 would have to change its name to Hondabishi :)

[pennyman1]

Looked at that same conversion myself, but my truck was painted and I didn't want to start messing with the body of a freshly painted truck.

[Fordubishi]

Stripped and cleaned the master cylinder and brake booster, repainted it and put it all back together. almost looks factory again.

1251

[Fordubishi]

well got the brake system all in and lines run. here's a few pic's

1283
all clean and shiny

1282
rear all plumbed

[LethalEthan]

looks great! Are you using a pcv valve as a check valve there on the booster?

[Fordubishi]

that's the stock check valve, just have to do the 11/32" Vac line to the intake.

[Fordubishi]

Got some Stainless Steel brake lines made up today, 3000psi tested pressure and DOT approved. Was trying to find some online and that was nothing but a pain in the butt.So I went up to an industrial hose company I deal with and they made them up in 10 minutes.

1285

[DroppedMitsu]

Very nice, how much did those cost you?

[Fordubishi]

Lines cost me $75.00cdn so not much more then the stock ones would have cost.

Spent a few hours making a new fuse panel, got rid of the glass fuses and went to ATC's. Added 2 ignition and 2 Battery fuses so now have 12 instead of the stock 8.

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old and new

[pennyman1]

was that price for all 3 hoses or each? I just bought stock replacements for $4 for front and 8 for rear from rockauto, but I really want the SS ones.

[Fordubishi]

That was the cost of the front 2 with fittings installed and then pressure tested. Back is still rubber but might run up and get them to make me one, probably cost me $35-$40. Stock replacement here is $24.00 for the fronts. So $37.50 each for the fronts isn't bad in SS.

[pennyman1]

I agree - until I found them at rockauto on clearance, they are about 20 each here too, so that price is fair for a superior hose. Maybe I can get them made here the same way...

[Fordubishi]

Been working on the electrical system and getting the cooling hoses figured out.
augggggggggg I hate doing wiring but it has to be done.........

1304
new MSD 6a box.

1303
This should work nice.

[Fordubishi]

Oh well still working on the wiring, got the fan temp switch installed and soldered up a few more wires in the engine compartment. Should have it finished up this weekend. "IF" all goes well I might fire the engine for the first time in 11 years in a week or 2.

1312
Fan temp switch

[foolonthehill]

Awesome! SB Fords are great little engines!
You've done the same thing to that nice big round crossmember that I plan to do with mine when I take it apart to paint the chasis.

[Fordubishi]

Looks like I got the engine and front light wiring done today so moved on to relocating the heater core water outlets.Next step it the interior wiring.............

1340
Engine wiring all loomed and clamped just need to get a battery to finish the connections

1341
Made some pipes to move heater outlets

1339
Relocated heater outlets

[Fordubishi]

Made up a mount for my air compressor tonight. Got to love having SS scrap laying around to make stuff with :)

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[camoit]

Look at all that shiny stuff under the hood :) Fabrication so much more fun then electrical. At least you can see what you did. If you bend the supporting that you have camped on there you can use the compressor bolt to hold it together and avoid the welding. Also if you can put a 1/4 inch 90 deg brake along the long edge of the main plate where the clamp is you will double the strength of the flat plate. No flexing then.. I need to come up with a pan brake to do things right. It's the little things that I can't do at the house. :(

Looking good man... I want to here it run.. I'm hopping to start mine this spring or summer.

[Fordubishi]

Camoit you got it right, the bracket was just for fit up.After screwing around with a scrap piece I looked at it and thought "humm maybe I should use the compressor bolt to hold it in place". I found some SS angle and I'll be bending it up tonight to see what I come up with.

[Fordubishi]

Here we go, a few hrs screwing around and the compressor mount is done :))

1345

Now just have to plum the airline to the tank and the system is complete, other then finishing off the wiring to the control unit.

anyone got a gromet where the A/C would come out of the cab?? I don't have A/C but the cab I got did have it so I need to block it off (oval hole lower right of pic).

[camoit]

I did find a wire grommet that fits that hole perfectly, but... I have no idea what type of car it came out of. It was in my work yard around the pile of cars the tow company has. It has a number of. grom32115-s84-1-7105-1489 That has 0 results on google. But if you hit up a "U-strip-it" yards and look at the new cars you will find it. There is a booner poker that sticks out from each end. I want to say it was from a GM or Ford. The Russians were working on one when I found it.

[pennyman1]

I have a 1980 parts truck that has the grommet you are looking for, but I don't know the condition of it as I didn't look closely at it. LMK if you want it; it just pushes into the hole.

[Fordubishi]

Spent a bunch of hrs finishing up the wiring and getting the air ride controller all hooked up.Looks like the wiring is done except for final hookups to gauges, sensors, and misc. stuff.

1392
Air Controller mounted using the A/C brackets.

[Fordubishi]

Took a truck load of scrap in today got a little bit of cash and went and bought my gauges and speedo sensor. Damn programmable Fuel level gauge is on back order so I'll get that next week.

1460
Gauges in

1461
Pretty green

[Fordubishi]

There we go, all the gauges are wired and working (except the fuel)

1463

[camoit]

what brand of guages? Can you change the color?

[Fordubishi]

Autometer Sport Comp. I ordered 194 LED bulbs in green from http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2F1157.htm as the original 194's used a bulb condom. Autometer wanted $12 a bulb and I got them for $4 each from Superbrite

[Fordubishi]

OMFG found a used drivers door rust free. Price with shipping,taxes,duty,brokerage, $960usd............. ARE THEY NUTS ???????

[pennyman1]

they are only nuts if no one buys it - if you buy it, you are the nut. By your reaction, that is not going to happen. Foolonthehill said there is a yard near him that has 20 or more of our trucks - check with him to see what a door from there would cost.

[Fordubishi]

There we go the engine is completed and ready to fire as soon as I get a battery and put in some fluids.I will make a video of it running soon........

1495
Amazing what you can do with a BFH and shoehorns

[camoit]

What,,, thats it.... 1 lousy picture..... Come on ,your killing us...

[Fordubishi]

Here you go, sound is not great but its runs nice.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1cBeowM710&feature=player_detailpage

[mikeslowmax]

Freaking Nasty..... Well i guess it time for me to fit a 5Liter in my 2nd gen

[camoit]

That will spin the tires. I made an edit so the video is on the page. Hope you don't mind.

[Fordubishi]

Thanks Camoit I didn't know how to do that so I just made the link.

[camoit]

When making a post just look for this icon above the reply box. 1537

[Fordubishi]

got the gauges all finished up and installed. Here's a pic of the custom dash gauge pod.

1631
Turn signals and High beams are LED's, used the original Charge and Seat belt lenses glued to the back then used a couple 1:24th model car beauty rings to clean up the 5/8" hole.

[Acuta73]

Gonna do something similar, though I'm all about ripping out the old dash and boxing in with aluminum and carbon fiber right now.

Looks great!

[camoit]

carbon fiber right now.

Looks great!

Carbon is bucks. You can fake it bu making it out of aluminum or fiberglass and just putting 1 coat of carbon over it. I'm getting things ready for some carbon parts. I'll let you know how much it costs when it's done.

[Acuta73]

Have used CF for computer case mods, I understand the cost, I promise. LOL

Will likely use the carbon/kevlar blends. Look better.

[Fordubishi]

Never liked the look of CF myself, it looks like unfinished fiberglass that someones put a spray tint on then cleared.

[Fordubishi]

Been a while since I posted anything but all I'm doing is freaking body work. Just about got the roof done, fenders are almost ready for primer and misc. small dents filled.Hope to have the body sitting in E-coat in a week or 2. Still haven't found a drivers door :((

[camoit]

OK I got you a door. It was $76.00 USD. It's complete with glass and everything. The only thing is you will need to move the mirror holes. It's a low mount you have the high mount. It's not that big of a deal. It has no rust that I can see. Now we just need to get the shipping together. I'll get you a full weight of the door.

1933

[Fordubishi]

Holy Crap a door!!!!!. Thanks Camoit. Mirrors don't matter as I have a custom set that I modified from an 86 RX7 that are electric.

[foolonthehill]

Very nice build. Looks like you're about a year ahead of me, as I'm just getting all the mechanicals in mine worked out and then road tested for a few months. Then I'm going to blow it apart for a complete frame off rebuild. Nice work.
What is the ultimate destination for your exhaust?
I see you've done exactly what I'm planning in order to run the pipes through the cross memebers, and I'm building a fuel cell that'll sit at the back of the chassis where the spare was so I have room to tuck the mufflers in tight, and run a full exhaust system all the way back. I'm also mounting my battery in the back under the bed.
Carbon Fiber isn't that expensive. You can get all kinds of good carbon, and the hybrids mentioned here, in small quantities from Advanced Vehicle Technologies in Indy. Joel Walsworth will fix you up! Much cheaper than places like Fiberglast...
As far as how it looks, well, that's up to the guy who lays it up. You can see some of my work in the "other vehicles" thread. There are a few guys out there who know what they're doing, still not many, and still yet many more crooks and charlitans selling one ply of carbon on a crap fiberglass laminate as "high tech". Buyer beware...

[Fordubishi]

The exhaust will be run through the side of the bed with 3" SS tips cut at a 45 degree angle in front of the tires. I'm frenching in a 4.5" opening about 5-6" deep that the tips will run through. I relocated a new stock tank to where the spare was then ran a Holley Blue 110ghp pump.With the Air system, Shocks,4 link,Gas tank, Air tank and wiring I had 2 options, either run the exhaust under the frame in front of the 4 link mount or over the frame and out the side of the box. I think it's going to look better running out the side of the box and another plus is it won't get crushed if I bottom out on a speed bump or something.

[LiL Bastard]

Was planning on doing the same thing. Are you going to do the frenched tips into the actual rocker or do the tips at the very bottom edge ??

[Fordubishi]

Through the bottom front rocker. Then maybe some nice Flame throwers so I can have cooked Rice at the lights :lmao:

[Fordubishi]

Woot the door is here,thanks Camoit I can now strip it down and get it ready for primer next week. psst thanks for the Kilo of that fine California weed :P

[camoit]

Nothing like green, purple and red for X-Mas Ha Ha...

If I didn't do it already be sure to close your wanted add, Thanks and your welcome.

[Fordubishi]

Tore it down, test fit, then beat a few dents out...... I'm a happy camper

1993
will need the final line up but IT FITS!!!!!

[camoit]

I know the mirror mounting is different from your door. There is a High mount and a low mount for 1 gens. High is up next to the window. That one was a low mount. It came from a late model 1 gen.

[Fordubishi]

Doesn't matter where the mirrors were located I have custom mounted RX7 power mirrors that fit upper body line.So either style mount has to be filled.

[pennyman1]

On first gen the low mount mirrors bolt on top to the same holes as the sport mirrors - the bottom holes are added. My 1980 has old skool Vitaloni mirrors from the 80's painted to match mounted in the stock location.

[Fordubishi]

And I shall call him SPOT......... door is just about ready for final sanding then primer on the outside and inside painted the interior color.

First and Second Filler coat sanded.
2002

Third filler coat applied.
2001

[LethalEthan]

looks nice! any plans to body drop it?

[Fordubishi]

Nope, at one time was thinking of making it a tandem but went for a nice summer driver that I could drag race and show every once in a while.

[camoit]

What,,,, thats it??? 2 lousy pictures??? And no big pot leaf on the door.

[LiL Bastard]

Looks good

[Fordubishi]

Ok to make Camoit happy here's more then 1 picture of the door. Also a couple pic's of my shop.

2038 2036

2035 2034

2037 2033

[PowerRam348]

good work on the door. nice shop as well.

[camoit]

What did the old door look like? Looks like you have a nasty old brake job going on as well. I like the heater you have.

[Fordubishi]

the 78 F-350 has been sitting at a customer farm for a while. Getting it ready for an safety inspection. All new rims and tires (original are bios-ply on split rims), back brakes (drums and shoes), rebuilding the PTO pump for the dump bed,tune up, and some small electrical repairs.Shop is a mess right now,been real busy for the last 2 weeks so haven't had a chance to clean up.

I'll take a pic of the old door tomorrow.

[Fordubishi]

Couple of pic's of the old rusted driver side door.

2039 2040

[LiL Bastard]

That door isn't to bad. That door could be fixed :) A replacement door was the better way to go.

[camoit]

Ya but what is your time worth compared to the cost of the replacement. Now you can have a spar to work on whenever.

[Fordubishi]

the pic's don't do it justice, the bottom door skin is rotted up to the bottom hinge. I originally did a quick repair with JB Weld and RTV to keep it together, the metal around the lower hinge gone, it's being held in place by the inner hinge plate. yeah I could have repaired it but I would never get the lower body line correct. I B A Fabricator not a bodyman.

[Fordubishi]

Started working on the hood today striping off the 3 coats of old paint.

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First striping and clean up

[Fordubishi]

Just doing a quick fitment check on the new (used) body parts.

2081

[onerex]

Outstanding work bro! How do you plan to do your four link? As in bag on bar ect.

[Fordubishi]

Here's a pic of the 4 link set up.
2133

Pic of the rear Air Controllers
2134

The rear air lines are reversed (right side feeds left bag) to have enough hose to not bind or crimp.

[Fordubishi]

So I have a choice of the direction I can put my "hood scoop" on. Not sure if I should do it scoop style or cowl induction style. let me know what you think.

21802178
Scoop Style

21792181
Cowl induction style

[camoit]

Scoop forward, louvers backward. IMO.

[parrell456]

So I have a choice of the direction I can put my "hood scoop" on. Not sure if I should do it scoop style or cowl induction style. let me know what you think.

Is "hood scoop" in quotations because it will be non-functional? If so, I'd say the cowl induction look is best. If it will be functional, I like the forward scoop look; it's just so awesome!

-RHP

[parrell456]

Also, FRIENDLY MANITOBA! RIGHT ON!

-RHP

[parrell456]

I seen the plate on that Ford you're working on... got strangely excited there for a moment...

-RHP

[pennyman1]

Face it forward; it's not long enough to be a good cowl induction scoop, and it will work better if its functional. Look at my gallery pics to see what I mean.

[Fordubishi]

After playing around with it for a while the "scoop" didn't look right as it was to small.Desided to go "cowl" style,It is functional sort of. The air cleaner hits the cross bracing so with the scoop I'm able to cut the bracing out and put a small hole in the hood to let heat out and clear the air cleaner.

2184

the scoop is off a 1976 Mustang II

[camoit]

I know, face it backward and put it on the roof. Then you can call it a vent.
Now she is starting to take shape.

[Fordubishi]

A few pic's of the hood mods to clear the air cleaner.

2235 2234

2232

Pic of the mods to the underside bracing.
2233

[Fordubishi]

painting the hood for install.

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Top of hood in Epoxy coat.

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Underside sitting in paint (still needs the clear applied)

[Fordubishi]

OMG Camoit I see what you mean about some things taking a crap load of time....... Figured I would try and repair my DS side door hinge and 6+ hrs later guess what.......IT WORKED !!!!!!!!

2366
Original, Template, Rough Cut with Plasma

2367
Repaired after grinding to final shape.

[camoit]

ha ha ha ha ha......Dude I'm telling you. You need to go get a time clock. So you can punch in and out. I wish I did. The next time I'll have one. I hate body work.
Was it the first try? The next one will seem easer but it will take just as much time. That must have been a crap load of die-grinding, but now when you point it out to someone they will look at it and realize there is no way in hell they can do it. If it does not stay open the way you want it to then just put a weld bead on the back side.

I just finished up the window nets for the truck. The first one took about 12 hours of looking at it, and messing with it to get it mounted correctly. The second was a 8 hour day. Easer yes, but thats because I already figured out the problems on the first one.

Ya know, we have a lot of real talented guys on this board. It just sucks we are spread across the globe.

[Fordubishi]

Yeah I did it in one shot but it was grinding, test, disasemble, grind, test,........... GOT IT......... Weld the stud in place. also had to weld the bearing then grind it smooth then drill out the center to get the weld bleed through out so it would spin on the pin.

Body work GURRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr............ got the hood all shot in E-coat and after it dried I could see all the bracing structure through the top of the hood. Stripped the top down again and filling the small valleys where the hood dips into the under structure. I didn't see the dips when I stripped it the first time as the hood was covered in house paint and after it was stripped it looked good. WTB a FACTORY hood :P some damn aftermarket stuff is GARBAGE.

[Fordubishi]

Woot no more prop rod.
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12.5" rams and used 96-2003 F-150 ball studs.

[camoit]

Now thats a hell of an idea.

[pennyman1]

need more pics of that mod - was going to do that, just never got around to it. Measurements too...

[Fordubishi]

It semi worked, the struts are to weak and the angle is wrong so I'll try a heavier strut that's slightly longer. Tried the ones off My 02 F-150 and would hold up the hood but not solidly in place.

[Fordubishi]

Ok got it working, had to go with a 17" strut.

2394 2396
Strut attached and the hood open.

2395 2397
the front pin is 1 1/4" back from the middle fender bolt. The hinge pin is 2 1/4" from the front of the hinge.

[Acuta73]

Oh, hey, nice mod! I like that idea! Beat the crap out of the support rod for convenience.

How much of a pain was it to get the bolt into the fender wall?

[Fordubishi]

well as I have no inner plastic wheel well it was easy and the fact the fenders were only on with 3 bolts for fit up.So just drilled a 3/16" hold through the inner fender and installed the Ball stud with a nut .

The ball studs are real easy to get they were on the top for the fenders from a 96-03 F-150. went out to Pick and pull found some F-150's with no hoods and took the ball studs. Got to love Pocket your parts. :)

[pennyman1]

great - now I have to get 2 sets of struts and bsll studs to do both of mine. Wonder if the struts I have from a starquest rear hatch will work...

[camoit]

Fordbushi.
You want a set of louvers for the truck. I'm getting a set made for my truck. They come from a Camaro I think. There not to big or to small. I don't know if Jeff is going to make them from just fiberglass or carbon fiber yet. But I'm in the process of cleaning up the plug so he will be making a new set of molds. Now that you have the cowl induction these would go nicely out on the sides over the wheels. They won't be to much cost wise I would guess. I'll know more later.

2411 2412

[Fordubishi]

Nice. but I will not have a chevy part anywhere near my truck. One of the custom plates I was looking at getting was "NO EKG" (joke on chev's old saying "heartbeat of America" ) I have gone out of my way to find parts from anything BUT chevy. I have parts from Ford,VW,Toyota,Mits,Nissan,Dodge,and some others misc parts.I hate Chev's,as I'm always working on them and never had one that would last more then 6 months. I spent 6 months building a 85 Camaro with a built to the nuts 355 in it, damn thing would never break out of the 14's in the 1/4 and a Friends STOCK 88 5.0L Mustang LX notch would beat it.

[camoit]

By them self you can never tell that they came form a 79 firebird or Z28. They just look cool. All thats known for sure is they are a 1979 ????

[Finnie3d]

Holy Crehhp man! Guys are really going hard for Max/D50 on the board... I love it. Great work! Keep it going.

[Fordubishi]

just a small update..... been busy as as hell in the shop so haven't had time to do anything on the D-50 for the last 3 weeks till today and started to get the doors painted on the inside for final mounting.

[Acuta73]

What was the weight rating on those struts? Found 45lb 17" struts x2 for $25 USD.

http://www.amazon.com/SUSPA%C2%AE-Spring-Strut-Shock-C16-04270/dp/B0041EBSTS/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2

Can get ball brackets for $9 USD for a full set, too.

[Fordubishi]

Not sure as I got them from a surplus parts store. I tried different pressures till I found ones that worked.

[camoit]

Not sure as I got them from a surplus parts store. I tried different pressures till I found ones that worked.

You got any part numbers on them you can share?

[Fordubishi]

Strut is a Master-Lift ML 36-70 so it should be a 70lbs lift according to all the sites I have checked. Master-Lift is no longer made,they went to a different name and part number so not sure the cross number for it.

[Acuta73]

With a target of 70lbs I have something to work with and can dig more. Good enough and thank you!

[Fordubishi]

slowly getting the sheet metal into Epoxy primer. Few more pieces to go.

2680
Drivers Side Fender

2681
Hood and Drivers door (thanks Camoit)

[parrell456]

the muffler will be fine either way as long as the exhaust dumps outside the body not under the a floor. My first build I just dumped the exhaust after the muffler and at 60-70mph in OD the thing droned like a Mo-Fo under the bed so bad I had to take it out of OD after 10 minutes of driving.My current build the exhaust will dump out the sides of the box just in front of the rear wheels.The mufflers are under the cab floor and are Dynomax Ultra flows and all I hear is the exhaust at the tips.

2685 2686

Fordubishi, I was thinking about chopping my exhaust after the diff because I don't like seeing it; I want as little mechanical parts showing as possible. Even with the exit so far back, do you think the noise in the cab could be that bad? In your opinion, is there another way to get what I want, or will I be fine by just cutting a bit off the end to hide the exhaust?

-RHP

[Fordubishi]

Best thing to probably do is cut off the tail pipe after the axle and make a replacement that faces the road at a slight angle facing out from under the bed,flush or a little above the roll pan.It wasn't loud just droned real bad,where my dumps were it would hit the road,bounce around under the bed and resonate in all the open areas.Now granted the engine in OD was only turning 1500-1700rpm and had a very low tone adding to the drone so I would have to put it into D and bring the rpm up to around 2200-2400rpm that would change the tone of the exhaust stopping the resonating.

[Fordubishi]

Had some time today and got some more painting done.

2737
Caliper in paint

2738
put in a rebuild kit and reassembled

2739
Door edge sitting in body color, doing the interior gray next.

[Fordubishi]

got some more painting done today,finished the inside colors and the outside in E-coat.

2747
Interior gray and iris done.

2746
Door in Epoxy Coat

[Acuta73]

Doing the spray bomb thing or do you have HVLP?

Looks good!

[Fordubishi]

I have 2 Pro-Tek HVLP's and a cheap siphon gun for primer. I do use spray bombs for small stuff.

[1987-bishi]

That's badass dude.. what mufflers do you have on it?

[Fordubishi]

The mufflers are Dyno-max Ultra Flows, their the older style none welded body. 2.5" in and 2.5" out

[Fordubishi]

Folded over the lip on the fender to give the tire more clearance.

2760
Notching the flange.

2758
Flange folded over

2759
JB Weld to make smooth.

[camoit]

Why not bondo?

[Fordubishi]

Bondo will crack were the JB Weld will bond the metal together and flow into the cuts.Also the JB Weld put a little more strength into the edge.

[camoit]

How about fiberglass resin? That crap does not crack even with lots of flex.

[Fordubishi]

Fiberglass resin is great for flexibility but has no structural strength without the glass.

[pennyman1]

I agree - devcon makes metal - filled 2 part epoxy that works so well it can be drilled, tapped, ground, and with withstand up to 300 degrees

[Fordubishi]

Got some more stuff done today, E-coated the valance and started on the bumper mods.

2786
Valance

2785
little more air flow for the rad.

going to try and make steel end caps for the bumper and maybe go with a different set of turn/marker lights.

[camoit]

You going to chrome the expanded steel?
Say yes....

[Fordubishi]

Nope, might go black but not sure if I'm doing the bumper black or body color yet. If I go body color I will see how it looks and then maybe paint it black.

Chrome goes on the inside not the outside :P

[pennyman1]

My buddy who painted Geronimo got a set of metal end caps from a Toyota truck bumper, possibly a early 4runner, and grafted them onto his 81 Arrow truck.

[Fordubishi]

That was the other way I was thinking of going Pennyman. I found new end caps online for $13.00 but I'm not paying $89.00 shipping per.

[Fordubishi]

Spent a few hrs going through my parts box's ...... can't find my inside light and my passengers side headlight bucket is from something else. Oh well off to Pick and Pull tomorrow and see what I can find. Going to look at some different bumper turn signal lights while I'm there.

[Fordubishi]

Was out at Pick-N-Pull for a few hrs yesterday and found some bumper end caps off an 86 Nissan. Started doing a rough fit up on my bumper and with a little cutting,grinding and welding it looks like they are going to work. I will take pic's of what was needed to modify them to fit.

2876
First test fit for clearance.

[parrell456]

Was out at Pick-N-Pull for a few hrs yesterday and found some bumper end caps off an 86 Nissan. Started doing a rough fit up on my bumper and with a little cutting,grinding and welding it looks like they are going to work. I will take pic's of what was needed to modify them to fit.

That is such an awesome idea and I bet it'll look amazing! Is my bumper taller than yours? Something tells me I wouldn't be able to use those end caps.

-RHP

[Fordubishi]

Here we go with the end cap mods........

2878 2877
shortening the caps.

2879
Notching to clear fender lip

2880 2881
Rough fit up before doing some welding to fill the back of the cap.

The first gen bumpers are the same sizes, the only real difference is the holes in the center. So the caps would fit the 84-86 as well with these mods.

[Fordubishi]

Few more pic's of the bumper work.

2885
both caps on and rough fit.

2886
Drivers side cap.

2887
Passengers side cap.

[Fordubishi]

Started welding up and blending in the end caps.Still have some touch ups and smoothing to do but it looks like is going to turn out ok.

2902
Drivers side cap welded.

[Fordubishi]

Got the welding and grinding done. Have some small pin holes to fill but basically the bumper is done.

2906
Drives side

2907
Passengers side

so i now have an all steel 1 piece bumper :))

[Fordubishi]

Yet another mod to the bumper. Making a LED truck turn signal fit into factory location.This is the first rough set up.

2913
6.5" X 2" truck light.

[camoit]

take it you are not going to use the rubber grommet to hold in the light.

Truck lite now has LED head lights. CLICK HERE
(http://www.truck-lite.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/GenericView?storeId=10001&langId=-1&pageName=/home.jsp)

[pennyman1]

I have the same end caps from an 86 nissan - now I know they will work on Geronimo. As far as the 83-86, they are not tall enough - I can post pics of that as I have a 86 bumper not on the project truck and the end caps.

[Fordubishi]

Few more hrs work and got the light basically installed, just have to do the blending on the outside then ready for primer.

2918
Front side

Used the hard plastic mount from the back and JB welded it on to the bumper then used Tech-Steel to finish attaching it on the back side.

2919
Back side

Damn it Camoit those are what I'm looking for, something different then the standard light.

[camoit]

for marker lights check out http://www.maxxima.com/ These guys make the trick lighting. Click here for the cool ones (http://www.maxxima.com/products/product_detail/185/LCL-3R%20Red%20Chrome%20Micro%20Interior%20Courtesy%20 Light/view/.html).

[crvtec90]

Looking good man :thumbup:

[Fordubishi]

Got the passengers side finished up and started the drivers side.

2922
Passengers side bucket

2923
Started drivers side

[Fordubishi]

Got the turn signals done and installed.Down to final priming and E-coat.

2935
All installed

[Acuta73]

Assuming you know, but just in case you don't (or for others reading the thread), goin LED on your signals means you will likely have to put a large (50w) resistor after your signal relay to keep it from acting like it has a blown bulb. The LED use so little power and pretty much no amps (milli-amps) so the circuit will either go to "hyper flash" and flicker like a strobe, or just not work.

I would assume using a constant rate flasher relay might do the same, but I'm really not sure.


You do good work, really like how smooth the caps came out!

[Fordubishi]

Yeah I have run into that with newer computer controlled lighting systems,I've been working on an 08 Mustang that had that problem and added the inline resistor in to stop the 3rd mounted brake light from always being on as it reads as a fault.The lights I used have the resister built into them and they work fine (tested yesterday).

[camoit]

Assuming you know, but just in case you don't (or for others reading the thread), goin LED on your signals means you will likely have to put a large (50w) resistor after your signal relay to keep it from acting like it has a blown bulb. The LED use so little power and pretty much no amps (milli-amps) so the circuit will either go to "hyper flash" and flicker like a strobe, or just not work.

I would assume using a constant rate flasher relay might do the same, but I'm really not sure.


You do good work, really like how smooth the caps came out!

OR, just go out and get your self a new flasher from Grote. Part # 44891 (http://www.grote.com/product.php?product_number=44891) It will keep you from dealing with the resistor problem. Any Napa or heavy truck repair shop can get it. Connect white wire to ground.

2966

[parrell456]

OR, just go out and get your self a new flasher from Grote. Part # 44891 (http://www.grote.com/product.php?product_number=44891) It will keep you from dealing with the resistor problem. Any Napa or heavy truck repair shop can get it. Connect white wire to ground.

2966

My lighting wiring is apart right now; this is awesome info! Thanks for the tip!

-RHP

[parrell456]

Got the turn signals done and installed.Down to final priming and E-coat.

2935
All installed

Your truck is wild, and I'm really into it! Such great work, keep it up!

-RHP

[Fordubishi]

Found some nice clear LED marker lights and they even screw into the factory mounting holes.The bed holes are a little to big so I'll have to fill them when I do the body work on it.

3013
light off

3014
light on

[camoit]

Cough, part#, Cough, caugh...

[Fordubishi]

LOL Camoit....... Grote part #47923 for the amber and #47922 for the red

[Acuta73]

GRRR! I like those better than mine! Damnit.....

Still don't like chrome, but that can be "fixed".

Mebbe some other time.

[Fordubishi]

The chrome is just a trim ring so I might sand them down and paint them body color. I'll leave them chrome for now and see how it looks with the final paint on it.

[Fordubishi]

Bumper all done,here's some pic's of it in E-Coat.

3018
Front

3016
Back with caps finished

3017
The light's are flush with the bumper.

[mllrtm79]

:thumbup:that is sweet looking. I've been in and around the trucking industry my whole life, more leds are always good

[Fordubishi]

Quick pic of basically what it will look like when the front end is all back together with the lights on.

3019
front sheet metal on and lights turned on.

[pennyman1]

Are those side markers flat faced like the original side markers, or are they curved? My side markers are setup "floating" - bolts flush through the fender and slide the lights on and nut them from the back.

[Fordubishi]

their a domed oval
3034

size spec's
3035

[Fordubishi]

Spent the day masking the truck and putting the first coat of primer on.I will be doing another coat then sanding it all. After that it gets shot in E-coat and then painting the door jams and window openings in body color.Maybe by next week I will have the sheet metal all back on and bolted down.

3036
Cab in first coat of primer

[camoit]

Hay,, any tricks on removing the wiper drive arm and motor???? I need to pull mine for powder coat.

[Fordubishi]

Not really, just undo the 3 bolts holding on the motor plate, pop it off the arm.Then undo the other side plate and the 2 nuts holding the drive arm. drop into the cowl area and pull it out the passengers side.I just took the nut off the back of the motor and removed the small arm leaving it attached to the main arms.

be damn careful with the nuts on the wiper mounts, mine were a (Female Dog) to get off, I had to soak them in Seafoam (better the WD40) a couple of times till they broke lose.

[Fordubishi]

Couple pic's of the cab in it's first coat of E-coat.

3043
Front Left

3044
Rear right

[Fordubishi]

E-coat all done on the cab, now have to wait a day or 2 to paint the door jams and window openings in body color.

3048
Cab all E-coated

[Acuta73]

Looks really good. That a matte or just needs polish yet?

[Fordubishi]

That's just the Epoxy coat, its a semi-gloss sealer till I can get it to a body shop for paint.Its the same stuff that new sheet metal is sprayed in when you get it so it doesn't rust.

[pennyman1]

Geronimo is done in ppg dp40 all over - put it on bare metal before filler bodywork. Been done for 21 years without any rust - also seen it done after filler bodywork hold up the same way - personal preference. The reason I did it first is the filler will stick to the dp40 better than bare metal and it prevents moisture getting trapped under the filler. The dp40 I used is lead-based, which was all there was back then - now if you want lead based primer, it is industrial coating epoxy primer. The best reason for the lead in any paint is that it gives the paint some flex - today's lead free paints chip so easy because they are too hard and can't flex.

[Fordubishi]

So damn true Pennyman, I Sandblasted the cab first then used a 80grit DA where I had to use body filler, then a good quality primer,then the E-Coat.The E-coat I'm using is designed to cover bare metal or sink through primer to bond with the metal. Next step is taking it to a body shop and having it sprayed in a good high build primer to get rid of the small stuff i missed.Then finally paint.

I used to use DP40 and DP200 till they got way to expencive, that stuff is fantastic. Went with this E-coat I have now just to seal the body as primer is porous. I miss the "old days" when you could get the lead based paints. It flowed out so nice left a better finish then the "new" paints on the market.I've been using the water born BASF (RM) system for about a year when I have to match a fender or door to a vehicle I've repaired and is seems to work very well for small repairs but we'll see if it will stand up like the old lead based paints.

[Fordubishi]

Got the door jams and window openings into paint today so I can now start putting the body parts back on.

3052
Jams painted

[Fordubishi]

Started putting the body back together today.Got the doors mounted and lined up. So it starting to look like a truck again :))

3056 3054
Passenger and drives side sheet metal

3055
OMG DOORS !!!!!!!

[camoit]

Why the hell did you paint the drivers door? There was nothing wrong with the red. It was ready for installation and had such a nice Christmas look to it.

[Fordubishi]

Got the fenders, grill and bumper all bolted up and got the inside back panel covered.

3160
Sheet metal all bolted up.

3158
Back panel covered.

3159
Back panel with Amp.(placed to see how it looks)

[Fordubishi]

Doing a test fit on the back panel and sub box. Seems to be turning out ok

3161

[Acuta73]

Nice! Will have seats with massage, now!

;)

[DroppedMitsu]

Truck is looking damn good, i like the rear panel too.

[Fordubishi]

Interior going back together slowly.Carpet,back panel, subs, amp, and seat belts all bolted back into the truck.Have to wash the crap out of the seats as they are dirty as hell sitting in the shop collecting dust for 12 years. Dash is in as well and everything is attached. I will be getting the cracks repaired next winter and re-dying it as well.

3228
Back panel all put together.

3229
Dash all in.

[camoit]

Interior already? You don't have it painted yet.

[Fordubishi]

That's why I painted the door jams and window edges so when I take it in to be painted they only have to spray the outside sheet metal.

[Fordubishi]

Had some time between customers to put in the seats.Ordered the power steering box rebuild kit today so can't install the steering till I rebuild it.

3235
Passenger seat

3234
Drivers Seat

3236
Both seats

The seats are from a 88 Escort GT/ Escort EXP on the factory Mits seat tracks with a small tab welded to the track closest to the door as the Ford seats are narrower then the Mit's. The inside track bolts right into the Ford factory holds with no mods.

[camoit]

Whats your estimated finish date. I'm stuck weighting on carbon fiber parts. :( Can't go forward tell there done and fitted, then it's off to powder coating. :)

[Fordubishi]

Shooting for the middle of Aug. to be back on the road. Just going to throw the box back on and do all the body work and mods on it in Nov. when it gets put away for the winter.Will be cutting the exhaust holes in the bed and the gas tank filler neck in a week or 2.I'm just about done everything,have the brakes to install bleed, go through finishing tightening up all the suspention, Fix a small tranny leak, get the front glass installed,rebuild the power steering box,paint the inside fender edges before I drop on the hood,finish recovering the door panels to mach the back panel, and a few bits and pieces.

[Fordubishi]

Got a lot done in the last week, Gas tank filler neck is completed to fit through the floor of the bed, front suspention all tightened down, greased all the ball joints and Tie rod ends, rebuilt the power steering box, installed the steering wheel, tightened down the 4 link,front brakes all installed. So down to finishing the back brakes, bleeding the system, fix the tranny leak,mounting the box, installing the front glass, and finishing up the interior.

I will be close to my estimated date of mid Aug. and have its first show second weekend of Sept.

[Fordubishi]

Ran the truck for almost 45 minutes and with the new 14" electric fan I put in. The temp sat between 170-190 degrees and it was in the mid 80's here today with no wind. Looks like I'll not have any overheating problems.

3292
Derale 14" High output 2100cfm fan (2 5/8" thick)

[Fordubishi]

Was a good day today, Windshield installed, new door locks arrived at the parts store after a 6 week wait and got them installed,got all the parts for the rear brakes,few interior parts put in, and box is now stripped down for some hole repair before I take it to get sandblasted then getting Line-X sprayed on the underside and in the bed.Tomorrow picking up the rear SS brake line and should be able do a quick test drive around the block tomorrow night or maybe this weekend.

So I'm down to finishing up the interior, putting the box back together and dropping it on the frame,putting the exhaust tips on, and a few minor things.Looks like I will hit my deadline of being a driver again by the middle of Aug.

[DroppedMitsu]

Good to hear you're going to make your predicted time frame, seems like youre making good progress. I can't wait to see it together

[Fordubishi]

Happy camper!!!!! Finished up all the small stuff today and took the truck for a quick spin.Here's a small video


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCFzfG2BSkc&feature=player_detailpage
still needs a little more ATF as its slipping in and out of gear

[Sergio T]

That's awesome. Can't wait to see your truck finished too.

[Acuta73]

Sounds great! Love the placement on the fuel tank, I'm wanting to do similar, though I think I'll use a fuel cell as I want to run dual tanks. Bugger gonna be removing the rusted in place spare tire hanger that's 20 years past useless. That thing hangs real low....gonna put some armor underneath it?

Quick questions on the sunroof. Custom job, I assume? I've heard because the roof in the 1st gen is so flimsy that they don't go in well, any truth to that? Think I can stiffen it well enough if needed. Was thinking about grabbing one of the NewPort 18x28 off Fleabay.

[Fordubishi]

The new sunroofs have multiple mounting so I went with a http://www.crlaurence.ca/crlapps/showLine/offerpage.aspx?ProductID=114&GroupID=21825&History=30587:21809:21810:21814&ModelID=21825&pom=0 and it worked out great.Now granted the roof sheet metal will flop a bit but the sunroof mounting bracket tightens everything back up. if you go that way use Urathine under the lip not the crappy sealing tape that comes with the kit.

Tank actually sits higher where I mounted it then in the factory location so not sure yet if I'm going to add a skid plate yet.

[Sergio T]

Sunroof, huh...I may steal this idea from you. Lol

[Fordubishi]

Yep 3-60 A/C ............ 2 windows open and the sunroof popped doing 60MPH :lmao:

[pennyman1]

The single wall roofs on the first gen trucks are why the sunroofs leaked on these trucks, no rigidity at all and constant flexing - the "factory" sunroof had a real wide lip to try to minimize flexing, but a piece of lauan underlayment would solve the problem, and make the cab much quieter. I have a factory sunroof on my 1st gen parts truck if you want it - I'll never install it on either of my 1st gens. We can do a sell to donate - just pay shipping.

[Fordubishi]

More small stuff done today, got the 86 RX7 Power mirrors installed and wired, finished up the welding for the new rear marker lights,cleaned and repaired the box wiring harness. and a few other small things.

So down to the rust repair on the box and finishing recovering the door panels. Once I get the box repaired I'm getting it sandblasted for the undercoating and spray in bed liner. Lower box panels are stripped and ready for some small body work and then the epoxy primer.

[Fordubishi]

Got 1 door panel completed today and picked up some speakers that will work for now.I'm missing the screw cover cap for the arm rest if anyone has one please let me know.

3430
door panel completed other then the arm rest cap.

3429
Turned out ok.

[camoit]

What the hell you mean,, OK,, Looks dam good from here. At least there not brown or yellow with black stripes.

[crvtec90]

Youre gauges look great, they should have been like that from the factory.

[Fordubishi]

Got a crap load done the last 2 days so all I have left is box repair,body work,priming and picking up the exhaust tips. Found out I need another 3 gallon air tank or maybe a 5 as the 3 gallon I have keeps needing to refill.

3446
Interior all done.(drivers seat out drying from cleaning it)

3445
Body all back together other then the box.

[l.k.]

Great work i am really impressed with those door panels. glad to see progress being made. keep it up buddy!

[Fordubishi]

Box rust repair COMPLETED!! Just have some holes to weld up on the bed rail and some body filler work and it will be ready for E-Coat. If everything goes good I should be driving it at the end of the week.

Found a small air leak in one of the fittings so have to fix that tomorrow.

[Fordubishi]

Dropped the box on tonight to cut the hole for the gas tank filler.Here's a few pic's

3476
you can see where the exhaust will dump.

3477

3478

[Fordubishi]

Box is on and sitting in E-Coat, will have pic's tomorrow when I get the lower rear panels on. Have a few things to do tomorrow and its street legal again.

[Fordubishi]

Finally on the road.Have to finish the front lower box panels and the tail gate but basically the truck is back to being a driver.

3529

3531

3532

3530
Gas tank filler needs a locking cap yet.

[DroppedMitsu]

Your truck is looking sweet!

[Fordubishi]

Started cutting the hole in the lower front box panel's today. Here's a pic of it test fitted.

3537
Not sure if I'm going to french it in or leave it as is.

[camoit]

A spark plug and a fuel pump, and you can have an anti-carjacking device.






http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=endscreen&v=LQbHnLSasfQ

[crvtec90]

Did you make your own new lower side panel for the bed from scratch? It looks like a new piece. Clever way of routing the exhaust tip anyhow

[Fordubishi]

Nah just the stock panel all stripped and sanded to do the hole before I do the little body work and E-coat.

[crvtec90]

Nah just the stock panel all stripped and sanded to do the hole before I do the little body work and E-coat.

oh, i was thinking it was new since it wasnt on the truck in the previous pics and youve been doing rust repairs.

[Fordubishi]

Here we go..... All back together and running. Now I have to work all the small bugs out of it and get an alignment done.

3556

3557

3558
Air bags deflated.

[camoit]

What,,, thats it????? Black primer????? Come on now... Hell, I piss a better color than that. :)

[screwball]

Hi there,I was scanning thru your post. I have a 1989 Mighty max that i bagged , lays frame, the whole 9. I have been trying to sell it but now I would love to drop my 289/C4 combo into it. I saw how you did the motor mounts, I am curious about what tranny you went with and did you have to channel the tranny hump to fit it, Also wondering if anything ended up hanging lower that the frame rails. Sweet build dude, if you could pass some insight this way I would appreciate it greatly.

[Fordubishi]

I went with an AOD so i had to cut the tranny tunnel around the bell housing and raise it up a few inch's. With a C4 you shouldn't have to do much as the bell housing is a hell of a lot smaller then the AOD's. Built a flat X-member for the tranny and tucked the mufflers under the cab so nothing hangs below the front cross member. Other then taking BBK shorty headers and modifying them to dump were I needed them everything else was pretty easy.Had a forklift 4 core rad made to fit under the header panel but with a sec gen like yours you can probably find something that will fit from another car/truck.

[screwball]

So do you think with everything lined up ready to go that I could knock this out in a weekend? Or is that being too hasty? Are the mid length headers too long to run? I believe Im going to run the pipe right through the frame rail and side dump the pipe, but keep it behind the metal. I am super happy your setup tucks up under the truck thats good news for me, Thank you for your knowledge so far.

[Fordubishi]

Maybe a LONG weekend....... the first time I built the truck took me about 3 weeks to get everything in and it running. I used the stock drive shaft but had front half shortened and a ford yoke welded on.Used a 82 Crown Vic passengers side exhaust manifold and a 71 Bronco drivers side as they dumped in the right places.Relocated the floor shifter hole for the 83 Mustang shifter and made a rod the correct length, and of course the new tranny x-member.Few other things were adapting the Ford Dura-Spark to the Mit's wiring and using a Mits Alt. with Ford brackets.

you can go with a B&M shifter. MSD 6a ignition box an older style Ford Alt to not have to modify as much as I had to. With the exhaust you can always run the pipes to the passenger side and get a duel in and out 2 chamber muffler placed under the box where the stock pipe runs and everything will be tucked up above the frame.Or run 2.5" primaries to a single 3" pipe and muffler in the same location.Any Headers will have to be modified to clear the steering box.

[Fordubishi]

First car show for the truck but last show for the season around here. 2000+ cars/trucks for a single days show with around 15,000 people showing up so I never could get pic's of the stuff I wanted.

3720
end of the day as people were leaving.

[DroppedMitsu]

Sounds like a big show, I need to get to one here soon. The trucks looking awesome though, must be fun driving it again huh?

[Fordubishi]

Yeah it sure is. Found a few small problems I need to address over winter. (we get what's call snow here Camoit and not the stuff you sniff it's frozen rain) The ring and pinion have some rust on them from sitting without oil for 12 years and are howling, but that's not a big deal to replace.

On my way to the show I hit some construction and had to slow down to 50mph (80kph) and had a Caddilac CTS tailgate me till the end of the construction,When the construction ended I floored it,the truck down shifted to 3rd and I left the CTS like it was a 4 cyl. I ended up hitting 100+mph (160-170KPH)in a few seconds and watched the CTS get real small real quick in the mirror. Damn I love my 302 in a 2200lbs truck

[slappy302]

Have you always had the bags on it I won't have the money or the parts for the bags curious if there is any spring shock setup I could use when I drop the 302 in it?

[Fordubishi]

Originally I had the stock springs on the front and rear leafs in back.The weight of the engine dropped the front an inch or so and the back I used a 1" drop block on the stock springs. With the 4.something gears it was nuts so I swapped the rear to a ranger axle with 3.45 gears and drove it for a few years till I did the rear air bags.

[slappy302]

Ok Ima spend a couple lunch breaks at local junk yards and find some stuff thanks for that I was really confused with thy situation haha

[slappy302]

Also what years can I get the power steering box from?

[Fordubishi]

Any Sec gen from 87 up, I used a 88 Ranger power steering pump and made a high pressure line from a 96 F-150 by cutting off the imperial fitting on the box side and flaired on a metric one. The Ranger PS pump runs 1100-1250 psi so it's the same as the original mits one that runs 1099-1250 psi

[slappy302]

Sweet I'm so glad you guys answer I have a fox body joined a forum asked one question got zero responses don't get how people can be so rude haha but thanks for your help seriously

[slappy302]

Also I know the rangers a five lug what did you do about the front? Did you change it also and if so how and what did you use?

[Fordubishi]

Did the 86-95 Toyota 2wd conversion http://www.mightyram50.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=70&t=267#p1515 will explain it.

[Fordubishi]

Had a few problems with the relocated gas tank so I went and got a 17 gallon fuel cell from RCI. Did some fab work on the mounting and relocated the Holley blue fuel pump below the tank. It fits real nice under the box and is only 7" deep where as the stock tank is 11" deep so the filler neck will be hidden under the box floor and axcessed through a door made from the piece I cut out. I will get pic's as I'm doing the install.Factory gas tank is also 17 gallons so.........

3940
30" long, 17" wide, 7" deep

[Fordubishi]

Fuel Cell all installed, need to find or make a filler door but for now it works.

3977
Installed and Fuel pump on isolators

3978
Filler neck now below the floor

[Fordubishi]

working on the fuel cell locking door. took a little while but got it all made and installed.

4544
Took a few hrs but its the right size.

4548
cut and modified the bed to except the door

4545
Door installed

4547
Door open to axcess the cap

4546
What it looks like all locked up

[Acuta73]

Very nice.

Plan on my second tank going to the fender behind the original filler, but I like that idea, too!

[camoit]

OR, just go out and get your self a new flasher from Grote. Part # 44891 (http://www.grote.com/product.php?product_number=44891) It will keep you from dealing with the resistor problem. Any Napa or heavy truck repair shop can get it. Connect white wire to ground.

2966


My lighting wiring is apart right now; this is awesome info! Thanks for the tip!

-RHP




Sorry but I had a problem with this unit on my build. But there is a solution. Ignore all other information. Unless it's working on your rig.
See this thread.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/1838-SOLVED-Led-Flasher-Problems

[Fordubishi]

Oh well I'm working backwards again...... Have to pull the engine and tranny as I have a tranny seal leak and a few small things to do. not a huge deal and it will be easier to put in the Lokar shifter system. Need to replace the harmonic ballancer, water pump is still leaking so need to address that too.Ordered a 5 gallon air tank. Engine should be out tomorrow and back in by Friday if I can get all the parts.Guess that's what happens when you let seals sit unoiled for 12 years. $5 part ends up taking 8+ hrs to replace. Camoit knows all about how small things end up taking forever to finish :P

[camoit]

Thats all I'm down to,,, Is the small things. Ask the wife, she keeps telling me the same thing. How much longer is this going to take....

[Fordubishi]

Engine and Tranny are out, new shifter detent is installed,front tranny seal replaced,Front crank seal on order(pick up tomorrow). Found a small problem in the tranny where the throttle valve was sticking so I fixed that while I had it open.Also found the tranny was hitting the floor is 2 spots because after market mount is taller then the factory one by about 1/2" so I have to modify my X-member a bit.I Hope the US economy stays crappy for at least another 6-12 months as parts are now cheaper here then ordering online from the US :lmao: Granted I have to wait a few weeks to get the part but I don't have to pay all the shipping and duty that way so I saved just over $100.00 ordering it from here then through Jegs/Summit.

[camoit]

Lets see,, They raised the tax rate, increased the spending limit, started to ban guns and ammo, And things are slower now then last year. So ya you are going to get your wish.

[Fordubishi]

Got my new shifter installed so the engine can go back in next week sometime.

4722
Lokar 8" Midnight Series shifter and boot.

[Fordubishi]

welded in the new mounts for my second air tank so I now have a 3 gallon and a 5 gallon for the air system.Painted it all up and used the last of my purple but thanks to Greenteagod I will have more on Monday !!!!

4878
Duel tanks installed.

[Fordubishi]

Started working om my Mini bikes to put in the back of the truck for shows. Repainting one to match the truck and the other I will do paint later to look like a 90 Honda VFR 750R (RC-30)

http://i1224.photobucket.com/albums/ee370/Fordubishi/Other%20Stuff/Minix2_zpsbcb223fe.jpg?t=1365389864

http://motorcycle-specs.com/general/Honda-VFR_750R_RC30-1990.jpg
How the second one will be painted.

Now all I need if Camoit to find me a mini boat and I'm set

[BradMph]

Those are friggin cooool! :thumbup: Funny though, a guy with a big V8 minitruck and he has mini-bikes. I kind of expected to see a V8 sticking out of one of those bikes, lol