Running hot

[skullzaflare]

i know it has been 100f in my area recently so it is to be somewhat expected, however, i am fighting a cooling problem.

175k~ supposedly headgasket was replaced at 150k

91 4d56
td04 15t 30-40PSI
good aluminum 3 core radiator, clutch fan running and electric that kicks on at 190

Current tests, 160 tstat runs hotter, 180t runs hot but better, no stat runs cooler overall and cools down better
this is mostly flat ground, slight slope, gearing at 50mph is 1400rpm or so and 0-3psi. 70mph is 7-10psi at 2400rpm
runs cooler at 50mph, in OD at 1400, with OD off at 2200rpm it gets warmer..

I have a new water pump, have not installed it, with stat out you can see coolant flowing fast.
Im thinking maybe cracked head?

Oh, EGT at 50 is 0-400 depending on load
EGT at 70 400-800 depending on load
EGT is AFTER turbo about 2"

Meth injection running washer fluid, does not help at all no matter the settings

[huff]

I'm not expert on cooling at all. But isn't it weird that the 160 tstat runs hotter than the 180?

Anyhow, I would probably just keep the thermostat out for the rest of the summer.


Also, for your radiator - do you have a shroud to direct the flow of air to the fan?

I imagine that at higher speeds/ higher rpms, that the electric fan might actually be a restriction for the air being pulled by the mechanical fan.


I don't follow your reasoning of why you suspect a cracked head from the fact that coolant flows fast... (Or do you mean that coolant is exiting the system and moving to the environment, which yeah, would be a bit of a problem, lol.) Is there white steam coming out of the exhaust? Or is there foamy oil on the dipstick? Those are the symptoms I know about that indicate a cracked head.


I'm guessing that if you have a methanol injection system, you probably already know a lot more than I do about this stuff, but those are my suggestions.





i know it has been 100f in my area recently so it is to be somewhat expected, however, i am fighting a cooling problem.

175k~ supposedly headgasket was replaced at 150k

91 4d56
td04 15t 30-40PSI
good aluminum 3 core radiator, clutch fan running and electric that kicks on at 190

Current tests, 160 tstat runs hotter, 180t runs hot but better, no stat runs cooler overall and cools down better
this is mostly flat ground, slight slope, gearing at 50mph is 1400rpm or so and 0-3psi. 70mph is 7-10psi at 2400rpm
runs cooler at 50mph, in OD at 1400, with OD off at 2200rpm it gets warmer..

I have a new water pump, have not installed it, with stat out you can see coolant flowing fast.
Im thinking maybe cracked head?

Oh, EGT at 50 is 0-400 depending on load
EGT at 70 400-800 depending on load
EGT is AFTER turbo about 2"

Meth injection running washer fluid, does not help at all no matter the settings

[skullzaflare]

I'm not expert on cooling at all. But isn't it weird that the 160 tstat runs hotter than the 180?

Anyhow, I would probably just keep the thermostat out for the rest of the summer.


Also, for your radiator - do you have a shroud to direct the flow of air to the fan?

I imagine that at higher speeds/ higher rpms, that the electric fan might actually be a restriction for the air being pulled by the mechanical fan.


I don't follow your reasoning of why you suspect a cracked head from the fact that coolant flows fast... (Or do you mean that coolant is exiting the system and moving to the environment, which yeah, would be a bit of a problem, lol.) Is there white steam coming out of the exhaust? Or is there foamy oil on the dipstick? Those are the symptoms I know about that indicate a cracked head.


I'm guessing that if you have a methanol injection system, you probably already know a lot more than I do about this stuff, but those are my suggestions.

I am not losing coolant, however when i had a cracked head on my G54 i did not lose any either. Yes there is a shroud on the clutch fan. The electric fan is a factory fan, the clutch fan is not lol.

My thought on the 160 is, once its warmed up, the stat stays open, and it is to much flow restriction for the coolant to cool off.
No steam or coolant loss, i am thinking i am pushing compression into the radiator maybe? i have not put a combustion gas checker on the rad yet

[MainstreaM]

Check your fan clutch.

[skullzaflare]

its new, already tried that lol

[pennyman1]

is the turbo water cooled? You could be pressurizing the coolant through the water jacket on the turbo

[skullzaflare]

is the turbo water cooled? You could be pressurizing the coolant through the water jacket on the turbo
this engine was oil cooled only, so the 15t i put on is also oil only

thinking about putting the factory 2 core copper radiator back in and see what happens

[skullzaflare]

mid 80s today, temps stayed at ~175 whole time except extended accel getting on interstate

[huff]

Oh that's good. So it' not fundamentally damaged, it just doesn't like the hot days. By the way: I don't think you ever told us what the coolant temps were on the 100+ days...


mid 80s today, temps stayed at ~175 whole time except extended accel getting on interstate

[skullzaflare]

Oh that's good. So it' not fundamentally damaged, it just doesn't like the hot days. By the way: I don't think you ever told us what the coolant temps were on the 100+ days...
90+ if i never boost, about 180, after boosting once, will hover around 200, work to 210, and occasionally keep going up to 230

[huff]

Like I said, I'm no expert, but I don't think 210 sounds too bad.

Water will boil at 212 at sea level, but in an enclosed, pressurized system, like a car cooling system, it increases. Antifreeze increases the boiling point even more.

looking at this page:
https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/techpapers/pressure-boiling-point.pdf

It shows that at 12psi, water will boil at 242 degrees F. and 50-50 coolant will boil at 259 F. (our radiator caps are actually at 13psi, so it's even above that).

most importantly, you need your coolant to stay liquid, so that it can flow and transfer heat away from the engine, and out through the radiator. As long as you are below the boiling point, you are still liquid, and you aren't in the "big trouble" zone.

So 230 might be getting a little hot for comfort, but should still be safe.





90+ if i never boost, about 180, after boosting once, will hover around 200, work to 210, and occasionally keep going up to 230

[skullzaflare]

problem solved. had a guy coming to buy parts. he was looking for a condenser, still had one on the diesel. Sold it to him. So we pulled everything off, removed the condenser, i put my good 14" electric on (kicked on at 200 where my tiny 12 backup was) also relocated transcooler from infront of intercooler, to between fan and oil cooler.

30 minute drive, took forever to hit 180. i went up the mountain and it held 210 climbing, when climb was done it didnt take long to go back to 180

[finalfighter]

the condenser on these trucks seem to block much needed airflow. after i installed the condenser on my truck i immediately noticed higher temps on my truck. it used to stay around 180 constant, now it hovers around 195~210. ive got a relay all wired up and will be installing an electric fan here soon. hoping that this brings the temps down. here in redding its regularly goes over 100F.

[skullzaflare]

the condenser on these trucks seem to block much needed airflow. after i installed the condenser on my truck i immediately noticed higher temps on my truck. it used to stay around 180 constant, now it hovers around 195~210. ive got a relay all wired up and will be installing an electric fan here soon. hoping that this brings the temps down. here in redding its regularly goes over 100F.
this is in my starion