well back @ it again with the run on problems

[jamesw]

ok guys here goes:
1988 dodge ram50 sport 2.6l with a Weber 32/36 DGEV Electric Choke :
17583
the factory carb was a piece of crap
after installing everything seemed to run great it was winter when it was installed
summer time came along temp started raising and the problems started so after reading on here that the manual gas pump may be causing to much pressure. so after some advise i picked up here i bought this:
17584
at first it seemed to help then the temp really set in weather wise and i started getting run on pretty bad it seemed no matter how i adjusted the carb it still ran on. so it got to bothering me that i didn't know how much fuel pressure i was pushing into the carb so i bought this last week
17585
got it in today ran out installed it and got a shock!!!!
according to the gauge there was no pressure
@ all i mean
none
needle did not move so i got to thinking maybe it was broke so i took the gauge shot some air threw it the needle jumped right up there like it was supposed to.
so now i,m @ a lose is the manual carb pushing less than a 1/2 pd of fuel ?
is that what is causing the run on?
what is my next move?
i have only had the truck up to 73 mph once for about a 1/4 mile
so where do i go from here?
is the gauge to much for this manual pump?
i really don't want to go with a elec pump if i can keep from it.
but if i do post some suggestion's on what kind of pump that will hold up to the weber carb.

[DroppedMitsu]

You most likely have a weber copy which has issues that cause problems like this. A more experienced member will be able to help you out a little better.

[pennyman1]

putting a regulator on an old manual fuel pump will kill the pump - been there done that. Run on comes from a float out of adjustment, damaged needle and seat from too high of fuel pressure, or advanced timing - low fuel pressure will not cause it.

[85Ram50]

putting a regulator on an old manual fuel pump will kill the pump - been there done that. Run on comes from a float out of adjustment, damaged needle and seat from too high of fuel pressure, or advanced timing - low fuel pressure will not cause it.

Is it the age of the pump that matters pennyman or is it just the manual pump that is the issue?
Anyway jamesw don't put too much stock in that gauge reading. It is 0-140 so the accuracy may be within the 3PSI that the fuel pressure regulator comes set at stock. If the accuracy range is 0-5psi you won't get a reliable reading of any pressure below that.

The dieseling issue was caused by too much fuel in the bowl for me. I also have a manual fuel pump, it is new. Make sure you have the return to tank line connected properly a previous owner had that and the vent crossed on mine.
Every time I took the carb off there was a gas puddle in the manifold. I did a rebuild with help on here "weber carb help" thread and found my jets weren't in the right places (I had to get a magnifying glass to read them) and reset the float. That along with the addition of the same fuel pressure regulator stopped the issue. It has only once threatened to diesel since I did it. That was because I was really gassing it just before I came to a stop and shut off. I am also dealing with the fact that all gas in Oregon has ethanol in it. They just didn't make motors for e10 in the 80's.
Here is that link http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/5615-Weber-carb-help

(http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/5615-Weber-carb-help)

[pennyman1]

The back pressure on the pump from the regulator will kill the manual pump - a new pump may run for a while, but will fail from it unless the regulator sends the excess pressure back to the tank like the one you used. Gauge accuracy is not the whole range of a mechanical gauge pressure rating. For an accurate pressure reading, you need to be in the 25 - 75% of the gauge range for it to be accurate - for 3 PSI, a 10 PSI gauge would be best, but hard to find - 15 PSI is more common. Electronic gauges are not limited into that range restriction for accuracy - the mechanical gauges are limited by the deflection of the component that moves the needle (bourdon tube).

[jamesw]

well after messing with the run on issues i think i have finally figured out what the problem is the weber is getting hot from the heat of the water running threw the intake and the heat of the engine also the heat of the day. so i got a hood scoop and installed it on the truck and low and behold no more run-on plus the bright side is it looks cool lol 1761217613

[geezer101]

This is unfortunately one of the drawbacks of using a Weber without a sealed air intake. The under hood temperatures aren't good for a carb like the Weber (or any other carb for that matter) - if you can rig up a cold air intake directly to it you'll make gains all round and it will fix issues like the ones you've experienced.
Nice job with the problem solving! :thumbup:

[jamesw]

Nice job with the problem solving! :thumbup:
thank you sir that makes me feel good about doing it now lol you made my day

[jamesw]

check this out i might try this little setup
http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/alpinadgv/alpinadgv.html

(http://www.zeebuck.com/bimmers/tech/alpinadgv/alpinadgv.html)

[pennyman1]

that is a joke - no one in their right mind would do that or spend the amounts of money he "spent"

[geezer101]

...a freaking biscuit tin, some 100mm superflex household air ducting and an eBay shite-o-rama pod filter. Yours for $10 + $738.00 postage! Yes it is a joke but if this tool put just a little more thought into it (and a few bucks wouldn't have hurt either) this would've been a reasonable set up.

This is a better start - http://www.webcon.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=8939

Add some ducting, a remote air box and an intake that points straight into some cool air and you've got a solid set up :thumbup:

[jamesw]

credit card goes back in wallet *snicker* you guys are a buzz kill lol

[geezer101]

credit card goes back in wallet *snicker* you guys are a buzz kill lol

Always glad to be of service :P

[85Ram50]

Where's the like button when you need it? :) That is a hilarious yet imaginative and apparently functional cool air intake. Wonder if my empty tin of dutch butter cookies and a dryer vent hose would work?

[jamesw]

Where's the like button when you need it? :) That is a hilarious yet imaginative and apparently functional cool air intake. Wonder if my empty tin of dutch butter cookies and a dryer vent hose would work?
lol @ 85ram50 :swerve:

[jamesw]

Always glad to be of service :P
what a friend you are indeed lol :beavisbutthead: