new here ... couple questions for a future diesel purchase

[waterman74]

Hello,

I'm new here, but I've been looking around some. I would really like to find one of these old diesel trucks, and I'd like to get a heads up on what to watch out for during an inspection. Any tips on things to look for, and watch out for would be greatly appreciated. I did find a parts truck (1983) that is complete, the guy says it just " lost fuel" and he parked it, been sitting for 20 years. I'm assuming fuel pump? I've asked for pictures, but have yet to receive them. He wants a $1000. I was thinking if I could talk him down to $5-600 I 'd buy it for parts for my hopefully running future purchase. Any thoughts on that price?

Thanks,
WM74

[skullzaflare]

if fuel cut solenoid (back of injection pump) dies or loses power it wont start.
If he ran it out of fuel, you will need to bleed the lines.

OR the injection pump could have failed.

[Uncle Spence]

I bought a similar truck from a farmer in Idaho. It was the diesel, was four-wheel drive and had been sitting in a field for about 5 years. He had a newly rebuilt injection pump and after a little bit of tuning it ran just fine. I paid $900 for it. I put about $500 into it. I drove it around in the mountains for a hunting season and then sold it to a kid in Utah. It was originally intended as a parts truck for my truck, but ran so well that I couldn't justify keeping it just to have it sit.
If the truck doesn't run it's sort of a gamble. Down time for any vehicle is what slowly kills them, and these trucks are no exception. So my first advice would be find a truck that runs. It's much easier to assess the health of a potential buy if you can drive it first. However, that will increase its value automatically. Try and talk him down and get the truck going. Once it's running test the compression and do a good tune-up all around.
Also keep in mind that our advice is only worth as much as you pay for it.

[waterman74]

Ok thanks for the advice. I just donated $10. I still have not received pics of the parts truck. I have found a running truck, everything seems good, but is has some rust on the rocker panels. I'm waiting on better pics of that. It's across the country, so I'd have to buy it sight unseen so to speak.

[skullzaflare]

What state is it in? You may be able to find a member here to take a look at it for you

[waterman74]

I'd rather not say, theseseem to be well sought after vehicles

[skullzaflare]

I don't blame you, far more than I would spend on an unknown. I wouldn't think anyone would try and snatch it but never know

[Uncle Spence]

If it's in the Midwestish I might be able to take a look. Send me a PM if it's near Nebraska. I am not in a position to put money into another truck seeing that I'm still putting mine back together before we move in December.

[waterman74]

No, it's too far for you... thanks though!

[waterman74]

Well, I got my truck the other day. Some things I've noticed..... Even though I'm in FL and it's in the upper 60's at night, the truck starts pretty rough with some white smoke. This goes away after a couple of minutes and will start right up after that. Engine has a lot of oil on it ( lower and sides and it does leak a coupe drops over night, but maybe is normal for a old diesel? It has the 4D56 head and all the belts are new. It has a pyro and boost gauge, but the boost gauge isn't working right now. So far I'm pleased and it seems to get great gas milage. Should I be concerned about the oil leak and grey/white smoke on start up?

Thanks!17889

178901789117892

[waterman74]

17893

[skullzaflare]

Sounds like you need a new set of glow plugs or you have a famous cracked head, keep an eye on coolant level

[waterman74]

Ok I'll check that. Oil seems fine with no sign of coolant. If it was the head, wouldn't it have whitish smoke all the time? I got almost no smoke and it's blackish/dark grey after warm up. What is the proper start up procedure? I have been pushing the glow plug button for about 10 seconds or so giving the throttle a few pumps and pulling the choke. Maybe I could try something different. Does anyone have a link for a pdf manual on the 4555/56? I have a shop manual for the truck, but it doesn't cover the engine.

On a side note. I do not plan up doing any performance upgrades or trying to max the output of the little diesel. This truck is strictly going to be used for a commute to my pasture to check on cows and do some light duty hauling, etc.... I just want to maximize the life and MPG of the truck.

Thanks!

[Uncle Spence]

In regards to start up procedure that all depends on how it has been modified. Mine I don't push for longer than 5 seconds or else my glow plugs will burn up. These aren't carbureted so pumping the throttle and pulling the choke isn't really how it works. What you call the "choke" is just a throttle lock so you can maintain a higher rpm. Not starve it of oxygen. I've owned two of the diesels and they both had their own quirks to get started. Just learn the personality of your truck.
For the smoking, it's a 30 year old diesel. Most diesel engines that have 20 years behind them will smoke white at the beginning. My experience with large diesel motors has just been that it takes a bit for things to warm up and for the rings to not let as much oil sneak by. If it's a constant thing then I'd be a little more concerned.
The manuals can be found if you go to the forum page and then scroll down to the Resource Center and then following the Manuals and Other Source Info link. Pdf manuals can be found there. Or you can also purchase them on ebay for reasonable prices.

[skullzaflare]

Ok I'll check that. Oil seems fine with no sign of coolant. If it was the head, wouldn't it have whitish smoke all the time? I got almost no smoke and it's blackish/dark grey after warm up. What is the proper start up procedure? I have been pushing the glow plug button for about 10 seconds or so giving the throttle a few pumps and pulling the choke. Maybe I could try something different. Does anyone have a link for a pdf manual on the 4555/56? I have a shop manual for the truck, but it doesn't cover the engine.

On a side note. I do not plan up doing any performance upgrades or trying to max the output of the little diesel. This truck is strictly going to be used for a commute to my pasture to check on cows and do some light duty hauling, etc.... I just want to maximize the life and MPG of the truck.

Thanks!

Is the push button factory? I have a button on 11v plugs so i have to hold it around 10 seconds when its really cold. If those are 6v then they hold 12v for a few seconds before dropping to 6 for a fast warm up.

Watch this, this was when i had atleast one weak plug
https://youtu.be/tIKFYZ620Ns

Regarding head, not really, tend to crack between the valves, so you will slowly burn coolant and pressurize the coolant system.

Also, since you already got the truck, what state was it in?

[waterman74]

Thanks for the replies.The smoke only lasts for about 30 seconds after start up. It is more grey than white , I'll try to post a youtube video. The glow plug button looks to be aftermarket, so I really have no details on what voltage it has. Checked the coolant level and its the same as it was 200 miles ago, but I'll keep an eye on it. The oil is nice and black with no signs of coolant. The truck came from Washington state.

Thanks!

[waterman74]

Recorded these this morning... temp about 72.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFqeviL_-WE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGip-JZV5lo

[skullzaflare]

yea glowplugs aint working to well, sounds like 1 doesnt work at all

Also you should have a bar connecting all 4 lol.

[frankwrench]

Based on the first video you linked, I agree with skullzaflare on the glow plug assessment.They're relatively easy to remove, cost about $20 a piece to replace. My 1984 4D55 had trouble with cold-starts when I first got it and the business-end of the glow plugs were blackened out like charcoal.Using a multimeter you can also test the resistance between the terminal and the body of the glow plug, which should be between 0.1 (ideal) and 0.2 (max) Ohms.Also, from your first video it looks like the glow plugs aren't connected via a conductive metal bar but rather are wired serially? If that's the case, you might have a fault in that serial circuit somewhere.

[waterman74]

Wow.. Thanks for the info guys... Just a little more info on the glow plugs. I have read some stories of some with different voltages, and some being hard to remove,etc..... Any advice on this or a link to the recommended model of Glow Plugs. Any more info on the connecting bar would be great too. Is that something I can order online or I'm I going to have to get lucky?.... I'll see if I can do some testing. In the meantime, is it going to hurt the truck to drive it like it is with this glow plug issue? I have usually been letting it warm up at least 5 minutes.

Thanks Again

[frankwrench]

I bought my glow plugs from O'Reilly: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/NGK0/2161/02793.oapHad them installed for the past few months, no issues. Not sure about the connecting bar, car-part.com or rockauto.com might be of some utility there.As for driving with the under-performing glow plugs, I wouldn't worry about it. Once the engine warms up, they're no longer a factor.In my truck the glow plug relay "pops" after the thermostat reaches a certain temperature and if you shut down and restart at that point, there would be enough ambient temperature in the block to avoid needing the glow plugs on a subsequent start.

[skullzaflare]

I bought NGK plugs at carquest, as seen here http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/5008-Glow-plug-replacements!

I am still running the same set (i bought 12 just in case)
I am directly wired off a relay from the battery, no drop down resistor.
My plugs came out easy, hopefully none of yours are swollen up

[waterman74]

ok thanks a ton for the info guys. I'm sure I'll have more questions in the future

[Clouse]

Nice looking truck. I'd also agree, sounds like a glow plug issue.

I purchased these plugs for my 4d55. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-NGK-Glow-Plug-Y-115T1-Y115T1-2189-/231372722959
They are nearly identical to the stock plugs, but are 12v rather than 6v. Unfortunately you have to wait for them to come from the UK.

[2brandonb]

i have the diesel shop manual I am getting it converted to .pdf I will share when it is complete.

[waterman74]

Ok, thanks that'll be great!

[waterman74]

i have the diesel shop manual I am getting it converted to .pdf I will share when it is complete.

did you ever get this done?