Stock Air cleaner mod to Weber carb

[85Ram50]

This is still a work in progress but you can see it can be done.

I am not a pro just making due with what I have because I hate being overcharged. :)

Stock Air cleaner mod to Weber carb
I put the air cleaner over the spot where it goes and did my best to mark the correct orientation of the carb cutout and marked it inside with silver sharpie.
I ground cuts into the circular part that extends out the bottom. Slice it like a pie down to where it flares to level with the flat bottom. More cuts = easier bending.
Then I bent each piece down trying to straighten the lip. It occurs to me that if you have a good cutting wheel you could cut this lip off first. I had a general idea of what to cut off and did with tin snips and the grinder. I hammered the body of it as flat as I could with a 16oz ball peen on a 2X10 board. It is a process and even when you are done it won’t be flat.
Then I held it over the carb to make a better marking for the shaped cutout. I got close and set in top. It became clear I would need a spacer. I was going to get a piece of alum cut but it would have been as much as a new carb. I found some cork tile at Joann Fabrics and it will do the trick. 17860 17861

At this point I am close I got the shaped hole cut open to allow the air cleaner body to set on its mounts and sit on the carb with two spacers. I probably need to use the other two spacers I have left. I will need to get longer bolts for mounting this securely to the carb. I am going to use JB Weld to plug those two holes in the pan and fix up my cut out. Then a short bolt to plug that threaded hole. When I get there if I can’t get the holes for the mounting bolts cut in the cleaner pan just right I will probably use the Weber air cleaner bottom mount plate to secure the air cleaner by sandwiching it. Might use it anyway. 17862 17863

Turns out the accelerator cable mount is in the way. !!?? How can that be? I have it off in the pics.
It is mounted on the piece that I guess was OE on top of the valve cover with both cover bolts through it. It looks like I will have to get a new longer cable to push through the housing and mount the anchor point in a different hole on the valve cover.
Any ideas there would help.

[geezer101]

Nice stealth install. You come up with a solution to the top cover wing nut issue?

[85Ram50]

There are 4 clamps on it that I was hoping would do that job Geezer. Am I mistaken?

[haruman]

The 4 clamps just hold the air cleaner cover to the air cleaner body. You need the bolt / wingnut to hold the whole assembly to the carb.

Edit: I see your air cleaner bolts to the cover. Interesting.

[85Ram50]

The 4 clamps just hold the air cleaner cover to the air cleaner body. You need the bolt / wingnut to hold the whole assembly to the carb. Edit: I see your air cleaner bolts to the cover. Interesting. The metal piece in the second pic shows the current bottom plate of the rectangular air cleaner which bolts directly to the carb. I intend to use those bolt holes to secure the cleaner to the carb and make sure there are no air leaks around it. I may use that plate to sandwich the bottom pan just to be sure there are no air leaks.

[geezer101]

The top of the Weber fuel bowl cover/throat inlet has 4 threaded holes so unless you've already drilled holes through the modified air cleaner box and screwed the 2 components together, you will need to do that (I can't see any screws in the pic but that might just be me). They will need to have decent washers under the screw heads as well or they'll eventually stretch the metal and pull through it. This will also clamp the air cleaner down onto your new seal and prevent air leaks. I'll be doing something similar when I can get back to my truck, but I'm using an oval air box from a different G63B engine. Trying to find the original round one was nigh on impossible :rolleyes:

[85Ram50]

Yea, this is not complete yet its just where I am right now.

[85Ram50]

I'm pretty close just waiting for stuff to dry. I used some gasket maker to glue the 3 pieces of cork together. Once I got it all fit I used a good knife (we call it a rubber knife in the insulation trade) and using a square cut the sides to square. I have coated the whole thing in that gasket materiel and am letting it dry while also waiting for the JB Weld to fully cure. That gasket stuff will give the cork some strength and prevent it from sucking air between the tiles and let the bottom of the cleaner pan seal to it. I got new bolts of the same size as that faccacta (SP?) air cleaner but 1 1/4" long. They are 6 or 8 X 1.25 EDIT I'm pretty sure the 1.25 is the thread pitch not the length I figured out that I can leave the throttle cable in its place after I had it mounted and screwed down tight to the top of the carb by actually attaching it while the air cleaner was bolted down. It rubs so if anyone has ideas or knows the right way for it to be run let me know please.

[jamesw]

like the ideal 85ram50 i might try doing something like that to mine worse case is it doesn't work right?

[85Ram50]

Done.
I had to modify a couple of the bolt holes in the OE cleaner pan. I'm sure you guys will be more accurate than I was in placing them to begin with. Maybe use the gasket from bottom plate of the old square one as guide? I figured out the throttle cable, rotate that mount bracket between the valve cover bolts 180 both ways and eliminate the riser. 17867 17868
This resulted in having to shorten the cable :).

I placed the spacer on it fits, snug. Set the OE cleaner pan on it and then used the gasket from under the bottom pan to trace and cut out the bottom pan from the square air cleaner being replaced. Put it over (the silver part) the top of the OE cleaner pan and put the bolts through. 17869 17871
The hose for the valve cover goes where I thought it would and I have no idea what used to accept that other hose I'm sure it is emissions stuff. Maybe I'll replace it when I rebuild this gas hog.

I don't have the filters for it yet but it started right up and I have nothing but high hopes :). 17870

Edit
For the cut out if you notice it was pretty awful looking in my first few pics. I fixed that and the overlapping cuts with JB Weld. After I had set it on to see that it would work with the spacers I put masking tape over the bad cut on the inside while it was still in place so that the tape was up close where I wanted the cut to be. That tape acted as backing for the first light coat of JB Weld. It hardens in 6 minutes or so and cures in a few hours. When it was hard enough I removed the tape and put some on from the other side. I used this to do the holes and cuts I wanted to seal. I never used it before and its a lot like bondo. It has the added benefit of acting like self leveling compound and it forms a high smooth sheen about a minute after you stop working it. It also shapes easily with a file.

[geezer101]

The filter box is a bit distorted next to the carb throat but you might be able to build it up with some kind of adhesive seal. If it doesn't hold up I would use what you've already done as a template and cut out a sheet of alu plate and pop rivet the new adapter plate to to underside of the air cleaner box. You will always get away with something rough when no-one can see it. Other than the centre retaining bolt hole now being deleted, anyone would think it's stock. I think you did well for a first go. :clap1:

[85Ram50]

I couldn't really get it hammered out flat so your idea wouldn't work right now. If I ever get my shop set up and build a steel table I might go at it again. Seems like a little heat and a bigger hammer would solve any problem :)

[pennyman1]

thought I posted this adaptor before for a Toyota but this is the same idea: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-cj5-cj7-yj-weber-adapter-factory-air-cleaner-/142158226149?hash=item21194a62e5:g:250AAOSwm0JYDPB c&vxp=mtr . the Toyota one is this part:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Carburetor-Stock-Air-Cleaner-Adapter-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-2F-32-36-38-38-/361654497218?hash=item543449afc2:g:pIAAAOSwZVlXkRc P&vxp=mtr . This will let you use the air cleaner as is.

[jamesw]

thought I posted this adaptor before for a Toyota but this is the same idea: part:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Carburetor-Stock-Air-Cleaner-Adapter-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-2F-32-36-38-38-/361654497218?hash=item543449afc2:g:pIAAAOSwZVlXkRc P&vxp=mtr . This will let you use the air cleaner as is.
will this work for the 2.6l with the 32/36 DFEV elec choke weber carb? or do you know? i still have my stock air cleaner and would like to use it but didn't want to have to redesign it to make it work.

[85Ram50]

thought I posted this adaptor before for a Toyota but this is the same idea: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-cj5-cj7-yj-weber-adapter-factory-air-cleaner-/142158226149?hash=item21194a62e5:g:250AAOSwm0JYDPB c&vxp=mtr . the Toyota one is this part:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-Carburetor-Stock-Air-Cleaner-Adapter-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-2F-32-36-38-38-/361654497218?hash=item543449afc2:g:pIAAAOSwZVlXkRc P&vxp=mtr . This will let you use the air cleaner as is.

If only I knew before I cut it up.

[jamesw]

If only I knew before I cut it up.
thats why i,m asking before i screw mine up lol

[pennyman1]

it will work on the 32/36 and 38 dges webers

[jamesw]

it will work on the 32/36 and 38 dges webers
thanks pennyman1 :thumbup:

[85Ram50]

The filters came in and that Fram number CA6594 is a perfect fit for the breather filter.

[pennyman1]

Great to hear. If you run into problems with getting your modded air cleaner to seal properly, I have a spare air cleaner assembly you can have - just pay shipping.

[85Ram50]

:thumbup:

[Scotty G]

Fantastic! This is exactly what I'm hoping to do to mine! Thanks for the great info, folks!