My 4d55 performance build

[vanderchevy18]

Hey all! I am new to the site and am looking for some feedback.

I have a 1987 Mazda B2600 that recently received a 4D55 in great mechanical condition. Everything including the injection pump has been rebuilt. I am currently turning the wick up on it.

Mods so far: cone filter intake, 3" exhaust to 4" stack, gutted boost reference fueling valve, ground collar on full fueling screw with it turned up to max, and all the appropriate gauges.

Currently I am in the middle of building a custom header/exhaust manifold to run a T3/T4 turbo. I also have an intercooler to plumb in. After that gets done I'll see about adding more fuel.

Mechanical issues right now: Really my only problem right now is that the glow plugs have blown. I have them on a 12v push button. Just ordered some new ones. Anybody have any insight??

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/Mazda/2011-08-24_13-51-09_851.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/Mazda/2011-09-05_11-06-09_133.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/Mazda/2011-09-05_11-06-48_867.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2011-09-15_16-12-52_903.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2011-09-22_16-17-53_140.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2011-09-22_19-00-42_130.jpg

I'll post pics of the header and turbo setup once its done. Any questions, advise, or suggestions appreciated!

[pennyman1]

Do you know what year the motor is? The glow plugs in these motors are 6vdc not 12v; hopefully they didn't swell up and jam in the holes. Look at the injectors where they screw into the head; are they bolted flush to the head, or do they have a gap between the hex and the head?

[vanderchevy18]

I can't remember the exact year. I want to say its like an 86?? I'll look but I think there is a gap. I got the glow plugs out. They weren't too terribly swollen. Do they make a 12v plug that will fit?

This isn't my first diesel. Just my first 4D55. I actually do 7.3l Powerstroke performance. In fact I will be in the November issue of Diesel Power Magazine. :D (Sorry. Pretty excited about it. Lol!)

[pennyman1]

There are 12 v glow plugs that fit the 4d55 - check in the threads for diesel and in the archives for which ones work. Congrats on the article in Diesel power - maybe the next one will be on your Mazda 4d55.

[vanderchevy18]

I have a set of 12v plugs on order. I found one in the thread a couple below this one.

Thanks!

[mikewarme]

Good luck, I almost guarentee you will blow this engine. These only hold out with lower RPM's. Especially on a 30 year old engine never having been rebuilt.

[vanderchevy18]

Actually yes is has been rebuilt. And I guess we will see. I don't doubt it. I'm going to blow my Powerstroke too. That's what happens when you go trying to get all the power you can from a stock block. When it does I'll grab the spare, build it stronger, and go for more. That's life in the performance diesel world. Just thought you might find it interesting to see what happens. If you don't like it I can always go back to powerstrokenation.com and post it only there. Thought maybe if you guys had some experience with it I wouldn't have to learn everything the hard way. Its cool though. I don't mind. Thanks for wishing me luck!

[camoit]

Actually yes is has been rebuilt. And I guess we will see. I don't doubt it. I'm going to blow my Powerstroke too. That's what happens when you go trying to get all the power you can from a stock block. When it does I'll grab the spare, build it stronger, and go for more. That's life in the performance diesel world. Just thought you might find it interesting to see what happens. If you don't like it I can always go back to powerstrokenation.com and post it only there. Thought maybe if you guys had some experience with it I wouldn't have to learn everything the hard way. Its cool though. I don't mind. Thanks for wishing me luck!

We need guys that are willing to try something other then stock. We don't realy have a resident Diesel performance guy. Please let us know what you do, along with pictures. Thats how we find out what works and how to do it. I remember in UTI we had a diesel GM v8. One of the early diesels, we put a turbo off of a Detroit 8v92 on to it. The pump was machined out to over fuel by 110% @72PSI of boost. It stretched the head studs. So then they lowered the boost and compression and got it to run in the low 7's. Man that thing would pump out the black smoke for the first 1/4 of the track then nothing but heat waves and flame.
I would add in some studs just to keep top on. But try not to over boost it, to much. Of course balance the crank and rods. Clean up the intake and exhaust ports. If you can find better rods go for it. A lighter flywheel will make it accelerate faster. Get the machine shop to shave off some weight. Yes it's harder on the trany but there at the wreaking yards.
I forget how many HP the diesel is. something like 97, or 105 stock. Any tricks you let us know. Things like changing out the injector springs to XXX type.
I can give you phone numbers to people that might know what parts are interchangeable with other engines and where to find them.

[vanderchevy18]

I was thinking about going with ARP studs here soon. I don't know how far the stock ones will hold though. I've heard there is no need for them but we will see. Its not about boost though. Whether you're at 5psi or 50psi. There is absolutely no connection between boost and blowing head gaskets. Its all about cylinder pressures. Cylinder pressure is directly related to torque produced. Stock I believe was like 86hp/175tq. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please because I'm not real sure. Either way, 200ftlbs of torque isn't much. Especially since the surface area of the head compared to the clamping surface of the head bolts is very small compared to the Powerstroke, cummins, etc.

As for balancing the rotating assembly.... I may if I rebuild it again. From what little info i have come across, the stock assembly was actually very well balanced. Especially considering the era the motor was built. Balancing is usually to help with higher revving of the engine. This thing already screams so I will try to keep it within stock rev territory.

I will see what I can do on rods. Nobody has ever taken them to their limit so nobody knows what they will hold. I know a Powerstroke rod is 1200ftlbs of torque on stock forged rods. I am there with mine. (Hence the comment about me blowing mine up some time) I will have some built by Carillo if I can find the breaking point without windowing the block. Highly unlikely though so I'll just have to figure it out and then go rebuild another block.



Nate Bailor of Unlimited Diesel Performance had been my guide so far. He's a great guy to work with. He had like an 84 ranger with the 4d55 that he maxed out like I am. Only instead if a large single he used the stock charger in a compound setup. Also the pump is a little different. He never had studs or anything. Stock motor. I think he even had the 4d55 head. I have a 4d56 roller rocker. His pump was maxed out both in fueling and timing. He sold his a few years back and from his knowledge its still running.

We'll see what happens. 4d55 performance seems to be very muddy waters.

[4D55 Performance]

I disagree, we have several people who are members on this forum who have been pushing the performance envelope on the 4d55 for several years now. For the most part all have destroyed there engines because they do not understand how to correctly modify an indirect injection diesel. I think I am the only one left with a highly modified, high output 4d55 and that's in large part to Mike Warme, extensive research, and my local diesel performance shop. I recommend that you do your homework, because these trucks are not a 6BT Cummins or Power Stroke. The 4d55 engine is an indirect injection, the 4d55 will react much more like a, high strung, GM 6.5L turbo diesel when you try to modify it. Personally I don't see the point of adding all these mix and match parts when you can add performance parts that are made for these engines from Mitsubishi. Performance turbos, heads, injection pumps and intercooler setups can be had through Mitsubishi or from the junk yard. The trick to getting the most out a 4d55 is keeping it as cool as possible.

Personally I don't think ARP studs will help, these motors have plenty on head bolts. One idea that has not been tried, that may be worth a try is lowering the compression ratio from 21:1 to about 18:1. This would help reduce the engine temps. This could be accomplished by shaving the pistons or possibly trying the flush valve 4d55 head. I wish I knew if the flush valve head would work on our motors, but I am unsure at this time.

On the bright side, unlike all other diesel engines produced during the 80's, the 4d55 was designed to be a turbo charged diesel. So you have started with the right engine if plan to modify a little oil burner. The other 10 diesel engines offered in compact pickups during the 80's were designed as naturally aspirated diesels. Many manufactures like Isuzu and Toyota changed the manifolds and added turbo chargers to there NA diesels which led to head, piston, valve and rod failures in 80 hp stock form. The rods in the 4d55 should be good for 200-300hp. Here are the 10 other motors used in compact pickups during the 80's.

Isuzu 223, Isuzu 223t, Perkins 4.135, Nissan sd22, Nissan sd25, Nissan sd33t, Renault JS8, Toyota 1L, Toyota 2L, Toyota 2LT

[vanderchevy18]

I have actually read your build posts quite a few times for info. I appreciate you chiming in!

Kinda what I figured on the headstuds. It makes me feel better that you agree! Also its awesome what you're saying about the rods!

To keep temps down I'm thinking the intercooler, a larger radiator with dual electric fans, and possibly water injection should do a lot to help. What do you think?

On the turbo- I had this t3/t4 turbo and the means to do a very nice induction system. The goal is to get the right amount of air in with the least back pressure. When an engine is being pushed, the drive pressure (boost vs back pressure) plays a lot into keeping the engine together. I am creating an induction system that will give me the air I need while keeping drive pressures at 1:1. Just because its a larger turbo, that doesn't mean its going to blow the engine. You can have all the air in the world, but if the fuel isn't there, its pointless. My stock turbo was junk and this turbo will keep the drive pressures low being appropriately wastegated.

[4D55 Performance]

I was thinking about going with ARP studs here soon. I don't know how far the stock ones will hold though. I've heard there is no need for them but we will see. Its not about boost though. Whether you're at 5psi or 50psi. There is absolutely no connection between boost and blowing head gaskets. Its all about cylinder pressures. Cylinder pressure is directly related to torque produced. Stock I believe was like 86hp/175tq. Someone correct me if I'm wrong please because I'm not real sure. Either way, 200ftlbs of torque isn't much. Especially since the surface area of the head compared to the clamping surface of the head bolts is very small compared to the Powerstroke, cummins, etc.

As for balancing the rotating assembly.... I may if I rebuild it again. From what little info i have come across, the stock assembly was actually very well balanced. Especially considering the era the motor was built. Balancing is usually to help with higher revving of the engine. This thing already screams so I will try to keep it within stock rev territory.

I will see what I can do on rods. Nobody has ever taken them to their limit so nobody knows what they will hold. I know a Powerstroke rod is 1200ftlbs of torque on stock forged rods. I am there with mine. (Hence the comment about me blowing mine up some time) I will have some built by Carillo if I can find the breaking point without windowing the block. Highly unlikely though so I'll just have to figure it out and then go rebuild another block.



Nate Bailor of Unlimited Diesel Performance had been my guide so far. He's a great guy to work with. He had like an 84 ranger with the 4d55 that he maxed out like I am. Only instead if a large single he used the stock charger in a compound setup. Also the pump is a little different. He never had studs or anything. Stock motor. I think he even had the 4d55 head. I have a 4d56 roller rocker. His pump was maxed out both in fueling and timing. He sold his a few years back and from his knowledge its still running.

We'll see what happens. 4d55 performance seems to be very muddy waters.

I will try answer a few of your questions,

1983 80hp 125ft lbs of torque and 12 psi of boost
1984-85 84hp, 136 ft of torque and 13 psi of boost

In 1983 at 80hp, the 2wd Mitsubishi pickup equipped with the 4d55 was the fastest production pickup sold in the United States. This included all the domestic fullsize pickups. The 4d55 engine should have no issues moving these little trucks.

Team Tonni has pushed the 4d55 motor to it's very limits and the rods give out at 200-300hp or 400ft lbs of torque.

Team Tonni used the original headbolts and they pushed 400ft lbs or torque in there Galant race car.

The 1983 injection pumps can can be modified to increase fueling. The injectors can also be modified to increase fueling.

Several have tried compound turbo setups, but I dont think it is necessary. Team Tonni ran a single turbo and they made gobs of torque.

[vanderchevy18]

We need to figure something out on lowering the compression. Where to I find the flush valve head? I may try that.

[4D55 Performance]

I have actually read your build posts quite a few times for info. I appreciate you chiming in!

Kinda what I figured on the headstuds. It makes me feel better that you agree! Also its awesome what you're saying about the rods!

To keep temps down I'm thinking the intercooler, a larger radiator with dual electric fans, and possibly water injection should do a lot to help. What do you think?

On the turbo- I had this t3/t4 turbo and the means to do a very nice induction system. The goal is to get the right amount of air in with the least back pressure. When an engine is being pushed, the drive pressure (boost vs back pressure) plays a lot into keeping the engine together. I am creating an induction system that will give me the air I need while keeping drive pressures at 1:1. Just because its a larger turbo, that doesn't mean its going to blow the engine. You can have all the air in the world, but if the fuel isn't there, its pointless. My stock turbo was junk and this turbo will keep the drive pressures low being appropriately wastegated.

You need to get a 1983 injection pump and increase the plunger size to 12mm.

[4D55 Performance]

We need to figure something out on lowering the compression. Where to I find the flush valve head? I may try that.

Look for a 4d56 head from a Mitsubishi Animal. They are available through ebay.uk

I would ask the guys on the Pocuk forum if they know if the Animal head will fit our 4d55 engines.

[vanderchevy18]

Ok. Do you know how far the stock pump will go by chance? It kinda sucks then because I just paid $875 to have this one rebuilt.

[vanderchevy18]

Pocuk forum..... Ok. I'll see what I can find. Thanks!

[4D55 Performance]

Ok. Do you know how far the stock pump will go by chance? It kinda sucks then because I just paid $875 to have this one rebuilt.

With a 12mm plunger the stock pump will make 400-500ft lbs of torque as long as you hone the injectors as well.

[vanderchevy18]

Ok. I think the game plan will possibly be to get as much out of the stock pump right now. Then figure out what I'm going to do to lower the compression. Once I get that done I'll add more fuel with a massaged 83 pump and honed injectors.

[4D55 Performance]

I think the biggest issue you will start running into is figuring out how to prevent the tranny and clutch from failing when you try to put the power to the wheels.

[vanderchevy18]

I knew i would have to do something. What is your suggestion on the clutch?

[camoit]

Your local clutch shop should know where or have the ability to get one built for you. All they need is the disk and they should be able to get one from there. If not I know that Capitol Clutch and brake in West Sacramento can help you out. Or point you in the correct direction. Here is the one they made for me.

1344

[4D55 Performance]

I have had good success with the Centerforce II clutches.

[vanderchevy18]

Ok. Well I'll get my turbo and manifold done. Then I'll start looking at the rest of the stuff.

Here's a list of stuff I am going to do in order. Let me know what you think.

12v glow plugs
Turbo, intercooler, and manifold
Clutch
Lower compression
Modify fuel pump to 12mm plunger
Water injection
Hone injectors

I am trying to find a 4d56 flush valve head(after I find out if it fits). If not I'll modify a new set of pistons.

[camoit]

How about Propane injection. It's like Nitrous to a diesel. At least thats what I've herd.

[vanderchevy18]

Please don't take this personally. I understand that's what you've heard.....But... That is the most retarded thing I have ever heard. Nitrous is like nitrous for diesels. Propane is the short cut to a pretty window in your block. Sure its nice to be able to check your oil at a glance, but it makes it hard to run the engine. Unfortunately you're not the first person to say that. I've heard it many times before. Allow me to explain.

Nitrous is basically turbo in a bottle. You're adding oxygen to aid in complete combustion. Just like a turbo, you can only get power from it if there is fuel that isn't being burned.

Propane is entirely different. Propane is a fuel. Just like diesel. Propane systems work by sending propane through a constant flow regulator into the intake. This fogs the air being brought in with vaporized propane/fuel. The more sophisticated systems us an electric solenoid to add more as the rpms and boost increase.

As stated, propane is a fuel. A fuel which has a much higher flash point than diesel and a higher expansion rate. Now fuel is injected into an engine at an exact moment. That's what we all know is timing. Inject too early and you have un atomized fuel being compressed and going off at or before top dead center. Resulting in a windowed block. Same goes for too much timing. Now. Why on Gods green earth would you inject a fuel that spikes cylinder pressures to an unsafe level without controlling when the fuel is injected? People do it. Some get lucky and it lasts a little while longer than others. Eventually though it'll bite em.


Sorry for the rant. Lol!

[camoit]

Ya it was all the rage for some time in the late 90s. I never saw one on a truck or weather they lowered compression IDK. Water makes for a nice expansion. Expands 27 times it's size when turned to steam. I have finally seen up close the water injection systems on the brakes of the semi race trucks to cool the brake shoes. It's pretty basic. a sprayer on the end of a tube with a relay valve and a tank charged by the air system. Now nitrous drops the intake air temperature to make for as dense of a molecule as possible. We ran nitrous on the UTI diesel drag car for some time. If I remember correctly it was running something like -143 degrees air temperature into the heads after the turbo. But that was 20 years ago and there has been so many advances in engines. I wish that Cat never stopped the development of the cam less engine. It would have made for a leap forward in adjustably on smaller engines when it trickled down. The problem they had was to keep the valves opening the same amount through the change of temperatures. Made for stability problems. I have a phone interview meeting with Cat, Cummings, and Detroit coming up on the 14th. They are looking for input on up coming engine designs. They pay us for the time we spend on the phone with them. It's on Medium to heavy truck and off road equipment engines. They want feed back on the new engines. They could be good engines but the emission restriction burn them out and over heat them in 5 years. I have seen so many of my competitors trucks sitting in the shop for warranty repair. That costs money, so no thank you on the newest stuff. I'll stick with the 500 HP Cat 3406 B & E series engines. They just keep on pulling.

[vanderchevy18]

The water injection on my Powerstroke is used to cool the intake temps but not to the degree that nitrous does. Its also injected directly into the intake just like nitrous. I get about 50* drop in egts.


Yeah that's no different than light duty diesels. The 6.4 for example has incredible egt issues. Pull the emissions junk and the run cool and run forever.

[vanderchevy18]

Hey does anybody have egt and engine temp limits? Most are 1200* egt and 210* engine temp. Are the 4d55s any different?

[joey_crandall]

what about using propane and nitrous, wouldnt that be like adding more boost/fuel. or is that asking for even worse.

[vanderchevy18]

Yeah that's really asking for trouble. See Nitrous' main job aside from cooling intake temps is to enrich the atmosphere inside the engine with oxygen. More oxygen to burn more fuel. The side effect ti an oxygen enriched atmosphere is hydrocarbon has a higher flash point. Essentially advancing timing. That's why after a certain point you have to start pulling timing to run nitrous safely. Also you need to watch your torque because cylinder pressures spike from the more violent ignition. Now the good thing about nitrous is its controllable. Unlike propane. You don't have to control the exact moment the nitrous is injected because there isn't any fuel for it to burn. Now you add propane into the mix (again, constantly flowing into the intake) and you have a fuel that already detonates prematurely and a catalyst that speeds up the detonation and makes it even more violent. Oh it'll work. It'll give you gobs of power too. But for how long? Once? Twice?

[camoit]

Yeah that's no different than light duty diesels. The 6.4 for example has incredible egt issues. Pull the emissions junk and the run cool and run forever.

Not in California.. They are smog test every year now. F--rikn ass holes. 97 and up. There are a couple places around the state you don't need to smog. I have a UPS PO. box for that cars in one of those places. Guys that spent the bucks to trick them out are putting back ALL the stock stuff. Even the exhaust systems. Next comes a computer check. They will get rid of the dyno test and just plug in. Any codes or sign of tamper and your out.
I think the car and truck manufactures should just stop building engines for California. No new cars no new engines. Then watch the people scream at the state for a change.
Right now they have a man hunt for a guy in Humbolt. He took out 2 of the county big wigs government people. He is a survivalist. It's going to be a blood bath trying to bring him in. He knows the woods like the back of his hands and he has lots of ammo. He has been living and eating off the land for years.

[vanderchevy18]

Wow that sucks. Here in Kansas we don't even have an inspection. Not even on new vehicles. A guy can buy a 2011, strip it down, run open headers, whatever and be just fine.

[4D55 Performance]

Hey does anybody have egt and engine temp limits? Most are 1200* egt and 210* engine temp. Are the 4d55s any different?

I have my pyro located post turbo, due to space issues with my coilovers, and I try to keep it under 900F on long sustained climbs. That should be about the equivalent 1200F if the pyro were located pre turbo.

[camoit]

You don't need a pyro gage. Just lots of heat shielding out of gold.
This thing is hotter than a double pecker Billy Goat. Now thats hot.

See Video.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gSHToyGIxWE

[vanderchevy18]

Ok so I'll take 1200* as the answer. No offense, but I would make every effort possible to move it to the exhaust manifold. Not trying to be a dick. Just sayin. There's really no way to put it in the manifold?

[vanderchevy18]

That video is awesome!! Lol!

[camoit]

You can drill and tap the manifold can't you? Or is there no room for it? Normally it's right after the turbo unless you are building race engines with data feed back. Then you install 1 in every port like the video. That shit gets me hard.......

[vanderchevy18]

No normally its preturbo. You really shouldn't ever have it after the turbo.

[camoit]

Thats where they are on all the big trucks. They run about 1200- 1400 after the turbo. Some times 18 on a hill.
Oh here check out this vid in the link. This is cool.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/261-Camoit-s-Links-to-parts-and-equiptment-used-in-build

[cdalejef]

Hey VanderChevy18, looks like we think alike!

Here is my 89 B2600i with a 4D56...

http://cdalejef.smugmug.com/Trucks/Mazda-B2600i/i-bxjpbVQ/0/L/smugshot8523541-L.jpg

http://cdalejef.smugmug.com/Trucks/Mazda-B2600i/i-t5GKs2J/0/L/smugshot3460028-L.jpg

http://cdalejef.smugmug.com/Trucks/Mazda-B2600i/i-LSg5ZHF/0/L/smugshot6352822-L.jpg

http://cdalejef.smugmug.com/Trucks/Mazda-B2600i/i-hZ6fTVW/0/L/smugshot450902-L.jpg

[vanderchevy18]

That is super nice!!! Yours looks to be in way better condition than mine. Newer engine and truck too. How's your first gear though? My 1st gear is waaay too high. It feels like I'm starting in second. I need to swap gears to some 3:73's or something along those lines, but I would have to swap axles and don't want to lose the independent front suspension. Any ideas? You also did the exact same thing I did with the gauges. 2 gauge pillar for a f-250 cut down.

Looks great!

[camoit]

NICE.....

[4D55 Performance]

The gearing is very tricky on these little engines. They make maximum torque at 2900 rpm which is very high for a diesel. You will want to keep the RPM's around 2500-3000rpm for around town driving. Lugging these engines will cause them to overheat. I have 33" tires and I run 5.29 gears which is just about right. The lower gear ratio is also much easier on clutch and transmission. Here are some numbers to think about:


Tire Size = Ratio
33-35" = 5.29
31-33" = 4.88
30-31" = 4.56
29-30" = 4.11
28-29" = 3.90
27-28" = 3.73
26-27" = 3.55

The numbers are bases off of a 3.7-3.967 first gear ratio and a .80-.865 overdrive ratio.

[vanderchevy18]

From your chart I think I should go with 4:88 gears. The problem is though that I don't know where to get them for my Mazda. You can't find hardly anything at all for these trucks! If I would have known that I would have gone with a toyota. Thanks for the chart!

[4D55 Performance]

I would try to give you a recommendation but I am not familiar with Mazda's. There may be some more gearing options available through Mazda overseas. I know lower Mitsubishi gears can be had overseas through the dealer. THey are a little pricey, but they are well worth it. I tried running 4.11 gears with 31" tires and I burned up a brand new clutch in 500 miles because I thought I could get away with running higher gearing with oversized tires.

[cdalejef]

I'm turning 3000 RPM at 70mph with 4.30 gears and 29" tires. 1st gear is like a tractor.

[4D55 Performance]

I'm turning 3000 RPM at 70mph with 4.30 gears and 29" tires. 1st gear is like a tractor.

It sounds like you could benefit by going with 30" tires. I think 30" tires would be perfect for your 4.30 gears. It would give you a little more top end and the clutch should still grab just fine.

[vanderchevy18]

Mine are either 31's or 33's. I can't remember.

[4D55 Performance]

Mine are either 31's or 33's. I can't remember.


You need to see where Cdalejef got his 4.30 gears and upgrade. If you upgrade to 4.30 gears you could probably get away with running 31" tires but 30" tires would be more ideal. Trying to running 33" tires with 4.30 gears is going to make for a very miserable drive. My buddy has 4.56 gears in his 2.3 Turbo Diesel pickup and it feels under powered. To run 33" tires you will need to run a much lower gear ratio like 4.88 or 5.29. If you plan to run 33's, I would recommend running 5.29 gears over 4.88's because it will be easier on your clutch and tranny.

[vanderchevy18]

Heck yeah! Let me know man and I could get me some gears!

If you think that would be miserable, think of what its like now. I have stock gearing from a gas motor truck on 33's. I don't know what stock gearing is but its horrible! I can run 70mph in 4th before even thinking of shifting to 5th!!

[cdalejef]

The 4:30's are the stock gears with the manual tranny. Auto's came with 4.44's.

[vanderchevy18]

Finally got some parts in for my new turbo setup!

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/IMG958877.jpg

[4D55 Performance]

The 4:30's are the stock gears with the manual tranny. Auto's came with 4.44's.

You're gonna want the 4.44's

[vanderchevy18]

Its getting there! I'm almost done with the exhaust manifold, intercooler, plumbing, and power steering.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2011-11-22_17-10-24_726.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2011-11-22_17-05-30_110.jpg

[vanderchevy18]

To clarify... There was no powersteering either. I had to find a pump and make a bracket.

[camoit]

Dude that looks like a tight fit..... Is there enough clearance there when you unload the torque or bang reverse the turbo wont hit?

[vanderchevy18]

It's not done yet. It'll be up higher and a tiny bit shorter before its done.

[cdalejef]

What's that intercooler off of?

[vanderchevy18]

Mercury Cougar Turbo Coupe.

[miked50]

max boost attained on my 4D56 is about 0.8 kg/cm2 at WOT....turbo btw is an air-cooled TD04.

[vanderchevy18]

OK so I finally ordered the last of the parts today since I'll have time to work on it this weekend. Most of the mods I've done have been pretty well free. Either I made it or modified it myself. As for the Turbo stuff, I got everything through Jake at Irate Diesel Performance for I think a really good price. Gotta hand it to him. Who would ever think a shop that specializes in Powerstrokes, would take care of the work and part acquisition for a build like this on such an obscure motor? Not to mention, do it without jacking the price through the roof!

Heres basically the parts list i got through Irate Diesel Performance. 4 intercooler boots, 8 clamps, 2 new intercooler pipes, new oil feed line, new oil drain line, all the fittings, the custom exhaust manifold flange, manifold pipes, turbo inlet and outlet fittings, T3 flange, turbine outlet flange and clamp, 4 new glow plugs, intercooler, and a T3/T4 hybrid Turbo.

I'll get more pics and a video up once I get it done this weekend.

[vanderchevy18]

Oh, and here's what I have so far. Turbo is all mounted. Just waiting on plumbing.

http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2012-01-12_20-35-33_554.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2012-01-12_20-34-11_653.jpg
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2012-01-12_20-35-33_554.jpg

[camoit]

Sweet dude....

[PowerRam348]

that's a nice looking build you got there. i don't know much about diesels so this is nice.

[PowerRam348]

i'm not sure that i understand the running gear thing you were talking about. is that because of the short powerband that diesels have?

[vanderchevy18]

Sorry I haven't been on here in a while. Busy busy.

Here's the finished product!
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2012-01-27_16-30-22_696.jpg

It runs very good! The only problem I have is the glow plugs don't work. I had 6v plugs in them and burned them out. I ordered some 12v plugs since its wired to 12v power but they are nowhere near the same! I got 7880 Y-710J plugs. Any ideas?

[vanderchevy18]

Diesels don't have a short power band. Actually given the rpm range, their power band is much longer than a gas motor. Its because the gearing is taller than normal, the tires are much bigger than normal, and its a relatively heavier vehicle. Its coping better with the extra power, but 75mph in 4th without the engine screaming is a bit too high geared.

[camoit]

I think there is a thread with part numbers for the conversion. Otherwise you will need a dropping resistor. How about a video of it running and driving?

[vanderchevy18]

I did use the number from a thread on here. 7880 something. Here's a pic of the two plugs.
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2012-02-07_20-50-46_702.jpg

[vanderchevy18]

They're both the same except for the threads. I can screw the new ones in just fine, but I don't think they screw in near far enough to hold without blowing out. I can only get them in about halfway before it seats.

[cdalejef]

Sorry I haven't been on here in a while. Busy busy.

Here's the finished product!
http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/vanderchevy18/2012-01-27_16-30-22_696.jpg

?

What intercooler is that?

[vanderchevy18]

Out of a cougar Turbo coupe.

[PowerRam348]

now, this is something that i don't understand. why do you need such short running gears. my truck has 4.222' gears and i can start in second gear with my 33's on and am shifting into 5th by 50-55mph. i could also do this when the motor was stock as well. i understand that the diesels are a little heavier but my truck weighs just shy of 3600 pounds without me in it. how much heavier are the diesels than the gas trucks? is it that the transmission gears are different ratio's than the km-145 transmission or something else. my buddy has an older toyota hilux 4-door with the stock 2.2 Liter non-turbo diesel motor and he ran 38's on his and only recently went to a lower running gear from the stock 4.111's cause he went to 44 inch tires. now he only runs 4.56 gears. my buddy has had the same clutch in his truck for five years now and has not had a problem. his clutch is a centerforce if that makes a difference.

[miked50]

maybe this could be of help vanderchevy. i'm using kitahara HKT PM-75 replacement glow plugs on my motor. you may want to take a look at the crosses on this part number. hth

[vanderchevy18]

I forgot to update this but the ones I got work great! I just said the heck with it and used them. Been working great every day for a month now.

Everything so far has been working great. There are still some problems but I'm fixing issues one by one. Its not an over night project for sure! Right now my main complaints are engine noise, an oil leak on the front cover (possibly oil pump shaft packing?), and egts. I'm keeping egts in check but its hard to stay at speed with it. Gearing should probably get rid of both those issues at the same time. I don't really know what to do with the insanely loud engine noise. I don't mean normal old diesel engine noise. This thing is so loud I can't carry on a conversation in the cab going down the road! Its always been like that. Maybe some sound deadener on the valve cover? I don't know. One of these days I'll pull the front apart and find the oil leak. For now its not bad so I'll worry about it later. Any ideas?

[vanderchevy18]

Oh, and where can I find the specs for adjusting lash?

[camoit]

Look in the manual section under 116+ manuals. You can download all the diesel books we have in 1 zip file.

[vanderchevy18]

Tried to download them but it didn't work.

Actually thinking about selling it. Anybody wanna shoot me an offer?

[cdalejef]

tried to download them but it didn't work.

Actually thinking about selling it. Anybody wanna shoot me an offer?

nooooooooo!!!!!!

[camoit]

Tried to download them but it didn't work.



I just checked the link. it works. You may have pop up blockers on for the site. If so them there would be a "security" bar at the top of the browser window. Or right click the link and select save target as....

[vanderchevy18]

I'll try it again. I use my phone for everything so that might be the problem.

If i do sell it, I need to get the head gasket and balance shaft seals replaced first. I've got it all torn down right now. Trying to figure out how to get the driver side balance shaft seal out. How the heck does this shaft gear center up on the shaft? It looks like the thing just wallows around on the shaft! Can someone who knows give me a call? 316.650_106three

[camoit]

Ya the phone is the problem. It's a big file and zipped.
Post a picture of the parts.

[vanderchevy18]

OK. I got the seals out and one replaced. I have to wait till Tuesday for my oil pump/balance shaft seal. This balance shaft gear has to be stripped out. The one on the passenger side has a flat spot on the inside of the gear to mate up with the flat spot on the shaft. The one on the driver side doesn't not. If anyone has an extra, please call me! I'll buy it and pay for next day shipping!

[vanderchevy18]

My computer sucks. All I need to know is the spacing to adjust the lash. It looks like there's 1/8" gap right now.

[camoit]

No information on the sticker under the hood? I want to say .006 and .008 but I'm not sure.

[vanderchevy18]

OK so I got a friend to download the file for me. Everything is back together and ready to fire! Well.... all except that balance shaft seal and sprocket. I need a new driver side sprocket or something. There's no flat spot on the sprocket to slide onto the shaft. Can someone please point me to one? I'm getting desperate here! Lol!

[camoit]

B&R Head and block West Sacramento. http://brheadblock.com/
If they cant get it they can build it.

[vanderchevy18]

I emailed them. Also emailed another place too. We'll see what they think.

[camoit]

I would call them. I don't know what the response on emails are. It's a good shop. I have been in there many times.

[vanderchevy18]

Hallelujah!! I have one coming!! I'm on a facebook group called Kansas Diesel Crew and a guy joined last night that has a couple rangers with the 4d55 and lots of parts!! How freaky is that!?!? Lol!

[camoit]

Now thats funny. At least you found one. I hope you don't dump the truck now. You can always invite them on to our board. Once you get it running make sure the exhaust flows cleanly. Otherwise this happens when you plug them.
Keep an eye on the exhaust ......




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_8Fc9qAZcw

[vanderchevy18]

Yeah it was pretty cool to find someone so close. He just bought a ranger with a 4d55 in it a couple days ago that runs great for $350!!! That makes his 4th truck with a 4d55! Lol! If it runs as good as I'm hoping, I will definitely keep it.

That's pretty cool. Lol! I've seen quite a few catastrophic failures being around performance diesels, but none that bad. Lol!

[camoit]

How did you like the way the exhaust blue up like a balloon first. Then it sounds different, and finally the pressure is released. People just don't know that a diesel engine is just a controlled bomb. Why the guy running the camera did not see the movement and hit the e stop who knows. Things should never move on a dyno.
Here is a Detroit that he should have shut down the very second it started hunting. When they hunt it tells you it is on the verge of a runaway. Especially a Detroit. Instead of the shop rag he should have pulled the emergency kill lever on the blower. I have only seen 1 in my life on a cat and it was bad.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NRaqgab0_w

[vanderchevy18]

Well I have some amazing news, and some not so good news. Boost went from 15psi under full load and full throttle, to 20psi under 3/4 throttle! Its also whisper quiet now! Egts are a bit lower too. Its peppier too! Finally it stays cooler too. Before it would get too hot too quick. Not a problem anymore! Overall I am super happy with it! Just one tiny little problem. The oil leak didn't go away!!!!!!! Aaaaaahhhhhh!!!!!! I think its the front main seal. That's the only thing i didn't replace. I guess I'll tear the dang thing back down again! Dang it!! Also during the drive it just all of a sudden got a much louder and raspier exhaust note. Not sure why. It wasn't missing or anything. The exhaust just got louder and raspier. Balance shaft? I don't know. It runs great though. The only other problem i had was the rocker arm shaft bolts started backing out. No big deal there cause its common. A little loctite and its fixed. But I'm definitely happy with the rest of it though! It really is a whole new truck!!

[vanderchevy18]

Now to take it back apart and find that stupid oil leak!

[cdalejef]

What kind of EGT's are you pulling?

[vanderchevy18]

Well it used to be 1000-1100 just cruising 60mph. I could hit 1400* on a hard pull. Now I get around 800* cruising and 1250 on a hard pull.

[vanderchevy18]

Well I got the oil leak stopped! Woohoo! It took me all of an hour to pull it apart, put the new crank seal in, and put it back together! The old seal wasn't even bad. It just wasn't pushed in! Seriously! I pulled the gear off and the seal was just sitting on the shaft! It doesn't matter. I'm happy its drive able again!

Egts are high again though. Still tuning the pump. Its just a constant work in progress!

[vanderchevy18]

I've spent more time driving it today. I did some more tuning on it too. Basically I've got the full load screw in as far as it'll go without revving up the motor. I've also got the boost fueling valve shimmed as far as it'll go. I shimmed the timing advance spring a little and I'm building 23psi of boost now. It is running so clean that i cant puff black even if i lug it! Only problem is I can hit 1400* egt pretty quick. I'm thinking I need some more fuel so I can quench it a little but I don't think it has any more fuel to give! Lol! I think I've officially hit a stopping point till I can get some pump work done and the injectors edm'd.

[camoit]

If you back off the timing will it cool it down?
I think you are on the edge. You need to back somthing down just a little, or somthing is going to give. If you can back things down one at a time to get her to smoke a little then work it back up just a touch you can take one step back from the edge and enjoy the view.

[vanderchevy18]

Yeah I thought of that. I'll probably back it down a bit tomorrow. I do want to get a little more fuel though. That'll just be farther down the road.

[camoit]

Cool I just don't want you to pop it after so much work. At least not that fast. Would not want to see a new youtube video show up.

[vanderchevy18]

Haha! Well I think it'll be okay. Its a trial and error thing. Its not like it would be my first time blowing up an engine though. Lol! I put a rod through the side of my 600hp 7.3l Powerstroke day before yesterday. Too much power for too long. I have another engine ready to go back in it, just have to find the time.

[cdalejef]

I'm hitting between 1200 and 1250 on hills with a stock motor and no intercooler (yet).

[cdalejef]

And that is pre turbo.

[vanderchevy18]

Im done with this project and I have another d50 to start on.

<<< EDIT >>>
Only donators can sell parts on the board.

[ntsqd]

snippage.....

As stated, propane is a fuel. A fuel which has a much higher flash point than diesel and a higher expansion rate.
Now fuel is injected into an engine at an exact moment. That's what we all know is timing. Inject too early and you have un atomized fuel being compressed and going off at or before top dead center. Resulting in a windowed block. Same goes for too much timing. Now. Why on Gods green earth would you inject a fuel that spikes cylinder pressures to an unsafe level without controlling when the fuel is injected? People do it. Some get lucky and it lasts a little while longer than others. Eventually though it'll bite em.
First post, researching these engines as a possible swap into my yota Xcab 4x4 when this caught my eye. Can't speak to the expansion rate, but the flash point statement is wrong if an SAE publication is to be believed. "Alternative Fuels Guidebook" (R. Bechtold, 1997 SAE; ISBN 0-7680-0052-1) pg. 66 has a listing of Propane and diesel fuel properties side by side. Flash point for diesel is 165*f; flash point for Propane is -156*f

Perhaps flash point was confused with Auto-Ignition temperature? Diesel's Auto-Ignition temperature is listed as being 600*f while Propane's is listed as being 855*f. Assuming that the combustion chamber temperature never reached 855*f & nothing in the chamber (head surface, valves, etc.) was at or above that temperature then the propane would not ignite. It would be there waiting for the diesel injection to commence combustion. This variability in when induction induced propane ignites could explain why propane caused catastrophes are random rather than exactly predictable.

Combustion commencing before TDC isn't uncommon, it intentionally happens very frequently. Witness that timing advance is always before TDC and poor running results from late timing. Some of that is to offset the "inertia" of components in the system, but not all of it. Combustion starting TOO early is altogether a different thing and is a problem.

[camoit]

I wasn't talking about on the light duty engines. Your benefit is too little. I do know people that have the systems and they work just fine. Class 8 heavy duty I can gain from 1 to 3 MPG if I was to add propane and reduce the injected amount of fuel in my cat engines. But that is not enough for the government. They want zero emissions for diesels.

[vanderchevy18]

<<<<< EDIT >>>>> No selling on the board with out being a donator. 2nd time.
Please do not post adds.

Look here to see what happens.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/1167-1983-Mighty-Max-being-sold-in-Bay-Area?p=10499#post10499

[mazda diesel]

Hey I put a 4d55 in an '87 Mazda B2600 too!4811
Here's mine, I put 16" rims and 265x75R16 tires on it

[recian]

Why did the thread have to end? :( I was enjoying learning about what I can do to these engines. How would you go about lowering the compression? Do they make pistons that aren't as high? Don't forget you've got a pretty weak engine for the weight. Lowering the compression will also reduce responsiveness but then again turbo spool won't be as bad as on gas engines since it should spool faster. Also I intend to put 3.55s in my truck to see what it can do. Guys at work always joke about how these trucks couldn't do 70mph new.

[cdalejef]

Why did the thread have to end? :( I was enjoying learning about what I can do to these engines. How would you go about lowering the compression? Do they make pistons that aren't as high? Don't forget you've got a pretty weak engine for the weight. Lowering the compression will also reduce responsiveness but then again turbo spool won't be as bad as on gas engines since it should spool faster. Also I intend to put 3.55s in my truck to see what it can do. Guys at work always joke about how these trucks couldn't do 70mph new.

The guys at work would be dead wrong! I've had mine well over 80 several times. Hell, I drive 70-75 everyday back and forth to work with lots of throttle left.

[recian]

Theyre specifically talking about the older 4d55 diesel from the 80s D50s. On mine I plan to add an intercooler, 3" exhaust and replace both F and R diffs with 3.55s and keep the stock 15" tires. It should have no problem with MPGs or reliability then. I'd like to add a 4d56 roller rocker head and lower the compression then up the boost with a good name brand turbo. Could I swap the 4d56 internals into the 4d55 block? Then I could afford to lower the compression to keep the engine cooler but should maintain the same feel as they've got a 5mm longer stroke making up for the torque. I'd like to make something to shut em up. When this truck is done I'll probably sell my 2nd gen and buy a mind 90s 12v cummins ram for a real drag truck since parts are way more available than performance parts for this engine. Plus it'll handle alot more abuse but I'd like to give this one something to brag about.

[thillskier]

Try soaking them in carb cleaner overnight, unless you see they have melted or have heat marks on them. May just have a carbon coating on them...

[thillskier]

Not sure about the Mazda gearing in a swap. My (bought new) 84 hauled ASS! I cruised to the beach and back every other wkend at 80+ and it was cruising..top speed was over 100 indicated..they redlined at over 4500, if memory is correct;)!

[recian]

Yours had somewhere around 3.73 I believe. The 5 speeds had taller rear gears. Autos were lower which is why they tend to be slower. That's what my 84 has. I've got a set of 3.23 or something around that range from a 4x4 auto if 72dusted would let me know what he wants for them...

[matthew95]

Hey your not to far from me I believe I was wondering where to get parts for my truck I have a 1984 turbo diesel dodge ram 50 first one I have ever owned could you help me?