jamesw
07-25-2017, 02:55 PM
as some of you may know i have been working on my 1988 dodge ram sport 2.6l with automatic transmission now for over a year. the weber carb has done nothing but give me fits with the run on issues.
i talked to redline techs did everything they suggested
vacuum advance check all good,
new plugs all good,
new breather all good,
newrubber vacuum line coming from the distributor to the carb all good,
i have adjusted the timing till i was blue in the face,
i tried all kinds of fuel's and additives ,
i did the fuel pressure regulator on my manual pump.
didn't help.
i went threw the shut fuel off solenoid game
*i guess i must note here that i have the Weber 32/36 Dfev with Electric Choke*
which btw they don't make one for this model.
after fighting this for for over 2 mo,s i have finally found the right combination of stuff that so far is working.
i went on ebay and got a 7mm spacer not the 1 inch 19246 put on it and low and behold so far after testing it over the last few days everything is working great.
i ran it up the interstate @ 75-80 mph made sure the engine got hot, not boiling mind you but within specs.
ran it up and down hills everything shifted out perfect better than before.
came back home shut it off.
no run on/dieseling.:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap: none not even once.
took it out @ differnet times of the day early in the morning late in the afternoon etc, etc, etc,
the little truck even seems to have more pickup.
still no run on/dieseling.
the only thing i can figure out is the carb was getting way to hot.
of course i could be wrong on this.
Here is a few tips to anyone that decides to tackle a weber carb on theses little trucks.
one of the main problems i have ran into is the 4 bolts that on the carb to the adapter plate 3 of them are ok to get to but that that 4th one under the throttle linkage is a monster. 19247
so i came up with an ideal that hopefully will help someone in the future what i done was take the bolts and using my cut off blade cut a slit in the very top of the bolt so that i could use a long flat head screw driver to screw it down into the adapter plate.
{{now i know what your going to say put the bolts in before seating the carb down on the adapter well thats all fine and good but i didn't know just how much threads i was going to have after putting on the extra 7mm spacer luckily there was enough.}}
now if i have to take off the carb and the nut hangs then i can unscrew it from the plate and get down to business .
i came across this because after putting on the 7 mm spacer i had to tighten the nuts down a bit and when i did i found out that i hadn't got the threaded bolt far enough down in the plate to hold.
it acted like it was stripped out talk about making my butt pucker i just knew that i was fixing to have to re-thread the plate and i was not looking forward to that believe me.
so once i seen that it was just a matter of not being down deep enough to thread itself i proceeded to try and screw the thread bolt on down in there well that went no where fast i wasn't going to take the whole carb off for just that one bolt.
so after spending about 2 hrs working
* i forgot to mention that the bolt was the one under the linkage btw of course*
to get the bolt out cutting my fingers on the threads and having a pain in my back from hell i finally got it out.
thats when i came up with the ideal of cutting a slit in the top to use a flat headed screw driver to put it back. took about 45 secs to run it back in place popped the nut on tighten the nut down and was good to go.
i hope that someone reads this and it helps them after all that is what this forum is all about helping.
not being a mister know it, all not being mr wizard ,just plain old get down and dirty, finger cutting, elbow banging, back hurting, head scratching, sleepiness nights , do-it-yourselfers.
so until the next little headache comes along lol happy trucking
i talked to redline techs did everything they suggested
vacuum advance check all good,
new plugs all good,
new breather all good,
newrubber vacuum line coming from the distributor to the carb all good,
i have adjusted the timing till i was blue in the face,
i tried all kinds of fuel's and additives ,
i did the fuel pressure regulator on my manual pump.
didn't help.
i went threw the shut fuel off solenoid game
*i guess i must note here that i have the Weber 32/36 Dfev with Electric Choke*
which btw they don't make one for this model.
after fighting this for for over 2 mo,s i have finally found the right combination of stuff that so far is working.
i went on ebay and got a 7mm spacer not the 1 inch 19246 put on it and low and behold so far after testing it over the last few days everything is working great.
i ran it up the interstate @ 75-80 mph made sure the engine got hot, not boiling mind you but within specs.
ran it up and down hills everything shifted out perfect better than before.
came back home shut it off.
no run on/dieseling.:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap: none not even once.
took it out @ differnet times of the day early in the morning late in the afternoon etc, etc, etc,
the little truck even seems to have more pickup.
still no run on/dieseling.
the only thing i can figure out is the carb was getting way to hot.
of course i could be wrong on this.
Here is a few tips to anyone that decides to tackle a weber carb on theses little trucks.
one of the main problems i have ran into is the 4 bolts that on the carb to the adapter plate 3 of them are ok to get to but that that 4th one under the throttle linkage is a monster. 19247
so i came up with an ideal that hopefully will help someone in the future what i done was take the bolts and using my cut off blade cut a slit in the very top of the bolt so that i could use a long flat head screw driver to screw it down into the adapter plate.
{{now i know what your going to say put the bolts in before seating the carb down on the adapter well thats all fine and good but i didn't know just how much threads i was going to have after putting on the extra 7mm spacer luckily there was enough.}}
now if i have to take off the carb and the nut hangs then i can unscrew it from the plate and get down to business .
i came across this because after putting on the 7 mm spacer i had to tighten the nuts down a bit and when i did i found out that i hadn't got the threaded bolt far enough down in the plate to hold.
it acted like it was stripped out talk about making my butt pucker i just knew that i was fixing to have to re-thread the plate and i was not looking forward to that believe me.
so once i seen that it was just a matter of not being down deep enough to thread itself i proceeded to try and screw the thread bolt on down in there well that went no where fast i wasn't going to take the whole carb off for just that one bolt.
so after spending about 2 hrs working
* i forgot to mention that the bolt was the one under the linkage btw of course*
to get the bolt out cutting my fingers on the threads and having a pain in my back from hell i finally got it out.
thats when i came up with the ideal of cutting a slit in the top to use a flat headed screw driver to put it back. took about 45 secs to run it back in place popped the nut on tighten the nut down and was good to go.
i hope that someone reads this and it helps them after all that is what this forum is all about helping.
not being a mister know it, all not being mr wizard ,just plain old get down and dirty, finger cutting, elbow banging, back hurting, head scratching, sleepiness nights , do-it-yourselfers.
so until the next little headache comes along lol happy trucking