Ram50 1987 spends a lot of fuel

[Exodo]

Hello friends, I come to expose my problem, which is the following, I have a Ram50 1987, 4 cylinders, 2.0 engine standart, the problem is that I spend a lot of gasoline and feels with little takeoff force and vibrations occasionally, and In the exhaust smells of raw gas, so I had already noticed the thermostat was left open, I proceeded to change it, like the oxygen sensor, even changed spark plugs and recalibrated it to 0.32, well, still it is still running on gas Of more and is very revolutionized even in low, which they believe may be the problem, look at the carburetor how to regulate the fuel and oxygen but I did not find these espreas, I hope they can help me, greetings!

P.D. - Sorry if something is not understandable, because I texted it with the translator of google because of not writing enough in English.

[85Ram50]

Hello Exodo,
Which carb do you have? These come with a Mikuni carb from the factory and a lot of guys convert them to Weber carbs. It will help anyone who might know how to diagnose this to know which carb you have.

[Exodo]

Actually, it has Mikuni carburetor, double throat, previously I did not spend as much fuel, as I said, and I changed thermostat and oxygen sensor, and caliber spark plugs at 0.32

[markmakeitso]

Hi Exodo,
I have a similar issue, I'm lucky to get 12-14 MPG out of my 2.6, with light town duty and relaxed highway cruising. Would be nice to get more than that. Also, that's after plugs, wire, cap, rotor, and air filter were changed.

If I recall correctly the carb is set up to run rich normally, and then depending on several engine parameters, it should reduce fuel introduced to approximate an ideal mixture. There are electrical components (throttle position sensor, O2 sensor, rudimentary ECU, etc) and vacuum components required for that all to work properly, and I'd guess that most failures would tend towards the rich running we both have. At some point I'm guessing the rich running ruined the exhaust catalyst on mine also, as it was patched with a flex piece when I bought the truck. That's a fair warning that operating yours like that might cause further problems.

I've learned to put up with it, as it's an occasional use vehicle for me. Wouldn't turn down improvement in mileage though, and many people do perform a carb swap with good results.

[geezer101]

Check your vacuum control hoses. If they are split or perished it will affect your fuel economy. Clean out the carburettor with a can of carb cleaner and run a fuel system cleaner additive to the fuel tank. If the jets aren't atomising fuel evenly it won't burn clean. If your ignition coil is 15 years old, replace it. A tired ignition coil will affect economy and HP. Don't use the factory engine tune, it is lousy for power. My method of engine tuning is simple enough and will improve engine performance. With the engine running, undo the distributor retaining nut, hold the throttle @ 2000 rpm and gently adjust the distributor between advance and retard until the engine rpm's increase by itself. Back the distributor off a little and lock the distributor in place.

*Exodo, with your spark plug gap that close you may not be getting enough ignition heat to burn fuel cleanly. Open your plug gap up to at least .85mm (.032in) with my engine tune method and you should notice some improvement.

[geezer101]

I'll use the google translate and hopefully it won't be offensive or stupid...


Revise sus mangueras de control de vacío. Si se dividen o perecieron afectará su economía de combustible. Limpie el carburador con una lata de limpiador de carbohidratos y ejecute un aditivo de limpieza del sistema de combustible en el tanque de combustible. Si los chorros no atomizan combustible uniformemente no se quemará limpio. Si su bobina de encendido tiene 15 años, reemplácelo. Una bobina de encendido cansado afectará la economía y HP. No utilice la melodía del motor de fábrica, es pésimo para el poder. Mi método de ajuste del motor es bastante simple y mejorará el rendimiento del motor. Con el motor en marcha, desatornillar la tuerca de retención del distribuidor, mantener el acelerador a 2000 rpm y ajustar suavemente el distribuidor entre avance y retardo hasta que el número de revoluciones del motor aumente por sí mismo. Atrás el distribuidor un poco y bloquear el distribuidor en su lugar. * Exodo, con su distancia de la bujía de la bujía que cerca usted no puede conseguir bastante calor de la ignición para quemar el combustible limpia. Abra su brecha de enchufe hasta por lo menos .85mm (.032in) con mi método del sintonizador del motor y usted debe notar una cierta mejora.

[85Ram50]

Nice Job once again geez. I think that Spark gap may be part of my problem I am using .32 or something close. Can't find anything in my FSM to say what the gap is factory.

[geezer101]

Nice Job once again geez. I think that Spark gap may be part of my problem I am using .32 or something close. Can't find anything in my FSM to say what the gap is factory.

The factory gap is .040 -.044in about 1.0 -1.1mm (but I always regap my plugs by .15mm to allow a longer sustained engine tune) and I have always used either Bosch or NGK plus (I lean more towards NGK's).

*should have specified that I decrease the gap by .15mm - sorry for any confusion :slap:

[pennyman1]

+2 on NGK plats - Bosch fouls out too easily, even with a high output coil. I run the NGKs with a .055 gap and a MSD blaster coil and Nology wires.