Looking at an 88 Mighty Max what should I be aware of?

[RipperXX]

$750 truck runs and drives, trans has a whine to it sort of like straight cut gears but not very loud in the higher gears. Slight tick when cold at idle, goes away, I figure it's a hydaulic lash adjuster or something but I'm not sure if it has them. It's a 2.0L engine, 5 speed, manual everything. Carb is a Holly that's been fit with an adapter plate, starts fine, but with a puff of blue smoke. idles fine, seems to drive and accelerate fine but with the slightest dip at one point lower in the throttle either side of it is perfectly fine and I didn't notice it at first, i'm sure it's just a slight tuning issue.

What's up with an O2 sensor on a engine with a carburetor and distributor??? I'm not new to Mitsubishi, I have owned a 1990 Eagle Talon TSi, 5 speed since I was 17, I'm 33 now, still own it. :) But I don't know anything about this engine or these trucks. Has a oil leak around the distributor, he say's it's a hour job and a .50cent o-ring which sounds about right. Everything appears to work but some of it is pretty ugh, well his words were "afro engineered". It's clearly seen better days, but it's a running driving truck for $750.

I'm going to go look at it again when it's not raining, other than the bumper having surface rust I didn't notice any, anything I should be aware of that's a known issue?

P.S. I noticed the clutch didn't engage until almost at the very top of the pedals throw / range of movement. I didn't look but are they hydraulic clutches or cable? I'm trying to figure out if it just needs adjustment or what? (Didn't slip though so, there's that). Has almost new tires on it. cracked windshield, busted headlight on the passenger side, needs a blinker on the drivers side.

[geezer101]

Hi and welcome to mightyram. Well there's a ton of stuff to go through so if I miss something or god forbid get it wrong, there will be another on site pro to set you (or me...) straight. Whine - could be timing belt is over tensioned (really bad - need to get onto that before it blows), wrong timing belt profile (more of the same - swap it for the correct belt profile *there's 2 types: round and square, should be round I think). Holley carb - not great for 2.0, probably over fuelling due to incorrect jetting, possible choke issue (Weber 32/36 is tried and true). When you use a bigger carb it will compromise running in some way - lose bottom end, gain top end, add more midrange torque etc). If you really want to nail engine tuning, it takes proper selection of jetting and alteration of distributor advance curve to suit.

The original Mikuni carb has an electronic control module on it that used the O2 sensor to alter tune. The vac control box that was fitted to these trucks is the stuff of nightmares - a primary cause of vacuum leaks and carb issues. The O2 sensor is redundant BUT is handy if you want to install an A/F meter to monitor engine tune and economy. The distributor leak is as simple to fix as stated. Clutch on the trucks is cable, sounds like the clutch just needs an adjustment. There will be very few members here who haven't had the joy of deciphering the sketchy ass ghetto repairs/mods on D-50's, Rams and Mighty Max's to make sense of them, and then try rectifying it. Sounds like the rest of your post comes down to cosmetic repairs. These trucks are simple to work on and like most vehicles, they have a quirk or 2, but are pretty tough in the grand scheme of things. If you opt in and buy the truck, the site will be a major help with anything you need :thumbup:

[RipperXX]

The whine was only while in gear and moving so I don't see how it could possibly be the timing belt. The Holley carb I failed to mention is a 350cfm unit off a boat engine... no idea about a/f ratio being correct (jetting being right) unless I temporarily move my wide band from my Talon to the truck, which I don't really want to do it's kind of a pita. I might see if there is a dyno anywhere around with a wide band just to see where it's A/F ratio is.

My biggest concern is the transmission, I have never even cracked open a trans before. Are these units fairly simple? Can FSM (factory service manuals) still be found for the engine and trans? I prefer them to Chilton and Hayness manuals.

[pennyman1]

there are FSMs on the site here under manuals. The whine of the tranny may be low oil in the tranny - pull the plug on the side of the tranny and see where the level is - it should be to the bottom of the opening. The Holley 350 cfm carb is a little much for the 2.0, but with jetting can be made to run efficiently. The blue smoke may be valve guide seals - not a tough repair. The tapping is the hydraulic lash adjustors - change the oil and use 1 quart of Rislone in place of a quart of oil - this will clean up the whole engine and quiet down the lifters.

[geezer101]

The transmission is a KM 132 (narrow block bell housing). OK so it 'could' have a bad bearing and/or thrust plate in it. You can buy full syncho, bearing and seal kits for them on ebay. IDK the procedure to tear down and reassemble a 5 speed but there isn't any dark magic lurking in there. I think bearings may require being pressed on and off shafts. Lots of manuals/PDF's available to walk you through the process worse case scenario. All it might need is an oil change and top up with a heavier grade - it's just one of those things you won't get an answer to until you crack it open and have a look. Holley 350 CFM is too big for for the 2.0. Weber flows 300 CFM. If the carb came off a boat then there's a good chance it's only been jetted to run flat out - not ideal for a car/truck engine.

[pennyman1]

use gl4 gear oil - gl5 will eat the brass parts in the tranny

[RipperXX]

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm trying to decide if it's going to be worth it for the price given the repairs that need to be made and my time.

[RipperXX]

What kind of Weber carb for these engines?

[geezer101]

The Weber 32/36 DGEV is the go to carb for swaps. The throttle linkages work the same way as the factory Mikuni (there are a number of different configurations of Weber carbs with linkages on either side of the carb and clockwise/anticlockwise throttle actuation) and it eliminates the water choke (something you won't have to deal with as a Holley has already been installed). Get a carb from an authorised supplier - there are knock off carbs on the market that are nothing but junk. We have a couple of threads on the subject and it will save you time, money and grief.

[RipperXX]

Well, I bought it! (Turn's out it's a Dodge Ram 50) So far as I know, the same as the Eagle Talon / Mitsubishi Eclipse / Plymouth Laser sort of thing, they're all the same car.

https://i.imgur.com/AcuOKhY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/GrqOvPm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/FMsDNcG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rcrSiH9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/53yGfL6.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ff5QtWH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xeYcnNW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/dXtCSg8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/0fxI6PB.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ZBPMyHb.jpg


So how did I do for $900?

Doesn't whine in 4th gear, so my father thinks it's some sort of bearing, he said but I don't recall. Owner said he didn't re-jet the carb. The 1 headlight somehow still works with water inside, looks bright to look at, but, holy shit is it weak as fuck on the street, like a night light! I was trying to get home before it got any darker!

Starts so easy it's silly, seriously never seen a vehicle start this fast, like on the first turn. But yeah I can smell it at idle, she's rich.

[RipperXX]

Why did none of the pictures load correctly?

https://imgur.com/AcuOKhY
https://imgur.com/GrqOvPm
https://imgur.com/rcrSiH9
https://imgur.com/FMsDNcG
https://imgur.com/ff5QtWH
https://imgur.com/xeYcnNW
https://imgur.com/dXtCSg8
https://imgur.com/53yGfL6

[RipperXX]

The Weber 32/36 DGEV is the go to carb for swaps. The throttle linkages work the same way as the factory Mikuni (there are a number of different configurations of Weber carbs with linkages on either side of the carb and clockwise/anticlockwise throttle actuation) and it eliminates the water choke (something you won't have to deal with as a Holley has already been installed). Get a carb from an authorised supplier - there are knock off carbs on the market that are nothing but junk. We have a couple of threads on the subject and it will save you time, money and grief.

Recommendation for a vendor to buy the carb from?

P.S. $171 battery!!! Who remembers when they were $35!!!! WTF!?

[RipperXX]

Looks like the K 610 is the correct kit from this vendor?
http://redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/chrysler-dodge/

[geezer101]

^those guys are legit. Right kit for our trucks with manual transmission. Yeah dude, some things are crazy expensive now (anyone remember what fuel cost before Gulf War Ver-1.0?). Your truck has some dubious ghetto wiring, radiator has been replaced sometime recently, but will pull into shape with a big clean and a shot of paint here and there where there's surface rust. You never know what is lurking inside a many hand truck...

[pennyman1]

thank the EPA and their regs for the high battery prices - to keep you safe...from your money.

[RipperXX]

Yeah, being more of an EFI guy, my father who's 72 and been a GM mechanic most of his life is going to come school me on the ways of old. XD First thing is adjusting the clutch cable, and re-jetting the carb, I can tackle fixing a lot of this wiring, clean up, replacing damaged parts etc. just fine. Once I'm happy with it mechanically, and electrically then I'll start working on the body. I work in a sheet metal fabrication shop (not body) but we have a big blasting room so I can bead blast large panels, bumpers etc. easy to get any rust off. I guess lightly sand and scotch-brite from there. I need to learn a little more about body work, luckily a guy that works there used to work in a body shop. I have a compressor, with a big tank, not much of a compressor on it...it's sloooooow. It's also old as hell, like 1940's? old. But whatever got a regulator and a paint gun so she will get some love. I'll start a new thread once repairs start.

[geezer101]

thank the EPA and their regs for the high battery prices - to keep you safe...from your money.

I don't think it's entirely the EPA libtards fault. Battery prices skyrocketted ages ago (maybe the price of lead went up from the past few US engagements?) but we saw similar price increases here in Oz. Next time I'm up for a battery I might try using one of the resuscitation methods I've seen on youtube...

[RipperXX]

No idea, I wonder how much the shutdown of the last lead smelter in America effected the market. Also I know China has been buying lead like crazy. *shrug* oh well $750 truck, 171 dollar battery, $150 for extra engine, trans and passenger door. Drove it 35ish miles from previous owners property to mine without issue aside from the night light of a headlight. It's in my shop now, so I'll start another thread today or tomorrow on repairs as they go.

Question though: How might I better post pictures without them appearing zoomed way in or not all showing? I guess I can just post the IMGUR links.

[geezer101]

When you put up a post, click on 'Go Advanced'. When that page appears, scroll down and there's a bar marked 'Manage Attachments'. Click on that and you'll be given options to load images to your gallery from either a URL or direct from your PC. Once you've done that just click on the images you want to link to your post and voila! (or something like that). Yeah my images used to block out the sun too lol. Some things we have to suck up when owning a car/truck. Won't go far without a battery or tires :rolleyes:

[RipperXX]

woops, wrong thread.