Building a Big Bender

[tortron]

Work on my 1st gen tray and tailgate will necessitate a rather large sheet metal bender. Big ones are quite expensive, so I'm making one

The main ingredients are
https://i.imgur.com/pwU39Arl.jpg

a 6m length of 10mm thick angle iron (100x70mm) i got this used from a construction company and cut it into 2m lengths on site so i could 1. lift it, and b. fit it in the back of my truck.
This works out perfect as i wanted 180cm of usable bend

Then some 20mm ID pipe and some 20mm OD steel rod to make the hinges.
and some small rectangular box section to make an a frame on the clamp and gussets etc

i will also need some nuts and bolts, some kind of handle, and maybe some scooter or motorcycle springs to help lift the clamp section off the work piece

https://i.imgur.com/nWr02JQl.jpg
i figured on 10cm of hinge each end, and marked it out so the pipe would sit on centre with the corner

https://i.imgur.com/y0yhB1sl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zPO3zsOl.jpg
hinges on, admittedly a poor job. a drop saw would be nice to have, but i make do with an angle grinder.

https://i.imgur.com/3Er3OfLl.jpg
I cut a V into the hinge area and laid down a lot of beads, i probably also want to do the other side and grind flat. But 1 side can support the length of the whole thing, so maybe its strong enough. Amazingly perhaps the hinges also work smoothly


https://i.imgur.com/gkSDtc0l.jpg
The clamp section will go something like this, i may need to grind the leading edge to get a nice crisp bend
and this way i can make the most of my bending angle
https://i.imgur.com/J70sjjol.jpg


will tap and thread a grub screw into the hinge so the pin doesn't fall out. I really want to be able to break this thing down - as you can see it takes up my whole bench - and its very heavy and awkward to move even in sections

[tortron]

As it went i ended up with 179.5cm between the hinges, and i have spent under $150 on steel etc, could be a good money spinner on the side

[trashnomancer]

Nice build tortron. I love hack machine builds. Looks like a good worker in light sheet.

I would like to throw in a few opinions. Just opinions.

It looks like it is a fair bit wimpy for such a long bend. A few ideas I had was to weld a tube in the angle stock used for the moving arm. Would also work well for the toe.

Better yet is a matrix of fence post(or angle) and appropriately sized steel tube nested together.

I feel that hinge should have thicker walled knuckles. The pin looks like a good size. We will find out how long the ones you used last. Might be a fine setup over the long term. I would leave that area easy to work on just in case. And maybe keep an eye out for some thick steel round stock to take to a machinist to core and trim into knuckles for you(or if you are silly lucky, a thick walled tube or stand off with your needed diameter).

I wonder how you are handling the foot(toe). Again it seems a bit wimpy, but more importantly, I do not see how you are locking it down, and a third note, it would be really handy if the heel seated at the same height as the toe.

The way I feel I would set it up would be to thoroughly weld a heavy walled tube inside the toe angle iron with 100mm sticking out each end, making sure not to warp it, and making sure the tube is just small enough not to cause problems with your intended bends(more then one foot would not be a bad idea...).
Then build a couple blocks out of 100mm square hardwood by drilling a hole the size of your tube, slicing through the hole, and cutting the two to the exact same height(the distance between the toe tube, and the block mount I did not mention but you added because people around here are suppose to assume this type of thing...).
Add a bracket to hold an industrial quick clamp that centers over the toe tube.
Add an extension to support the heel at the same height as the toe. That way you could place bends in the middle of large panels. Without you would be restricted to what? maybe 75-100mm?

So you slide in your steel to the wanted mark, lock the quick clamps, and perform your bend. The toe always stays centered in the same place(repeatability), and


You were talking about having to move it... And my first thought was for you to install a heavy hinge and arm(steel tube?) and use an old boat trailer ratchet to lift it up to the wall? If you were feeling fancy you could add a counterweight system instead of the ratchet.

Just a few ideas...

As a side note, this will not be a very accurate tool not matter how you play it. The toe should be ground to a tighter lead(to keep bends tighter and straighter). And, well, I could go on and on.

But still it will likely serve as a basic tool as is, and could be made better as you go. Kudos on your initiative. May your project serve you well.

[tortron]

Hey, yeah it's not finished yet, haven't had much spare time in the garage. Top and bottom will receive gusseting, the top will get a big arch arrangement with some threaded rod to clamp the middle down. I have some M16 bolts to clamp down the ends, and the hinges will also receive some gusseting. The heal and tow will sit at the same level, I just need to trim where the hinges are fouling

[tortron]

So back into it, I'm getting sick of having a tray blocking my work bench and not in my truck

Enter "the stump grinder"
https://i.imgur.com/Au678uRl.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/qr5oVItl.jpg
Ground the clamping edge down to give a nice crisp bend rather than a roll over the curved edge. May need to knock it down another mm but will see how it goes.

Then cut some clearance for the hinges, and added some flat so I could run some bolts through the whole lot to clamp down.
Have slotted the holes so I can adjust the top clamping part to the thickness of the best being bent. I will pull the springs out of the grinder jig and use them in here too.
Bolts will go in the other way around- through my work bench so I can tighten down the nuts to clamp
https://i.imgur.com/9Fwf6iVl.jpg

[geezer101]

Backyard engineering - geezer approves :thumbup:

[tortron]

Feel free to send me your head for a skim geezer, it's fully adjustable

[geezer101]

lol I 'approve' but IDT it's that accurate... plus the shipping to Kiwiland and back is the cost of a head by itself. Anyhoo I got a pro shop to mill my head (I have to send it back at a later date to un-fudge a valve seat I accidentally buzzed while porting the sucker)

[tortron]

Without a welder this week so ground To a halt on everything else.
Drilled some holes in my bench and added the springs.
Had a small test and it works quite well even without handles on 1mm steel. When I get a welder back I'll go ahead and add the centre clamp section
21344 a

[tortron]

More or less finished now
https://i.imgur.com/vQIv3Wjh.jpg

Using up a few offcuts, but it works. Need to go through and gusset a couple spots. Forgot to get some 20mm ID pipe this morning shopping, but I'll use that to allow my 2 Jack handles to slot in in various positions. Bent a 50cm 1mm thick sheet to 90 degrees with no handles and it worked well, a nice crisp bend. May want to add in some fore/aft adjustment bolts to easily set up for sheet thickness.

Yeah the bolts make it a bit slow, but if I end up being bothered by it I can do something about it later. I don't see myself needing to do a ton of bending on any particular day at this moment.
Now I can get stuck into my tray!

[xboxrox]

tortron, do you like hammer banging much..? I bet you DO :) If metal screamed "OUCH" when hit; you would be in Heaven on Earth LOL

Your grinder gives me chills bro :thumbup:

I've gone to a local community college with Industrial Arts Classes (Weld 101 etc...) to use their big machines, like benders & power shears... Maybe there is some similar institution or shop in your area that will allow you access to their facilities..? A kind word & a few bucks to the class instructor or shop supervisor might get you in the door... They will need to know the exact details of what you need done & they might require it be them to do it, not you (insurance coverage)... I once got all the curb rash on a set of aluminum wheels machined off like new at a trade school near the Boeing Factory in Everett, WA... The instructor asked me to write a $20.00 check to the school and he was happy because he needed a project like mine to train his students... They needed two weeks to finish but did a great job on the wheels..!

You seen this site..? https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Sheet-Metal-Bender-Brake/

Mahalo for your entertaining posts & photos ;]

[tortron]

Unfortunately not much where I am, even though I'm technically in the biggest city here. There's months long waiting lists to get into welding night courses. There's a guy running panel shaping classes but it's on request and very expensive. There's "men's sheds" but it's for old blokes and mainly for woodworking. I looked into it but I'm too young (shooting themselves in the foot isn't it?)
Anywhere else around here is would waste half the day sitting in traffic.

[xboxrox]

I think your bender is gonna work just fine, looking good...!

[tortron]

I bent up a new wheel well from 1.8mm steel the other day. Quite a long bend and the thickness really tested my makeshift handles. But it bent ok. The hoop kinda got in the way because it was so wide but would have been ok if I bent up the shorter section instead of the longer. Still needs a few little touch ups to get a nice crisp bend. The play in the hinges doesn't help

[tortron]

Here's another little project.
Needed to unload a Morris engine and store it, I have a spare engine stand so I thought that would be good for keeping it mobile and out of the way.

Only problem is, I need to remove the flywheel.
Can get away with a couple of big screwdrivers to stop the flywheel turning when removing it or the crank bolt. But I'm likely to want to use a stop again. Can buy them, they are the same for minis and all other A series engines, but I wanted it today and I have a shed of tools and steel stock.

A series flywheel lock tool. Will fit minis as well. Works with or without gearbox attached.
22550

8mm plate cut to 6"

Holes drilled about 5" apart to fit the starter bolts and holes

I cut a piece of 20mm rod 2.25" long and then cut a quarter out of it lengthways in my bandsaw.

I then cut a strip of 5mm plate to make the tooth. This is quite close to the tooth profile, so just a few minutes shaping it with a sander.

Then welded the strip to the rod, and the rod to the plate
22551

Works well. I will letter punch what it is and tuck it away with my other home made Morris service tools

[geezer101]

Nice. Nothing like a bespoke tool. I had to modify a ring spanner to get to a gearbox bolt on a Ford Cortina 6. Required bending in 2 places (heat and beat method). Ugly but it worked a treat... hmm, looks like a similar tool could be made for those of us struggling to undo front crank bolts on our truck engines. Wish I had the gear to chop and weld metal :rolleyes:

[tortron]

Yeah I have a box of bent spanners and screwdrivers for odd jobs.
You can make one of these with a piece of broken ring gear as well.

I have to say, minimum of a grinder and flux core mig welder and you are in the door, but what has really changed my life is multiple grinders and drills so I'm not constantly swapping disks or spotwelds drills, a horizontal band saw makes cutting somewhat accurately a snooze, and a pillar drill because I can't drill a straight hole without.
Most of that's picked up pretty cheap and of course not all at once.

To remove crank bolts on a minor at least you can simply attach a long breaker bar and wedge it against the ground and hit the starter for a second. Will loosen right off

[geezer101]

If I don't have a brain fade I use the starter and breaker bar combo to crack crank pulley bolts. Works every time. The only decent bench tool I have is a drill press. Don't get a lot of mileage out of it but it has been probably the best investment I made way back (it is a cheap @ss drill press and the chuck runs eccentrically, but it has done it's job when I've needed it)