Redline Weber Carburetor

[kaltschnee]

I have a 82 power d50 manual trans. Where can I buy an Authentic Redline Weber Carburetor kit

[geezer101]

Hi and welcome to mightyram. Here's a list of legit suppliers - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/2854-Thinking-about-buying-a-weber-carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!?p=27961&viewfull=1#post27961

If your truck is an auto it will need a supplementary kit for the auto kick down cable :thumbup:

[haruman]

He said in the post it's a manual :)

[geezer101]

LOL don't sleep post peeps :slap:

[kaltschnee]

Thank you. I did see this list. The Italian site was very hard and confusing to use even with the translation. The Recommended Redline Weber link did not have my year listed, however I did email them and they replied with like a two page email basically asking to have a picture of my truck. I actually feel a lot better about ordering from a company that wants to visually make sure they send you the right carburetor. I will update this if something goes wrong but I feel better about starting this project now........

Has anyone actually posted a VIDEO tutorial of this Weber conversion yet? I've read it's like a 20+ hour project.

[geezer101]

All 4 cylinder Mitsubishi carb'd engines use the same bolt pattern for their mounting studs. They share the same design with Mazda. This shouldn't take 20+ hours to set up, more like 1.5-2 hours to mount the carb and adapter plate and have the throttle cable hooked up. Add maybe 0.5-1 hour to install an electric fuel pump depending on how you choose to do it. Things to keep in mind - the Weber has an electric choke so you will need to block off/delete the coolant connections for the original carb (unless you're lucky and the stock Mikuni was also electric choked) I removed the heater/coolant barb on the manifold and used a straight threaded brass barb to connect up the heater hose and threaded a metric grub screw into the coolant port that is under the carb base in the manifold. You will also need to delete a bunch of vacuum connections - the only one that matters is the distributor vac advance.
You have 2 options for Weber carbs - the 32/36 (the go-to carb used in most installs) or the 38/38 (becoming more popular and is a slightly more modern design) The 4G52 is not a common engine now but I've always viewed it as an unsung hero. It's more rev happy than the 2.6 and with a couple of minor mods you can get good throttle response out of it and fatten up it's midrange torque.

[kaltschnee]

Not sure, I thought it was a 2.6. I'm still unclear where it tells you if it's 2.0, 2.2, 2.6
Mine is a Model L023G Engine G54B
The Weber rep did mention the 38/38. I think that's how I'll go, but waiting on there response.
I do hope you're right on the install times. I've been fighting a loosing battle with a poorly installed carburetor from the previous owner for about a month trying to get the right parts and trouble shoot it. Finally said to heck with it, start over with a new Weber.

[geezer101]

^It will be a 2.6 (G54B/4G54). If you get the right kit and it's a genuine Weber, it should be a straight forward job. You can run into problems buying a used Weber thinking you've got the right one but there are 4 different throttle configurations which leaves you struggling with setting up a throttle cable that works. Second issue is trying to run the factory mechanical fuel pump with the Weber. They aren't designed for that kind of fuel pressure and adding a regulator eventually kills the stock pump. The Weber also needs the spacer that sits between the adapter and the base of the carb. It 'shouldn't' make a difference but most guys who try to go get away with using a paper gasket had trouble getting it to run right. It acts like an insulator and for some reason, the engine would sometimes run on/diesel without it. :shrug:

[haruman]

I've been running my weber for years with the mechanical pump, no regulator....

[geezer101]

I've been running my weber for years with the mechanical pump, no regulator....

You are one of the lucky few. The vast majority of members who've joined have already done the Weber swap were tying to rectify a running rich and/or dieselling issue (if they didn't get burnt by buying a knock-off). It is recommended by Weber distributors that they have a low pressure, high volume fuel supply to prevent the fuel bowl needle and float from being overridden and consequently causing running issues.

[pennyman1]

some pumps have a feedback line that seems to work fine on a weber, but I still would run with the low pressure high volume pump - it is more consistant, and the pulsations of the mechanical pump will hammer the carb over time.

[kaltschnee]

Does the spacer, that sits between the adapter and the base kit, come with the weber kit? If not, where do I get one? and/or what does it even look like? I have a box of parts and the original carburetor that this vehicle came with. Or it might already have one on this piece of crap they already have installed on mine.

[kaltschnee]

Has anyone actually posted a VIDEO tutorial of this Weber conversion yet? Or the fuel pump/ regulator upgrade? Are there any videos posted of any upgrades??? I didn't see a tab for them on the Might Ram 50 website.

[OG Arrow]

I'd be VERY interested in the answers to All your questions, as I'm right behind you in needing a Carb fix.

Last year, in order to pass smog, the shop I always take my cars too, said the choke was all messed up and couldn't get it to pass smog.
So they removed the choke components off the carb, and tuned it a bit and it passed.

They said "here you go, it's passed, but it's going to hard to cold start it."
Of course it was warm when I picked it up so it ran great. I wanted to take it out last weekend to a little gathering,
and wouldn't you know it, I couldn't get it started. :o(
Finally with a Lot of time and patience and a can of starter fluid, I got it started. And when it warmed up, yes, it ran just fine.
But I can't deal with this super difficult / non starting issue ,,, so I think I need a new carb as well.

So Please keep this thread going and let us know what you find and how it goes ,,,

:thumbup:

[OG Arrow]

And can anybody speak to the issue of which carb would be better for our applications,
between the 32/36 DGEV and the 38 DGES Outlaw ???

And any thoughts / experience / pros / cons with which Choke set up ? Manual or Electric ??

[geezer101]

Always go with the electric choke - pros are: easy to hook up, makes the manifold look less cluttered, removes potential coolant leaks, easy to adjust, easy to replace and are readily available. Cons are: need to delete coolant connections so it requires either plugs or the coolant barbs replaced with a single straight barb for the heater hose, coolant port should be sealed as a safeguard (under the base of the carby) Using the 38/38 will ensure a full power curve and has some breathing space for a bigger cam and valves, bigger ports and a more aggressive tune (a 2.6 with serious head work won't run out of breath @ 8,000 rpm)

[pennyman1]

if its a manual - either the dgev or dfav will work. For the automatic, get the dfav with the kickdown adaptor linkage. The dfav rotates the same as the stock carb, the dgev rotates opposite and is in the front of the carb instead of the rear.