Power Problem.

[zzion]

Hi There.
This is my first post.thought I'd cut to the chase.
I was a member of the old forums.
I have a bone stock 89 ram 50 sport 2600 g54b 4x4.
I only use it for hunting and fishing.
It had a rebuilt short block and new carb installed before I got it.
I suspect the mechanic used the old head bolts. Bout every 6 months I have to put a block sealer in to stop blow back in ther cooling system.
Here is the problem I have a new boat 16' 30hp. The boat motot and trailer is just a little too much for the 4 banger. The engine runs perfect If there is no head wind I can get 50-60mph.
If there is say a 15mph head wind it will only get 45-50 mph and will over heat after about 15 miles. This time of year I may have to stop a few minutes to let it cool.
I simply need more engine. A healthy v6 or straight six would be great. The head has jet valves and is total junk. A new head, headers and carb should completely solve the problem. I would only consider a bigger engine if it would bolt right in to the motor mounts and trans with no problems. Alturnatevly my neighbor has a Bronco with a 351 and big tires.
It doesn't get gas milage. There are a lot of things I like about my ram50. I have 2,(one for parts). they are paid for. 2 sets of wheels and tires. and a camper shell to keep my hunting and fishing gear out of the weather.
What is the sensible way to go?
Thanks for the support.

[camoit]

you can always put on a head from a 2.0 with no jet valves. It's a direct swap over. There was a thread on the old board about the swap over. It would be the easy way to go. Oh and never tow anything in 5th gear or you will toast the trany. I learned that the hard way.
http://mightyram50.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=105&t=1181

[4doorciv]

To me adding that sealer is a major problem. I don't trust anything atop leak because they are known to expand seals, and most of the time cause them to overexpand causeing failures. With your truck as is, you shoud do a compression test and cylinder leakdown test. If you are really looking to engine alternatives, you can go with another 2.4 or maybe a 2.6. We do have a v6 model mightymax and ram 50 but I don't have much knowledge on them. A turbo motor swap to me would be better then a v6 or a v8 IMO.

[zzion]

Its easier to find a 2.6l head on ebay. I let a caravan head slip through my fingers a few years ago. What is the model number of the 2.0l head or others that work.
Those older parts are becoming impossible to find locally.
I can get the power I need with a new head , head bolts and headers.
That would solve the over heating too.

[pennyman1]

There are many heads available on ebay - if you go the 2.0 head swap, its off a g52b 2.0 from 79-82 - 83 and up is a whole different design from a different engine series. Get a set of ARP headstuds and you'll never blow a gasket again. To really do it right, you need to get the block boiled out to get the block seal out of the passages, especially since you used it more than once.

[zzion]

To really do it right, you need to get the block boiled out to get the block seal out of the passages, especially since you used it more than once.
Is there anyway to boil it out with out removing the block from the truck?
If I were to pull the engine I might as well put a v6 in or a v8.

[pennyman1]

Not real sure you can clean it in the truck - all the freeze plugs got to come out of the block to do it right. You could try to run a mix of vinegar and water in the motor to operating temp, then let it cool and drain it - then flush it with water until clear - its an old trick to clean calcium deposits out of the cooling system and won't damage the rad or other cooling system parts.