bench seat

[85Ram50]

Has anyone tried the Seat Covers Unlimited cover?
Does anyone know of a maker of covers that go directly over the foam?

I put add a leaf springs in and it rides a lot harder now. So It motivated me to go to the upholsterer shop and I got some foam. 1" #70 2.6lb. Apparently the 70 indicates firmness. They let me try two a 52 that was 2.9 lb and a the 70 -2.6lb It was like a brand new car seat sitting on that sample! I want to remove the existing vinyl and glue it to the bench and shape it then I was hoping to get a new cover to slide back on.

[geezer101]

There 'might' be reskins available for seats, but where - I don't know. Every possibility there will be something close in dimensions that will fit. Is the vinyl shot? If it's not, they are actually pretty easy to take apart. There's a bunch of small metal rings that are crushed closed on them around the wire seat chassis. Just pry them apart gently and peel the vinyl cover off. There are possibly some other wire retainers running through the seat cover inside of calico fabric pleats as well. I've done seat upholstery as a course and skinning most old school seats are easy as :thumbup:

[85Ram50]

It's split on a seam where I sit. I am going to take it off and if it comes easy I may ask a seamstress shop in the next town over to repair the seam and put a patch over the seat area that is wearing through. The worst part about this truck has always been this seat. It felt so nice when I test those pieces yesterday. $40 for foam plus some work and whatever sewing and patching will cost as opposed to the $500-$650 dollar rebuild. I'll take it.

[Chargerx3]

I hate the stock bench seats. They dont support your lower back and make it uncomfortable for long drives. I yanked mine and found a pair of supportive, but not bulky Hyundai Tiberon Seats I fabbed up to fit. Even have adjustable back lumbar settings. Much nicer.


https://i.imgur.com/nbh0ncD.jpg

[85Ram50]

i've already invested in some foam. I found a thread by Noahwins while searching for factory replacement seat covers. He found some but his amazon link is dead. I've messaged him hopefully he remembers the brand name or company.
I've taken the covers off and the bench is in good shape I cleaned it and painted it. The cover is bad. When I removed the cover on the back it had old black mold looking stuff on it. I would assume that is from before I solved the water intrusion issue. So I am definitely not going to reuse it. The back pad is still hog ringed to the frame and since it otherwise looked to be in good shape I decided not to remove it. I will probably be adding a layer of that same foam to it as well.

[Chargerx3]

All the power to you then. I just couldnt stand the lack of support they had and mine was still in like new shape.

[85Ram50]

thanks. I ended up sewing it myself The top cover looks a lot better after sitting in the sun sprayed with bleach so I'm gonna try a vinyl repair kit on the few bare spots that still show cloth and then some vinyl paint.

[85Ram50]

Progress so far Bench with added foam. 23176 23177
This is what the bench looked like before I tore it down. 23179

[85Ram50]

So the other day I was trying to pull the newly painted bottom cover back on over the new foam and it was not going well. I took a break. When I came inside I had more email responses from seat covering places. as usual they were saying no then one guy who said no sent another saying that he had just realized the D50 was the same as a mighty max and he had a pattern for that. We exchanged emails and this morning we spoke. He was worried his pattern had different seat belt loops, He called them pull through. Turns out he has two MM patterns 79-80 and 80-86 is how they are labeled. He did not know the difference or why. Anyway I sent him my seat cover so that he can compare them. Looks like I should have a new seat cover in a week or so!

[geezer101]

Cool - fresh comfy seats! Yeah there were some design changes from the first production run which would've been the 'MA' model Mitsubishi L200/Forte as far as the interior is concerned (and the low spec engine options) I'd like to get new carpet but they aren't cheap. I may opt for a JY scrounge and see what carpet from a newer car might fit with some jigging. There's going to be overhang I can trim off and some holes that will be exposed but but it can't be worse than worn out, caramel coloured carpet...

[85Ram50]

:) When I first got her she was bare floor like I have now. I got some batting and cheap carpet at a fabric store and used spray glue to lay it down. There is this on RA but IDK that shipping would be worth it https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1985,ram+50,2.0l+122cid+l4,1096208,interior, flooring,1264

[MrPaco]

Could you do the same spray you did on the bed to the floor of the cab while you have the seats out?
The prep work might not be worth it, although there's probably a lot less rust, if any...

[85Ram50]

It seems silly to make a new thread since this is all one project.

Yes Mr Paco I was thinking that same thing. It will be a pain to get rid of the fuzz though. I might, will probably, go with a cheaper roll on version. I had rust on a couple of the freeze plug drains and the jack storage mount.

OK Today I took off the dash pad and the defroster cowl. I have pics and questions.Mainly does the rest of the dash come out without cutting it?
The pictures are of what looks like might be a computer, I think I had AC in this before I owned it and there is a rusty spot on the left hand under the dash that looks foreboding and I do not know what the plate bolted over it is for. Maybe access to the wipers? Oh yea I need to get the air directional registers? for each end of the dash pad.

Rusty spot first 23190 Then is this a computer?? 23191 Can I remove this without cutting? 23192

Two pics of the removed dash pad painted and sanded to be coated again then repaired. Oh the screws had torn free or the hole expanded. The defroster cowl is what was holding it down.
2319323194

Edit-Forgot to mention the bottom screws were already out on the pad. Forgot I did that years ago. The thing holding it from me pulling it was a threaded rod with a 8mm nut on it directly above the ebrake pull and the four nuts holding the defroster cowl down. Take the gauge cluster out to get at it. it will save you time. I only had to loosen the nuts on the cowl. If yours is in better shape than mine there is a string of screws across the top that you have to take out the defroster cowl to get at. You need a 2" Phillips head screwdriver for this job for the glove box and those screws on top.

[geezer101]

Yeah unfortunately if you need to do anything more than a surface rust repair, the entire dash chassis is spot welded into the cab. The only thing you can remove without drilling or cutting is the steering column/brake booster mount (on my to do list is mod and paint this thing). The Gen 1 dash pads look sooo much better in black, don't they? I did my column cover too while it was all apart. My '85 Gen 1 didn't have the feedback system for the carb.

[85Ram50]

Geezer, Are you saying that computer thing is a carb feedback unit for the Mikuni?
I had to quit for the day since I ran out of paint. That nut has a matching one just above it and that metal piece comes out. I think I will remove it tomorrow and investigate.
Any suggestions for things to fix while this is all open?

[geezer101]

Geezer, Are you saying that computer thing is a carb feedback unit for the Mikuni?
I had to quit for the day since I ran out of paint. That nut has a matching one just above it and that metal piece comes out. I think I will remove it tomorrow and investigate.
Any suggestions for things to fix while this is all open?

Err, I'm pretty sure lol. There isn't anything else the truck would have that required that kind of module (your truck is a manual shift so there isn't a control module for the trans anyway) Easy way to be sure is trace the harness out to it's source and you should find it's connected to the carb systems. Another thing you can retire from the truck to tidy it up, along with the spaghetti can of vacuum hoses.
What were they thinking when they made these things.. vacuum control circuits, solenoid shut-offs and a complicated carb set up - fun :roulette:

[85Ram50]

They were thinking "why don't we just use what we have instead of spending money on doing it better."

Mr Paco, I got a can of spray on Dupli Color bed liner I am going to try on the cab floor.

[85Ram50]

It started raining on me so I figured it was a good time to post this. The thing with the rust under it is a cleanout door for the cowl. That rust is from the mouse nest I was told was in my heater and had been removed for $225! After I vacuumed it a lot of the metal is gone. I have ospho'd the heck out of it and the insides and will rebuild it with JB weld once that works its magic. A couple pics of the passenger side which is clean.
23197 23198 23199

[geezer101]

That isn't pretty. So someone scammed the PO on alleged repair work done to fix this? How there wasn't rivers of filthy water running down from there is beyond me. At least this isn't directly a structural part of the cab like a door jamb or a cab pillar.

[85Ram50]

It was me who paid to get the mouse nest removed. The PO told me about it he did not know where it was. The shop I paid told me it was in the heater. He lived in the forest and it had been parked in a car port for a while. It is basically repaired. I have a piece of sheet metal cut and fit with the bottom bolt stuck through it. I have a rag soaked in Ospho sitting on the rusty stuff. I need to get more Ospho and I will really soak it until its black then I'll attach the sheet metal.

I've taken out the heater flushed the core with vinegar let it soak a bit then flushed it real good. It seems like it was flowing OK to me but IDK how much it should take. Any way there was a lot of dirt I could not see when I grabbed it and installed it. Those compression clips are no longer rusty anyway. :) I cleaned it of all dirt and I forgot to remove the little coil thingy and messed it up. The fan quit on me while I was refilling the radiator.
I'm going to a JY tomorrow that has one of these I hope there are enough parts to make the drive worth it.

EDIT- IN the FSM its called the Heater Resister in the diagram of the heater.
Anyone got a part number for the blower motor resistor?

EDIT2- I solved the problem. I got another used one that was not damaged.

[geezer101]

Well, it's keeping you entertained :rolleyes: But on the upside you have been vigilant and taken pretty much the whole truck apart in your quest to fix it properly. Rust in a place like the air channel can manifest itself in much more serious problem like eating through the firewall or the hood hinge recess. I've used citric acid powder solution to clean heater cores (I pumped it through the heater core with a faulty pressure washer on continuous cycle and it really broke up all the crap in it) The heater blower units aren't too tricky to recondition. Once you pull one apart you're glad you did - you wouldn't want to breathe the stuff you find sitting in the casing or have it blowing around the inside of a cab.

[85Ram50]

Anyone know what tool is necessary to remove the nut around the light dimmer switch?

[geezer101]

Anyone know what tool is necessary to remove the nut around the light dimmer switch?

No special tool - use the tip of a flat blade screwdriver and rest it in one of the grooves on the edge of the plastic retainer ring and try to work the retainer anti clockwise like a regular nut or use needle nose pliers and gently twist it loose. Once you have it loose just use your fingers.

[85Ram50]

I was doing that and slipping off and cutting the plastic. I ended up using needle noes vise grips. <1/8 turn at a time until it was loose enough for my fingers.

[85Ram50]

No pics today. I am updating.
I had grabbed a broken dash pad with that heater the other day to experiment on. I tried some bondo glass but used too much hardener. it would ahve worked if I did it right. So if you want to flock your dash that is definitely a way to go. I also used contact cement and foam pipe covering cut up to fill the gaps. You want to do that before putting any coating on top. It works well. I also used VLP which smelled and worked a lot like Shoe Goo except it is more liquid. So I used shoe goo and it works pretty well. If I had more skill my dash would probably look nice and smooth. It does not sand easy. As it is at least my dash is solid again. Look on YT for dash repair vids to get an idea.
I got the patch in on that cowl cleanout, was only able to use the top screw, I attached sheet metal with self tapping screws and JB weld to fill out the gaps.
My dash is in with the new vents, all duct work has been washed and installed with duct tape on the joints.
On the dupli color bed liner spray, it sucked. It clogged frequently then worked randomly and without warning. I do not recommend it. But the quart can of the same stuff was fine with a paint brush. I sprayed the cab with primer and some color on the hard steel where the trim would mount if this was a better model. The color isn't as nice as it look on my computer but oh well it's new and clean.
I found some trim for a carpeted rig. Apparently the trim along the rocker is mounted in square holes in the rocker. I am going to cut off those square detent, there is only a hole for a screw on top, since I do not have those holes and use some adhesive caulk.

[85Ram50]

I have finished painting the interior and putting it back together. You can see the top of the dash pad is solid but obviously it has seen better days. When I get around to it a coverlay dash cover will do it nice. The floor is painted with bedliner the dash and steering column/horn cover and mirror with vinyl paint. I picked up those wires and had them up until it dried. The seat upholstery is paid for and carpet ordered.
23239 23240 23241

OK here is a picture of the experimental pad with the bondo glass before I ground it off. 23242
Inside corner repair of the dash pad that is in 23243 I ground a lot of that off before I put the Shoe Goo on it and it was still very tight for the instrument surround.

Here is a picture of the top of that experimental pad after I did some repair before the bondo glass incident previously shown :) 23244

EDIT- I grabbed a lot of screws and bolts that weren't rusted while I was on my JY runs to get this stuff back together right.

[geezer101]

It's not perfect but it was never going to be. It's still a vast improvement on what it would've looked like before. I have done a dash pad repair/reskin and it's not that easy, especially on a first try so you've done a pretty good job :) If you were going to wrap it in vinyl fabric, I would've used expanda-foam like plumbers use around pipe work and then cut and sanded it back. The cab floor is great! That'll withstand almost anything that's thrown at it now.

[claych]

^^ +1
'85ram, vast improvement indeed ! looking good!
& +1 on the screws, clips, push pins, j nuts, & etc...

[MrPaco]

The floor looks pretty good. You can probably even hose it down to clean it when it gets muddy (if the water has a way to drain out).
Nice job.

[85Ram50]

No drain and no plans to hose it out :) I had a water problem that turns out to have at least partly the rusted out dvr side cowl clean out. I had been thinking it was the cowl drain backing up from the lower fenders being clogged up with garbage. So I wanted to waterproof it for the possibility of that happening again. I was lucky only those freeze plugs (which are the drains technically) rusted up. That rubber grommet where the wire harness goes through the floor could be a drain too.

I got some thin rubber textured on one side for the kick pads. They look nice. I also have some 3/8 sheet foam rubber for the headliner half glued in tonight. I will complete it tomorrow.

Edit- Got a picture of the kick pad. I may glue it down. If you manage to find something like this I cut it with my tin snips. The red one with the offset for cutting straight and curves.
23260

[85Ram50]

If this I am proud! I made new door cards. I used the old connectors as I could not buy new ones locally. I had to glue in a couple of the inserts the tabs pop into on the door as they were coming out when I removed it. Get a plastic too for doing this it's too riskytrying it by hand. Even new this stuff isn't as string as you'd like it to be. I took an old doorcard from the JY not as warped as my own. I made it fit my cutouts on the door and traced it onto new card stock, 1/8"x4'x8' sheet $13. the cards I got were from a better model than mine and I did not grab the arm rests or the screw inserts for it which are longer so I had to use my old card to get the arm rest holes right. I have it covered in headliner foam now and I will either get the same vinyl from the guy making my seat cover or some dark leather color I saw at the fabric store when I got the foam.
23270

[geezer101]

Nice work :thumbup: It's not as easy as it looks either. The good thing is you can buy the plastic threaded mounting lugs to replace the originals, but I've found that some need a little sanding to fit into the knock outs in the sheet metal as they can be really hard to press in. A word of advice - don't use spray glue to attach the new material if you have foam padding. It will leave permanent dents in the door trim the minute you touch it.

[85Ram50]

Thanks, I surprised myself. I was hurting a lot while I did it. It didn't strike me how nice it looked until I looked at the picture.
If I don't use spray glue how would I attach it? I've already attached the headliner foam materiel to the card with spray contact cement and it hasn't done that. I let it dry before I put them together.

[geezer101]

If you are going to wrap it in fabric you can only glue it from the back face of the door card where it folds over around the edges. The door grab handle and lock handle surround will keep it pinned in place and the speaker mount will help as well.

[85Ram50]

I want to use vinyl. I am hoping to get some of the materiel they are making my seat covers with to do the cards and the headliner.

Edit-I made new sun visors. not yet complete. the one that works is glued together, the other is awaiting me finding one at the JY which is closed for labor Day. I will cover them in headliner cloth and eventually if I can manage it vinyl. The middle picture is of the inside where I glued the frame into some foam rubber. The board side will be the side that faces inside where you hand will be putting pressure on it. The black stuff is a kind of expanded foam rubber, Basically a fullly petro product with no rubber in it at all. It smells like recycled tires.
23283 23284 23282

[85Ram50]

I have not covered them yet but I got the parts fixed and installed them to make sure they fit right. had to adjust one. Ignore that paint color. It was on sale for $3 and change a can and it looked a lot more like candy apple red than whorehouse purple on the computer. :)

23310 23311

[85Ram50]

Carpet is in. got the cheapest one off RA. It still had mass backing under where your feet go. Most of the cutting is along the back & sides then for the steering column. and gas pedal, and a small cutout for the heater mount on the bottom passenger side.Not my best work but its nicer than it has been since I owned it :) I guess I'll have to call and ask about when the seat cover and roll of vinyl are shipping on Monday.

23328 23329

[geezer101]

It looks like the floor of an old school Peugeot 205 gti. Looks awesome!

Geezer approves :thumbup:

[85Ram50]

Thanks Geez :))

[85Ram50]

Good news bad news. Got the upholstery and it is gorgeous. the bottom also is not made properly. I have not tried the top yet as I haven't got the foam attached to it and it keeps raining off and on.
I think maybe the salesman's people did not actually copy my OE upholstery and allow for the 1 inch of foam I added. That added foam might not matter but making the skirt several inches shorter and not having the slot for the wires sure does. I emailed the salesman and he said he was out of the office and would reply tomorrow.

[85Ram50]

I WAS WRONG. There is no problem. Well he made them differently than I thought we had agreed to and they are harder to put on than I had thought.
Turns out around 10ish today I went out and it was warmer so I tried to do the top of the seat and it went right together. I tried again on the bottom and it was still fighting me but the sun came out. So I put it in the sun for a bit and when I went back out it went right together. It is like having a new truck sitting in it. I haven't driven it yet I had to eat but the seat is great.
Here is the website https://seatzmfg.com/ I dealt with Bryan. This is the guy who responded to me that he doesn't have the D50 then realized it was a MM and wrote back saying he does. Edit the new cover was $140+ shipping I got 8 ft of vinyl to do the headliner, door cards, visors for about $55 shipped

Pictures.Before 23347
After 23345 23346

[geezer101]

That is a top notch reskin. They did a great job of making it and you got it pulled in to shape really well. Did your truck come with a hood lining? That'll be next on the list or it will feel half finished :lmao:

[85Ram50]

It drives a lot nicer. It feels weird sitting up high and level.

[royster]

That seat looks absolutely great!!! You should be proud of your good work. Wow, it looks like a professional installation! Kudos!

It's an interesting contrast to the carpeting - in a good way.

Can't wait to see how your door panels come out. ("Cards" for Geezer).

[85Ram50]

Thank You Royster. The cards are iffy. Driver side nice passenger side I got to tricky when I should have just made another one. It is in right now. The top cut line was a bit wavy so I used some corner bead to make the line straight. The bead did not stay flat and it gives a visible second edge. The driver was fine so I did not do that again. I need to get a clip for the window crank and the doors will be done. Next stop gluing up the vinyl on the headliner. Should have done that before installing teh seat and carpet :) I'm still not sure how I will do the visors. I may go to a seamstress or upholsterer to get them covered.

Here is a picture of teh driver side 23349

[85Ram50]

Everything except the visors is done. The professionalism on the bench upholstery is mostly due to the manufacturer who made it. I just installed it. I ended up trying and succeeding in removing the corner bead I used along the top of the passenger card. I used my mothers Iron to smooth out the line it made in the vinyl. Used a doubled towel and steam to do it. You can see the wobbly spot I was trying to hide above the handle. Nothing left for me to do now but make the motor run right. Maybe next summer. Lots of yardwork to get caught up on.
23356 23357

EDIT- I was quoted $400+ for a spray on bedliner and $500-600 for reupholstering the bench. For about that much doing it myself I think I spent <$800, I got both of them and a repainted interior, rebuilt heater, repaired dash, new door cards, door opener arm rattle removed, carpet and headliner.

[xboxrox]

Fabulous work 85Ram50 :thumbup: Looks like factory new & seat belts done nicely too... Great job..!

Moreover (military jargon) so you live in the solar system & used the Sun's heat to "Get-R-Done" :sunny:


Thanks for sharing the source link; working with guys like you (who share info) was always a pleasure...
George

[85Ram50]

Thank you Xboxrox. It looks a lot better in pics, but maybe that's me.
I painted the whole seat belt. If you go that route they get stiff and do not want to retract easy. They are still sluggish/stiff. When I mounted them I ran them over the top hook to try to work them loose. I expect over time they will get better. I had pulled them all the way out, clamped it with needle nose vise grips and painted them. I had seen a guy on YT do that to clean his which apparently helps to make them regain fluid movement when they start getting sluggish. The 85 belts roll locks when it is out of vertical.

Found another thing I was hoping to not have to do. Yesterday I drove it and noticed water on the inside of the passenger door card. Just one streak near the front. So I think I am going to have to change the door seals.EDIT- rain stopped so I took a look at the seal. there was dirt in the area above the drip line. Cleaned it fingers crossed.

[xboxrox]

I like your enthusiasm, these trucks leak like that, mine does too (sometimes)... Search the forum for the fix, it's not the door seal far as I can remember... The wrecking yards of PicknPull in California usually had a few D50 & MM trucks as a supply of parts (seat belts) I just hope your orbit in the solar system passes by a PicknPull... BTW, your headliner looks better than any I've seen so far; nice work..!

What's this about getting your engine or (?) to run right..?

[85Ram50]

Well the engine has seen better days and I fear I have caused the problems.
First I messed with the Weber the PO had installed and that seems to have been the start of my problems back in 07 or so.. I then paid someone to find the mouse nest and they claimed they had taken the heater out and removed it. I later found out they never did that. IDK what if anything they did. I blew the balancer belt but did not know I had because it kept running. I had no idea about the balancer. Anyway one day several years ago I was driving north to get some lumber and blew the head gasket from over heat. got it towed home and that is when I found out about the balancer and started doing my own work. I also found out the heater valve did not work. So that is how I determined the guy never took the heater out or he did and did not bother to check the thing worked right when he refilled the thing with coolant. I replaced the head with new bolts and started paying closer attention. IDK what my MPG was before but right now its low 200 miles per tank with a 2.0 motor!. I still get trouble starting it and have to pour gas into the carb if I let it sit a few days even since I put in the electric pump. I have a new Weber in it and I have not messed with it at all. I suspect something is wrong with the motor or how I have it set up. I also have replaced the dizzy and coil in the last couple years. I would like to just rebuild it or put in a long block and get a new intake as well. Maybe next year.

[geezer101]

The fuel shouldn't back log out of the line but I'm thinking about using one way check valves in my truck when I've done the swap. I don't know if that's a good idea or not but my bigger plan is running 2 stock fuel tanks and having a control switch to change between tanks. As for the outsourcing of jobs, there's always an element of risk. You never know what you're paying for but it comes down to skill sets and resources if you wanna DIY. Get burnt enough times and it will motivate you to try doing stuff under your own steam. Your jetting is wrong for the Weber on the 2.0 Replacing the jets with correct ones will massively transform performance - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/5024-Weber-jetting-correct?p=44111&viewfull=1#post44111

[xboxrox]

Well 85Ram50 we all must work at keeping these vintage trucks & motors running decently -- you are not alone..!

I am blessed with having a completely stock truck but it needed paint -- $$$ (I'd like an electric fan to do my part for global warming :^)

[85Ram50]

Your jetting is wrong for the Weber on the 2.0 Replacing the jets with correct ones will massively transform performance - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/5024-Weber-jetting-correct?p=44111&viewfull=1#post44111

Why would they send a carb with the wrong jets? This is the one designated for my truck/motor. Off the top of my head its the K610 kit.

[xboxrox]

Best Starting of my stock 2.6L
Winter -- just turn the key
Summer -- press gas pedal once & wait 30 seconds

Maybe try experimenting more?

Edit: Summer crank it if no quick start keep cranking & pump accelorator half way one time -- it starts

[geezer101]

Why would they send a carb with the wrong jets? This is the one designated for my truck/motor. Off the top of my head its the K610 kit.

They're generally jetted for 2.6 applications. If the jets are too big it would explain the poor fuel economy and not a great improvement in performance from the get go. I don't know the policies of the vendors that sell them but unless they have some way of allowing customers to pre order the size of the jetting, it will be up to the installer to set it up specifically for their application.

[85Ram50]

The paperwork that came with the carb from Redline Weber said it was jetted properly for the application. I suppose that could have wiggle room. Anyway I did a compression test and a leak down test which has me thinking I did something wrong when I put the new head wp timing belt etc on. I posted the test in gen 1

[xboxrox]

Well, there's been some fixing stuff on the engine in your truck's history; not all original configuration now... My truck is all stock engine wise & there was a big thick pile of service records that the US Govt (Navy) had that came with the truck... I only glanced at the records but there was a lot fixed + regular maintenance -- wished I could remember the name/address of the Southern California parts house they sourced from... All I really remember, is the truck came in a shipment of seven trucks from Nagoya via Portland, Oregon to NAWS... Records are gone now dangit...

Anyway, if me & I had a house with garage (willing wife & $) and my truck ran good enuff to be on the road AND there was a wrecking yard in my neighborhood (PicknPull etc) AND I was ten years younger THEN I might try pulling an original engine & rebuild it & keep it all original to transplant it back into my truck...

Autozone & others sell rebuilt original carburetors for these trucks (the carburetor model #) is under a metal ring at the top opening of the carb it comes off after removing two screws -- you need to remove that ring to read all the numbers... Grind or drill those screws out if need be :^)

It's a trade off, original lame but steady & modified fun but troublesome... ? :shrug:
Happy Days with your truck my man..!

[85Ram50]

xboxrox thanks. It is running OK and starts right up as long as I remember to start it every third day. I was hoping the electric fuel pump would cure that problem.
Its mostly for hauling stuff to my house. Definitely nicer to drive and I'm still not used to that. Gas gauge is moving, not sure its accurate as it went below F then back up to F on the last trip and I'm only at 40+ miles on this tank. It tends to drop fast once it hits 3/4. I am going to have to make some time to try setting the timing again to see if that stops the idle from increasing as it gets warm.
It just occurred to me. If this thing had an OE AC what or where is the setting that would turn the engine idle up ? I'm pretty sure the PO told me he removed it among all the other stuff he took off.

[xboxrox]

Here are some photos of the dashpot idle adjusting from the Haynes Manual: (I dunno if that's the cause but you could check)
23537235382353923540

[pennyman1]

Geezer - keep in mind that using check valves will cause a pressure drop across the check to open it, so use a pump that will give you the pressure you want after the check valves - use a 1/2 to 1 lb check valve to minimize the pressure drop.

[geezer101]

Geezer - keep in mind that using check valves will cause a pressure drop across the check to open it, so use a pump that will give you the pressure you want after the check valves - use a 1/2 to 1 lb check valve to minimize the pressure drop.

Yeah, this was my main concern. If I want to pull off my crazy idea I have 2 options - check valves or electrically controlled solenoids to shut off individual fuel supplies. Check valves - cheap and simple (but might cause fuel delivery issues). Solenoids - expensive (have to run something that will like having fuel pushed through it and require a control circuit to swap between active fuel lines)

[85Ram50]

Thanks Xbox but that is all Greek to me and too small for me to see. I doubt it is the cause since this thing only has a very few wires connected to the motor.