Correct timing setting for Type W engine?

[Kerrigan]

For the 1980 D-50 with a non-California 2.6 ltr w/5-speed the factory manual says 7* BTDC at 750rpm hot, WITHOUT disconnecting the vacuum advance hose.
The timing light instruction book says disconnect the hose.
I assume for this engine the timing is set with the vacuum advance hose connected, as speced in the factory manual.
It does say to disconnect it to check the centrificgual advance mechanism.
Somebody had set it to 5*, and installed Champion plugs, one of which didn't look like it was working very much.
Replaced them with the proper NGK and it seems to run better.

[camoit]

Looks like you found the manual section. So I take it you answered your own question? If she pings just back it down 1 deg or use 98 octane fuel.

Welcome to the site and thank you for the donation....
Please enjoy the site, including our new radio station that you can become the DJ on. Once you make requests it will play after the 2 songs in Que play. You can program up to 90 minutes of music at a time.

[PowerRam348]

welcome to the site. as for setting the timing, i was always told to diconnect the vacuum advance when setting the timing. but it more or less comes down to preference. again, welcome to the site and there is lots of info here and good folks to talk to if you got questions.

[Kerrigan]

I decided to go with the instructions in the factory manual, but now wonder if there is a good reason to disconnect it when setting the timing. I was thinking at idle it wouldn't be moving the advance cause pretty much no vacuum factor until pushing the accelerator. Is this correct thinking?
It was set at 5* BTDC, which was a little "lo"?

I usually run the middle grade of gasoline, Chervon.

Was getting a rattle when it was cold going up an incline. Could have been the Champion plug?

What do you think?


welcome to the site. as for setting the timing, i was always told to diconnect the vacuum advance when setting the timing. but it more or less comes down to preference. again, welcome to the site and there is lots of info here and good folks to talk to if you got questions.

[Kerrigan]

I was able to purchase a Dodge dealer factory manual for the 1980 D-50, so it's from when the truck was made basically.

Could the information in it be "dated" or "stale"?


Looks like you found the manual section. So I take it you answered your own question? If she pings just back it down 1 deg or use 98 octane fuel.

Welcome to the site and thank you for the donation....
Please enjoy the site, including our new radio station that you can become the DJ on. Once you make requests it will play after the 2 songs in Que play. You can program up to 90 minutes of music at a time.

[camoit]

The manual is correct. The instructions from the timing light is geared toward Ford and Chevy. To bad you did not find us before you picked up the manual, as we have them in PDF.

[PowerRam348]

like i said, disconnecting the vacuum advance when setting the timing comes down to preference. before i went distributorless i always disconnected my vacuum advance when setting the timing. i set my timing around 10 degrees though. with the distributorless ignition i run at 13 degrees. some people disconnect the vacuum advance altogether (but that generally tends to be hit or miss depending on what you want your engine to do).

[pennyman1]

I have run my 1980 2.6 at 10 degrees btdc for about all its life - I'm the original and only owner. If you choose to disconnect the vac advance, be sure you plug the line, or your timing will be off due to the vacuum leak of the disconnected hose. I always adjusted all my D-50s with it connected; running a 2.6 with the vac advance disconnected will kill the performance due to retarding the curve of the distributor to mechanical advance only. I had an article in a mag from long ago that showed how to modify the distro for mechanical advance only, but it hardly seemed worth it, not to mention I can't find the mag now.

[Kerrigan]

It's nice to have this source of information for sure, especially the PDF manuals.
I picked up the hard copy decades ago when I got the truck from the original owner.


The manual is correct. The instructions from the timing light is geared toward Ford and Chevy. To bad you did not find us before you picked up the manual, as we have them in PDF.

[Kerrigan]

It's running much stronger now with the 7* timing on 89 octane gas. Can't seem to get the idle down below 950 rpm hot. Maybe because I run it a little on the rich side, not much though.


I have run my 1980 2.6 at 10 degrees btdc for about all its life - I'm the original and only owner. If you choose to disconnect the vac advance, be sure you plug the line, or your timing will be off due to the vacuum leak of the disconnected hose. I always adjusted all my D-50s with it connected; running a 2.6 with the vac advance disconnected will kill the performance due to retarding the curve of the distributor to mechanical advance only. I had an article in a mag from long ago that showed how to modify the distro for mechanical advance only, but it hardly seemed worth it, not to mention I can't find the mag now.

[camoit]

Turn in the mix screw. That should lower the idle.

[Kerrigan]

How is the best way without DEQ test instruments to tell I'm not making it run too lean? Don't want to burn the valves ...


Turn in the mix screw. That should lower the idle.

[camoit]

You will tell if your going to far. Hard to start, won't idle, You just turn 1/4 turn at a time From what you have described above the carb is set at the point for the lean idle drop. Does it "run on" or diesel. If so that is another sine it's rich and the throttle plates are open just a touch to far.

[LSR Mike]

Read the plugs to tell rich or lean, nice brown = just right, Black & sooty = too rich, white = too lean.

http://www.diymyride.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/plug-reading.png

[Kerrigan]

When I pulled the plugs they were a brownish color.
Replaced the Champions with NGKs.
Also discovered the throttle idle stop screw is very difficult to turn, or get at with a screwdriver. I bet it's just too high.
Maybe I can get a small socket on it ...


Read the plugs to tell rich or lean, nice brown = just right, Black & sooty = too rich, white = too lean.

http://www.diymyride.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/01/plug-reading.png

[camoit]

You guys beat me to the punch. But here is the new wiki page. How to read a spark plug.