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View Full Version : Electronic box under/behind lighter/ ashtray and on hump behind console?



Cchuckster11
07-02-2020, 01:50 PM
Please help. Ive got a 94 4x4 mm 3.0 5 sp. truck. What is the box where i mentioned in subject line. Mine has a plug not connected just sitting beside plug in port. Also blend for heat/ac settings was not working according to previous owner. Everything else seems to be working. Id bet you know this answerand what this mysterious electronic box is and what it does. ECU? Thanks for your time. Cchuckster11

25277

camoit
07-02-2020, 02:02 PM
Post up a picture of it.

geezer101
07-02-2020, 03:59 PM
Hmm, mystery box... the heater should be easy to fix though. Look at the cable routing and see if any retainer clips are missing on the sides of the heater case. They either go missing or are loose and don't grip the cable sleeves. There will be marks where the clips have held the cable sleeves so you won't have to guess what location to secure them for correct function.

Cchuckster11
07-02-2020, 04:19 PM
Thank you sir for the heater blend controls education. How many am i looking for pkease. I can see one on drivers side. I appreciate your help.

royster
07-02-2020, 05:33 PM
The mystery box seems to be an after-market device. Is it connected with that wire that goes toward the shifter? I'm fairly confident it is not the ECU.

Cchuckster11
07-02-2020, 05:36 PM
Pretty sure its a stock electronic something, and its unplugged so somebody knows what it is. Thanks for the input. Many pins on unplugged plug. Truck only has 41 k miles and basically a one owner bought by a Mitsubishi truck dealer for lot plowing and the occasional errand.

camoit
07-02-2020, 05:46 PM
ECU is a metal box. If the truck runs with it disconnected then it's an after market alarm. Alarms are plastic.

royster
07-02-2020, 06:33 PM
Aha! I betcha that's the electric controls for the snow plow.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/showthread.php/3833-Local-Sightings?p=33433&viewfull=1#post33433

Cchuckster11
07-02-2020, 07:47 PM
Snow plow works fine. This is a metal box, and the plug is unplugged on drivers side but everything works as far as i know. Ive been driving it for a few months without much of any issues. 41K miles and it runs like a top. Id bet this is a factory part but dont know what it is and why its unplugged. Only the heater/ac blend controls wont switch to the different positions. Another member said that is probably a linkage rod issue. Check engine light comes on sometimes for a but always turns off again very quickly. Anyone else have the answer? This is an interesting situation friends. I know somone knows what this box is. Big factory multi pin plug on drivers side is unplugged from what looks like factory wiring harness, but almost everything works fine. Have a great holiday weekend. Ill check back later tomorrow for the next contestants answers.

Cchuckster11
07-02-2020, 07:52 PM
Its a metal box and really looks factory. Ill look closer to both sides looking for numbers, more plugs ,etc. Thanks Boss.

85Ram50
07-02-2020, 08:33 PM
Plug it in and see what happens

tortron
07-02-2020, 08:34 PM
looks like a cheap alarm like i pulled out of mine, plug is the same

Cchuckster11
07-02-2020, 09:02 PM
I know, im thinkin about plugging it in to see what happens. Ill kerp ya posted. Did i mention i have the window sticker from when it was built? Might say something on there i guess but i didnt notice anything out of the ordinary. Best to ya.

85Ram50
07-02-2020, 09:25 PM
At a guess I'd say the alarm will go off. A PO probably lost the key fob to turn it on and off so they unplugged it since those things cost a lot to replace.

geezer101
07-03-2020, 12:52 AM
I don't know how the heater control cables are routed in a US left hand drive truck :shrug: It will be only one cable that has come adrift though. The other cable will be for the heater valve/tap.

Cchuckster11
07-03-2020, 06:22 AM
Thanks....that will help sir.

85Ram50
07-03-2020, 11:54 AM
I don't know how the heater control cables are routed in a US left hand drive truck :shrug: It will be only one cable that has come adrift though. The other cable will be for the heater valve/tap.
On my gen one the heater valve is on the left side the air duct controls are all on the right side.

geezer101
07-03-2020, 03:35 PM
^same as mine. But that's a Gen 1. I haven't picked apart a Gen 2 to know cable routes.

Cchuckster11
07-04-2020, 07:11 PM
OK, well i pulled a lower dash trim panel(2 screws), and plugged in the unplugged male, no alarm, no change of anything, drove 20 miles zero change. Wil post a better couple pics, as best as i san read the part # on electronic box is MB822088. There is another much smaller box directly in front of the big one also looks factory made. Film at 11: 00. Let me know peeps. Have a great 4th of July weekend folks.

geezer101
07-04-2020, 09:35 PM
The MB# is indicative of it being a factory OEM part. Our generations of trucks didn't come with a factory immobiliser/alarm. I am thinking - auto trans ECM...? It's the only other ECM that would've been fitted to a Gen 2 truck with injection. What is on the compliance/build plate in the engine bay? The trans code will tell us if it has had a full drivetrain swap at some point in it's life.

tortron
07-04-2020, 09:44 PM
Central locking unit

geezer101
07-05-2020, 03:14 AM
^really? I didn't know it was a factory option :shock:

Cchuckster11
07-05-2020, 07:06 AM
What? Central locking unit? Sounds pretty great. I have the build sheet from window when it was new. I will send out a pic of that and of the smaller metal electronic box in froht of this bigger one. Also the build plate on firewall. Thanks

tortron
07-05-2020, 02:16 PM
might not be original to the truck, could have come from a mitsubishi sedan from the 90's

peek inside the door panel and see if theres solenoids connected to the locks

Cchuckster11
07-05-2020, 07:12 PM
2528925284252852528425286Here are a couple pics of tge box from both sides and the small electronic box in front of it mounted vertically also visible with the front trim piece removed, also window sticker from dealer and plate on firewall with the build codes. 25287

Cchuckster11
07-05-2020, 07:15 PM
No power door locks or windows. Who knows what both of these factoty boxes are and what they do? Next contestant please. 25288

Cchuckster11
07-05-2020, 07:26 PM
This truck is all original 41k miles pretty much one previous owner. Runs and drives like a top.

geezer101
07-06-2020, 02:07 AM
That part # is for a Galant VR4 door harness so it is either wrong or incomplete.

Cchuckster11
07-07-2020, 03:37 PM
Yeah, central locking unit sounded like some locking differential option. But, nonetheless, not what this box is. Still hoping for a correct answer talked to po. He said he saw it disconected snd e erything worked except the heater/ac station selector so he didnt plug it in. AC works perfect. I plugged it in and no change i could tell. Has what loojs like a 18 pin coupler without counting.ALOT of small wires into factory harnes. No tow package eithr and its a mb part number so came with the truck.

Cchuckster11
07-07-2020, 03:39 PM
I think i didnt get a good read on the part number. Will try a mirror or something.

claych
07-11-2020, 11:03 AM
Went with a hunch after looking at Your build sheet.
The large & small 'units' respectively are...

ABS control module, MB 822080
'G' (gravity) sensor, MB 822686

tortron
07-14-2020, 05:44 PM
gravity sensor will be on the fuel line somewhere, to stop fuel pump in event of a roll over.
Could be ABS, honestly id have thought this year wouldnt have it

Chargerx3
07-15-2020, 09:07 AM
Went with a hunch after looking at Your build sheet.
The large & small 'units' respectively are...

ABS control module, MB 822080
'G' (gravity) sensor, MB 822686

I think Claych is onto something.


I have a 90 MM v6 like you and do not have anything in that area. Mine is a 5 speed too. If you were auto the control box for that would be up under the steering wheel dash. I know that abs started to come into play after 92 i believe.

Get a better view of those part numbers and report back. All of those parts and wiring look like OEM mitsubishi, so its likely standard.

PS. early 90's Mitsubishi ABS systems were scary to use in bad weather. Plenty of 3000GT owners pull the relays, so they can have normal brakes. This is likely the same solution for Mighty Max owners.

geezer101
07-15-2020, 04:22 PM
It appears that ABS wasn't an option in Mitsubishi trucks until 2006 with the introduction of the ML model. I would look at the wiring loom and see if it's a stand alone harness or if it's integrated. Someone may have had big plans but never got there. Check the backs of the brake rotors for trigger wheels and sensors/mounts.

*apparently ABS in the ML/MN was scary in the wet and other Mitsubishis fitted with ABS had similar complaints. Some owners went as far as removing the relay to disable it.

Chargerx3
07-15-2020, 05:40 PM
It appears that ABS wasn't an option in Mitsubishi trucks until 2006 with the introduction of the ML model. I would look at the wiring loom and see if it's a stand alone harness or if it's integrated. Someone may have had big plans but never got there. Check the backs of the brake rotors for trigger wheels and sensors/mounts.

*apparently ABS in the ML/MN was scary in the wet and other Mitsubishis fitted with ABS had similar complaints. Some owners went as far as removing the relay to disable it.

Might want to try and google search again. It was available for the Mighty Max during the early 90's

https://www.factorymitsubishiparts.com/oem-parts/mitsubishi-control-module-mb822080

geezer101
07-16-2020, 03:08 AM
Hmm. I only checked the Oz market and not global exports. Jeez that is one expensive option :shock:

...and thanks for the link Chargerx3 :)

claych
07-16-2020, 12:15 PM
But 2WH Antilock is listed as STANDARD equipment according to the O/P's build sheet (posted below).
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=25286&d=1593996733

O/P,
How about a picture or two 'under hood'

Chargerx3
07-16-2020, 04:13 PM
Good eye Claych. Found and confirmed. Just need to OP to verify the part number of the control module and we can hopefully close this case.

Chargerx3
07-16-2020, 04:14 PM
Hmm. I only checked the Oz market and not global exports. Jeez that is one expensive option :shock:

...and thanks for the link Chargerx3 :)

Bet you can find it for less elsewhere. They look like a 3rd party distributor, so its likely very inflated.

geezer101
07-17-2020, 12:09 AM
...and that's only the control module. Add the brake control solenoid and sensors bet it'll be an easy $2.5k set up in parts if opting for new. I thought it was referring to the load sensing brake control valve on the rear axle (the thing that goes foul but nobody seems to be able to find new)

claych
07-18-2020, 03:08 PM
Good eye Claych. Found and confirmed. Just need to OP to verify the part number of the control module and we can hopefully close this case.

Thx Chargerx3,...

Cchuckster11
07-22-2020, 07:49 AM
Thank you bro. I did notice a change after all when plugged in. Anti-lock brakes light cones on in dash and backing up and braking triggers it. You can hear the stacatto chatter of anti lock if conditions are right too.Brake light in dash also activated soon after however brakes work great.

Cchuckster11
07-22-2020, 08:02 AM
We have a winner! That must be the correct answer and the part numbers match. I thought the last number was a zero but must be an 8. Kudos Broski!

Chargerx3
07-22-2020, 09:13 AM
Thank you bro. I did notice a change after all when plugged in. Anti-lock brakes light cones on in dash and backing up and braking triggers it. You can hear the stacatto chatter of anti lock if conditions are right too.Brake light in dash also activated soon after however brakes work great.

Does it affect all of your brakes both front and back, or just rears? Honestly I would pull that plug as that system is antiquated and could put you in serious trouble.

Cchuckster11
07-23-2020, 11:11 AM
When i bought this mighty max a few months back, id recently found tle plug unplugged. I tried all i could to figure out what it was and why it was not connected. Eventually i spun the wheel , rolled the dice and plugged it back in. Drove it 50-60 mikes and nothing seened to change yill one day i backed out of the barage, geard a familiar anti lockbrake stacatto chatter and the antilock brake idiot light came on. Soon after the brake light also activated. Shut it down and started it back up and lights were both off again. Happened again so i just pulled the plug again. Max was originally bought ny a Mitsubishi truck dealer for lot plowing and local errands and tgey had pulled the plug yo remedy the situation. Talked to po and he said "everything worked so he left it unplugged too". The guy worked for the Mitsu. Truck co. and watched the lil max for years until they bought a larger vehicle for max'd job so he bought it for his own use. He had it for 1 year, it didnt snow that winter and it was just sitting in his garage so i became the 3rd owner of a 40k 94 mighty max 3.0 4x4 ac truck. You can bet im very happy i foubd it before tge other peopke i terested found time to check it out. I drove through 4 states (about an hour) and had 1st crack at tge truvk. Seller had a creeper and a cement floor in his barn. I rolked all aroubd under it and saw no trouble. Not even a spot of frame or body rust BANG! Deal made. Im in the mignty max club and drive it whenever and where ever i want. Sitting in my garage now and ptobably will be in the family forever. .

claych
07-23-2020, 11:27 AM
Just in case anyone is interested ,

Modulator # MB618806
Control Module # MB822080 < last digit is 0 :)
Abs Sensor #MB699744
G-Sensor # MB822686
Modulator Bracket #MB699809.

Cchuckster11
07-23-2020, 11:27 AM
Cranked the torsion bars up, replaced the shocks all around, bought some new but not able to be used pro comp rims and loaded so e 265/70R17 tires on her because i had the tires already in the barn. Po said he thought the ac needed a charge but it was overcharged and vac'd it out, loaded th2539625397e right amount back in and cold ac, low milage Mad Max lives on and still turns some heads. I did trim the bumpstops in 1/2 to get a bit more lift and did mild trimming at front wheelhouses for better tire clearance.

claych
07-23-2020, 11:52 AM
^^
Meh that truck sucks , You should just sell it to Me !!
Mighty Max's are very breakdown prone, I will take the problem off
Your hands for cheap!!
^
I jest, I jest, :)

Oh,
On a more technical note, plug the module in , pull the ABS fuses (2 I think) to disable the system.

Cchuckster11
07-23-2020, 02:31 PM
Niiiice. Thanks...i'll probably pull the fuses and plug module back in to see how that works. There is alot of wires on that plug and would think antilock rear brakes wouldnt take that much electronic controls to work or not. Thanks for the parts numbers too but im not going to get them working correctly. Take care and shiny side up.25400

geezer101
07-23-2020, 04:10 PM
Nice. The mystery module was a distraction, but it's always good to get to know your ride. Having everything working is better than everything not working. Blue Max - Geezer approves :thumbup:

claych
07-24-2020, 12:07 PM
Cchuckster,
The '93 manuals I ordered just arrived ... cursory research shows ABS diag sections for 2WD/4WD 2.4 & 3.0 !!
Also I stand corrected :) Manual lists only one fuse for ABS Controller > #20 .
Couple more caveats,

The G-sensor & Control module mounting drawings in the FSM are exact to Your posted pictures.
Tortron -There IS a location drawing for a central locking module-

More to follow Honored Posters, Always A Pleasure !!!

Chargerx3
07-27-2020, 09:12 AM
That is one very nice truck. Paint job is very clean. Are you planning on keeping the plow on front?

Tires and lift look nice too. Just a note on the front suspension. Maxing out the 4x4 fronts can lead to several issues. 1st is your camber will be off causing the outside of your tires to wear prematurely. 2nd and probably the biggest deal is cranking the torsion bars up to the snubbers or past will cause your CV axles to wear and go faster. If you 4x4 it will be even quicker. I like to leave about 3/8" gap between the snubber, so i still get up and down motion.