DETAILS about a Starion/Conquest to 1G swap

[2nup350]

I'm starting a swap on a 79 D-50 that started with a 2.6 wide and am putting in an 87 Conquest complete turbo engine with stock fuel management and as many stock parts as possible. I'll be detailing these things in this thread. There is a sticky about this but I hope to add to the knowledge base so much that a Starion swap becomes a "paint by numbers" upgrade.

[SubGothius]

Excellent! Good on ya, looking forward to your build details. :thumbup:

[geezer101]

Ditto. We get a lot of inquiries about going turbo with trucks. Seems like the engine install is the easiest part but not much info about fuel delivery set, wiring harness up etc.

[dash]

this guy had done just that. Eventually ended up with a beast of a MPI 2.6/auto 1st gen truck
Showed how he converted to starion hydraulic clutch, replacing the failure-prone oem truck cable linkage
FULLY detailed his TBI 2.6 truck build & the MPI move. All that great info and photos lost. What a waste
EXTREMELY knowledgable, helpful guy..... who sadly passed away a few years back
http://www.starquestclub.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=90489

another carb to turbo 2.6 truck conversion. He knows 2.6s inside out. His street SQ 500+hp
http://www.sqperformance.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=s90nt4n9ohb7f5b842m7c2lh32&topic=93.0

[2nup350]

First thing is about the oil pump pickups- the Starion block has a vestigial pickup in the same location as the NA block , but it's not connected to anything- YOU MUST use the oil pump mounted pickup. here is a NA location
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26094&stc=1
BUT take a look, if you have oil squirters in your block, you have a turbo motor and this pickup is not drilled out, use the oil pump mounted one like this instead
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26095&stc=1
This also means you need the correct oil pump (at least a rebuildable one-use the NA pump parts in the old turbo case if you have to) the main bolts with the stud on top, and the right pickup.
CONVERSELY if you drill an NA block for squirters you have to choose if you will use the stock block mounted pickup or use the pump mount one- (and block off the block mounted hole with a fabbed plate- don't forget to do that, no oil pressure otherwise.)
LASTLY there is a difference between the Starion oil pump gasket and the NA block gasket- a couple extra holes here and there, but the parts catalogs only show the NA gasket, saying it fits the Turbo. _IT DOESN'T_ you are gonna have to cut a couple holes with the trusty knife.

[2nup350]

NEXT up :oil pans!
The starion oil pan is the nice black one, the steel one is a NA pan.
. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26096&stc=1

The notch in the pan is to clear the differential on the 4wd trucks. The Starion pan will fit the 2wd trucks fine. The Starion pan has a baffle to control oil slosh, so that is desirable. the NA pan DOES fit the Starion oil mounted pickup, so if you have a4wd, there you go! BUT note the two little fitting in the side of the Starion pan, one is for the dipstick and the other is for the oil drain for the breather oil separator can- if you use the NA pan you need to add at least the oil drain, (USE the can, unless you like oil all over your engine bay) and I don't know how well the oil dipstick will fit or be usable with the turbo in the way, so use the Starion dipstick if you can, Block Off the unused dipstick hole if converting a NA block or you get a mysterious leak.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26099&stc=1

[2nup350]

Next up is the timing cover , The Starion cover has a nipple on the side like this for the Turbo oil drain.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26100&stc=1

You can also take a NA cover and drill it/tap it, there is a boss right there in the same location.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26101&stc=1

[2nup350]

Oil Sender troubles today! the NA block has a hole drilled in the side for the oil sender. There is no oil cooler on the NA block and the oil filter screws right to the side of the block. The Starquest block has an oil cooler adapter sandwiched between the oil filter and the block, it also has a port in it where the starquest mounts the oil sender, using a plug in the NA locatrion to prevent oil leaking out. The oil cooler sender location will interfere with the power steering pump if you are running the one with the reservoir bolted to the back, so in that case move the plug from the block to the oil cooler, if using the remote reservoir like the starquest has, it's all good.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26102&stc=1
The top one is the Starion style remote reservoir pump, the bottom is the bolt on type, it fouls the oil sender in the cooler so if you got this type , swap the oil galley plug around.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26103&stc=1
Just be sure you plug at least one of the holes or you will have a garage floor covered in oil when you start it up.

[2nup350]

The original Starquest has a 1 wire o2 sensor bolted into the cat converter right off the turbo. You can keep it if you like. BUT this engine came with a replacement downpipe /cat eliminator and a screw in o2 sensor instead. Still one wire type but the shield did not fit , the one wire sensor was damaged, and three wire sensors make for a better running car as you get a good signal faster to the ecm.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26118&stc=1
This is after I modified the heat shield to fit around the new location of the o2 sensor. I also swapped in a 3 wire o2 sensor. Bosch part number 13913, common on Fords. I also bought a replacement plug to fit it from Clips and Fasteners- part number fba19889-1. Doing the conversion is really quite easy, one wire is ground, one is power, one is signal. The replacement plug needed a couple wires swapped around but now it works, the plug can literally be disassembled and moved around with a screwdriver.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26119&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26120&stc=1
I also plan to run a wide band for a dash gauge so I got this nifty version of the weld bung. it's got a wider flange and is therefore less prone to damage and warping during the welding process- very good for a ham fisted oaf like me.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26121&stc=1

[2nup350]

Fuel Pump Time!
You gonna need a high pressure pump. I chose to use the stock Starion pump in keeping with the theme of " make it with what ya got and use stock parts whenever possible. Here, Ive got the stock pump and bracket from the donor, with the funny curved bracket
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26215&stc=1
This bracket is great, it has two sets of rubber mounts, this helps keep the pump from vibrating against the body and making noise, but the dogleg is in the way so it has to go

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26216&stc=1
Cut away the crap and I've figured where I want it, under the side cover right by the tank, fuel pumps work better as pushers so low and close is the game, you might be tempted to mount the pump like this on the outside of the frame and be done with it
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26217&stc=1
BAD, NO! the pump has no protection from rocks kicked up from the tire, and it's hanging off the rubber mounts that weren't designed to do that, they work under compression. It has to be mounted flat and up. So I get out the CAD (Cardboard Aided Drafting) tools and made this.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26218&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26219&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26214&stc=1
That'll do it. room to run the lines, a little kickup in the front to prevent rocks and it's still easy to get at, just take the panel off and voila!
Here is the cardboard bit/metal cut out prior to bending. you can bend this in a brake or you can bend this in a vice or you can do as I did and lightly score it with the angle grinder before whacking the bejezzus out of it over a 350 block lying in the yard to get a crease.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26220&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26221&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26222&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26223&stc=1
You can weld it (like me) or just sheet metal screw it to the frame rail. Don't try to through-bolt it however, the frame will just collapse without internal support.
Next you have to get some 5/16 steel line and bend it to fit the frame/flare it to mate with the 5/16 fuel outlet fitting on the pump. Do yourself a favor and buy or rent or borrow a flaring tool like this one
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26224&stc=1
DO NOT try to flare steel lines without a tool like this, it's just frustrating and you will get leaks if you try to use a tool like below
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26225&stc=1
Trust me, this tool is crap, use the lever style one.

[Chargerx3]

Nice build. Can’t wait to see a Starion powered truck.

[B-Line]

All that attention to detail. Kudos!

[pennyman1]

I have to get Trkdesigner to update his 1981 Arrowcuda truck on here - 1987 Conquest motor and 5 speed with all the factory wiring and even the intercooler. He is the one that painted Geronimo many years ago, and I helped him get the donor and parts of the swap.

[2nup350]

The Starquest uses a cable very close to the D50. Here they are side by side, gotta use the Starion one as you no longer have a way to adjust the D50 cable.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26237&stc=1http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26238&stc=1
The screw end on the left is the original d50 part, the two bolt flange on the right is the Starquest.
You can use the Starquest cable on the d50. It takes a bit of light cutting though.
You must cut the original flange off the firewall to make it flush. I used a step drill bit until the outer barrel fell away. Then add two screw holes to the firewall for the flange of the Starquest cable. Point it slightly up as needed to loop back around over the valve cover.
Then the next part is the length. the cable. If connected to a stock d50 throttle pedal, is too long. but do not despair, you just need to extend the bracket with a bit of steel and a welder.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26239&stc=1
diss too long must fix.

extend the bracket by like 2.5 inches with trusty welder. , note the angle change, it's to fit the hood.
now it all works.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26241&stc=1
and that's how to adapt the cable to fit the d50

[2nup350]

Wiring part 1
I'm starting at the throttle body end and working toward the ECU
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=26290&stc=1
1: Heavy wire , originally for the starter relay, Not using it as I already have the d-50 starter relay in place
2: a very corroded ground wire, not using it, I've got plenty of grounds elsewhere. the other end of this cable is about two feet away at the Ignitor box on a grounding lug. there are two connections at the lug, one big(this one) and another smaller one. Leave the smaller one.
3:Air conditioning.
4: Injector harness, note that mine have both been cut off and replaced before.
5: Distributor connection- round plug- as are the next three. luckily all four are different shapes so you can't plug the wrong things together.
6: These three round plugs go to the throttle body.
7: These two plugs with red wires control the EGR system, don't need 'em
8-9: Three Yellow wire plugs- note my harness has one cut off already. Number 8 is the coolant temp sensor, 9 and the missing 10 are for the dash temp gauge- not using as the d-50 harness is fine and IDK as it went to the b-38 connector and stopped there
You can eliminate those too, the only one to keep is the #8- it's easy to figure which one it is from the other two because it's the only one with a black wire going to it. the other plugs have combinations of yellow and stripes.