View Full Version : 2nd gen mightymax 4g63 turbo.
4doorciv
04-11-2011, 01:38 AM
This is going to be my second build thread. My first build thread was on mightyd5o, and a picture thread was made in rememberance on the old mightyram50.
I had my head at the shop for the past month and was finished with the machine work shortly after I gave them the head. All I was waiting on was the arp exhaust manifold studs that have yet to come in still. The head was reconditioned and resurfaced. Webcams 546/547 grind are coming off after I send the oem cams and cam gears ack to the machine shop to have the surface rust taken care of.
The block was special ordered from maperformance or mordern automotive performance as a stage one 6 bolt eclipse shortbloc. Mahle pistons 9.0:1 compression with eagle rods, Balance shaft eliminated with a brand new oem oil pump and front case.
Total spent so far, 3150 for the short block, 680 for the headwork without the arp studs, maybe 150 in gaskets.
4doorciv
04-11-2011, 01:47 AM
First picture shows the old eclipse block on my engine stand, also how late I stayed working on it today. Lol. I already swapped timing components and removed the oil pan. Second picture shows before I started swaping parts, and how bright and sunny it was. Third pic is a little blury, I'm sorry about, but it shows how far it was put together. Fourth pic shows the carnage of the rod cap, and tiny metal pieces. The reason I bought a new shortblock to begin with. Last pic shows how clean the new shortblock was before I started.
Still to do, Send the oem cams and cam gears to be cleaned up. I already have a new waterpump gasket and new oil filter housing gasket but I need to buy a new waterpump and decide on the mightymax oil filter housing without the oil cooler or the eclipse oil filter hoising with an air cooled oil cooler. Also need to buy a new oil pickup gasket unless I can use one of my spare oil return gaskets. Smaller, but looks close enough. And assemble head to block.
Sweet...now we are talking...glad to see you making some progress....keep us posted....congrats
crvtec90
04-11-2011, 08:22 AM
What are they gonna do to the cams to clean them? Sonic clean? Whenever I have seen surface rust on engine parts that is not deep and pitted I always use PB Blaster. You can just wipe the rust off with a damp rag.
4doorciv
04-11-2011, 12:55 PM
From what I was told by members on dsmtuners, use mineral oil or mineral spirits and a green Scott Brite pad. the gut at the machine shop showed me this bottle I can pickup from from home depot, it's a metal polish. Use with a clean rag. The polish has to be cleaned off thoroughly before use or will cause catastrophe engine failure when the polish starts moving around. I just asked how long they would take and how much it was, they said same day service with only $35~ charge. Sounds pretty close to the cost of supplies to me so they can do it. Sandblast and hot tank I believe. Or solvent tank. As long as they don't destroy my new engine, I'm satisfied.
that sounds like a good deal...i would go with it...pb blaster has been what i always used..my dad and grandpa always did it that way or with some other stuff. I cant remember the name though
4doorciv
04-11-2011, 11:46 PM
Today, I did more parts running then I wanted. Went to teds machine shop to drop off the cams, took me like maybe 20 minutes of standing cause the guy was talking to a customer non stop. Even let the phone ring while he was talking to the guy.
Went to redline automotive and tried to pick up a gasket for my oil pickup tube, they said no listing. I tried to pick up the turbo gasket kit they sold me the last time, they said no listing. I left to my house again to pick up the old box with the part number for the kit and took it to them. They said i had to pic it up from the warehouse and I did. Also got me a new waterpump. When I got to the warehouse, I noticed they sold me the wrong parts. A few more times back and fourth I finally got my parts.
Insalled the oil pickup tube using a new gasket for the oil return line since that kit comes with extras. Installed the oil pan with this rtv that teds said was better then ultra gray. Installed the waterpump. Installed the motor mounts, then dropped the shortblock into the truck. I stopped there cause I forgot my allen wrenches at work again. Pictures later, dinner time.
sweet man..its coming along. Keep up great work man. Hope to hear this thing talking to me soon...
4doorciv
04-12-2011, 03:14 PM
I was actually hoping to drive it to work today but the snags was just too much. I also had to get dropped off to work today cause I can't borrow a car today. The machine shop didn't call me yesturday so I'm hoping for a call today, buy my ride won't puick me up till after 5. They close at 5, so another day it'll be down. I was also rained on while working on the motor yesturday since I have a very small garage covering I can use and the truck isn't under it. Weather looks better today. I Aldo have my Allen wrenches I can take home.
sweet man...sounds good. hope you get it all worked out man. Be patient young grasshopper...;)
what type of job do you have? Just curious?
4doorciv
04-13-2011, 01:47 AM
Didn't have much time today. Installed the alternator, and water pipe into the water pump. I attempted to remove the arp studs from the old block and 3 were stuck. I need to get more tools to bring back for tomorrow. No pics cause I might open and install my jay racing alternator relocation kit. I believe I can pill back the alternator wire loom with the oil pressure switch wire and pull it to the other side so I dont have to extend wires. Oh, and I went with the mightymax oil filter housing eliminating the oil cooler. Less mess in the engine bay. I'll post pics tomorrow of what I took yesterday.
4doorciv
04-13-2011, 01:49 AM
On a side note, my lancer evolution 8 intercooler went missing. My grandma said she recycled a radiator I told her to, but I noticed it's still there. I wonder what happened to my intercooler. :mad:
radiator, intercooler....whats the difference:confused:
nice progress buddy, keep it up...
4doorciv
04-13-2011, 01:11 PM
Seriously? Well, that was my spare intercooler for when either the one on my talon or truck gets damaged. Radiator I tore apart to be recycled and the intercooler was usable.
I'm bringing home more tools, hopefully I can button up the head today. I also need some exhause manifold nuts from the machine shop. Ima show up at the machine shop today and ask if they have my cams ready and buy the nut I need forthe exhaust manifold.
4doorciv
04-13-2011, 01:58 PM
I did a bit of research on the pistons I have. Pulled the part number from the top of my pistons and goggle cam with this site.
http://www.race-mart.com/Mahle-MAH-MIT367366I10.html
I'm glad with my choice in pistons. I chose this over the weisco, which was the only other option.
crvtec90
04-13-2011, 04:43 PM
Didn't have much time today. Installed the alternator, and water pipe into the water pump. I attempted to remove the arp studs from the old block and 3 were stuck. I need to get more tools to bring back for tomorrow. No pics cause I might open and install my jay racing alternator relocation kit. I believe I can pill back the alternator wire loom with the oil pressure switch wire and pull it to the other side so I dont have to extend wires. Oh, and I went with the mightymax oil filter housing eliminating the oil cooler. Less mess in the engine bay. I'll post pics tomorrow of what I took yesterday.
Dont ditch the oil cooler. Its good to keep things cool inside the engine. Im no expert but Id bet the guys who assembled your block would recommend it.
4doorciv
04-13-2011, 08:09 PM
That is true. Although the reasearch I've done on the eclipse and talons running the mightymax oil filter housing eliminating the oil cooler do this when their downpipe is massive and cannot remove the oil filter without removing the downpipe. I don't have that problem, but I can have places for oil to leak. Also a lot of the people claim to have upwards of 300 awhp on a daily driver. Plus with all the metal I pulled from the pan can also be in the oil cooler trapped.
I am using the mightymax oil filter housing for now and keeping the eclipse oil filter housing and oil cooler as a way to revert back to a oil cooler. I also see these sandwich plates that go on the oil filter housing for a cooler, or the modified mightymax oil filter housing with oil cooler lines tapped in. The option will be there, but I need this thing on the road asap so I can drive myself around instead of relying on others. I don't like to borrow other peoples cars and catching rides isn't always reliable.
4doorciv
04-14-2011, 02:22 AM
Okay. Well lets start with when I got off.
I showed up at the machine shop inquiring on some nuts for the studs I bought to use as a temp till the arp's come in. Picked up that, washers, my cams, cam assembly lube, and some arp thread lubricant.
Got home, removed stubborn head studs, cleaned up the studs, installed thermostat housing, oem cam and cam gears with the new cam seals that were on the webcams, installed arp studs on block with the lubricant to make sure the threads are lubed and the studs thread without resistance. Removed studs, installed head and gasket, reinstalled arp studs, and tightened so I can torque to specs tomorrow.
Still need to do: remove turbo off talon, install turbo, install intake manifold, install exhaust manifold, install down pipe, install fuel rail with injectors, install timing belt.
4doorciv
04-14-2011, 02:49 AM
Sorry for the late pictures. These are from the other day.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/4doorciv/001-1.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/4doorciv/002-1.jpg
Installing the clutch disc and pressure plate.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/4doorciv/005.jpg
New waterpump.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/4doorciv/006.jpg
Getting the trans ready for installing the block.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/4doorciv/008.jpg
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/4doorciv/007.jpg
Block in, it was raining. If your wondering abou the box.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/4doorciv/009.jpg
Oil filter housing installed.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y66/4doorciv/010.jpg
From today. Head is on the block. Finnally. Home stretch. I worked on it late......
4doorciv
04-15-2011, 01:53 AM
Today, installed the intake manifold, throttle linkage, fuel pressure regulator, torqued the cams and head down.
I hoped for more but I was taking out the turbo in my talon to run on the truck. I was suppressed with what I pulled out. I thought it was a small 16g mhi turbo. After I pulled out the turbo, I took a good look at it and found out that its a evo 3 16g turbo. This will make a great addition to the truck, as well as make me want to replace the turbo with either another evo turbo, or maybe something bigger. Like maybe a 20g turbo, or maybe a holset. I'll update pics soon.
that is great man. glad you almost got it wrapped up. I bet you are relieved....Nice progress bro and keep it up..great work.
pennyman1
04-15-2011, 08:42 PM
To remove surface rust from any iron or steel part, use vinegar with a water rinse to neutralize the vinegar. It dissolves the rust and leaves the rest of the metal alone. Or you can use CLR - calcium lime rust remover, but it costs more and works about the same as the vinegar, and is more toxic.
4doorciv
04-15-2011, 09:15 PM
Noted. I spent about $33 at the machine spot that day. also bought cam lube, arp thread lube, 9 nuts and 9 washers. The price was foe everything. I say I got a deal.
Today I called in for a personal day. Good thing I get paid sick/personal days or I wouldn't have done it. I installed the exhaust manifold, installed the turbo with the coolant and oil lines, got the down pipe started (missing some bolts and nuts), fuel rail installed with fuel lines, set the timing marks, except for the oil pump gear (not needed since I have the balance shaft eliminated), valve cover, spark plugs, wiring harness, ecu, and brand new optima battery.
I primed the oil pump by spinning it till I saw oil squirting out of the rockers. After I set the timing and installed the battery, I cranked it over and it started. It wont hold idle because the radiator isn't installed and there is no coolant in the system. Somehow my hard stainless coolant line disappeared. All I have left is the 2 rubber hoses and the support bar I made so it doesn't lay on the manifold. Missing parts are the pipe and the hose clamps.
Pictures later.
4doorciv
04-18-2011, 02:20 PM
Okay. Well I installed a waterpipe I modified to work for my application. Bought ne hose clamps, coolant and dropped it in yesturday. I started it and it ran fine, for about 5 or 6 seconds. Then it died. I'll update when I pull the head off again. So far spark plugs 1 and 3 exploded, I see a valve upsidedown and a piece of my spark plug logded in piston 3.
pennyman1
04-19-2011, 11:38 AM
WTH ; how did that all happen in 5 or 6 seconds?!? You running nitromethane in that or what? Something wasn't right somewhere...:o
Was the head shaved or block decked - sounds like major piston - head contact...
damn that sucks man...wtf happened? i am sorry to hear that. keep us posted.
crvtec90
04-19-2011, 02:08 PM
Sounds like a kick in the balls man..... sorry to hear that.
Keep your head up and the wrenches turning........you'll get that truck going
4doorciv
04-19-2011, 05:35 PM
K. When I pulled the head, spark plug threads 1 and 3 are now stripped from me removing the spark plugs. All exhaust valves bent with 3 broken. The head broke off. That's why the spark plugs exploded. 3 intake valves bent. That's from me turning the head over and looking at it. I dropped off the head to the machine shop for a redo, gonna sent the block in too. As far as I can tell, I only have to replace the pistons at least 1 and 3, no cylinder wall scarring, head needs to be filled in where the valves were pushed into the head. Redecked again? I'm almost positive it might need to be again if they fill in the damaged areas.
pennyman1
04-19-2011, 06:00 PM
you need to get a thicker head gasket made so the valves don't hit again - I will post the link to the site when I find it.
pennyman1
04-19-2011, 06:10 PM
Here's the link I was referring to: http://www.scegaskets.com/Mitsubishi/4G ... nding/true (http://www.scegaskets.com/Mitsubishi/4G54-26L/Solid-Copper-Racing-Head/tc257602-1-2//page/1/checkForLanding/true) . They have or can make gaskets in any thickness you need to prevent clearance problems.
4doorciv
04-20-2011, 03:45 PM
Thanks. Will use if the machine shop calls me and tells me it was a clearance issue.
4doorciv
10-23-2012, 12:36 AM
Completely forgot about this thread until now. Dyno today said I make peak 170rwhp and 212rwtq.
Current mod list: 91 4g63 block, acl race bearings, malhe 9.0 pistons, eagle rods, balance shaft delete, rebuilt same head to factory thread, intrepid coil over plug, evo 8 560 injectors, Walbro 255 lph fuel pump, front mount intercooler, greddy type s blow off valve, gm maf, maft, apexi avcr set at 1 bar, max speed exhaust, dsmlink v3 light, evo 8 modified fuel and spark map.
Disapointed with the dyno because I now know I make wheel horsepower what the integra gsr supposed to make at the crank. :( but I do experience a sputter around 5k rpm. So I gotta work on tuning. Lol.
DroppedMitsu
10-23-2012, 09:20 AM
That seems low cosidering the stock 4g63t is supposed to put out 190(prob crank) and yours is built up a little bit.
Fordubishi
10-23-2012, 10:51 AM
Yep factory ratings are at the flywheel, so if you are pulling 170 rwhp that's roughly around 200-210 at the flywheel.Just keep playing with it and you will probably find some small stuff that needs to be changed or not quite set up right. Friend of mine had Omni GLH that he did a crap load of work to and found a small leak in the BOV reducing his boost, cleaned and reset the BOV and he pulled another 52whp.Its the stupid little things like that that cause problems you are unaware of.
4doorciv
10-23-2012, 03:46 PM
210 was the 2g dsm, 190 was the 1g I remember. The 2g had the t25 turbo but the boost solenoid pushed more boost out of it to compensate. Also more compression. Gonna figure out things this or next week. Don't wanna keep tossing parts at it. Got the gm maf not only because it's like an upgrade to the 1g maf and performs same if not better then the 2g maf, but at 1.3 bar the truck hesitates and bogs after 4k rpm. Figuring maf is maxed out because runs no problem at wastegate pressure at 8 psi.
Bar is the settings on the avcr boost controller, reason for me using bar for boost. And everyone should know 1 bar is pretty much 15 psi. Lol.
DroppedMitsu
10-23-2012, 05:25 PM
Your only running a 14b i doubt your overruning the maf.
4doorciv
10-23-2012, 10:40 PM
True. But boost controller set at 1.3 bar, air fuel at 10:1 and cannot go above 4.3k. 19psi for thoughs who don't want to do the math. Lol. Runs fine through redline at only wastegate pressure. Plus the stumbling when pushing the clutch to idle between gears was a little irritating. So blow through setup fixes it. I'll start by adjusting fuel pressure at the fuel rail confirming fuel pressure no vac is correct. When I have the time.
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