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bobsnewdirection
02-16-2012, 01:19 PM
i got my 1990 base model mighty max in june 2011. it has givin me nothing but trouble til last sat. i think ive got all the bugs worked out and its time to start getting it the way i want it. so far: i got it home and it had no air filter, that seamed like not a big deal but they are not easy to come across! still trying to find a k&n, got a paper one in for now. i changed the plugs, wires, and distributer cap/rotor. drove it for 2 weeks and it was dead. replaced the computor, and had the distibuter rebuilt, that took over a month, it ran for a week or 2 and died on christmas eve at midnight. that was cold as hell while waiting for a ride home! i thought it was the fuel pump and my buddy fought me and said all we need to do is clean out the tank. a bunch of crap out of the tank later and a good fire in my yard from all the bad gas and it was running again. 2 days later, the pump crapped out. it now has a new fuel pump and filter and is running great! i hope to order a lowering kit in the next week or so to start doing what i planned on in july. i want a 3/3 drop, been looking around the net, any suggestions? id like to do a complete kit and replace as much of the stock suspention as possible. hope my rant wasnt to long

Payrion
02-16-2012, 03:38 PM
get chassie tech drop spindles, cut a ring off the front springs, pull a leaf out the rear, i cant remember how many i pulled....I just trashed my cut springs last week or id send them to ya....i have the leafs still, but its easy to pull them out...
BTW love the avatar..misfits....took my son to see danzig a month or so back and he did a set with doyle of all old misfits songs..was great to see that..

bobsnewdirection
02-16-2012, 06:55 PM
This is the first year I haven't seen Danzig in a long time. Me n my bro go every year right around Halloween. Every time I saw him, the opening band was doyles band. Frankinstien5000? Think that's the name. So u think just drop spindles and use the existing springs? This is going to be my first lowered truck. I'd like to do it right so it still drives nice. Bounces all over right now.

Payrion
02-16-2012, 07:38 PM
to be honest....i have had several dropped trucks and they all bounce around...lol. You can do the drop springs for the front too, i cut mine cause i knew i was bagging at some point. I forgot to add for the back you can use a drop block instead of pulling the leaf since your only looking for a few inches..
I have seen danzig a few times in the past, not much into him alone..been a misfits fan since they were together, the real misfits, not the newer crap.

bobsnewdirection
02-16-2012, 08:06 PM
I figure any more than 3 inches and I won't be able to get in or out of my driveway. It hit on the rear bumper brackets when I left the driveway until I removed them and the bumper. Def going to need a skid plate on the back so I don't kill the role pan.

camoit
02-16-2012, 10:14 PM
Thats because you have changed the spring rate. Did the rubber bump stops get cut down? If not that makes them bouncy from what I have read. IDK, I go the other way... That just sounds bad no matter how I put it out there.

Payrion
02-17-2012, 05:06 AM
the rear of my truck was a 4 inch block and a leaf or 2 pulled., ill have to look but i think i had the helper leaf and one full left., yes you need to cut off the bump stops on your control arms or youll bottom out when hitting bumps, also if you buy drop shocks, that will help a ton.

DroppedMitsu
02-17-2012, 11:21 AM
I would do as Payrion suggested and get drop spindles(2") and cut about a turn of the stock coil off(~1-1.5"). This will give you the best ride in the front over drop coils alone(2.5"), make sure to get dropped shocks also. In the back I would say to pull the big thick middle leaf(~2") and add 1" drop block and also drop shocks. Drop shocks will greatly improve the ride after dropping your truck, it will not be as plush as stock since you have less suspension travel but it will be a nice firmer ride and not all bouncy. This is all just my opinion on how you should do it anyways.
Also, make sure to cut the bump stops down, you can practically cut the rubber off save for like half an inch.

bobsnewdirection
02-18-2012, 05:06 AM
At the moment, everything is stock and nothing has been cut. This truck bounces like crazy. That's why I was thinking replace as much as possible. My 1ton box truck I drive for work is smoother! I don't really mind it too much, I was trying to improve the ride while dropping it. I'm prob going with the drop spindles and drop springs up front

pennyman1
02-18-2012, 07:34 PM
instead of cutting the coils, get drop coils to go with the spindles. cutting stock coils screws up the spring rate and makes it ride hard by increasing the spring rate majorly. drop coils are stiffer also, but are engineered to ride better without the harshness.

bobsnewdirection
02-21-2012, 02:10 PM
so ive been looking around found this http://www.streetperformance.com/part/belltech/suspension-lowering-kit/1393012-436nd.html which is everything but the spindles, and this http://store.gaugemagazine.com/browseproducts/79-06-Dodge-D50--Mighty-Max-2--Drop-Spindles.html
the only thing i didnt like is the kit comes with 3in blocks, i only need 1in and pull the leaf? like i said, this is new to me, if you have better suggestions, please send me a link. im hoping to order on sat(pay day is fri)!
also, installed sirius radio in the truck cause it had no antenna. i was getting sick of my ipod and old cds. prev owner installed a kmart looking cd player, it will get me thru for a few months

bobsnewdirection
02-22-2012, 03:33 PM
anyone? do these products seem ok? like i said, i wanna do i right the first time.

Fordubishi
02-22-2012, 06:36 PM
You know the Beltech kits is a 2.5" F/ 3.0" R drop http://belltech-store.com/main-cat-store-2/suspension-lowering-kit/lowering-kit.html. If you add spindles that would be another 2.0" in the front. and with the spindles you MUST run 17" or bigger rims.

bobsnewdirection
02-22-2012, 07:16 PM
That's what I needed to know. I had no idea about the spindle and rim issue. So do u think that kit would do what I want? I wasn't planning on rims right away. Can only do so much at a time

bobsnewdirection
02-25-2012, 05:52 PM
i got some stuff today! got new pioneer 4in speakers for the dash, and pioneer 6x9s for behind the seat. also ordered the belltech drop kit. found it at summit racing for $230. should be delivered in a week. the only thing i didnt do was get 1in blocks, i asked the sales person there, they didnt have any. should i use the 3in that come with the kit or order 1in from somewhere else. i like the idea of using the 1 in and pulling a leaf out

Payrion
02-26-2012, 07:39 AM
i would use the 3 inch block. did the kit come with drop shocks?

bobsnewdirection
02-26-2012, 09:48 AM
The kit comes with drop shocks, springs, blocks, bushings and all mounting bolts. There may be more with the kit that I'm not remembering. U think the bigger blocks will be better? The kit was bell tech 436p I'm pretty sure

DroppedMitsu
02-26-2012, 12:08 PM
You'll get less axle wrap when accelerating with the smaller block ans pulled leaf and the axle/u bolts will be further from the ground, but other then that nothing wrong with using the bigger block an no pulled leaf.

bobsnewdirection
02-26-2012, 12:22 PM
I installed the front speakers in the stock locations, started working on running wire to the back and had an idea. Above the seatbelt coil is a 6in square stamped in the sheet metal. It looks deep enough to cut in my 6x9s. Has anyone cut that area out for speaker install? It would look a whole lot better then jammed behind the seat. Prob gonna drill a hole in the sheet metal tomorrow and look around in it. If its clear I'm going for it

pennyman1
02-26-2012, 03:42 PM
you should have no issue with that as I have seen other 2nd gen trucks with speakers mounted there. Don't know the depth of the panel, but you could extend it out if the speakers you use are too deep.

DroppedMitsu
02-26-2012, 08:43 PM
Yes you can do that, i guess some trucks came stock with speakers in the rear pillars so I've heard.

Stunner
02-26-2012, 08:59 PM
My truck came factory with 6" speakers in the rear pillars. Installing 6"X9"'s won't be a problem.

dmr8x2
02-27-2012, 04:17 AM
6x9's can fit in the pillars BUT they overlap the stamped area . you can make a shim to go under the speaker. I have the rear plastic panels in my truck (2nd-gen) so they filled the gap under the speakers. you will want to use a jig-saw with a rotating blade to get into the tight areas.

bobsnewdirection
02-27-2012, 05:28 PM
dmr8x2, you are correct. they do fit, they overlaped the top1/2 inch. i didnt know it was there and broke 3 jigsaw blades. first one was a little rough, second one cut nice and clean. the 6x9s fit with plenty of room

bobsnewdirection
02-27-2012, 05:57 PM
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=2404&d=1330389134
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=2403&d=1330389132
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=2407&d=1330389140
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=2406&d=1330389138
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=2405&d=1330389136







OK I see what happened to your pictures. There all listed in the album. Edit this post then go to the advanced editor. Below the post click manage attachments. Then drag what pictures you want into the bottom box of the manager. Then click the insert in-line button. This will post them up. Camoit.

4093

bobsnewdirection
02-27-2012, 06:45 PM
anyone know the color codes on the wire harness to the stereo? i want to change the one i got with the truck. prev owner destroyed the factory harness connector, so im gonna make a new one when i get the new head unit

camoit
02-28-2012, 12:16 AM
look at the manuals section. The factory manual on the first gen. I think it will be the same colors for the radio. Or look thought the 116+ manuals. There might be somthing in there.

bobsnewdirection
03-06-2012, 01:42 PM
I'm annoyed. Got off the phone with summit racing, my lowering kit is back ordered until at least April 7. I was really hoping to get it for this weekend.

camoit
03-06-2012, 03:24 PM
Thats nothing... I ordered a water pump from them and it took 6 months for the manufacturer Stewart (http://www.stewartcomponents.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=43163&Category_Code=ChevyS4)to build one. I hope it was worth the price. Welcome to the world of custom car crap.

bobsnewdirection
05-30-2012, 02:51 PM
Got some new parts in today! My bell tech lowering kit and a tonnue cover. The cover I'm not to impressed with. I'll prob have a new cover made and use the rails. It will do for now. Going to start working on the drop tomorrow if I get done work early.

bobsnewdirection
06-01-2012, 05:54 PM
i got the new 3in blocks and new rear shocks installed today.that was pretty easy. moved on to the front, only got 1 wheel off and i couldnt break the lower balljoint loose. tryed a hammer for a while, stepped it up and tryed an air chisle, still no luck. any ideas on next move? i have all day tomorrow to fight it. had to give up tonight, started raining.

DroppedMitsu
06-01-2012, 06:01 PM
You couldn't get the ball joint out of the spindle? Have you usee a pickle fork yet?

bobsnewdirection
06-01-2012, 06:07 PM
no, i dont have one. guess im getting one tomorrow. i didnt think it was going to be so stuck.

Fordubishi
06-01-2012, 06:27 PM
is the control arm sitting on a jack? If so make sure the jack is an inch or so below the control arm. That way there is pressure pulling down on the ball joint and a few real good smacks on the spindle right at the ball joint "should" release it.

bobsnewdirection
06-01-2012, 08:14 PM
thats what i thought. i tryed that for over an hour, thats when my friend sugested the air chisle. neither worked. there is allot of rust on the ball joint nut, i sprayed the hell out of it with wd40, maybe it will help by tomorrow.

bobsnewdirection
06-02-2012, 05:50 AM
the rear done and tonneu on http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3040&d=1338637230

bobsnewdirection
06-02-2012, 05:58 AM
the new belltech rear shocks http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3042&d=1338638105

bobsnewdirection
06-02-2012, 04:04 PM
finally got the front installed! http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3047&d=1338674083 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3046&d=1338674079 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3045&d=1338674074 any lower and i couldnt put it in or out of the driveway. after installing, we thought it should be lower, but the driveway test said otherwise. i had less than an inch to the frame in the middle of the truck

DroppedMitsu
06-02-2012, 06:19 PM
Looks good man, nice truck. And you know what it means if you want to go lower but still clear objects with ease......... bags lol

crvtec90
06-04-2012, 09:15 PM
I have the same problem with my driveway ....lol....wanna sslam my truck but it won't let me

crvtec90
06-04-2012, 09:30 PM
The bed cover looks okay in the pic . Whered you get it and what dont u like about it?

bobsnewdirection
06-05-2012, 04:36 AM
I got the cover from auto anything. It looks good from a distance. The materials are cheap. Up close, it almost looks like a tarp. If it annoys me enough, I may have my friend use the cover as a template to make a better one. The rails arnt bad, the hardwear is cheap. I'll get some closer pics after work

bobsnewdirection
06-15-2012, 04:59 PM
Picked up a set of 17in caddy rims today. Anyone know where to get them bored? I'm in philly. Hope there's someone fairly local.

bobsnewdirection
07-23-2012, 02:47 PM
got my rims back last week, waiting to hear back that the tires are mounted. been trying to clean some of the years of dust and grime out from under the hood. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3317&d=1343075558 . does anyone make an aftermarket replacement for the air filter cannister? or has someone made one that works with the maf? i hate looking at that thing.

bobsnewdirection
07-24-2012, 07:24 PM
found this online tonight, anyone try this? http://www.andysautosport.com/mitsubishi/1987_1996_mighty_max/performance/intakes/air_filters/afe/afep10000029.html Looks good, dont know anything about the company, and i cant find any direct fit besides paper filters. that one looks like i could cut up the can that holds the filter in and make it an open element. any reason not to?

91MMY59
07-24-2012, 07:40 PM
i ran a cosmo on my conquest years ago.not sure if they make 1 for the trucks

bobsnewdirection
07-24-2012, 07:50 PM
i never heard of them, looked it up, they do! thanks! http://www.cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=108&pid=746

91MMY59
07-24-2012, 07:59 PM
i never heard of them, looked it up, they do! thanks! http://www.cosmoracing.com/productinfo.asp?cid=108&pid=746

Good deal!! Those looked awesome with my chrome hardpipes on my quest!

DroppedMitsu
07-24-2012, 10:09 PM
Yup, just buy a filter like that as long as it fits your mighty max, then just cut out the filter cover around the ring that the little latches latch to.

bobsnewdirection
07-25-2012, 02:20 PM
Ordered the one from Cosmo racing, hope to see it Monday.

91MMY59
07-25-2012, 02:24 PM
Ordered the one from Cosmo racing, hope to see it Monday.

post pics once you have it on
also,if you find a universal style intake pipe with the correct bend,i am sure you can take advantage of it instead of that restrictive accordian style pipe from the factory.Have your own personal styled intake..lol

bobsnewdirection
07-27-2012, 04:54 PM
got the cosmo racing filter kit in today, easy to install, instructions were good but there pics are terrible.http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3402&d=1343429357 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3403&d=1343429359 Now, my question is, is this little tuna can with cardboard in it needed or no? it sat behind the maf, doesnt show it in the cosmo instructions. wasnt sure if i need some restriction http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3405&d=1343429362 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3406&d=1343429363 Heres all the crap i pulled out! http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3404&d=1343429360

bobsnewdirection
07-28-2012, 06:17 PM
So I was out going over to nj to take my boat out, there was a bridge opening so I sat in traffic for a while. When we finally started moving I let a cop out because I'm nice and would rather not have him behind me. We go about 100 ft and he throws the lights on, he pulled me over on the bridge for tailgating him! We are in crazy backed up traffic going 8 mph. His reason was because he couldn't see me. He was in an expedition and my truck is lowered.

Fordubishi
07-28-2012, 06:29 PM
well it is the end of the month so you were just filling his ticket quota.

91MMY59
07-28-2012, 07:47 PM
So I was out going over to nj to take my boat out, there was a bridge opening so I sat in traffic for a while. When we finally started moving I let a cop out because I'm nice and would rather not have him behind me. We go about 100 ft and he throws the lights on, he pulled me over on the bridge for tailgating him! We are in crazy backed up traffic going 8 mph. His reason was because he couldn't see me. He was in an expedition and my truck is lowered.

fight it.take pics of his ride and urs and show judge.
if u could sneak a pic of ur truck behind his,that would be better.
if his windows are tinted dark,even better,imparied his vison and judgment

crvtec90
07-29-2012, 09:04 AM
got the cosmo racing filter kit in today, easy to install, instructions were good but there pics are terrible.http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3402&d=1343429357 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3403&d=1343429359 Now, my question is, is this little tuna can with cardboard in it needed or no? it sat behind the maf, doesnt show it in the cosmo instructions. wasnt sure if i need some restriction http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3405&d=1343429362 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3406&d=1343429363 Heres all the crap i pulled out! http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3404&d=1343429360

Im gonna say you need that tuna can, but If the truck runs ok without it then Im wrong. I know the starion maf has a honeycomb deal like that before the sensor which helps it read properly. If yours is after the sensor then maybe its just like a turbulance builder to help atomize the air charge

bobsnewdirection
07-29-2012, 09:28 AM
Ive been driving it without it, seems to be ok. I was thinking about putting it back in and seeing how it performs. I don't see any performance gains but it doesn't seem worse either. At least there's one less rusty part under my hood

bobsnewdirection
08-15-2012, 04:15 PM
Got my wheels back yesterday. It has been raining and thunder n lightning on and off for the last 3 days. I got the rear wheels installed. Not a big fan of the tires. They look to small. 205/40/17. I'll put up a pic if I can figure out how to do it with my phone. Hope to get the fronts on tomorrow if the weather is good

DroppedMitsu
08-15-2012, 04:50 PM
I probably would have went 215/45, thats what I had on my 17s and they were like the perfect size.

bobsnewdirection
08-15-2012, 06:08 PM
Mine came on the wheels. Got rims and brand new tires for $500. Figured I couldn't go wrong. I got a break in the weather and got the fronts on, they look pretty good. I'll prob change the backs and have two spares for the front.

bobsnewdirection
08-15-2012, 06:10 PM
Still can't figure how to post pics with my phone. Anybody? I have an IPhone

Fordubishi
08-15-2012, 06:15 PM
I run 215/45/17 up front and 235/40/17's in back they are almost the same rolling diameter as the stock 185/75/14's that were on the truck.went with the 215's up front so at full lock the tire didn't contact the sway bar.

bobsnewdirection
08-20-2012, 04:06 PM
not a fan of the back tires, way to much wheel well showing. i cant go any lower, i scrape leaving my driveway now that i changed the tires. thinking more back tire and lower the rear an inch http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3474&d=1345499755 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3473&d=1345499751

bobsnewdirection
08-30-2012, 04:55 PM
Got my truck back from inspection today. I only put 3000 miles on it since it didn't run half the year. Emissions exempt! Gonna try to stay under 5000 next year so I can do some exhaust work. Gonna start lookin into that. Also, anyone in the Philly area may be interested. My towns car show is sept 9th. There is an adverage of 300 cars/trucks and 30 bikes. Good size show for a little town. Rockledge Pa.

bobsnewdirection
08-30-2012, 05:50 PM
What do I remove on the rear brakes under the bed for the brakes to work properly with it lowered? Is it just the spring?

DroppedMitsu
08-30-2012, 07:59 PM
Yea you can just unhook the spring.

crvtec90
08-30-2012, 08:09 PM
What do I remove on the rear brakes under the bed for the brakes to work properly with it lowered? Is it just the spring?

There is an adjustment bolt where the spring meets the bracket. Loosen it up and move it over toward the driver side

bobsnewdirection
09-06-2012, 01:43 PM
even getting a new key for these trucks is difficult. i pissed off the locksmith because he couldnt find any info on a mighty max. we eventually by trial and error came up with a key that fits. #x54 for a dodge colt. i have had 1 key for the truck for over a year and i cant believe i havent misplaced it yet.

Fordubishi
09-06-2012, 06:44 PM
Really I took my lock off the steering and took it in to a lock smith. 10 minutes later I had 2 brand new keys. No Door lock are avalible for the First gens so I used a set from a 85 Colt and reversed the inside arms. then had to open the key holes to except the lock barrel and it works great.

pennyman1
09-07-2012, 05:59 AM
In PA they are going to exempt all vehicles 95 and older from emissions - they already have done 85 and older. They have to finalize the paperwork and you'll be able to do what you want with the exhaust if you can find a shop willing to make the pipes.

bobsnewdirection
09-14-2012, 02:35 PM
Had my local car show this past Sunday, got first place in under construction. Was a pretty good turn out with around 300 cars/trucks. Also, I got new pump, timing belt, andbalance shaft belt installed, I'm having a little lower end sound when it's in park/neutral. Sounds fine in drive.

bobsnewdirection
09-30-2012, 05:19 PM
all week ive been hearing a clanking sound near the drivers door, thought it was my seatbelt or my speaker grill had come loose. found out what it was today. the bolt that holds the window track up sheared thru the door. it must have been beating around in the door for a week. my window jammed half way down. luckily it was an easy fix, just put a big washer in place of the tiny one the factory used. http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3783&d=1349045874http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3784&d=1349045876http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3785&d=1349045878

bobsnewdirection
10-04-2012, 07:45 PM
Installed a newer radio in my truck today. Was sick of the cheap one that previous owner put in. Also made a bracket and installed Sirius radio in my glovebox. I have no antenna so I needed something. Question- anyone use power from the clock harness for the radio? It has constant and a real ground in the bundle. Old radio wouldn't keep settings.

bobsnewdirection
10-09-2012, 02:56 PM
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3811&d=1349815858 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3812&d=1349815861http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3813&d=1349815865

dazednconfused
10-09-2012, 06:26 PM
i know its not much help but i had to use a multi tester on the radio to find my keyed power due to previous owner cutting the end off. then i just grounded the radio to the bracket.

dazednconfused
10-09-2012, 06:30 PM
i know its not much help but i had to use a multi tester on the radio to find my keyed power due to previous owner cutting the end off. then i just grounded the radio to the bracket.

i meant tester to radio harness. brain quicker than fingers sometimes.

bobsnewdirection
10-09-2012, 06:35 PM
I had 2 keyed power wires. The old radio was wired to both. That's why I couldn't save settings. It also was on the dimmer ground. All that was capped off and I ran new leads to the clock connector. Seems to be holding time and stations. Old radio was 16watts x4. New one is 50x4. Sounds way better

dazednconfused
10-09-2012, 06:47 PM
cant ever go wrong with pioneer. good quality and decent prices. thats all i run anymore head unit wise.

bobsnewdirection
10-15-2012, 02:01 PM
just ordered clear lenses for all the lights, the front corners only come in chrome. anyone cut them open and pop the lense out to put it in the black housing? i dont want a chrome grill. or do i get the new lenses painted?

crvtec90
10-16-2012, 07:28 AM
just ordered clear lenses for all the lights, the front corners only come in chrome. anyone cut them open and pop the lense out to put it in the black housing? i dont want a chrome grill. or do i get the new lenses painted?

just tape up the lense real good and scuff the chrome trim with 220 grit ....prime and paint

bobsnewdirection
10-21-2012, 07:15 AM
im looking for led panels to replace my stock bulbs in the run/brake, turns, and rev lights. anyone know a place to order panels by dimention? ive got all mesurements of each area, just cant find what im looking for. may end up making them if i cant find the panels. i did this on my motorcycle a few years ago, ill post pics to show what im looking to dohttp://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3934&d=1350824657http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=3933&d=1350824657

camoit
10-21-2012, 12:14 PM
They make a LED replacement for the lamps. It can be found nearly every parts house. It can replace the 1156 and 1157 the trucks use.

1156 replacement White.

http://www.pepboys.com/product/details/9606410/

bobsnewdirection
10-21-2012, 12:47 PM
I know there is 1156 and 1157 replacement bulbs that are led. I'm wanting to fill the entire lense with LEDs. Not just a small area. In the bike I believe there are around 100 LEDs in the tail section.

camoit
10-21-2012, 03:05 PM
You could take apart truck lights and use them. But thats all we have.

Fordubishi
10-21-2012, 03:41 PM
www.superbriteleds.com

http://www.superbrightleds.com/images/uploads/1157-PCB-x36.jpg

bobsnewdirection
10-21-2012, 04:31 PM
That is what I'm looking for!

bobsnewdirection
10-27-2012, 05:57 PM
Got my tail lenses in today, they are amazingly cheap. Nothing lines up and both of the inside screws on the right lens broke before they were half way in. Also, between the lights, they glued each part together and none of the lenses are close to being in line. Junk. Bumper ones were fine, and I got the corners in Monday, gave them to the paint shop by me, not sure when I'll see them again.

bobsnewdirection
11-04-2012, 08:54 AM
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4026&d=1352044091 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4028&d=1352044091 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4027&d=1352044091 got my corners back from the paint shop, i think they look pretty good! makes the grill look real faded now, guess its on the list of stuff to do.

bobsnewdirection
11-06-2012, 06:20 PM
I can only assume I need a new alternator, any time my headlights are on, my alternator or belt starts squeeling. If I don't have the headlights on or I turn off the radio and Sirius radio, it's fine. Been driving to work in the morning with just driving lights on. I'm thinking of installing an alt from a mitsubishi wagon, saw it in a search on here the other day. It prob a good idea anyway, looking to install and amp and 2 subs soon

crvtec90
11-07-2012, 07:06 AM
I can only assume I need a new alternator, any time my headlights are on, my alternator or belt starts squeeling. If I don't have the headlights on or I turn off the radio and Sirius radio, it's fine. Been driving to work in the morning with just driving lights on. I'm thinking of installing an alt from a mitsubishi wagon, saw it in a search on here the other day. It prob a good idea anyway, looking to install and amp and 2 subs soon

try tightening the belt first.

bobsnewdirection
11-07-2012, 11:51 AM
I'm pretty sure it's tight enough. I checked it and its a new belt.

bobsnewdirection
11-11-2012, 03:29 PM
I installed a 1000w kenwood amp and alpine type E 10inch sub in the truck. Sounds pretty good. Need to tune it, got dark and cold. I'll get some pics tomorrow. Asked my friend if he thought the belt was loose and he said it may be a tiny bit, he was suprised at how much it was squeeling. Gonna try to tighten it, but I think it was tight enough.

Acuta73
11-11-2012, 05:55 PM
Not to sound like an ass, but you sure it's the belt and not the bearing? Just a thought, anyway. If it's the belt and it's still in good shape, get a can of belt dressing and hit it. Should fix it pretty permanently. Just adds some tack.

camoit
11-11-2012, 08:01 PM
Christ, with that much power draw I'm surprised the engine doesn't stall... LOL

I think a miniature one of these would be cool.



4048

bobsnewdirection
11-12-2012, 11:53 AM
So how would I check if the bearing is going bad? I really sounds like the belt. I did all the belts 500 miles ago. I'll try some belt dressing on it today. Also, with the new amp and more powerful radio, everything is dimming now. Even the screen on the radio flashes when the base hits. So I think either way I'm gonna have to put a bigger alt in.

Fordubishi
11-12-2012, 01:06 PM
Easy way to check bearings is shoot a little WD40 at the bearing and if the noise goes away for a few minutes you know its bad

pennyman1
11-12-2012, 01:58 PM
With the amp you're running, you need a stiffening cap between the battery and the amp. This will give the amp the instantaneous power it needs - the battery cannot respond fast enough, neither can the alternator. The stock alt is only 45 amps, so you need a larger alt if you are going to change it.

bobsnewdirection
11-13-2012, 04:29 PM
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4057&d=1352848730 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4058&d=1352848732 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4059&d=1352848734 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4060&d=1352848737http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4061&d=1352848739
played with the gain and settings on the side of the amp, it sounds good. i need to change a few wires but it works for now, gonna clean it up when i get the right gauge. i was given the sub enclosure, is your local and want a free 10inch sub box (no sub inside) hit me up. not worth driving far and def not worth shipping. but its all there if interested.

bobsnewdirection
11-13-2012, 04:32 PM
forgot, it fits really nice, can slam the seat all the way back and no issues, and it locks in tight. i was given 2 boxes and am only using one.

minimotos95
11-13-2012, 06:17 PM
that kenwood is fused for somewhere around 30-35 amps right? it may be time to upgrade the big 3, it helps alot with dimming and is needed to gain anything significant from a high output alternator. with the right wiring, alternator and battery set up there is no need for a cap.

clean truck

bobsnewdirection
11-14-2012, 04:04 PM
Went out and got the right connectors to use the correct wire today. I have #4 from battery to dist block, 8gauge to the amp. 12 gauge to the sub. I had the frequency to high on the amp before so it wasn't sounding to good. Got it tuned a little better but still think it should be hitting harder. Not sure what to try next?

pennyman1
11-14-2012, 06:43 PM
You need 4 ga to the amp for power and ground - the more strands the better. Be sure to have an inline fuse near the battery to prevent shorts from becoming fires. Remember that electricity conducts on the surface of the wire , not inside it, so the more strands give more surface area for the power to flow.

Fordubishi
11-14-2012, 06:52 PM
Few things to Check....... Subsonic filter should be set at 25hrz (cutting off below that). Deck if has sub out low pass should be set at 120hrz. Check and see if the Sub is a 4 ohm or 8 ohm. If its an 8 ohm you're only pushing 150 watts (maybe) to the sub. That amp is only rated at 300 watts X 1 @ 4ohms and has a THD of 1% so its good enough for sub or 2.Set the amp gain to around 3/4,Low pass on amp at 120hrs (or around there for 10" sub) if the deck doesn't have a filter. And finally the base boost to 1/2 way.

Now remember a sealed enclosure will not "BOOM" it is more a hard hitting bump and if the enclosure is to big or to small it will also effect how hard the sub hits.My 20 year old JL 8's hit harder with a 100watts at 8 ohms then some of these new subs running 500+ watts. Check the min wattage to run the sub.Some of them from a few years ago needed 300 watts min just to get them to move.

minimotos95
11-14-2012, 07:49 PM
you are putting out enough power (300w on a 250w sub) if kenwood isn't over rating that amp like some of their other models, i did some research on your set up, the amp can only draw 40amps before it blows its fuse so even cheap 8 gauge can handle it but 4 gauge would be better, more strands also make it more flexible, wiring is one area not to go cheap... what is your alternator-battery, battery-engine ground and battery-chassis ground? if it's still stock that may be part of the problem. outside of tuning all i can think of is bad RCAs which i doubt or inadequete wiring and grounds.

bobsnewdirection
11-15-2012, 02:51 PM
I ran all Rockford fosgate wire for power and ground. It's hitting pretty good now. The sub is a 4 ohm, was told that would be good for this amp. I'm not an audio guy, so I'm really going off whatever I'm told. I put an inline fuse a foot from the battery. It's a 30 and at the dist block I have a 30. Amp is fused at 40. The 8 gauge wire is only 10 inches or less, blocks are right next to amp. I only put 8 gauge because I couldn't find connectors for #4 that would fit in the tiny space on the amp for the screws. Barely any room between + and -. It made me nervous. Also, a mechanic recommender a dry cell optima red battery. Any thoughts? I'm gonna up the alternator, hope to do it Sunday. Anyone do the mitsubishi wagon one? Read on the old site it bolts right up without mods

minimotos95
11-15-2012, 05:05 PM
optimas use to be great, now their QC has gone downhill you have to return it a few times before you get a good one, but when you do get a good one it will last for a long time...
also look at batteries made enersys(odyssey or diehard platinum), they make the batteries for the military humvee so they must be doing something right.

hmm, i know the 87 wagon and van alternator is identical to the 6g72 v6 mighty max and montero alternator i can't recall the years or part number... i have a 4g64 MM outside and will give it a quick look next time i'm out there... the expo wagon/lrv i don't know...

someone should just make kits to bolt a DC 300+ amp 2g DSM alternator to any of the motors...

minimotos95
11-16-2012, 07:42 PM
i was wrong about v6 MMs...
alright so the van alternator has 2 holes on top and bolts to something like a motorcycle axle block for adjusting, whereas the MM/D50 uses a single bolt on top like a bicycle axle. they do look to be around the same size you would need to find a store that has both to compare side by side out of the vehicle.
MD134315 and MD134315D fit:
87-90 van and wagon 2.4l
89-94 montero 3.0l
89 dodge raider 3.0l
any of the mods feel like merging this into above post to reduce clutter on his thread?

bobsnewdirection
11-21-2012, 12:18 PM
heres the info i got on the alternator i want to install. i think i dont have anything to do fri, hope to go get one and install over the weekend. http://www.mightyram50.net/camoit/Very_easy_2.4L_45_amp_to_75_amp_ALT_swap_MightyD50 .mht

bobsnewdirection
11-24-2012, 09:40 AM
Ordered the alternator for advanced auto. Nobody around me had one for a mitsubishi van. Bosch 75 amp $153 with core charge. I hope this is a direct plug in. Was going to look it over first, guess well see. Should have it by dec 3

bobsnewdirection
11-30-2012, 04:14 PM
Got the new alternator last night, installed it today. Very easy. Needed to buy 2 8m bolts. I'll have pics soon as I can get to my computer again. My house is getting the hardwood floors resurfaced and I can't get to my bedroom. Still haven't figured out how to post from iPhone.

bobsnewdirection
12-01-2012, 10:58 AM
Pulled my dash cluster apart and started to install blue led lights in it today. Started thinking about painting the inside of the clear lens blue. Krylon makes stained glass paint, my buddy used it on his Harley headlight and it looks great. Is this a stupid idea? I'm kind of thinking its dumb, not gonna jump to doing it. Please give me your thought. The paint only comes in 3 colors- red, yellow, and blue. My truck is all black and gray so that's why I thought it would look bad

Fordubishi
12-01-2012, 01:09 PM
Blue ????? If I was going to spray the cluster cover I would go with the spray on window tint and when the lights aren't on the cluster looks black. the only bad thing about it is you won't see the gauges with out the lights turned on. You can always rewire the gauge lights to turn on with the key and leave the running lights and headlights on the headlight switch.

bobsnewdirection
12-01-2012, 01:36 PM
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4152&d=1354393778 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4153&d=1354393781 http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4154&d=1354393783

bobsnewdirection
12-06-2012, 07:03 AM
I think I'm not gonna paint the cluster, it'll just look bad. Anyone with a matching interior may want to try this, mine would just look stupid. I did change all the bulbs in the cluster to blue led lights, it looks good and was easy to do. Now that that's done, I see no reason to have the dimmer. Should I pull that out and jump it thru or is there any reason to leave it? My radio is not tied into it anymore and although I didn't try, I imagine it wouldn't dim LEDs.

DroppedMitsu
12-06-2012, 01:37 PM
Mine does dim my leds, in fact I have it turned alll the way down.

bobsnewdirection
01-04-2013, 01:29 PM
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=4413&d=1357330484

92bluemax
01-04-2013, 06:02 PM
Where did you get your blue leds ?? ive been wanting to get some for my dash

bobsnewdirection
01-04-2013, 06:19 PM
Pep boys. Bulb is 194. U need 3 for the dash lights.

bobsnewdirection
01-04-2013, 06:43 PM
Forgot, I also put them in the turn signal indicator spots. So 5 if u want to do that. While on bulbs, anyone know what the smaller bulb # is in the dash and indicator for park/drive mini dash? Has 2 really small bulbs in there, I'd like to change them also but can't find any info on what they are

92bluemax
02-03-2013, 08:20 AM
Forgot, I also put them in the turn signal indicator spots. So 5 if u want to do that. While on bulbs, anyone know what the smaller bulb # is in the dash and indicator for park/drive mini dash? Has 2 really small bulbs in there, I'd like to change them also but can't find any info on what they are I got 2 packs last nite for $10.00 becuse pep boys had them in the wrong place:thumbup: and I won't know how they look til tonight. But I need 1 more so I can do the turn signals too.

bobsnewdirection
02-03-2013, 04:33 PM
The small dash bulbs are 74LL. I'm hoping to order some and install the beginning of spring. Anyone know how many I need to order?

bobsnewdirection
03-03-2013, 12:26 PM
Haven't touched the truck in a few weeks, been working on my bathroom, kitchen, bedroom and basement all at once. Used the truck for what it was made for, moving stuff, fired right up even tho it's been sitting and it's cold. Can't wait for all this house bs to be done, got a tailgate in my garage waiting to get installed, and I wanna pull a leaf in the back.

bobsnewdirection
04-10-2013, 06:21 PM
I got home yesterday and noticed my truck looks a little crooked. Checked air pressure in the tires and it was close. My passenger side is higher then my driver side. I'm 3/4inch higher in the back pass and 1inch higher on front passenger. My suspension was only replaced a year ago, and I only put 2000 miles on it since I changed it. Any ideas as to what I should look at? Only stock parts on the suspension is the leaf springs.

pennyman1
04-10-2013, 07:18 PM
when you changed the front coils, did you put the taller coil on the drivers side? Also check to see if the springs are seated the same on both sides in the cups. The rear maybe the same issue if you took both sides off and didn't mark them - the driver side springs are different to compensate for the gas tank.

bobsnewdirection
04-11-2013, 01:48 PM
I called belltech and asked about if one side was designed for the driver side and they say they arnt side specific. If its the spring they will take it back no problem. But they want me to switch the springs to see if it does anything. That is gonna suck allot

pennyman1
04-12-2013, 07:51 PM
I have a set of bell tech coils, they are different heights and should be marked for which side they go on.

bobsnewdirection
04-14-2013, 03:40 PM
How much of a difference is there on them? I'm going to talk to belltech and see about getting a new set of springs

bobsnewdirection
05-07-2013, 04:44 PM
Finally had time to talk to belltech, who sent me to kw automotive. They want pics of the springs under full load. I took a bunch of different pics with tape measure in pic but I don't know how to get a good pic. The spring pocket covers most of the spring. Any thoughts?

bobsnewdirection
05-08-2013, 03:16 PM
KW automotive were great about my spring situation. I sent a few pictures to them yesterday at 4pm, by 11am today I got an email that they are sending out a new set of springs. I'm very happy, hope to get back to driving it.

bobsnewdirection
05-17-2013, 04:39 PM
My springs came in today! They are exactly the same size. I was 99% sure the last ones were the same also. Hope to get them in soon. Right now my motorcycle is in a million pieces so that needs to get put back together too. Rewiring it so all switches are off the handlebars

bobsnewdirection
05-25-2013, 06:09 PM
Got my spring replaced today. Everything is good again. The old spring was either made a half in short or it was compressed that much. Still not sure how I could have done it

bobsnewdirection
07-27-2013, 06:14 AM
Been talking about pulling the middle leaf out for months, got to it yesterday. It looks allot better. Still need some bigger rear tires.

bobsnewdirection
08-24-2013, 05:26 PM
Blew a tire 2 weeks ago on my way home from work. Truck was sitting til today. Got all new tires, the ones I had were to small. Hope the new ones look better.

BradMph
08-24-2013, 05:34 PM
I would think looks better is not as high on the totem pole as, holds air better! :grin:

bobsnewdirection
08-28-2013, 07:27 AM
Got the new tires on, rides and looks a million times better. I'll try to get some pics up tonight. I ran into an odd problem this morning, I replaced my standard brake light bulbs for red led bulbs, I had painted ones and they looked bad, so I step on the brake and my dash lights come on! I'm thinking I need a resistor, wondering if anyone has had that problem? I also have led dash lights so I don't think there is enough load on everything.

sleeps
08-29-2013, 10:18 AM
Likely, the LEDs are not pulling enough so the modual may think one is out. Seen this on other cars.

Fordubishi
08-29-2013, 11:24 AM
yeah I've had the same problem with a few vehicles you need a load resistor on each light.http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/tail-light-load-resistor-kit/190/831/

http://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/rl-650-load-resistor-qtr-0003.jpg

bobsnewdirection
08-30-2013, 05:58 PM
Think I can install that behind the light housing? Looks pretty weatherproof.

bobsnewdirection
08-30-2013, 06:03 PM
Might order a couple sets and install led turn signals also. I got pilot brand 1157 for the brakes, they are really bright.

Fordubishi
08-30-2013, 06:25 PM
yep their water proof to the most part. remove the tail light, use some sheetmetal screws to attach it to the steel some where in the light pocket then wire it in, I usually solder it and use heat shrink when installing them as I hate the scotch lock's they come with.For turn signals just get the http://www.grote.com/product.php?product_number=44891 and you're good to go. I have 2 in mine, 1 for turn and 1 for hazards as i run LED's in my front bumper and my gauge cluster I changed to use 2 LED's for the turn signals.

bobsnewdirection
08-30-2013, 06:31 PM
Ok. Thanks

BradMph
08-30-2013, 11:03 PM
Those things get hot as the light bulbs do when in use. Keep them clear of paint and plastics

6485

bobsnewdirection
12-04-2013, 08:04 AM
I'm concidering putting drop spindles on my truck, it's already down 2.5 with the belltech drop springs. Will I have any issues? My tire size is 225/45/17 on escalades. I asked on the Facebook page and got 2 completely different answers. One said no prob and the other sent a pic, he's down around 5in, and says he has trouble turning. Any thoughts?

bobbyk
12-04-2013, 11:52 AM
im running 205/45/17 with 5" drop in the front and its pretty dam close. any bigger and i would definetly rub. but seeing how your doing 4.5", you might be alright.

bobsnewdirection
12-04-2013, 04:19 PM
Bobbyk Could u post a pic of your truck or email me one? I'd like to see how close it is.

bobbyk
12-09-2013, 11:18 AM
i'll post some pictures when i get home tonight

bobbyk
12-10-2013, 06:04 PM
7347

7348

i hope this helps alittle.

bobsnewdirection
12-10-2013, 06:15 PM
First, thanks! I think I'm gonna do it. Looks like I'll be close. U look like u have more room than I expected.

bobbyk
12-10-2013, 06:57 PM
no problem. i think you'll be fine, if not then just put smaller tires up front. a good stiff drop shock will also help. im running toxic shocks and only rub sometimes when someone is driving with me.

bobsnewdirection
02-05-2014, 04:49 PM
Got my drop spindles today! They are airbagit brand, I got them from amazon.com for $217. That is the lowest price I could find. How much of a pain is it to install them? Prob not gonna happen any time soon since it keeps snowing or raining here and I have the worlds smallest garage.

bobbyk
02-05-2014, 09:47 PM
They're easy to do just make sure you get a alignment afterwards. If you already had it apart before to do the drop coils then it should be a breeze.

bobsnewdirection
04-26-2014, 09:08 PM
Got my clock installed finally, been sitting in the garage for 8 months. I also rewired my sirius radio so it's hard wired now. No more bs plug in the cig lighter. Gonna try to start on the tach cluster this week. Want to install LEDs in it before putting it in.

bobsnewdirection
05-01-2014, 01:38 PM
Got my drop spindles installed and I have a big problem. The driver side is 3/4in lower that the passenger. My tire is tucking in the fender! It's undriveable. The passenger side seems fine, may have to roll it a bit but I won't know til I figure out what's up with the driver. Are there any spacers or some kind of leveling kit for the spring? This is the second time it's dropped on the driver side. I swear I'm not that heavy!!!

bobsnewdirection
05-01-2014, 02:30 PM
I'm thinking of using a 4x4 polyurethane lift spacer. Maybe 1in? Any trucks with similar spring diameter? This is the second time it's dropped on that side but now it can't move

bobsnewdirection
05-02-2014, 02:48 PM
I still have one spare spring left from when belltech sent me new ones, gonna try putting the new one on the sagging side again. Any thoughts to why this has happened twice? I'm also thinking a out getting the 3 in drop springs, think they are from airbaggit. Anyone try these? I think part of my prob is the rear is sagging a little, that can't be the whole issue but I figure it can't hurt to put new leaf springs in

bobsnewdirection
05-02-2014, 02:58 PM
The springs are from chassis tech.

bobsnewdirection
05-19-2014, 05:04 PM
Got the chassis tech springs installed and that only helped so much. Guess the rear wasn't worn as bad as I thought or hoped at this point. The driver side is still sagging. Also replaced that front spring again with a brand new belltech spring, that didn't help at all. I'm pretty stumped right now

bobbyk
05-19-2014, 07:30 PM
A lot of trucks are not perfectly even. I believe my was off by a 1/2" or so and my s10 was even worse but there know for that. What you can do is take a 1/2 coil out of the passenger side then maybe roll your fenders or get alittle smaller tires. Or you can try jamming a wedge in between the coils on the sagging side but I personally never liked to do that.

bobsnewdirection
05-19-2014, 08:22 PM
I posted this problem on the Facebook page and someone said it may be body mounts. Never thought to look at that. I'm gonna check on that tomorrow. Otherwise I'm going to raise it in the front a bit. I'm also scraping my rim on the control arm when the wheel is turned. Not sure what to do about that. I didn't know it was doing that until we raised it up after the rear suspension was done. It was tucking to much to turn it that far before

bobbyk
05-20-2014, 08:24 AM
It definitely could also be your body mounts. I had to grind a little off of the front of my lca where it rubbed but now it's fine. You can also turn out the stopper in the spindle but then you lose some turning radius.

noahwins
05-20-2014, 11:18 AM
Got a pic of the stance?

DroppedMitsu
05-20-2014, 12:00 PM
A vehicle is ALWAYS going to lean to one side. One side is always heavier; theres a gas tank, driver, and steering column/box on that side. Only thing I can think of is a tiny spacer or something in the spring pocket or under spring to lift it a little.

bobsnewdirection
05-20-2014, 06:14 PM
I'll get some pics. I ordered 3/4 in poly lift bushings. They are for a wrangler so I'll see if it'll work or was a waist of $40. The truck is still out enough that it'll rub the driver side fender bad. Are there any good brands of body mount bushings that I should look into? Never got to the truck today, got stuck at work. Also, a guy on Facebook is giving me his old stock springs so if all else fails I'm going to put them on to level it out. Just gonna take a lot of time to get it right

noahwins
05-20-2014, 07:26 PM
Energy Suspension and Prothane. Neither makes body mount bushings for the Mighty Max AFAIK but you could try the Chevy S10 body mount bushings, they might work. Or you could piece one together using their universal bushings in their catalog.

pennyman1
05-29-2014, 05:00 PM
Prothane makes a body mount kit - I have a set in the garage - will post the part number once I get out there and look at the box.

bobsnewdirection
06-12-2014, 03:42 PM
Truck is rolling again, still off a little bit. Passenger side is a little higher that driver. The new leaf springs seem way better and the rear looks pretty even. Can I grind a little bit off lower control arms? They rub the rim if I turn fully. I also keep seeing posts on Facebook about grinding a little out of the spring pocket so control arms don't bottom out, any reason not to do that either? Just looks like a moon shape cut on outside

bobsnewdirection
06-26-2014, 02:54 PM
Got it cleaned up after sitting so long. It's still crooked so that's annoying but I'm working on it

bobbyk
06-27-2014, 04:08 PM
Looks good though. So what are you gonna do to even it out? Start with some new front springs?

bobsnewdirection
06-27-2014, 07:45 PM
I've had 2 sets of new front springs in. Not sure why it's so uneven. The back is still an inch out and the front is more. I'm at the point of possibly trimming down one of the 3in blocks to level the rear and keep trimming the front springs to get it closer. The pass side front has 1 coil cut, driver has 3/4 cut on stock springs.

pennyman1
06-27-2014, 08:10 PM
Geronimo has the same lean to the drivers side - tried 3 sets of coils in front. I thought about shimming the rear with a piece of the steel stiffener between the block and the axle to level it in the rear, or use air shocks with separate lines to adjust them for each side.

bobsnewdirection
06-28-2014, 09:12 AM
Would running a 2in block on one side and 3in on other be a terrible idea? A mechanic said to shim the body up but that seems like a pain. It's that far out that 1in would level it. It's a 2in or do 3.5 block on pass and 2.5 on driver side

BradMph
06-28-2014, 04:55 PM
Ever think your weight in the vehicle is making it lean. Your all not making any less gravity on them Gluteus maximus :lmao:. Or maybe a full tank a fuel can also make a truck lean some...it's around 80lbs. A battery is on left side too.

One gallon of fuel Weight in pounds
Butane 4.86
Propane 4.23
Kerosene 6.75
Gasoline 6.00
Aviation gasoline 6.46-6.99

Running two size blocks is not safe.

Measure before you started the build? There are many factors on a truck heavy on one side. Worn suspension, fender out of alignment, not being on a completely flat surface, coil springs not exactly the same..though they are the same name and part number, rear leaf spring plates are damaged, tire pressure, etc,

The first step in identifying the cause of a leaning vehicle, is to measure the extent of the problem. Tire pressure and size should be carefully checked before proceeding. Make sure all tires are the same size and the air pressure is equal, within one PSI.

A measurement can be taken with a tape measure to learn the amount the vehicle is leaning. The center of the wheel opening to the ground is a good reference.

Height can be measured in center of wheel opening

The height from the four wheel openings to the ground is measured and recorded. This should be carried out on a flat and level surface. Height variations from front to rear are normal on many vehicles. Height differences front to rear are often a part of styling and unless the appearance is unusual, are usually not a problem.
10495

Side to side should not exceed half an inch or 13 MM

Differences in height, from side to side, should not exceed half an inch (13MM) and the less difference the better. If the vehicle leans more than half an inch in the front or rear, the problem is worth addressing.

The most common causes for a leaning vehicle include:
•a binding shock absorber or strut
•a bad spring or torsion bar
•bent suspension parts
•a twisted chassis

A binding shock absorber or strut will normally be felt as a very rough ride. Each corner of the vehicle should travel freely up and down when pushed with hand pressure. If one corner feels much harder than the other three, a binding shock absorber or strut might be suspected.

The shock absorber or strut can be removed for inspection if needed. Struts and shock absorbers are designed to resist motion, but not support weight. The shaft can be pushed in with hand pressure. If not, the shock or strut should be replaced, along with the one on the opposite side of the vehicle. Worn shocks and struts will not cause a vehicle to lean, unless they are also binding.

Torsion bar equipped vehicles can sometimes be leveled by an adjustment

Many vehicles are equipped with torsion bars and are adjustable. A screw type of mechanism can be adjusted to change the height of the vehicle. Often a proper adjustment of the torsion bars will level the vehicle. Having the wheel alignment set is important, whenever vehicle height is adjusted. Even very slight changes to vehicle height will drastically affect wheel alignment.

Coil springs are generally not adjustable and can also cause a vehicle to lean. Determining if the problem is caused by the front or rear spring can be difficult.

Supporting center of the rear will determine if lean is in the front or rear
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A good way to isolate which spring is at fault is to raise the rear wheels off the ground. The rear of the vehicle should be supported as near the center as possible. This forms a three-point mount, which is self leveling. If the vehicle is now level in the front, the problem is in the rear. The front continuing to lean, suggest the problem is more likely in the front.

Accurately testing springs can be very difficult. Swapping the springs from side to side is an option, when they are the same design. The vehicle leaning in the opposite direction after swapping suggests a bad spring.

Suspension parts and chassis measurement is a specialty, best reserved to a shop equipped to accomplish the task. If the vehicle continues to lean after the above checks, the problem is likely to be in one of these areas. A good frame and alignment shop can measure the vehicle and correct any problem in this area.

Once returned to level and properly aligned, the vehicle will be more stable, ride better and not wear tires. A leaning vehicle does not have to be tolerated.

bobsnewdirection
06-28-2014, 06:28 PM
Brad- I've replaced nearly every part on your list, thinking any of those could be the culprit. I'm on my 3rd set of springs, 2 sets of belltech drop springs and now a set of new stock springs. The shocks up front are new also. The rear has new shocks and new chassis tech leaf springs. It's dipped down on the driver side front and back. Doesn't matter if there is gas or not. I weigh about 175, if I sit in the passenger seat it hardly moves so I think the gas tank isn't the problem. I'll get a pic of the rear tonight so u can see the difference. I never checked the ride hight when it was all stock, it was alittle off but I figured that was due to it being 24years old. I'm really hoping its not the frame

BradMph
06-28-2014, 07:37 PM
Hey bob, I know the leveling issue is a problem for you and sorry to hear about it, but do you know if the frame is drooped by suspension or if the body on the frame is just lower on one side. Instead of placing offset size blocks in suspension, place blocks under the body mountings to the frame or add washers in there. This I think would be safer then changing the suspension travel or countering with a larger block.

bobsnewdirection
06-29-2014, 09:30 AM
Brad- I hadn't thought to measure to the frame and to the body. Thanks! At least I'll have a better idea where to focus my insanity. I really think its all coming from the front driver side. I went out last night and was lifting up on the front fender and just that little bit made the back almost perfect. I'm gonna have to keep playing around until I find it.


pennyman- do you know what is the reason your truck is sagging? And how far out is it?

pennyman1
06-29-2014, 07:04 PM
I started to play with swapping front springs like you did, but right now I am living with it until I take him apart this winter for a frame repaint - paint is faded out after 25 years. It could be that the springs in the rear were swapped from side to side when we redid the truck many years ago. usually, the springs for the drivers side are a higher spring rate than the passenger side to allow for the weight of a driver and fuel if the tank is on the same side.

bobsnewdirection
10-23-2014, 04:12 PM
Finally got around to ordering all the tie rod parts I need. I think I might have put 1000miles on my truck this whole year. Very sad. After its back together and inspected, no big projects for a while. Should prob get some actual driving in. I should have it all street legal again just in time for some snow.

bobsnewdirection
10-31-2014, 04:05 AM
All new tie rods and ends done, alignment is done, just need to get inspected. Gonna take it to work today, I miss driving it.

bobsnewdirection
11-02-2014, 04:29 AM
Took it out for a spin last night

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royster
11-02-2014, 06:38 AM
Dude's got a full tank o' gas!!

Fordubishi
11-02-2014, 10:42 AM
Damn with a full tank of gas he doubled the value of the truck. :devil2:

BradMph
11-02-2014, 11:13 AM
Luvit, no cell phones while driving, but hey it's OK to snap photographs at 0mph, lol. Nice color dash lights too, where ya get those at.

noahwins
11-02-2014, 01:08 PM
Damn with a full tank of gas he doubled the value of the truck. :devil2:

Temp gauge isn't pegged in the red, too. That's a good looking Mighty Max! ;]

bobsnewdirection
11-02-2014, 04:36 PM
Brad- the dash lights are from pep boys. They are #194. It takes 3 for the cluster.
Noah- I've been lucky and that is one prob I haven't had yet. Last night it wouldn't happen, when I was out it was around 45degs! Temp dropped like crazy in the last 3 days

bobsnewdirection
11-03-2014, 01:02 PM
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crvtec90
11-04-2014, 08:06 AM
Oh so pretty!

BradMph
11-04-2014, 04:23 PM
Took it out for a spin last night

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I checked on them dashlights and 194 is a basic series of lights for a dash. Is there an additional letter after the 194, Like 194R for red, 194B for blue, 195LL, what's the name brand of lights. I really like the hue on your dash lights. I have tried the dk.blue and can't see the dash hardly at all. I am using the 194R now and it looks like this, The Blue below is an example of what I tried.
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bobsnewdirection
11-04-2014, 04:48 PM
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Brad- these are the lights I got. They are pilot brand. They are leds, could be a little bit brighter but they are pretty good.

bobsnewdirection
11-04-2014, 04:50 PM
The ones I still have are going to replace the lights in the heater. I have no idea how to change them yet, kind of afraid to try because there is a big crack in the surround.

BradMph
11-05-2014, 09:38 PM
Ahhh that helps a lot Bob, thanks. I see also they are Blue. I'll do a look around to see where we have a Pep Boys or order online.

On my heater control lights they were a simple change. I only had one light for this and they have the same type of 194 push in adapter that the dash lights have, but it is a smaller version of it with the smaller bulb installed. The adapter also had a power wire connected instead of the copper connection rings glued on the dash display. I think they get the greenish color from the surround plate lens inside. The compartment with the lens is hot plastic spot welded and enclosed inside the cavity space. Looks to be a PIA to remove the green tint lens since the plastic welding will need to be separated without cracking it.
The bulbs are even dimmer then the led lights I think. I can see your dash lit up nicely it compare.

BradMph
11-05-2014, 10:04 PM
I did a search for your dash ring surround and located a part number MB424014. Try googling that and maybe you can find a replacement. There seems to be many available for a reasonable price.

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bobsnewdirection
11-06-2014, 06:06 AM
I've seen them on eBay, I'll buy one before I try to work on the old one, it's going to fall apart as soon as I touch it.

bobsnewdirection
11-06-2014, 06:09 AM
If you can't find those bulbs and want me to get them I can pick them up and sent them to you. Th Pep boys I got them from is only 15 mins away from me

BradMph
11-06-2014, 08:24 AM
Thanks Bob, I was looking at some at the pilot website, but they were a little different with 4 square led holders on the bulbs areas. Pretty sure these are the high priced ones though. I'm going to stop by Orielly's & Maybe AutoZone today in afternoon to see if they have them stocked. On the pilot site it said that they are affiliated as sellers. If they don't have them I'll get with you on your offer, appreciate it.

BradMph
11-06-2014, 08:30 PM
Well, I checked the local auto stores and no go. Looked for a pepboys and it seems they are all on the west coast of the state. What makes them so privileged to us east coasters. Well it's ok, they get all the rain.
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Pepboys Locations

Well, I think I will take you up on that offer sir if you don't mind. The dash takes 4 you said. If you can swing 4 red and 4 of the blue just like you have, that should work. Just as long as they are not the $20 each lights, lol.

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This is what I am running now, with 2 extra gauges below in amber because one is oil pressure and I definitely need to see that one. Those will stay same or I'll go to the blue on them and vacuum gauge and red on dash.
Anyway, let me know the damages and I'll paypal your account or however you want it, instantly.

Don't need to run down there immediately, if you can schedule it in your day is fine. :)
I'll PM and address to you ahead of time here.

thehive
11-06-2014, 09:23 PM
Those red gauges look sick, that's the route I plan on going with mine too but it's a second gen.

bobsnewdirection
11-07-2014, 06:46 AM
Anyone know how many 194s the second gen cluster with tach takes? I have one I've been planning on installing but haven't looked at it in a long time. Also, what do I need for oil pressure sending unit, can I install without that being done first?

noahwins
11-07-2014, 11:29 AM
I have a 2nd Gen tach cluster sitting on the workbench in the garage, I can take a look for you.

If you want to save a little dough, you can use Testor's model enamel at the hobby store and paint the clear bulbs. I have the color codes needed for brake light red and turn signal amber somewhere.

If you search for wiring up an electric fuel pump, people are using oil pressure sending switches as safety interlocks. The wiring instructions and parts needed are all there.

By the way did you ever figure out the cockeyed stance issue?

bobsnewdirection
11-07-2014, 01:11 PM
Noah- nope, the stance is still a mistery. I cheated and put a 2in drop block on the driver side for now until I get to trying new body mounts. It beat me for now.

bobsnewdirection
11-07-2014, 01:40 PM
I found my tach cluster, that is the same setup as non tach as far as replacement bulbs. 5 total-3 light the face and both signal indicators.

Merrill
11-07-2014, 02:11 PM
I used #194 5/SMD LED's in mine. Mine are white, but any of the other LED colors will be brighter than just about any other.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=8390&d=1392955507&thumb=1

bobsnewdirection
11-07-2014, 02:30 PM
So to do the tach cluster swap, do I need to do the oil sending unit or can I install the tach cluster now and worry about that later?

bobsnewdirection
11-23-2014, 06:39 PM
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Picked up a new snow blower today

BradMph
11-23-2014, 07:50 PM
Hmmm, I see no snow on ground yet, lol. Looks like its 80 degrees. Your truck looks sweet, nice color too!

bobsnewdirection
11-24-2014, 03:00 PM
My dad has been wanting a snowblower for years and finally decided to get one. On Friday it was a high of around 30deg, today it was a record breaker at 70deg. We have a chance of snow this wed so who the hell knows when we're actually getting it? The color looks pretty good from a distance, up close it looks like someone used a rake when they washed it. Some day I'd like to repaint, I do like the color so I'll prob get it the same

BradMph
11-24-2014, 07:43 PM
Hey Merrill You don't run a tach on your display I noticed. Or are you running a aftermarket tach? Also, what brand name lights did ya use? Zonetech or Jtech maybe?


I used #194 5/SMD LED's in mine. Mine are white, but any of the other LED colors will be brighter than just about any other.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=8390&d=1392955507&thumb=1

bobbyk
11-26-2014, 05:00 PM
Probably making good use of the snow blower now...

bobsnewdirection
11-26-2014, 05:23 PM
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Your not kidding. I was going to take this to thanksgiving dinner tomorrow in point pleasant nj, prob not a good idea. I'm sure my dad is smiling from ear to ear running an enormous snowblower for 2 inches of snow

BradMph
11-26-2014, 06:11 PM
Spokane has global warming right now, 40 degrees, but wet. Strange we have no snow on ground yet.

Merrill
11-29-2014, 03:46 PM
Hey Merrill You don't run a tach on your display I noticed. Or are you running a aftermarket tach? Also, what brand name lights did ya use? Zonetech or Jtech maybe?

I don't want a tach. My engine will be run off of an Evo ECU which is OBD2. This cluster (or a tached one) is pointless with that system so I am running a digital dash once I swap

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin/attachment.php?attachmentid=10338&d=1402425578

A tach cluster is a waste of money.

These LED's are not branded. I just buy them at wholesale from a vendor of mine....

bobsnewdirection
01-02-2015, 03:01 PM
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Went for a drive last night

bobsnewdirection
03-07-2015, 11:32 AM
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Had it all cleared and was planning on going for a ride, now this! Hoping maybe next week?

bobsnewdirection
03-07-2015, 11:33 AM
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bobsnewdirection
04-12-2015, 05:44 PM
Nice day today. Got to hit the local skatepark

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bobsnewdirection
06-01-2015, 02:34 PM
Dropped off wipers, mirror mounts, wiper cowl and new grill off at paint shop today!

bobsnewdirection
06-09-2015, 09:42 AM
Mirrors cleaned with back to black and bases repainted

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bobsnewdirection
06-09-2015, 09:44 AM
Wiper cowl and wiper arms repainted.

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bobsnewdirection
06-09-2015, 09:45 AM
Newer model grill painted

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bobsnewdirection
04-21-2016, 02:30 PM
Apparently it's been some time since I did anything to my truck. I got a egr block off plate that I plan on installing, just wondering about the connectors the hoses go back to. I've seen on the Facebook page people just leaving them alone, is that all that's involved?