(SOLVED) truck still wont run

[joey_crandall]

so far on my 1990 3.0 4x4 mighty max, ive replaced the coil, ign control module, ecu elay and the sensor inside the dizzy, and have had the ecu rebuilt twice the thing just sits and turns over but wont start its still not getting spark either. so what should i do next. look into getting the ecu checked out again, and if thats not thr problem look into replacing the engine wire harness. help is much needed and i am very thankful for any help or ideas you have.

[tekjones83]

Sounds like u have a break in a wire or stretched or did you check ur fusible links and all ur fuses?

[camoit]

Do you have a manual that tells you what plugs and what pins in the plug should have power?

[l.k.]

if you are getting gas and no spark i would say fuse, bad wire....maybe a ground missing. There are a fuseable links as stated above... just get a tester and check everything. load tester or whatever tool it is....good luck man....

[4doorciv]

The mpi relay also supplies power to the coil and injectors. Have you checked for voltages at the relay?

[l.k.]

The mpi relay also supplies power to the coil and injectors. Have you checked for voltages at the relay?

troubleshooting can be a real pain in the a$$...i would just go through and check everything for power coming and going....do it with the key off, the key on accessory, then the key in starting postiion, while cranking, etc...unless you know more of where your problem is

good luck to you...

[joey_crandall]

its not getting spark or fuel. my brother checked the plugs at the ecu and said everything that should have power does. the fuel pump wasnt turning on at one point. after i changed the ecu relay it started working normally. ive checked the fusible links and the originals were dryed out and cracking. i got some decent looking ones from a wrecked low mileage montero at the junkyard. and i also found the main ground wire was unhooked from the block. i put it back. also the parts i replaced in the first post came off a running parts car.

[4doorciv]

You should tell him to test the wires at the relay. The fuel pump can prime with the starter signal but still not give power to the coil and injectors. That should be actuated by the key on position I believe. Ground is controled by the ecu. Check for power.

[joey_crandall]

ok. ill try that this weekend. i can do that with a test light. if its a good relay that would mean the somethings up ith the wiring from the relay to the coil and injectors right? cause my fuel pumps primes, but it didnt before. and its normal for the fuel pump to only work when its turning over right. it doesnt prime when i turn it to ignition. also reading around on some troubleshooting info it said there was a TDC sensor. would this make it not spark or deliver fuel?

[4doorciv]

The fuel pump should prime while engine cranking and should stay on while the car is running. It doesn't prime when you put the key to the on position like other manufactures.

The tdc sensor, I'm sure is part of the distributor. I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure. I have been wrong before.

[joey_crandall]

ok so the crank position sensor (mitsu calls it a photo optic sensing unit) is the tdc sensor. i appreciate you taking time to give me ideas and helping out the best you can.

[l.k.]

atleast you are narrowing it down slowly. I hope we can help you get it running man. Good luck bro.

[4doorciv]

I don't mind helping out. I'm tossing ideas out, can be helping others out with the same problem. I'm back to working on my truck so a lot of it is coming back to me. So your helping me at the same time.

[joey_crandall]

i hope it runs soon to ive had the thingsince the middle of september. thisi weekend if the weathers nice im gonna get my brother to help me try to figure more out.

[l.k.]

sweet man ....keep us updated ....

[joey_crandall]

so i took a test light to it earlier. with the light hooked to -side of coil and + side of battery it comes on with the key off. same way with +side of coil to- side of battery. but it doesnt come on either way with the key at any other position. acc, on or when when its turning over. any ideas?

[4doorciv]

So what your saying is that there is power to both sides of the coil in the on position and accessory? Or no power at all?

[joey_crandall]

no theres power to both sides when the key is off.

[4doorciv]

Power to both sides when the key is off. What about when the key is on? Is there power to one side? Or no power at all?

[joey_crandall]

nope the coil doesnt have power with the key at acc, on, or start. only with the key off. someone on sqc said it sounds like ign swith and to jump the starter solenoid if it starts i got my answer. and i tried a jumper wire to the coil from the battery like someone had suggested at sqc, and all my dash ligths came on with the key off.

[4doorciv]

Okay. With that info, I agree that it sounds like your ignition or wires to the ignition. All this info your finding out is helping narrow it down. Keep it going man. Your almost there.

[joey_crandall]

someone over at sqc said it seems like the ignition switch is out. any way i can hot wire it?

[l.k.]

have you took the plastics off the column and tested all of them...there is a little mechanism in there that transfers power in and out. It has wires that come in and split off for the diff key settings on the ignition tumbler. Its for the accessories, ignition, and fuel related for signal....It can go bad, burn out in a certain area etc ..it is a main power spot in the ignition system...

good luck man....almost got it..

[joey_crandall]

i used the oen from my starion today. the original switch was melted at the harness connector. ade the male connector on the chassis harness was also melted. i have some pics.

[joey_crandall]

sorry for the crappy cell pics. but its the best i got.
in this pic you can see part of the male connector from the chassis harness in the upper left corner.
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/joeysstuff006.jpg
this is the chassis harness from the bottom
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/joeysstuff004.jpg
and this is the chassis harness from the front
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/joeysstuff005.jpg

[4doorciv]

Wow. It looks like you found your problem. The reason why it burned, and possibility of it burning again after repair is the question. I'm supprised it melted because the fusable link should have burned first.

[joey_crandall]

yeah im kinda at a loss now as of what to do. or what to test.

[joey_crandall]

also yesterday i checked to see if the dizzy was in correctly and the crank pulley wasnt tightened down all the way. i could move it with a socket without a ratchet. idont know if that could cause anything, figured i should mention it.

[4doorciv]

The crank pulley as in the 4 bolts that hold it in or the big bolt with the 1/2" ratchet hole in it? Well, you chould check to see if there is power going to it, what where there is also power. With the plugs melted like that, you should track further upstream and downstream of what else is burnt. I can already see that you can either replace the ignition or attempt at fixing it by replacing the terminals. If it's melted elsewhere also, there would be no change after the repair.

[joey_crandall]

ok i see what your saying. and yes it was the 22mm crank bolt that was loose. so with the ign stuff, think i should cut the looming off and look for burnt wires.

[4doorciv]

Well, the crank pulley should be installed with the 4 10mm or 12mm bolts. Not really the 22mm bolt. But yes, look for burnt wires. The burnt wires would turn into a short to power or a short to ground. And it seems that you have a short to power with the key in the off position. After the key is in the on position no power so open circuit.

[l.k.]

atleast you found out something man, keep it up. I would def. track wires searching for burnt ones/ melted etc..

[joey_crandall]

so earlier i was untaoing the harness under the dash and i heard things clicking under the hood. also i found a couple hacked together wires. im not sure if its factory, but i think the factory would have soldered the wires and shrink wrapped it. instead of a wire crimp and electrical tape. ill get some pics later.

[4doorciv]

Clicking? As in relays clicking? What wires do you think they are connected to? Ignition? Ac? Fuse box?

[4doorciv]

Did the car have an aftermarket alarm on it before? I seen some shops work with alarm installs and it's usually messy and unprofessional. Most of the time screws go missing and things get damaged. Small stuff like scratches and broken tabs.

[joey_crandall]

i have no idea what they went to it could have been the ecu relay, im not 100% sure. and it didnt have an alarm when i got it. in some places there multiple wires that stripped and tapped to a single wire in the back of the cabs fuse box.
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/Copyofjoeysstuff010.jpg
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/joeysstuff007.jpg
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/Copyofjoeysstuff010.jpg
http://i1230.photobucket.com/albums/ee495/joey_crandall/joeysstuff009.jpg

[joey_crandall]

the Y made from the two black wires are hooked directly to the fuse box by one wire.

[camoit]

If it was a clean job then it should be stock. You can always make a trip to u strip it and take plugs or a wiring harness. If taking a harness then try to do a clean strip job.
Bit it looks and sounds like you are on the right path. Now that you have herd clicking from under the hood. If you can make it do that on a regular bases then you can find out what is clicking. Keep it up your getting close.

[joey_crandall]

it could have been the ecu relay in the cab clicking. i was kinda disoriented under the dash. but i think its getting there to. i sure hope so anyway.

[4doorciv]

To me the splices look oem. They did that on my eclipse harness the same way and electric taped it. Try to see if you can isolate the clicking to a specific relay. Did you try searching the oposite end of the burnt wire harness as well? It could be closer to the ignition then further then that into the cab.

Make sure to tape up the exposed wires. ;)

[joey_crandall]

im getting the wring diagram of the net, i lost the other one i had.

[l.k.]

way to keep on trucking man...i feel you will have this thing whooped soon enough. Goodluck bro..

[4doorciv]

Happy hunting man. I don't think this would be a dealer item anymore because out trucks are obsolete. You are going to have to find a donor truck from the local scrap yard. Unless there is a cross reference to another vehicle that isnt obsolete.

[joey_crandall]

thanks man, i couldnt get the diagram on my home computer. so itll have to wait till tomorrow. but im gonna test each enf othe wires that come from the igns witch.

[joey_crandall]

its starting to seem like i have a bad ground. i put the ecu back in yesterday. and i left the key on, but as the ecu case tapped up against the ecu mount the speakers made funny sounds. like when your cell phone rings when your listening to the radio.

[4doorciv]

Seems like it. Try to disconnect the ignition key and perform the same test. It could be a sdhort to ground, or short to power still.

[joey_crandall]

so im not getting anywhere, its probably gonna go to the shop my brother works at so he can look at it. the have better tools and testing equipment.

[4doorciv]

I'm sorry to hear that. Good luck with the truck. Hope it gets fixed.

[joey_crandall]

yeah me to. at least itll get done for super cheap. my brother can work on it when hes not busy at work, that happens quite often.

[l.k.]

man what luck....atleast it seems to be a simple problem --just hard to find. GL with getting it fixed man....

[joey_crandall]

haha yeah its gonna be a facepalm moment. but itll get fixed sooner than later.

[joey_crandall]

the coil inteminently gets power and ground at different key positions. so im guessing still a bad ign switch or my ecu keeps getting fried.

[4doorciv]

I'm sure the ignition switch is part of the problem. That can cause other problems as well. Did you already replace the switch and harness?or replace the switch and repair the harness already?

[dray]

this may be long shot over left field, but check your positive battery terminal, everything connected to it

[joey_crandall]

the ign swith was replaced with the one from my quest, there the same just the quest ones longer. but i havent repaired the harness, there wernt any melted wires.

[4doorciv]

And the same problem after you switched the ignition? Then there could be bad wires somewhere. Did You guys test the wires at the mpi relay? There could a short to ground on one of the circuits. Doesn't take much for body parts to cut through insulation. If I have time I'll check my notes for the wires to the mpi relay to see which wires should be power and which should be ground.

[lush90]

Still waiting to hear what happened here!

[joey_crandall]

still havent figured anything out. i dont know anyone who has experience eith these trucks or anyone who has time.

[wrngwae]

sorry to hear that Joey......i wish i could help but i know shit about the v6's........sorry man....

[DroppedMitsu]

Yea same here, I would maybe try sticking around some 3000gt forums or montero forums, something more common with the v6, and asking for help on there.

[joey_crandall]

i havent found anything helful on anyof those either. probably just try and sell it.

[joey_crandall]

600 bux. who wants this headache?

[joey_crandall]

theres a few people interested in it. looks like ill be selling it :(

[lush90]

Man, I have two of these and wouldn't trade either for another truck. I know how frustrating things can get sometimes, especially electrical problems, but once you figure it out, you'll be happy you stayed with it. We have a mobile auto electric mechanic in the area who I had to call when I first got mine to track down a short. It took him less than a half an hour and I'd probably still be looking. Any of those in your area? A lot of repair shops call this guy in when they get stumped with electrical issues. Sometimes it's a lot simpler than it appears. Good luck!

[joey_crandall]

haha my dad talked me into keeping it. he bought it. did he say where that short was? but ill look for one of those moblie guys..

[camoit]

Hay man. I can come up one day and take a look at it for you. But you will need to find a book on it so I can run through the wiring. I might be able to get you pointed in the right direction.

[joey_crandall]

work has slowed down at my brothers shop so were finally getting towed up there. but thanks. but if it doesnt happen soon ill let you know. i have the fsm and haynes manual on my computer at home.

[joey_crandall]

so i put power to one end of the ignition control module signal input wire and tested the end at the ecu plug with a test light and the light didnt light up. what shpould i do now.

[camoit]

Man you need to cut all of the harness open and look for the melted wire. Something is melted or broken. I would start where you found the melted stuff the first time and go through it from one end to another. It's in there some where. Don't give up on it now. Just keep the mind set of I always win, and you will...

[joey_crandall]

haha yeah, the wire was getting signal though i looked at the wrong end of the wire. but i think looking into the harness a good idea, im just scared of wiring. also the fuekl pump doesnt prime when i turn the key on

[joey_crandall]

could a timing belt being wrong cause a no spark issue as well.

[pennyman1]

more likely the cam sensor being bad, unless it has a crank sensor - never had a v6 so I don't have much to offer here.

[joey_crandall]

its just got a crank sensor in the dizzy and its been repalced with known good used parts multiple times. and i read they wont go flat dead just cause a bad miss and run real shitty.

[joey_crandall]

could a bad ecu ground cause the ecu to go bad. my other brother was up for the weekend and he tested afew things and said it seems like the ecu isnt gorund well.

[DroppedMitsu]

I don't know about making it bad but definitely affect it not working correctly.

[joey_crandall]

I don't know about making it bad but definitely affect it not working correctly.

good to know

i figured this out today, the crank position sensor and ignition control module wiring ties in together and then branches off and connect at pin 1 and pin 6 at the ecu. when i test for resistance between the icm and pin 1 the resistance is 1.7 ohms. but when tested from the icm to pin 6 its at .3 ohms. the when i test from the cps to pin 1 its at .3 then from that to pin 6 its at 1.3. so is there a resistor somewhere in the wiring in between there (the haynes manual didnt show one neither did the fsm from mitsubishilinks.com) or is that a good place to look for a short.

[lush90]

This might be too obvious but there is a pigtail of 2 or 3 wires connected to an eyelet that has to be on one of the bolts that secures the ecm to the cab. I think it is black and it acts as the ground for the ecm. I know it won't start if this isn't attached to the ecm bolt.

[joey_crandall]

hahaha that was one of my issues. along with a disconnected engine ground and the wires that went to the cps were all backwards. i took the ecu back to the shop that rebuilt it before, he said its in the exacts state it was wheni brought it in the first time. but i should have the ecu back thursday.

and the thing about the resistance with them other wires. idk i used a different meter about a week later and the issue was gone.

[lush90]

It's amazing how many times the problem is simpler than you normally imagine. You are going to love this truck once you get it going. Keep us posted!

[joey_crandall]

yeah im stoked. but sadly im done with it if this doesnt fix it this time.

[camoit]

Oh come on man... If you never get it running you will never be able to escape from the old man working you to death. Don't give up. Just make your own harness if you can't find one. I know where to find plugs and sealant.

[joey_crandall]

haha im just hoping it runs this time and i wont have to do anything else. ive had the truck for a year already so it sitting is getting annoying.

[lush90]

Still waiting to hear the happy ending to this thread!

[joey_crandall]

haha well thursday and friday got busy real quick and we have something to look at tomorrow which is in the same city where the guy that rebuilt the ecu is so we will hopefully (again) see tomorrow if it runs.

[bobsnewdirection]

im paying attention to this one, sounds like you are having the same problems as me. hope u figure it out.

[lush90]

Still sitting on the edge of my seat waiting to hear about this machine running!

[joey_crandall]

yeah me too. its been giving the guy problems though. so im waiting to hearb ack from him. ill be sure to kep you guys posted.

[lush90]

So you are waiting for the ecm ?

[joey_crandall]

yeah, hes looking for another core to rip some parts out of. if i dont here from him this weekend imma go junkyard scavenging and hopefully i can get a monty ecu, he said that he can get parts from those to work.

[lush90]

I am running a MM ecm in my '91 which actually has a Diamante 3.0 in it, so I would be surprised if any ecm from an early (90-95 or so) Mitsu 3.0 wouldn't work, at least enough to see if it starts. My guess is the newer ecm's for the same engine will work on the earlier engines, but not early ecm's on new engines.

[joey_crandall]

yeah they guy said he could use parts from almost any first gen sohc 12 valve thats a distributor motor. do you have a ram 50? also i have a 1990 cali emissions ecu so i dont know if that makes a difference.

[lush90]

I have a '90 MM 4x4with the original 3.0 and ecm, both rebuilt. Basically the newer style heads, 95-96, I think, which have a different channels for higher flow, not as prone to cracking. I picked up a '91 MM 4x4 w/ a blown engine, had been run out of oil. I was driving my '90 (175,000 mi.) which I drive daily for work, when at a red light with no warning, it stalled. Cranked but wouldn't start. I pushed it through the intersection and off to the side, checked all the connections I could, everything seemed fine so I called a Mitsu mechanic friend. He told me it was probably ecm. Just before calling for a tow, after sitting for about a half an hour, I tried to start it again and it did. The engine light stayed on but I thought I might as well try to limp it home. It ran really rough, never got over about 25 mph but I got into my drive way. I pulled the ecm out of the '91 and put it in the '90 and it ran perfectly again. I sent the '90 ecm to Foreign Auto Computer in Zephyrhills, FL and had them repair it. Eventually, I found a Mitsu 3.0 6G72 Japanese import engine that some guy had bought but never installed. The Mitsu mechanic identified it as a Diamonte engine, which has higher compression and different oil pan, etc.. He was able to swap some parts from my blown '91 to this engine and install it. It started right up but the engine light stayed on. I swapped the ecm's back so that the originals were in each truck and, voila, no engine light and they both run perfectly.

[joey_crandall]

nice, sounds like a lot of work. i talked to the guy yesterday after my last posting. he said it should be ready today. he also said with my CPS wires being backwards, thats what most likley was causing its problems, and the bad - battery ground. so imma get it today or tomorrow and do a couple other things to button it back up. Just need to rewrap the harness in a few places where we were testing for resistance. probably drop the fuel tank and dump the 1 year old gas out (its a lil over a year old) and hopefully have a running truck by monday.

Oh also if anyone in cali needs there ecm rebuil look up wombles auto parts or car-computers.com in stockton Ca. hes a nice honest guy thats will sit and talk with you and explain things.

[lush90]

These trucks have a fuel tank drain on the bottom rear of the tank, no need to drop the tank!

[joey_crandall]

sweet you just saved my ass from some unessicary work. watch my trucks gonna need a fuel pump.

[camoit]

So is it running?

[joey_crandall]

no still waiting for his call, i hope i can get itrunning this weekend.

[camoit]

Well if you do get it running after this long I think everybody will want some proof, Kind of like digging up the body to check if he is still in the box or not. :))

[joey_crandall]

hahah oh there wuill be proof.

[MightyMaxNick]

Hey saw your post, i have a 1991 Mighty Max 4x4 v6. My ECU went out at 189,000 if you can I would just try to find a cheep ECU and try that

[joey_crandall]

ive tried before, but it would have been more than a rebuild. or it probably would have needed rebuilt

[joey_crandall]

so i got my ecu yesterday, the guy wareenteed it for me still, even though it was my problem why the ecu kept shitting out. but the truck has a battery draw problem. my dash voltmeter flickers whenever i use something in the trcuk. like lights or the stereo. so is this normal with the truck off because the battery isnt being charged. so i havent put the ecu in. i will when i figure this last stupid thing out.

[lush90]

Come on, stick that ecu in and let us know if it starts! I'm dying here!

[Fordubishi]

Clean all body, frame and engine grounds.make sure the ecu one is cleaned too. just unbolt them and use a little sand paper to make sure they are bare metal and sand around the bolt/screw hold as well.

[joey_crandall]

ok, ill do that. the guys at hot rod coffee shop said the power flickering was normal with no regulation of voltage from the altenator, but cleaning grounds wont hurt.

[MightyMaxNick]

Have you got the truck running yet? I also live in california. where abouts are you?

[Stunner]

My dad and I actually added another ground wire to mine, from the engine to the firewall. We also cleaned all the other body, frame, and engine grounds, like Fordubishi suggested. I honestly don't remember why we did it right now, but making sure everything is properly grounded is a must.

I'm assuming you mean the voltmeter idiot light is what's flickering. I haven't had that happen on mine, so I don't know what to tell you on that.

You could take a voltmeter gauge (the same kind you mount inside your truck), and wire it to where you could plug it into the cigarette lighter (using the wire and plug-in from, say, an electric air pump). That way, you could hold it in your hand, or sit it somewhere close, so you can see the draw on the battery. All while sitting comfortably inside the truck. Since it's plugged into the cigarette lighter, and not hooked directly to the battery, the voltage won't be perfectly precise, maybe off by a volt or two, but for quick checking, it'll serve its purpose. Or, just run the wire from the gauge out to the battery, if you have enough wire, or you could hook up a voltmeter to the battery, and check for a drain that way. Either way, you'll be able to see what's going on. :thumbup:

[Stunner]

Crap, I meant electric air/tire pump.

[joey_crandall]

Have you got the truck running yet? I also live in california. where abouts are you?


No i havent its been to cold/wet to do anything. but im in garden valley its up past sacramento. i still have to drill out a bolt that mounts the ecu down and put it in, im a lil scared to do it though i dont want the ecu to short out again.

[MightyMaxNick]

Im up by Eureka, In Fortuna. Just make shure your ground is in and everything is connected and you will be fine!

[joey_crandall]

we put the ecu in and it was trying to start and i was getting tach signal. but the cps wires busted out of the plug. were going to put another one on tomorrow. but just to be sure on things the firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6 right? so does that mean i put them on according to the numbers on the dizzy cap and to the cylinder #.

[MightyMaxNick]

I had troubles with this when i was putting the cap on after i did the valve job, the firing order is, 1-2-3-4-5-6. The wires are kinda weird to put on, im pretty shure you just put them on according to the numbers on the dizzy cap and to the cylinder #. if that doesent work, post a picture of where u got your wires at.

[DroppedMitsu]

Yes Haynes says 123456, but remember cylinder order on engine:
5 6
3 4
1 2
distributor order:
....2..6
..1......4
....3..5

[camoit]

Droppedmitsu... What direction is the distributor rotate? Clock wise or counter clock wise? Also do you know if it's in right. If it's off a tooth or 2 then it will try, but back fire. Recheck every thing before you try again. Check all timing, crank and cam marks and look at the rotor position. Sounds like you are in position to win the battle...... Once you get it going I'll buy you lunch.





Yes Haynes says 123456, but remember cylinder order on engine:
5 6
3 4
1 2
distributor order:
....2..6
..1......4
....3..5

Now if what you are showing is correct then the firing order is not 123456. That just does not sound right. It can be one of two ways. But that depends on the rotor rotation. Ether,
CW. 1-2-6-4-5-3 OR CCW. 1-3-5-4-6-2

[DroppedMitsu]

Yea you're right the Hayne's book contradicts itself. It says rotation is counterclockwise. Another interesting note, Chiltons manual says firing order is the same,123456, but shows a different pattern on distributor.

[lush90]

Camoit's reply shows the correct sequence. I double checked my 3.0 and it is like his post, with the 5 and 6 wires closest to the firewall.

[joey_crandall]

thanks for getting that all cleard up for me guys, im pretty sure we had it right.

[joey_crandall]

with #1 spark Plug wire to # 1 plug on the dizzy?

[camoit]

with #1 spark Plug wire to # 1 plug on the dizzy?

Yes. Then the #2 cyl. to the # 2 post on the dist. and so on.. Do them 1 at a time. You can tell what direction the rotor will spin by looking at the vacuum advance. It will pull the opposite direction of rotation. This moves the advance plate so the spark hits sooner in relation to piston position. AKA advance. If you move the plate in the same direction as the rotor spins then it retards the spark.
If droppedmits is correct on the rotation then the firing order will be CCW. 1-3-5-4-6-2 You will be able to double check this by looking at the vacuum advance pull direction. Don't rush it after all this time. You don't want to fry anything. You can always crank it with the coil wire off the dist to confirm spark to that point. Better safe then sorry.
Then all you need to do is confirm the rotor position to the cap. Put the engine on #1 TDC and pull the dist. cap. Look at where the rotor is and see if it is aligned with the #1 post on the cap or real close. If not pull the dist. and rotate the rotor. Re install and check for alignment. It sounds like you are close.

[Dave the dude]

Looking at the top of the cap starting at #1, go CCW to 3,5,4,6,2 spark plugs with your wires. If you look INSIDE the cap at the electrodes, they do not match up with the wires. As the rotor turns it will fire 1,2,3,4,5,6. Look under the cap and it will all be clear to you.

[camoit]

Looking at the top of the cap starting at #1, go CCW to 3,5,4,6,2 spark plugs with your wires. If you look INSIDE the cap at the electrodes, they do not match up with the wires. As the rotor turns it will fire 1,2,3,4,5,6. Look under the cap and it will all be clear to you.

Dave so what you are saying is it has some kind of funky cap????? So they don't just stick straight through?

[Fordubishi]

its called across fire cap and it is not uncommon in japanese and europen cars.

[camoit]

Yep, I remember these things. So why in Gods name would they build the cap like that??? So it costs more? Or so they can just use the same Dist. on several engines. There must be a reason the over achieving 10 year old engineers came up with the idea.

[joey_crandall]

cool deal, imma go home and try this, also getting the new cps plug soldered on today. ill let you guys know later today or tomorrow.

[joey_crandall]

well we got everything all together and is still didnt want. today my brother figured out the dizzy was still of a tooth and the spark plugs were rusty/corroded he said it looked like the shop that changed teh head didnt replace the spark plugs.

[joey_crandall]

it starts runs and drives now, ill try to get proof uploaded on monday, camoit where we goin for lunch.

[camoit]

Right on bro. There is a place called Cricket and Company off auburn Blvd. They have the best food. They are open for breakfast and lunch. Otherwise we can go to La Piñata in Del Paso Heights. They have killer burritos. I think they still have a kitchen. I'm sure we can come up with somthing.

So what was the problems??????
Details we want details....... We all need closure on this 3 page 127 comment repair thread...... I think this makes a new record on the longest repair.

[joey_crandall]

the crank position sensor wires being backwards kept shorting the ecu out.
after that the timing was 180 out and from there it was getting it to the right tooth and the correct firing order and count less minuets it cranking it over. then i put some cheap oil in it to flush the condensation soaked oil. and drive it to burn the condensation out of the exhaust.

it still has a slight miss but its been narrowed down to my shitty looking plug wires.

[joey_crandall]

and when its legal to drive ill hit you up for lunch.

[camoit]

Well you know where to find me. Just let me know when. Then we will give you the directions to Area 51. But I can not confirm or deny the existence of the place.
Besides for as many things that them Russian guys run into you will probably come down to the yard soon enough.

[joey_crandall]

haha yeah, but we havent been sending trucks to there for repair lately.

[camoit]

I would not let them work on my stuff. There a bunch of goobers. I have seen them drag a trailer 1 mile down the road before they figured out 1 of the brakes were locked up. Then they drug it back. Black marks the hole way including the blown tires and the "U" Turn. They have crashed into the front fence, the middle gates, the side fence, each other, and a parked trailer.

[joey_crandall]

i know there idiots, but sometimes we get that one guy that is there "friend" and takes it there.

[camoit]

So this hole time it was the crank sensor wiring??? Was the plug replaced by some one or did it look like it was stock? We need the readers digest version of what you did and went through. Some one is going to see this thread and look for the fix you found.

[joey_crandall]

what we thinks is it looks like when it got taken to the shop after the ecu burned up the first time there were ruling other things out first, os it looks like they pulled to plug off the cps to test that and the wires pulled out of it, and they accidently put the plug on upside down and paid no attention to it after reassembly.

[wrngwae]

Good deal Joey!!!!!!!! i know you have been ripping your hair out on this one............im assuming its not for sale anymore lol..

[MightyMaxNick]

Congrads!!

[joey_crandall]

haha yeah i pulled some hair with this one, and no its not for sale, its a cool truck its a quick lil bastard

[LiL Bastard]

You called ?? :)

Anyways congrats on fixing it.

[joey_crandall]

You called ?? :)

Anyways congrats on fixing it.

i though of that about 10 minuets after i posted it it.