Iim sitting on the side of the road mad as hell. It went from fine to instantly dead. If its the comp again, that isn't to bad, I have a 2 year warranty on that. Never ends.
Iim sitting on the side of the road mad as hell. It went from fine to instantly dead. If its the comp again, that isn't to bad, I have a 2 year warranty on that. Never ends.
Dang man sorry to hear that, I know I would be one pissed off,frustrated sob. If it is the computer you need to trace everything and run a volt meter through it all and find out what is causing a problem to short or whatever it is doing to the ecu.
called a tow truck this morning and before i got to it, the guy was already there! a first. towed it back to my buddys shop. after it was unhooked, i said f-it, put the key in and it fired on the first crank! its making me insane. hes gonna look at me like i lost my mind. its either heat related or computer is my guess. like i said a week ago, it was acting strange at start up. every morning it would fire on the first crank, by afternoon, it took a few, and in the evening it would take a bunch. and it only did this for a week. it was first turn since i got it back from replacing everything
ignition switch?
I've had a couple cars do this exact thing and after replacing an $8 ignition switch it was fine... seemed to only do it when the car was sitting out in the heat
I've had a similar issue on my '91. After a lot of trial and error, it turns out the wire loom running up in front of the drivers door is giving me the problem. There are 3 white plastic connector sets found there and I found if I move one power is restored. That male female connector looks blacker (burnt) inside but I'm not sure how to replace it yet. It's happened a few times while driving, usually I'll hit a pothole or something and instantly no power. Sometimes it kicks right back on but a couple of times I had to coast off to the side and move that loom while holding the key on. Don't know how common this is but you might want to check it out.
Lush90- ill check that out. I don't know if I hit anything to short it out or lose connection, but that's the kind of stuff I need to check out. B-dub- would the ignition switch let it still crank but not fire up? I had the ignition switch checked when I had the distributor rebuilt, it seemed fine 2 months ago.
Could your ignition coil be going bad, On my 1987 I took the ballast resistor off, thinking it was what was causing my truck to run like crap, but after driving 20-30 minutes, the coil would overheat, and the truck would die, if I waited a few minutes it would finally fire back up, I replaced it with an older GM coil and never had the issue again (although if I would have bought a new Mitsu coil it probably would have fixed it also.). Im not sure how the coil works on the EFI trucks, but it could be something to check out.
it would on mine. It would literally act like it just didn't have either fuel or spark.. was driving me crazy I thought my fuel pump had went out and I replaced it (from a parts car I had) and then finally after doing that and my FPR I found out my ignition switch was shorting out on me. ... funny thing is I had a new one in the glove box the whole time but didn't know the P/o had left it in there. but that was just the case in my car (well actually I've had 2 do this same thing but they have been on my vw's) so the trucks design could be different.
I hate electrical issues ....
Any good news?
Hay lush. Cut the wires, solder them together and use heat shrink to seal it. Never have it happen again.
Now to fix the ugliness of the board again. But it does have some cool new things, once we get it back together again. Give us a couple of weeks and blindeyed and my self will have her back up to a standard you have come to expect. Sorry for the bright editors. But they auto save and you can make them bigger.
Oh ya. It will be down from time to time, Just a heads up.
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so the only good news i have is im pretty sure its the compuer again. it has a 2 year warrenty so thats the only thing that is making me happy. otherwise, i cant find any burnt or loose connectors. it wont run at all now so im going with computer. ill know for sure on fri, my friend is gonna look at it. if its the comp, im sending both back and seeing if there is something they can tell me to look for. im thinking by the time i have it running again my lowering kit may show up. guess i should check on that one
not sure if this is good news, seems like the computer is ok. im gonna start going thru all the connectors to see if something is shorting out. i miss my truck. also, in news that doesnt mean anything to me at the moment, summit racing called me today, my lowering kit for the truck is now backordered til august. i have no truck to put it on so its not the biggest deal.
Back order... Well better then D-99 that means no longer available.
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any updates yet?
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Nope. Been sitting at the shop. We can't figure it out.
so it just shut off. cam / crank sensors are good? injectors are getting power, fuel and squirting? Be sure to use the corect injector test light. Not just any test light. (see snap on tools for corect type)
It's going to be somthing simple and dumb when you find it.
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Everything seems to be good. Thinking lush was right and there is a burned up connector somewhere. Anyone in the Philly area willing to take a look is welcome to help. Please? My busy has looked but no luck so far.
ask joey_Crandall where he had fried connectors. He found a couple of them. Or it's going to be a wire that broke at the connector, At a hard bend.
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I had a thought, is there one of those little automatic circuit breakers inline of your ignition or fuel control wiring? Those things can get goofy sometimes.
I had a Beretta that would die at odd times when it was hot, but that was the coil pack or ignition module, can't remember which.
Can you make us a list of what is getting power?
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It's alive again! Hoping to stay this way for longer then last time. It was 2 bad connectors and the fuel relay. I completely gave in and had a shop figure it out. It took them a while to find all the issues too. It was worth every cent, it would be sitting a lot longer otherwise.
How many hours did they spend on it? Electrical is always bucks at a shop. There is no set time for that. Just by the hour. But now you have a warranty on it.
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the total way $530. the relay was $100 of that. he had it for a month, of that time i dont know how long he spent actually looking at it. i told him i was in no rush and to take time to figure all the problems. he soldered all the bad connections, the connectors arnt available any more. i figure solder is better anyway.
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