Tell me the trick. I did the jet valve e kit and fired it up for less than a minute...quart of oil out the back of the valve cover. I put the gasket sealer at the rear cam bump and across the front one. Going to try again tomorrow. Got any hints?
Tell me the trick. I did the jet valve e kit and fired it up for less than a minute...quart of oil out the back of the valve cover. I put the gasket sealer at the rear cam bump and across the front one. Going to try again tomorrow. Got any hints?
Big asshole in front of engine- me. BIG ASS hole in back of engine- missing cam plug. Duh! It popped out and hung up on tranny during disassembly and I never saw it. Got it, now.
So I take it you stopped the leekOriginally Posted by biller 51
and she runs just fine again.
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Leak has stopped. Runs much better. Still has problem fouling number 4 plug and I fear a new head is the only cure. That plug tends to weld itself in and I believe it gets hot to the point just short of overheating back there although the gauge reads normal. I have no way of checking to see if the coolant flow is okay around the back end of the head without pulling the head. If I pull it, I want to replace it with a new casting no jet valve head but can't spend the bux just now.
OK it's that head.. "The self welding head". So all you did was the elimination kit to the head. How did the old jet valves look? It's possible that might fix the lean burn for that cylinder. I'm convinced it was a vacuum leek causing the hole problem on the spark plug. But time will tell all. Be sure to give updates on this problem. I keep running over the problem in the shower. The glass makes a good white board to finger on.
How about a good picture of that plug for us. You can also look in the wiki on how to read a spark plug for help and pictures.
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3 jet valves were crudded/clogged up and may have been pumping but not blowing air , the 4th was clean but rusty. I did not try to clean them or see if they would operate, just put in the eliminator kit.
The head gasket is blown and "tick, tick, ticks" most of the time (but not all the time) and leaks small amounts of af. I did a compression test on the radiator and it would not leak down, the cyls were not getting af in them, it must be leaking directly into the exhaust when running but only in small amounts.
Although I have been using anti seize on the plugs, I'm afraid to pull the # 4 plug. I've had it out 5 times in the last year and 3 times it has been "welded" in. The last time I got some aluminum on the threads. It won't take much more. Would a bad jet valve cause the vacuum problem and overheating of that one cylinder?
Oh thats a bad thing when thread comes out with it. The jet valve is a metered vacuum leek with no fuel. They have been known to destroy heads and valve train. On the side of the carb is a large hose that feeds the system. Direct air, no fuel.
I think you need to look around craiglist and get yourself a parts truck for further repairs and long life of the truck you love. Under 500 is a good price, running.
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I just got rid of most of the scrapyard out back. My wife'd kill me if I started bringing more clunkers home. I better get serious about that new head. Do you think the block has been damaged? It only has 130k on it but not sure what the high temps, etc may have done. Do I need to block off the vac feed to the jet valves now that they're gone?
These jet valve heads crack between the valves and can cause leaks in extreme conditions. Right now on ebay there is a posting for a non jet valve head for a forklift that is selling for 218 on sale - it is bare, but you could swap over the rest of your parts if they are still good. If the valvesare gone, the air port is already blocked - btw the air passage actually is feed off of the primary barrel of the carb until about 1/2 throt tle, and is fuel and air. A weber adaptor kit blockes the port off - if you really want to block the port - take the carb off and tap and thread an allen set screw with sealant into the hole flush with the surface of the manifold - thats how they have you block the ports when you install a weber kit, or at least thats how my instructions read. Mine has been that way for 29 years without problems.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I thought it was fresh air. We had the one guy that was blowing the hose from the side of the carb because the valve was stuck open. Perhaps it was a later model.
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Nah, it is fueled or it would lean the mixure out too much - the jet valve created a swirl to the cylinder contents to create a more complete burn at lower rpms. It was the first production swirl port head ever produced - now it is done with 4 valve heads with porting.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Well, there's a picture of the removed jet valves in all their glory. Not sure how I got the picture in there and sure can't figure out how to put words in there with it so this'll have to do. I think the valves would clean up and be serviceable. Any point in doing that?
None I can see - the springs are so fragile and easy to ruin that it would be worse than before because the jet valve will stick open.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Thanks to everyone for all the help.
Scrapping the valves. Does the removal of the jet valves (assuming they were working properly) cause a lean mixture since it is no longer pumping anything?
No it eliminates the swirl effect the valve produced. They also get blocked off(the passage to the valves) when you install the weber adaptor kit.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
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