Hey guys, im from reno, have a '91 mighty max, and it blew up. Meaning over heated and cylinder 3 and 4 have cracks between the valves. I 've heard the 4 wheel drive trucks are kinda rare, and i love it. I am looking for new cylinder heads, and i can not find any on the internet. I have no desire to go to pick-n-pull to pull heads off a dead truck. Can i get some links to a 3.0L 6g72 SOHC, cylinder heads. Thanks for the help. Ill post some pics later...
Have you tried
Clearwater Cylinder Head Inc.
5100 Ulmerton Rd, Clearwater, FL
(800) 572-1963 () · cylinder-heads.com
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Now would be the time to consider a stealth DOHC swap :p but I'm more into the diesel and 4 cylinders but I THINK the SOHC FWD 3.0L stealth, 3000gt, older eclipses, monteros and such were the same heads but I could be mistaken. Also on the 6g72 #3 and #4 are on different banks unless you're a ford guy :p
I have the same engine in my truck, they are known for overheating.I've replaced the head gasket 3 times in the truck because it overheated. As far as a new head goes your best bet would be to see if you can find one for an early montero as they are the same head. The 3000 gt has a dohc head so I doubt it will work and the eclipse has a 24 valve head so i think it is different. If you look into an eclipse head and It does fit the block let me know Because with some modification to the exhaust you could have a significant hp gain lol.
Make sure that the head and block are not warped by using a straight edge. probably why it's happened so much.
Yeah it was straight the problem was numerous different things.
cracked head2.jpg so little crack in my head... i dont know how long its been like this. But i think it was from the over heating... it took me over a month to take off the head, because i blew up my knee and i couldnt move, so thats why it has some surface rust... anyways, i know this sounds silly but, could i just clean them back up, lapp the valves and slap them back on and everything would be okay? Finding these heads is tough
They have both new and remanufactured heads on rockauto for this truck that are complete if you are willing to spend the money. Not sure if you can repair the old one or not.
the base model 3000gt and stealth had the sohc motor so did the diamante,
A good machine shop could ATTEMPT to weld the crack. I tried to get mine repaired but the shop said they couldnt get the weld to hold properly. It takes great skill to do it. I actually drove mine for quite a while with the crack, but I dont recommend it.
So I went to rock auto, and bought a left head... It was the last one they had so i had to get it. Hopfully at the end of the month i can get the right head. Excited because it comes with a cam and everything so, another head, some gaskets, new battery and oil change and i should be golden
Now friends. need some help finding a good quality well priced gasket set for this. head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, exhaust and intake gaskets. Thanks.
Its been a few months, and i just now got the crank bolt out. Now im having the issue of getting the pulley off the crank shaft. Every google search shows me how to take out the bolt. Like no man, I NEED THE PULLEY OFF! Now, I do not have a Mitsu dealer in town, and no auto parts store has the MD998754 or MB990767-01. The Chilton book makes it seem like this is the key to my answer. But after research its just to remove the bolt. Can i use a pulley remover tool or what is the best way to get this darn thing off?
In a nut shell, take off pulley to do timing belt... Thanks for your help friends.
Just use a three jaw or similar puller, if you can fit it there.
Might have to remove the radiator if you haven't, but this is all you need (or similar):
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...-set-8832.html
Cheap, and cheap is a very good price, IMHO.
Welcome to the forum, there is alot of info. on this site
Why did it overheat in the first place? Time for an electric fan maybe and oversized radiator? After all your hard work I hate to see it happen again. Damn mitsubishis, if they would not self destruct during an overheat they would be bullet proof.
Try some anti-seeze between shaft and pulley and some type of wedge between pulley and shaft face and tap(not bang) rotating the wedge around back of pulley might free it. (fred flintstone way of pulley removal) Just need to pop it off the long term point it sat for so many years and it should come right off. Don't lose the shaft key that is there also.
Gasket sets on ebay or RockAuto
Last edited by BradMph; 05-19-2013 at 02:48 PM.
When i had the unit fully serviced from a small shop in town, they tore the heater core return line. The intake mani. covers so you cant see it, but over the 3 years i was driving the truck, it just got worse and worse. Finally one day, i was driving home from work, it just lost all its cooling fluid and blew both head gaskets. Now the truck is back together, but i am missing my MAF.... Huge black tube and box just disappear from my garage. So now im trying to get the truck started. I think i have issues with the distributor timing. The Chilton book says to time both hash marks, insert and it'll be timed at cylinder No. 1. but the rotor is pointing at No. 4. HELP? Back to the MAF, my bmw runs poorly with out it, will it cause the truck to not run at all? The two things holding me up are the timing and the maf, any answers would be nice, thanks friends.Originally Posted by BradMph
12,750 4WD vs 103,265 2WD Mighty Max's
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